Hi,

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.

This is a much cheaper route ie hand planer versus 8" jointer. So my
question is will it work?
I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

Thanks
Pete

PeteD wrote:

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

snip


If you truly want to do this job by manual methods, then adapt the
tools of the boat builder, namely a fairing board and a fairing batten.

Get as close as you can with the plane, then it's time for the fairing
board.

For this job, build a F/B using a piece of 3/4" plywood about 4"
(100mm) wide and 48" (480mm) long with a handle at each end.
Using rubber cement, glue on a strip of 24 grit sand paper (same stuff
used in floor sanding machines).

Stroke the fairing board back and forth across the surface.

Use a 3/4"x3/4"x1/16"x96" aluminum angle as a fairing batten.

Use the apex as a knife edge on the surface and sight under looking
for high spots. (a 1/32" gap will jump out at you)

When your arms feel like the want to drop off, another 100 strokes and
your board is flat enoughgrin.

Use 100 grit paper to clean up 24 grit marks.

This is how they have been finishing boat hulls since time immortal.

It is extremely labor intensive, but there is no substitute.

Have fun.

Lew

On 27 Jul 2006 16:56:53 -0700, "PeteD"
wrote:

Hi,

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.

This is a much cheaper route ie hand planer versus 8" jointer. So my
question is will it work?
I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

Thanks
Pete

Before using the thickness planer use a pair of winding sticks and a
belt sander (or plane). This step will take some patience and
frequent checking with the sticks.

Reads:

For this job, build a F/B using a piece of 3/4" plywood about 4"
(100mm)
wide and 48" (480mm) long with a handle at each end.

Should read:


For this job, build a F/B using a piece of 3/4" plywood about 4"
(100mm)
wide and 48" (1.220mm) long with a handle at each end.

Lew

PeteD wrote:
Hi,

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

People that can flatten a board in 5 - 10 minutes are probably using a
scrub plane (ex. Stanley 40 1/2) with a slight radius on the blade
rather that a #5.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

(Remove -SPAM- to send email)

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.

This is a much cheaper route ie hand planer versus 8" jointer. So my
question is will it work?
I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

I tried a power planer once and while my board ended up smooth, it certainly
wasn't flat. Good for making cauls, though. Maybe with practice you can
get better, but I'm certainly not rushing out to buy one.

- Owen -

Ok, that's useful info, maybe this is a bad idea then.

Cheers
Pete

Owen Lawrence wrote:
I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.

This is a much cheaper route ie hand planer versus 8" jointer. So my
question is will it work?
I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

I tried a power planer once and while my board ended up smooth, it certainly
wasn't flat. Good for making cauls, though. Maybe with practice you can
get better, but I'm certainly not rushing out to buy one.

- Owen -

Thanks for that, I've never heard of that technique before.

Pete


Lew Hodgett wrote:
PeteD wrote:

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

snip


If you truly want to do this job by manual methods, then adapt the
tools of the boat builder, namely a fairing board and a fairing batten.

Get as close as you can with the plane, then it's time for the fairing
board.

For this job, build a F/B using a piece of 3/4" plywood about 4"
(100mm) wide and 48" (480mm) long with a handle at each end.
Using rubber cement, glue on a strip of 24 grit sand paper (same stuff
used in floor sanding machines).

Stroke the fairing board back and forth across the surface.

Use a 3/4"x3/4"x1/16"x96" aluminum angle as a fairing batten.

Use the apex as a knife edge on the surface and sight under looking
for high spots. (a 1/32" gap will jump out at you)

When your arms feel like the want to drop off, another 100 strokes and
your board is flat enoughgrin.

Use 100 grit paper to clean up 24 grit marks.

This is how they have been finishing boat hulls since time immortal.

It is extremely labor intensive, but there is no substitute.

Have fun.

Lew

Owen Lawrence wrote:
I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.

This is a much cheaper route ie hand planer versus 8" jointer. So my
question is will it work?
I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

I tried a power planer once and while my board ended up smooth, it certainly
wasn't flat. Good for making cauls, though. Maybe with practice you can
get better, but I'm certainly not rushing out to buy one.

