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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?

Id like to stain some red oak to look like a rich dark mahogany. I can get
the color with many coats of modified tung oil wipe off stain but it takes
forever when having to allow to cure in between coats.

Is there a way to get a nice rich translucent red mahogany color with using
a stain build up? Something that brings out the grain of th wood as a stain
would?

Guitar bodies have beautiful dark colors like this usually over maple which
is very lite color. How do they do it?



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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?

trs80 wrote:

Guitar bodies have beautiful dark colors like this usually over maple which
is very lite color. How do they do it?



They use a darker stain. G On maple guitars, it's usually a dye
applied with a spray gun.

The good news is that you're using oak! Oak stains wonderfully, there
is no need to try and carefully build color. Find a color you like and
confidently try it on scrap.
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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?

trs80 wrote:


Guitar bodies have beautiful dark colors like this usually over maple which
is very lite color. How do they do it?




An air brush and tinted lacquer toners.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?

Many coats of dyes,fillers,toners, and several coats
of finish.

Trying to make oak look like mahogany sounds good
but there really is no practical way to
do this.

You can get close with dyes and stains but
you are in for a long drawn out finishing schedule.

You will need a spray gun....and a lot of patience.

I would start with mahogany.

trs80 wrote:

Id like to stain some red oak to look like a rich dark mahogany. I can get
the color with many coats of modified tung oil wipe off stain but it takes
forever when having to allow to cure in between coats.

Is there a way to get a nice rich translucent red mahogany color with using
a stain build up? Something that brings out the grain of th wood as a stain
would?

Guitar bodies have beautiful dark colors like this usually over maple which
is very lite color. How do they do it?



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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?


"trs80" wrote in message
...
Id like to stain some red oak to look like a rich dark mahogany. I can
get the color with many coats of modified tung oil wipe off stain but it
takes forever when having to allow to cure in between coats.

Is there a way to get a nice rich translucent red mahogany color with
using a stain build up? Something that brings out the grain of th wood as
a stain would?

Guitar bodies have beautiful dark colors like this usually over maple
which is very lite color. How do they do it?


Use a grain filler, dark gel-stains and tinted lacquer.
Forget the tungoil.

Dave



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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?


trs80 wrote:
Id like to stain some red oak to look like a rich dark mahogany. I can get
the color with many coats of modified tung oil wipe off stain but it takes
forever when having to allow to cure in between coats.


Sounds to me like you need a penetrating stain, like Watco. Even
something like MinWax, which has solids in it, may get dark enough. A
tung oil stain is probably just not penetrating.

I just added an oak ply end panel to a dark colored vanity (wanted to
cover up the cheap hardboard panel). The oak took a custom mixture of
several colors -- I actually would describe it as having almost a
mahogany tint. I was mostly afraid it would be too dark.

Lee

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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?


Just putting in my two cents here.

I wouldn't use any kind of tinted lacquers as they can be really tricky
to get just right. And while you may be getting the right color, you
may not wind up with the amount of sealer you want. So while you apply
your tinted product for color, you will be adding both more color and
more sealer with every coat. That can be hard to control.

I agree with the above, and that is to dye the wood and then put all
the lacquer you want on it.

I spray the Behlen's Solar Lux dyes all the time, cut by about 50 - 75%
(with 99.99% alcohol) and apply it with the smallest nozzle on my gun
possible. The best way to apply it is to mist on several coats,
spraying in differnt patterns and directions to make sure you get it on
evenly.

When I am looking for an exact color, I usually spray the dye on a test
piece at the same time I am spraying the project so that I can test the
color with sealer on it. The sealer will change the color and
appearance quited a bit, so a good visual sample of your stain with
sealer is a great idea. (Trust me on that one!)

Robert

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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?

trs80 wrote:
Id like to stain some red oak to look like a rich dark mahogany. I
can get the color with many coats of modified tung oil wipe off
stain but it takes forever when having to allow to cure in between
coats.

Is there a way to get a nice rich translucent red mahogany color
with using a stain build up? Something that brings out the grain
of th wood as a stain would?


As I told you, a toner...non-opaque color in a clear finish.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico



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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?

trs80 . . .

I agree with 'nailshooter' - use a DYE on the raw wood and SAMPLE, SAMPLE,
SAMPLE your finish schedule. Then WAIT at least a week, before judging the
result. Some reactions take a bit of time - trust me, I've been 'bitten' !!

