I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular fence
and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim
in. Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular
fence and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.

You can move the fence or spin the board 90 degrees raise the blade,
position the blade and lower the blade into the dado for fit, raise the
blade push it back and make your cut.

On Wed, 02 Aug 2006 19:30:33 GMT, "Toller" wrote:

I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular fence
and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.


skill saw and a strait edge. or finnish the cut with a router and a
chamforing bit and a strait edge. how much does the motor stick up?
if not a lot you could make a sled smaller than the 16" required and
let the piece overhang the sled.

skeez

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim
in. Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular
fence and repeating the cut.

I've done just what you suggest with the fence... it works. Just be careful
to make sure that the blade still remains behind the face of the fence and
you should be OK.

John

Toller wrote:
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch?

Use a handsaw? Maybe a chisel?

Chris

Toller wrote:
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular fence
and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.

You may be able to raise the wood up off the saw table (put a piece of
scrap under the work piece), this may give you a little more usable
blade width and may get the extra 1/2".

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim
in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular
fence
and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.



Why not use a circular saw with a guide?

--

-Mike-

On Wed, 02 Aug 2006 19:30:33 GMT, "Toller" wrote:

I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular fence
and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.

Two 8" boards and glue em up after cutting the miters?


-Leuf

On Wed, 2 Aug 2006 18:07:40 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:


"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim
in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular
fence
and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.



Why not use a circular saw with a guide?


I second that. I had a similar situation, bought a very good blade for
my PC circular saw, carefully clamped on a guide and the cut was as
good as I could have made on my RAS.

Frank

In article , Toller wrote:
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular fence
and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.



If you cut the stock at 90d first on the table saw, then set the TS to
45, the little triangle of wood ripped off may clear the motor.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Toller wrote:
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular fence
and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.

I'd cut it by hand. Clamp a straight piece of wood on the cut line and
use a sharp saw. Clean up with a jack or jointer plane.

R

Toller wrote:
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter
joint. My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half
inch?

Set the RAS up to rip and do it that way.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

wrote:
Toller wrote:
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
snip

I took Ian Kirby's advice and made a simple sled jig to hold work at 45
deg to table. His main argument is that contractors' t/s-s have such
flimsy links between angle-adjusting trunnions that you get the arbor
located to do 90 deg. and make jigs to cut at all other angles.

Even on a "good" table saw I think jigging is the way to go. You spend
a little time on the jig and get it right and then everything goes
quickly and safely. And then you have the jig forever - and can crank
out your miters in a snap.

JP

Amazing variety of great ideas; thanks all.

I got my panels glued up today, so tomorrow I will cut the miters; some how.

"Fred" wrote in message
oups.com...

Toller wrote:
I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard
way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.

I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim
in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular
fence
and repeating the cut.

Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.

You may be able to raise the wood up off the saw table (put a piece of
scrap under the work piece), this may give you a little more usable
blade width and may get the extra 1/2".

bing bing bing, we have a winner.
Yes, I moved the fence back 3" and put a half inch of plywood on the table,
it gave me the extra room I needed. Thanks much.