If you've got a planer (thicknesser) you can get a board flat. You'll
need to make a torsion box though. Basically you put the curved board
on the flat torsion box and shim it so it sits still. Then you run it
through the planer until it's flat on top. Then flip it and make the
other side parallel to the top. If you want more details I can
probably google up a link for you.

JP

Hi

1m x 150 - you mean 1m x 1.5m?

A No. 5 is a a bit short for this, but not too bad. If you can only
have one plane then a jack is the best to have.

It's not rocket science. Keep planing down the high spots - you find
these by sighting along the length of the board. If there's a hump in
the middle, plane the hump. If the middle is low, bring the ends down
to match (There are good reasons for starting with the side that has
the hump in the middle.) Plane the first face until it looks flat -
flip it over onto your benchtop or check it with a staight-edge. You
should back off your cutter as you approach a flat surface. Take a
shaving the full length of the board and you're there. Wider boards are
trickier, but then your first strokes were diagonal to the long axis,
right?

Once you've got a flat face you mark the thickness with a marking gauge
and then start working on the highest spots on the opposite face.

The sequence can vary... joint one edge, then one face or joint one
face and one edge. 2 flat faces and one edge at 90° is the goal. Keep
your try square handy.

5-10 minutes is a long time if you keep your plane moving. I've never
used a stopwatch, but 1.5m (approx 5 ft) is quite doable in 5 mins in
most woods.

Cheers



PeteD wrote:
Hi,

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.

This is a much cheaper route ie hand planer versus 8" jointer. So my
question is will it work?
I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

Thanks
Pete

It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!


I've flattened a fair number of boards by hand before I got my 8"
jointer. I also took a week long course with Rob Cosman summer 2005
and made several 6 sided boards completely by hand.

As a general rule people who say 5-10 minutes to flat from rough stock
on a board that large are liars. It's taken me 30 minutes on a few
occassions to get ALL the rock out. I would say in 10 minutes you
could get most boards without twist flat enough on ONE side to put
through a planer.

Rob's criteria was NO rocking at all. THAT can take a while.

Flipping the board and burnishing the high spots on the bench helps
identify them.

Alan wearing asbestos!

PeteD wrote:
Hi,

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.


A good tool (the best?) for the rough part is a scrub plane:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,41182,48944
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/r...es_559.sht ml

"PeteD" wrote

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted

Try a look at my web site - Planing Notes - Fundamentals.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.

I think this is only feasible if you can form cambers on the cutters. There
was an article in Fine Woodworking maybe a year or so ago that described
its use on wide surfaces.

2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.

You will need to form a true face before thicknessing, otherwise any twist
will be reproduced.

I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

Reportedly not. Said usually to only be useful for planing door edges and
suchlike.

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

Jeff Gorman wrote:


"PeteD" wrote

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted

Try a look at my web site - Planing Notes - Fundamentals.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.

I think this is only feasible if you can form cambers on the cutters.
There
was an article in Fine Woodworking maybe a year or so ago that described
its use on wide surfaces.

The problem with a hand planer IMO is that it's a stock removal tool, not a
flattening tool--it will follow a warped surface the same way that a
thickness planer will.

2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.

You will need to form a true face before thicknessing, otherwise any twist
will be reproduced.

It's something of a "rig" but you can make a sled that supports the piece in
the twisted condition. May have to make multiple passes though--if the
twist is severe it may get part way through and reach a point that the
drive rollers don't have enough contact to keep moving it. Remember to
turn the planer _off_ before messing with it when that happens. The
result won't be perfect unless you're _very_ careful in the sled
construction but it may be "good enough"

For pieces 1m x 150 (mm on the last I presume) the little Delta bench
jointer will work fine (it will actually work for surprisingly large pieces
if you're careful about support) and it's not horribly expensive.

I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

Reportedly not. Said usually to only be useful for planing door edges and
suchlike.

Jeff G


--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Pete,
It's called a 'Long Board' and the technique is often called 'longboarding'.

How do you think 'Popeye's arms got like that ??

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"PeteD" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for that, I've never heard of that technique before.

Pete


Lew Hodgett wrote:
PeteD wrote:

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding
it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

snip


If you truly want to do this job by manual methods, then adapt the
tools of the boat builder, namely a fairing board and a fairing batten.

Get as close as you can with the plane, then it's time for the fairing
board.

