I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

Some companies make vertical raised panel bits. Instead of a bit
that's 1.5 inches radius, it's 1.5 inches tall.

I doubt you can do it with a set of small cutters, unless you have one
made.
But for a trivial example of what you're after, see the
http://patwarner.com/images/edgeguide1.jpg pix link.

Do understand, (and I agree with your safety concerns) that big cutters
in small routers are a common occurrence. Fence Safety measures are
possible. Tho not clear in this picture, you can isolate yourself from
the cutter. (Pix link = http://patwarner.com/new_pix.html )



http://www.patwarner.com (Routers)
_______________________________________
wrote:
I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

wrote:
I doubt you can do it with a set of small cutters, unless you have one
made.

So where would I have a bit made? I'd prefer a vertical bit for
safety - where would I go to have this made?

On 3 Aug 2006 11:08:32 -0700, wrote:

I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

I would do the 12 degree portion on the table saw, and then try to
find a small roundover bit that doesn't have a bearing at the bottom.

This sounds promising. I'll try to visualize it. The first part makes
sense, cut a 12 degree face. The second part - how does that work? The
bead is about 3/16" or so, I would suppose it could be a little bigger
or smaller without ruining the effect.

I thought I would end up trying to use a beading bit on an angle.
More trouble.


Leuf wrote:
On 3 Aug 2006 11:08:32 -0700, wrote:

I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

I would do the 12 degree portion on the table saw, and then try to
find a small roundover bit that doesn't have a bearing at the bottom.

wrote:
I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

you've gotten a couple of good replies.

you could get to this panel look, or at least pretty close, with a
table saw for the bevel followed by a non-bearing roundover bit on the
router table. http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1318

it's more work, but does let you avoid swinging a giant bit in the
router.


for that matter, you could drop back 500 years and punt. google "panel
raising plane"...

By the time you remove the dia. of the guide you only have apx 1 1/4 cut.
which is very easy to do on the table saw @ 12 degrees as mentioned by
someone else. you could use a scratch block for the round over.
wrote in message
oups.com...
I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

wrote in message
oups.com...
I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?


I have a P-C 7539 router and use a 3-wing Eagle America bit at 10,000 rpm.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product....Bits+%2D+Large

One of the key things that I did not see on the Grizzly site was the rated
speed of the bit. The Eagle America site says 12,000 rpm max. That's
probably also appropriate for the Grizzly. One problem is that power is
proportional to the square of the speed, so if it's truly a 3-1/4 HP router
at 22,000 rpm, it's about a 3/4 HP router at 10,000 rpm. The Eagle site
says, you'll have to make many light passes. This is the reason. It'll bog
down.

It takes me about 6-8 passes in red oak. I do full depth (bit raised as
high as I want the final cut to be) and move the fence for each successive
cut. This keeps the panel from riding up on the bit.

FWIW, I'm not happy with this router, but, it's what I have.

The vertical panel raiser bits will allow a greater speed and therefore
allow a heavier cut.

All in all, a shaper is the best way, but I don't own one either.

Hope this provides some insight.
Roger

No 120 volt router on the market will produce even 2.5 horsepower. Throw
that into the mix.

"Roger Orsulak" wrote in message
news:zDvAg.8342$ok5.3617@dukeread01...
One of the key things that I did not see on the Grizzly site was the rated
speed of the bit. The Eagle America site says 12,000 rpm max. That's
probably also appropriate for the Grizzly. One problem is that power is
proportional to the square of the speed, so if it's truly a 3-1/4 HP
router
at 22,000 rpm, it's about a 3/4 HP router at 10,000 rpm. The Eagle site
says, you'll have to make many light passes. This is the reason. It'll
bog
down.

Understood. That's why I put the word "truly" in there. The point that I
was trying to get across is that at lower speeds in variable speed routers,
the power of the router is only a fraction of the full power of the route
whatever it is.


"CW" wrote in message
nk.net...
No 120 volt router on the market will produce even 2.5 horsepower. Throw
that into the mix.

"Roger Orsulak" wrote in message
news:zDvAg.8342$ok5.3617@dukeread01...
One of the key things that I did not see on the Grizzly site was the
rated
speed of the bit. The Eagle America site says 12,000 rpm max. That's
probably also appropriate for the Grizzly. One problem is that power is
proportional to the square of the speed, so if it's truly a 3-1/4 HP
router
at 22,000 rpm, it's about a 3/4 HP router at 10,000 rpm. The Eagle site
says, you'll have to make many light passes. This is the reason. It'll
bog
down.

"Roger Orsulak" said:

One problem is that power is
proportional to the square of the speed, so if it's truly a 3-1/4 HP router
at 22,000 rpm, it's about a 3/4 HP router at 10,000 rpm.

This statement is strictly true only if the motor develops the same
torque at 22k rpm as it does at 10k.

"Tom Veatch" . wrote in message
...
"Roger Orsulak" said:

One problem is that power is
proportional to the square of the speed, so if it's truly a 3-1/4 HP
router
at 22,000 rpm, it's about a 3/4 HP router at 10,000 rpm.

This statement is strictly true only if the motor develops the same
torque at 22k rpm as it does at 10k.

Help us understand a little more here. I'll admit to being a dilettante
when it comes to electric motors. What would your expectation be regarding
performance at lower speeds vs. higher speeds in a typical variable speed
router. Am I off base?
thanks,
Roger

"Roger Orsulak" said:

What would your expectation be regarding
performance at lower speeds vs. higher speeds in a typical variable speed
router.


I would expect that, assuming it can do so within the physical and
electrical limitations of the motor design and electrical supply, the
variable speed motor in a router will draw enough current to generate
enough torque to keep the bit spinning at the selected speed. The
power rating of the router, or any electric motor, is, therefore, a
somewhat meaningless term except as a indicator of the maximum values
of those physical and electrical limits. The motor will, within those
limits, develop whatever instantaneous power is needed for the load
(torque) at the selected speed (RPM)

Tom Veatch . wrote:

"Roger Orsulak" said:

What would your expectation be regarding
performance at lower speeds vs. higher speeds in a typical variable speed
router.


I would expect that, assuming it can do so within the physical and
electrical limitations of the motor design and electrical supply, the
variable speed motor in a router will draw enough current to generate
enough torque to keep the bit spinning at the selected speed. The
power rating of the router, or any electric motor, is, therefore, a
somewhat meaningless term except as a indicator of the maximum values
of those physical and electrical limits. The motor will, within those
limits, develop whatever instantaneous power is needed for the load
(torque) at the selected speed (RPM)

That may be true for a synchronous motor with a variable speed drive but
routers generally have universal motors and control the RPM by reducing the
available power rather than by adjusting the frequency of the signal.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Shaper.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

wrote in message
oups.com...
I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

What are you scared of?
Do it is 10 tiny passes if you like.

(in
) said:

| I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
| looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic,
| on the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
| Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.
|
| The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410
| - as you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in
| that position and it's an interesting job.
|
| How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

You can do it with smaller bits and multiple passes. At the link below
(about halfway doen the page) there are photos of a 2" cove being cut
with a 1" round nose bit.

Your router and edge profile are different but the principle is
exactly the same.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw

In article .com,
wrote:
I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?


It would take some futzing around, but you could cut this profile
except for the bead on a tablesaw using a high fence for the bevel
cuts. Then you could clamp a straight edge to the panels to guide a
router with a small bit of the proper profile. I've seen veining bits
and beading bits that would work.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

wrote:

I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.

The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.

How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?

One way would be to rough it out with a dado blade and then Neander it to
finish dimension with a shoulder plane. Then all that's left is the bead
and the undercut on the back.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)