Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our
sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and replacing it. Thanks, Jim |
#2
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
jtpr wrote:
Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and replacing it. Wood flour and epoxy -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
"jtpr" wrote in message
oups.com... Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and replacing it. Thanks, Jim Bondo, or other equivalent auto body filler/repair material, is relatively inexpensive and works very well in repairing exterior wood damage without replacing the wood, is waterproof, and can be painted over just like wood. The more hardener you mix into the Bondo the faster it dries, so working time can vary greatly depending on hom much you use. |
#5
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
jtpr wrote: Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and replacing it. Thanks, Jim Sorry, forgot to post the link to the pictures. Moron. Anyway, this might help. Thanks for the replies so far, but the key here might be that they aren't painted... Here is what it looks like: http://jtpryan.smugmug.com/gallery/1900582/1/95872232 -Jim |
#6
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
jtpr wrote:
jtpr wrote: Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and replacing it. Thanks, Jim Sorry, forgot to post the link to the pictures. Moron. Anyway, this might help. Thanks for the replies so far, but the key here might be that they aren't painted... Here is what it looks like: http://jtpryan.smugmug.com/gallery/1900582/1/95872232 -Jim Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on it. In either case, tape the glass just in case. On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime, and paint. Jess.S |
#7
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
Jesse R Strawbridge wrote:
jtpr wrote: jtpr wrote: Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and replacing it. Thanks, Jim Sorry, forgot to post the link to the pictures. Moron. Anyway, this might help. Thanks for the replies so far, but the key here might be that they aren't painted... Here is what it looks like: http://jtpryan.smugmug.com/gallery/1900582/1/95872232 -Jim Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on it. In either case, tape the glass just in case. On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime, and paint. Jess.S PS I didn't respond properly to your question about filler on the rot. It doesn't look to me like you enough wood left there to use the filler approach. Jess.S |
#8
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
"Jesse R Strawbridge" wrote in message t... Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on it. In either case, tape the glass just in case. This was the first approach that occured to me also. I think this is what I'd do. On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime, and paint. That's a lot of work. I'd just put up a new piece of brick molding. -- -Mike- |
#9
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
jtpr wrote:
Sorry, forgot to post the link to the pictures. Moron. Anyway, this might help. Thanks for the replies so far, but the key here might be that they aren't painted... Yes, that's the key. You will never be able to fill that and have it look decent without painting over. Your only options are to replace...either the entire piece(s) or by routing/sawing as appropriate and fitting dutchmen or an overlay piece or pieces. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#10
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
jtpr wrote:
Our dog (now gone) did quite a bit of damage to the bottom of our sliders from chewing. I am trying to figure out how to fix this without replacing the doors, or even if that is possible. Also, I have a couple of rot areas I need to fix, and wondered whether or not one of those plastic fixes would be better then cutting out the wood and replacing it. Thanks, Jim I'd get a termite inspection first. |
#11
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
Mike Marlow wrote:
"Jesse R Strawbridge" wrote in message t... Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on it. In either case, tape the glass just in case. This was the first approach that occured to me also. I think this is what I'd do. On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime, and paint. That's a lot of work. I'd just put up a new piece of brick molding. If the rotted piece isn't treated (stabilized) or replaced, it will just get worse (unfortunately I know from experience). It is not that much work. You could do the cutting with a Sawzall or a jigsaw but it occurs to me that a rotary saw (which I don't own) would work very well. A little chisel work would be needed to finish the lap joint. Jess.S |
#12
Posted to alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Suggestions needed on fixing wood damage from dog and rot.
Jesse R Strawbridge wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: "Jesse R Strawbridge" wrote in message t... Assuming you don't want to paint the door, on the door itself I'd use a router with a jig to remove 1/8" to 1/4" of the damage on the wide part of the rails and styles, fill any deeper damage, and glue on a matching veneer (thickness sized to the amount removed). I can't tell what the detail on the edge next to the glass is but removing the damage with a sharp chisel and adding a strip to match the existing detail should work. Remove the glass from the door, if possible, before working on it. In either case, tape the glass just in case. This was the first approach that occured to me also. I think this is what I'd do. On the rotted portion outside, carefully cut back to solid wood, install a piece of pressure treated using a half lap joint and nails, prime, and paint. That's a lot of work. I'd just put up a new piece of brick molding. If the rotted piece isn't treated (stabilized) or replaced, it will just get worse (unfortunately I know from experience). It is not that much work. You could do the cutting with a Sawzall or a jigsaw but it occurs to me that a rotary saw (which I don't own) would work very well. A little chisel work would be needed to finish the lap joint. Jess.S Thanks for all the response's, now I have some ideas. I really like the veneer approach to the sliders, I need to check my local lumber yard for some. -Jim |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|