Where I disagree is that I prefer WATER-Based dyes. Penetrate deeper &
easier to 'handle'. There are many different 'Mahoganies' available.
Hopefully you will find one with YOUR 'mental picture' of what *Mahogany*
should look like. You may wind up getting a 'basic' Mahogany then several
other colors to add 'a bit of this and a bit of that' to get what YOU want.
A long and maybe costly project . . . worth it if you will be doing a lot
with *that* color.

A 'quick & dirty' solution - which has worked for me - is Minwax
'PolyShades' in 'Bombay Mahogany'. {Bear in mind . . . MY idea of 'Mahogany'
is the look of the transom on a classic wooden yacht !!} The first time I
used the stuff I flowed it on the way the instructions said, and the way I
apply varnish. Came out so dark it was almost black, like the old Duncan
Phiffe dining room set my parents gave us. Since then I learned how to
handle the stuff - at least for ME. a} like a 'real' stain - brush/scrub it
on, let it sit, wipe off & let dry, or b}use a cheap foam brush and apply a
coat, them 'brush it out' to the preferred 'color', and let dry at least
24-hours. NOTE - Minwax does NOT recommend their 'Clear' Poly as a finish
for most of their dark colors {probably due to 'pick-up'}.However I HAVE
used it. Just make that first coat quick & thin.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"trs80" wrote in message
...
Id like to stain some red oak to look like a rich dark mahogany.


SNIP

Is there a way to get a nice rich translucent red mahogany color with

using
a stain build up? Something that brings out the grain of th wood as a

stain
would?
SNIP



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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?

On Tue, 3 Oct 2006 18:03:23 GMT, "trs80" wrote:

Id like to stain some red oak to look like a rich dark mahogany. I can get
the color with many coats of modified tung oil wipe off stain but it takes
forever when having to allow to cure in between coats.

Is there a way to get a nice rich translucent red mahogany color with using
a stain build up? Something that brings out the grain of th wood as a stain
would?

Guitar bodies have beautiful dark colors like this usually over maple which
is very lite color. How do they do it?


I just tried a sample of General Finishes 'Mahogany' oil stain on
maple and it got pretty darn dark red with one coat. Oak is still
going to look like dark red stained oak no matter what you do to it
though.


-Leuf


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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?


Leuf wrote:

I just tried a sample of General Finishes 'Mahogany' oil stain on
maple and it got pretty darn dark red with one coat. Oak is still
going to look like dark red stained oak no matter what you do to it
though.


-Leuf


Boy, you said it. Of all the stuff to color correctly oak can be the
worst due to its tubules. But on the other hand, with some instruction
it isn't all that big of a deal.

I rarely use pigment stains anymore, and almost always use dyes and gel
stains (I know, almost all of the cheaper gels are thickened pigment
stains) to get what I want. When refinishing, I have dyed pink
mahogany to look like Walnut, and Walnut to look like a classic cherry
(think Federalist/Duncan Phyfe colors here).

In my experience, for absolute color and shading, I have had the
absolute best success with dyes that have been properly thinned.
Honestly, as long as I have been doing this type of work
professionally, it surprises me almost every time I use dyes how well
they work. As I said farther up, just my opinion.

Robert

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Default Light wood to Dark Mahagany stain....how?

ok.. thanks all. I like the idea of dyes. I play guitar and I understand
thats how they get the beautiful 3d grain by using dark then color of
choice analine water or alcohol dyes. Thats my next approach.
thanks again

wrote in message
oups.com...

Leuf wrote:

I just tried a sample of General Finishes 'Mahogany' oil stain on
maple and it got pretty darn dark red with one coat. Oak is still
going to look like dark red stained oak no matter what you do to it
though.


-Leuf


Boy, you said it. Of all the stuff to color correctly oak can be the
worst due to its tubules. But on the other hand, with some instruction
it isn't all that big of a deal.

I rarely use pigment stains anymore, and almost always use dyes and gel
stains (I know, almost all of the cheaper gels are thickened pigment
stains) to get what I want. When refinishing, I have dyed pink
mahogany to look like Walnut, and Walnut to look like a classic cherry
(think Federalist/Duncan Phyfe colors here).

In my experience, for absolute color and shading, I have had the
absolute best success with dyes that have been properly thinned.
Honestly, as long as I have been doing this type of work
professionally, it surprises me almost every time I use dyes how well
they work. As I said farther up, just my opinion.

Robert



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