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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 20:37:15 GMT, "Toller" wrote:
I made my first biscuited miter joint last week; with two 15" wide panels and three biscuits. It did not come out well; no matter how much I fussed with it I couldn't eliminate the gap. Possibly no one would have noticed it, but I sure didn't like it. (it couldn't have been too bad, as it held my full weight jumping on it...) So, I am redoing it, being more careful that my cuts are perfect, and only using two biscuits. Well, when I dry-fit it, there still a gap I can't get rid of; the gap is uniform all across, so my cuts are good. I marked up a biscuit with a central line, and the central line falls exactly on the edge of the slot. I have thinking that maybe the clamping on 90degree joints is adequate to make it work, but the clamping on 45degree joints won't push them together, and I have to make my slots a hair deeper. Does this make any sense, or is my problem likely to be elsewhere? I am not thrilled about the recutting my slots, as they are likely to end up a bit wider than I would like; maybe I can get away with just deepening one side? Someone above mentioned using sandpaper and that can work. I do a lot of stair tread nosing and run into the problem you describe from time-to-time. When I see the gap in dry fit I just run the fine side of a rasp over each edge of the biscuit. If I were building a bridge I might worry about anything less than full contact of all bicuit surfaces but for most applications these small deviations will not become an issue. I found that this is generally caused by operator error. If I slow down and use the tools more precisely it does not occur. But I am talking about gaps 1/16 and . J |
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