What is the best way to achieve a satin finish when using lacquer? I
plan on spraying the finish using Behlens Qualalacq lacquer. Should I
use their gloss lacquer for all 3 - 4+ coats and then rub it out to the
desired finish, or should I use their satin lacquer from start to
finish? Or should I use gloss for everything but the final 1 or 2
coats and then switch to satin? Does it make any difference? Then
only problem I can see with using satin for all coats is that it might
not be as clear.

The gloss lacquer is in stock locally, but the satin lacquer will have
to be ordered. There is no difference in cost, and the ordering
process will not delay my project because I'm still at least a few
weeks away from being ready to finish.

This will be my first time using lacquer, so I'd appreciate any help
you can provide. By the way, I'm aware of the inherent risks
associated with spraying nitrocellulose lacquers. I will be wearing a
respirator and applying the finish in a well ventillated 3-car detached
garage, so I think I have the safety aspects well covered. With that
said, I welcome all comments.

Thanks,
Mike
Cypress, TX

wrote:

What is the best way to achieve a satin finish when using lacquer? I
plan on spraying the finish using Behlens Qualalacq lacquer. Should I
use their gloss lacquer for all 3 - 4+ coats and then rub it out to the
desired finish, or should I use their satin lacquer from start to
finish? Or should I use gloss for everything but the final 1 or 2
coats and then switch to satin? Does it make any difference? Then
only problem I can see with using satin for all coats is that it might
not be as clear.

The gloss lacquer is in stock locally, but the satin lacquer will have
to be ordered. There is no difference in cost, and the ordering
process will not delay my project because I'm still at least a few
weeks away from being ready to finish.

This will be my first time using lacquer, so I'd appreciate any help
you can provide. By the way, I'm aware of the inherent risks
associated with spraying nitrocellulose lacquers. I will be wearing a
respirator and applying the finish in a well ventillated 3-car detached
garage, so I think I have the safety aspects well covered. With that
said, I welcome all comments.

Thanks,
Mike
Cypress, TX

You could use the gloss for all but the last coat to maintain maximum
clarity.

Dave

On 21 Feb 2006 08:39:54 -0800, wrote:

What is the best way to achieve a satin finish when using lacquer? I
plan on spraying the finish using Behlens Qualalacq lacquer. Should I
use their gloss lacquer for all 3 - 4+ coats and then rub it out to the
desired finish, or should I use their satin lacquer from start to
finish? Or should I use gloss for everything but the final 1 or 2
coats and then switch to satin? Does it make any difference? Then
only problem I can see with using satin for all coats is that it might
not be as clear.

The gloss lacquer is in stock locally, but the satin lacquer will have
to be ordered. There is no difference in cost, and the ordering
process will not delay my project because I'm still at least a few
weeks away from being ready to finish.

This will be my first time using lacquer, so I'd appreciate any help
you can provide. By the way, I'm aware of the inherent risks
associated with spraying nitrocellulose lacquers. I will be wearing a
respirator and applying the finish in a well ventillated 3-car detached
garage, so I think I have the safety aspects well covered. With that
said, I welcome all comments.

Thanks,
Mike
Cypress, TX

I prefer using gloss and rubbing it out with fine steel wool and a paste
wax. It's just a matter of opinion.

Brian

Brian Mahaney wrote:

On 21 Feb 2006 08:39:54 -0800, wrote:


What is the best way to achieve a satin finish when using lacquer? I
plan on spraying the finish using Behlens Qualalacq lacquer. Should I
use their gloss lacquer for all 3 - 4+ coats and then rub it out to the
desired finish, or should I use their satin lacquer from start to
finish? Or should I use gloss for everything but the final 1 or 2
coats and then switch to satin? Does it make any difference? Then
only problem I can see with using satin for all coats is that it might
not be as clear.

The gloss lacquer is in stock locally, but the satin lacquer will have
to be ordered. There is no difference in cost, and the ordering
process will not delay my project because I'm still at least a few
weeks away from being ready to finish.

This will be my first time using lacquer, so I'd appreciate any help
you can provide. By the way, I'm aware of the inherent risks
associated with spraying nitrocellulose lacquers. I will be wearing a
respirator and applying the finish in a well ventillated 3-car detached
garage, so I think I have the safety aspects well covered. With that
said, I welcome all comments.

