Apparently there is a moron gas leak in my workshop.

I bought a set of rail & stile bits labeled 1-5/8.

Before I cut up even one more forest of 'practice' wood, I've got a
couple questions. Well, maybe four. Yep. Definitely five questions.

1) ISTR that the lumber for a cabinet door is typically 3/4 inch thick. Is
this correct? When I mill my lumber perzackly .750 (+ .001 -.000) there
seems to be too much of it. I get a small lip on either side of the formed
cut. Judging by the milling marks, the total 'excess' is about .080"

2) When I mill it perzackly .625" (+.0005 - .0000), there doesn't seem to
be enough (depending on which cutter I index off of, either the ogee isn't
fully formed or a step shown on the profile drawing that came with the
bits is missing altogether.)

3) Which should be the top cutter ... that is, what is the correct
orientation of the cutters for each of these bits? I'm not used to
scratching this big of a hole in my head so I might as well back up a step
and make certain that the bits are correctly assembled from the factory.

4) Which cutter edge should I be aligning the stock to?

I've got well over 2 hours of fussing around invested in this. I figured
that trying out a few cuts and measuring the results should show me what
is what. If it is ever going to do that, it needs to hurry. I concede that
I need some help with this (supposedly) simple process.

5) Can anyone pass me a link to some sort of instruction for this? I'm
getting ready to DAGS but figured I'd ask as long as I'm posting this
anyways.

Sign me,

Perplexed in Detroit

Not sure I totally understand your explainations of the problems but
here is how I typically do the setup. First I setup the cutter that
will be cutting the exposed ogee. I adjust it until I have just enough
of the first step in the molding to hold up to some sanding. The second
consideratuion is to be sure there is enough meat left behind the slot
for the panel.

Then I adjust the second bit so it joins up as flat as possible with
the first cut at the cope.


Bill wrote:
Apparently there is a moron gas leak in my workshop.

I bought a set of rail & stile bits labeled 1-5/8.

Before I cut up even one more forest of 'practice' wood, I've got a
couple questions. Well, maybe four. Yep. Definitely five questions.

1) ISTR that the lumber for a cabinet door is typically 3/4 inch thick. Is
this correct? When I mill my lumber perzackly .750 (+ .001 -.000) there
seems to be too much of it. I get a small lip on either side of the formed
cut. Judging by the milling marks, the total 'excess' is about .080"

2) When I mill it perzackly .625" (+.0005 - .0000), there doesn't seem to
be enough (depending on which cutter I index off of, either the ogee isn't
fully formed or a step shown on the profile drawing that came with the
bits is missing altogether.)

3) Which should be the top cutter ... that is, what is the correct
orientation of the cutters for each of these bits? I'm not used to
scratching this big of a hole in my head so I might as well back up a step
and make certain that the bits are correctly assembled from the factory.

4) Which cutter edge should I be aligning the stock to?

I've got well over 2 hours of fussing around invested in this. I figured
that trying out a few cuts and measuring the results should show me what
is what. If it is ever going to do that, it needs to hurry. I concede that
I need some help with this (supposedly) simple process.

5) Can anyone pass me a link to some sort of instruction for this? I'm
getting ready to DAGS but figured I'd ask as long as I'm posting this
anyways.

Sign me,

Perplexed in Detroit

On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 14:08:21 -0800, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Not sure I totally understand your explainations of the problems but
here is how I typically do the setup. First I setup the cutter that
will be cutting the exposed ogee. I adjust it until I have just enough
of the first step in the molding to hold up to some sanding. The second
consideratuion is to be sure there is enough meat left behind the slot
for the panel.

Then I adjust the second bit so it joins up as flat as possible with
the first cut at the cope.


Well, I found a clue. My bits (from the factory!)are not set up like the
bits at http://www.newwoodworker.com/railstilebitset.html

Fix that first and then maybe the rest of the program will start to make
sense.

I also found a pdf from Woodline that looks like the rest of what I might
need to know.

BTW, the bits were made in China. Not only did I save money (initially)
buying them, but I also got a free education for good measure. NOW we know
why those Chinese guys are so darned smart ... they have to figure this
stuff out too!

Bill