For this job, build a F/B using a piece of 3/4" plywood about 4"
(100mm) wide and 48" (480mm) long with a handle at each end.
Using rubber cement, glue on a strip of 24 grit sand paper (same stuff
used in floor sanding machines).

Stroke the fairing board back and forth across the surface.

Use a 3/4"x3/4"x1/16"x96" aluminum angle as a fairing batten.

Use the apex as a knife edge on the surface and sight under looking
for high spots. (a 1/32" gap will jump out at you)

When your arms feel like the want to drop off, another 100 strokes and
your board is flat enoughgrin.

Use 100 grit paper to clean up 24 grit marks.

This is how they have been finishing boat hulls since time immortal.

It is extremely labor intensive, but there is no substitute.

Have fun.

Lew

Hi

No need for the asbestos panties just yet. I'm still not clear on the
size of the board, or the species of wood involved. Also, there's a
question of how flat is flat. Jointing boards that will be glued up to
form a tabletop which will then need to be levelled is different from
planing a shelf that will go directly to finishing. Also, in my mind
5-10 minutes would be for *one face* of fairly mild grain.

I'm curious myself about how long it takes to joint a board of a
certain size. I have some rough American white oak boards that I need
to dress for a project I'm about to start. The stock is 8/4 (50mm) and
approx 5" (250mm) wide. The longest piece will be about 3' 6" ( 1.07m).
I'm building a stand for a 2' (60cm) grinding wheel FWIW.

My planing sequence is as follows: scrubbing with iron jackplane set
fairly coarse; jointing with a 24" wooden jointer; final dressing with
the same jackplane set fine.

I'll go and dress all 4 sides of the 2 long pieces I need. I will note
my times on each of the four faces and I will report back truthfully
what my times were. If anyone else wants to repeat the experiment, I'd
be curious to hear their results.

Later ppls





arw01 wrote:
It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!


I've flattened a fair number of boards by hand before I got my 8"
jointer. I also took a week long course with Rob Cosman summer 2005
and made several 6 sided boards completely by hand.

As a general rule people who say 5-10 minutes to flat from rough stock
on a board that large are liars. It's taken me 30 minutes on a few
occassions to get ALL the rock out. I would say in 10 minutes you
could get most boards without twist flat enough on ONE side to put
through a planer.

Rob's criteria was NO rocking at all. THAT can take a while.

Flipping the board and burnishing the high spots on the bench helps
identify them.

Alan wearing asbestos!

Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

Very nice website Jeff, tons of good info there.

Dave



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"PeteD" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.

This is a much cheaper route ie hand planer versus 8" jointer. So my
question is will it work?
I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

Thanks
Pete

Sounds like you have the right tools - the 13" planer will provide a
parallel board. To remove the twist, mount it on a sled, then run one side
through the planer until flat, remove the sled, flip it over and run the
other side through.

To do it by hand, Google winding sticks.

Dave



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[snip]
... American white oak boards that I need
to dress for a project I'm about to start. The stock is 8/4 (50mm) and
approx 5" (250mm) wide. The longest piece will be about 3' 6" ( 1.07m).
...

HI

If I ever challenge myself to a planing time trial again it will be in
winter and it won't be oak - whew!

I did not dress 4 sides. I bailed out and hit the shower after planing
the first face and one edge of each board. I'll go back at it after it
cools down a bit.

I brought a clock with a second hand down to my basement shop. I made a
timesheet and recorded start and finish times. I took breaks which are
not included in the times. I *did* include the time it took to
re-adjust the wooden jointer on the first board. I tested with a 60"
straight-edge. I quit when the straight-edge didn't rock when placed
lengthwise or diagonally.


I planed the first face of the first board in 8 minutes. The stock was
quite straight - just average cupping. . Planing the edge was about 90
seconds.

The second board was more challenging. It's from the same plank, but
the grain runs from both ends to the middle, creating quite a bend. I
had to remove a lot more material and had some tear-out along the way.
Took 20 minutes. Same 90 seconds for the edge.

Planing the second faces will take a bit longer because it I'll need to
check for parallel as well as flatness.

So, 5-10 minutes a face was quite optimistic. White oak is pretty high
on the hardness scale, though, and cutters have to be set quite fine.

I'd still like to know what others' experiences are.

Cheers

drifwood

Apologies for the ambiguity.

1metre long x 150mm wide. 6 inches when I grew up (England), you guys
in the US still use inches. We actually use both at times which is a
terrible habit but some things just come into my head in inches. I
digress.

I'm just experimenting with making wider boards and then furniture with
hand tools only.

thanks Pete.

drifwood wrote:
Hi

1m x 150 - you mean 1m x 1.5m?

A No. 5 is a a bit short for this, but not too bad. If you can only
have one plane then a jack is the best to have.

It's not rocket science. Keep planing down the high spots - you find
these by sighting along the length of the board. If there's a hump in
the middle, plane the hump. If the middle is low, bring the ends down
to match (There are good reasons for starting with the side that has
the hump in the middle.) Plane the first face until it looks flat -
flip it over onto your benchtop or check it with a staight-edge. You
should back off your cutter as you approach a flat surface. Take a
shaving the full length of the board and you're there. Wider boards are
trickier, but then your first strokes were diagonal to the long axis,
right?

Once you've got a flat face you mark the thickness with a marking gauge
and then start working on the highest spots on the opposite face.

The sequence can vary... joint one edge, then one face or joint one
face and one edge. 2 flat faces and one edge at 90° is the goal. Keep
your try square handy.

5-10 minutes is a long time if you keep your plane moving. I've never
used a stopwatch, but 1.5m (approx 5 ft) is quite doable in 5 mins in
most woods.

Cheers



PeteD wrote:
Hi,

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.

This is a much cheaper route ie hand planer versus 8" jointer. So my
question is will it work?
I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

Thanks
Pete

Get a small thickness planer and run the board through on a carrier, then
flip it and run normally.
The hand planer is a great tool but it's hard to make passes that match. I
always get ridges, but it's a start.
Life is short and small planers are really cheap now. Think second hand, if
necessary.
Wilson
"PeteD" wrote in message
oups.com...
Apologies for the ambiguity.

1metre long x 150mm wide. 6 inches when I grew up (England), you guys
in the US still use inches. We actually use both at times which is a
terrible habit but some things just come into my head in inches. I
digress.

I'm just experimenting with making wider boards and then furniture with
hand tools only.

thanks Pete.

drifwood wrote:
Hi

1m x 150 - you mean 1m x 1.5m?

A No. 5 is a a bit short for this, but not too bad. If you can only
have one plane then a jack is the best to have.

It's not rocket science. Keep planing down the high spots - you find
these by sighting along the length of the board. If there's a hump in
the middle, plane the hump. If the middle is low, bring the ends down
to match (There are good reasons for starting with the side that has
the hump in the middle.) Plane the first face until it looks flat -
flip it over onto your benchtop or check it with a staight-edge. You
should back off your cutter as you approach a flat surface. Take a
shaving the full length of the board and you're there. Wider boards are
trickier, but then your first strokes were diagonal to the long axis,
right?

Once you've got a flat face you mark the thickness with a marking gauge
and then start working on the highest spots on the opposite face.

The sequence can vary... joint one edge, then one face or joint one
face and one edge. 2 flat faces and one edge at 90° is the goal. Keep
your try square handy.

5-10 minutes is a long time if you keep your plane moving. I've never
used a stopwatch, but 1.5m (approx 5 ft) is quite doable in 5 mins in
most woods.

Cheers



PeteD wrote:
Hi,

I've been using very good equipment at a polytechnic for a few years
and I'm experimenting with ways of acheiving similar results at home
without the full outlay for a jointer and thcknesser.

I've been trying to flatten stock by hand using my Stanley No5 (I've
done work on the plane and use scary sharpening method). I'm finding it
difficult to get a good flat face on a board 1m x 150. It was a bit
twisted which wouldn't help but I'm amazed at claims of people doing
this in 5-10 mins!!

I've started to think about the following process.

1. Use a hand held electric planer to get it roughly flat.
2. Run through a cheap thicknesser like the 13" Ryobi.
3. Flip and plane the original face with the thicknesser.
4. Edge joint by hand.

This is a much cheaper route ie hand planer versus 8" jointer. So my
question is will it work?
I've never used a hand electric planer, would they be effective in this
process?

Thanks
Pete