Thanks,
Mike
Cypress, TX


I prefer using gloss and rubbing it out with fine steel wool and a paste
wax. It's just a matter of opinion.

Brian
That works too, except it's difficult to remove the gloss from fine
details, grooves, beads, etc. That's when i make sure the last coat
will be quite close to the final sheen the project needs to be, so that
the eye won't catch a large disparity in gloss between different areas.

Dave

In article .com,
wrote:

Or should I use gloss for everything but the final 1 or 2
coats and then switch to satin? Does it make any difference?

The sheen is adjusted by the addition of silica. The gloss lacquer is the purest
and clearest. I use gloss all the way through till the last 2 coats.
The first couple of coats, I add a little extra thinner for maximum penetration
into the wood fibres. I start sanding after coat 2.

2 ****-coats
2 build coats
2 finish coats
-----------
one day's work.

Brian Mahaney wrote:


I prefer using gloss and rubbing it out with fine steel wool and a paste
wax. It's just a matter of opinion.

Make that two copies of this opinion.

If you rub the final finish out at all, you'll probably rub through the
flattening agent. Matching the areas where there is a flattening agent
to those where you've gone through it is a PITA. Since you almost
always need to rub out at least a bit, just stay with gloss.

Barry

B a r r y wrote:

Brian Mahaney wrote:


I prefer using gloss and rubbing it out with fine steel wool and a paste
wax. It's just a matter of opinion.


Make that two copies of this opinion.

If you rub the final finish out at all, you'll probably rub through the
flattening agent. Matching the areas where there is a flattening agent
to those where you've gone through it is a PITA. Since you almost
always need to rub out at least a bit, just stay with gloss.

Barry
I agree if you'll be doing much rubbing of the finish, do the last TWO
coats in satin. I've been able to get some finishes to come out fine
without rubbing the final coat, when the stars are all in alignment.

Dave

On 21 Feb 2006 08:39:54 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
quickly quoth:

What is the best way to achieve a satin finish when using lacquer? I
plan on spraying the finish using Behlens Qualalacq lacquer. Should I
use their gloss lacquer for all 3 - 4+ coats and then rub it out to the
desired finish, or should I use their satin lacquer from start to
finish? Or should I use gloss for everything but the final 1 or 2
coats and then switch to satin? Does it make any difference? Then
only problem I can see with using satin for all coats is that it might
not be as clear.

What kind of piece is the recipient of the finish? If it's finer
woodworking, use clear for the buildup then switch to satin for the
topcoat. If perfect clarity isn't as much of an issue, go satin all
the way. There is a subtle difference, so if you can discern it, go
with what you like.

P.S: Thank you for not just smearing some poly on the project.

--
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly
is to fill the world with fools.
--Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)

wrote in message
oups.com...
What is the best way to achieve a satin finish when using lacquer? I
plan on spraying the finish using Behlens Qualalacq lacquer. Should I
use their gloss lacquer for all 3 - 4+ coats and then rub it out to the
desired finish, or should I use their satin lacquer from start to
finish? Or should I use gloss for everything but the final 1 or 2
coats and then switch to satin? Does it make any difference? Then
only problem I can see with using satin for all coats is that it might
not be as clear.

The gloss lacquer is in stock locally, but the satin lacquer will have
to be ordered. There is no difference in cost, and the ordering
process will not delay my project because I'm still at least a few
weeks away from being ready to finish.

This will be my first time using lacquer, so I'd appreciate any help
you can provide. By the way, I'm aware of the inherent risks
associated with spraying nitrocellulose lacquers. I will be wearing a
respirator and applying the finish in a well ventillated 3-car detached
garage, so I think I have the safety aspects well covered. With that
said, I welcome all comments.

Thanks,
Mike
Cypress, TX


Basically gloss laquer results in the hardest finish . So I would shoot it
with gloss and then rub it out with behlens wool wax to get a satin
finish.....been there done that for the last 20 years

Thanks to all of you for the input. To answer the question of what
this project is...I am building some built-in cabinets for the arch
shaped entertainment nooks on either side of the fireplace in my family
room. Both of them have a base section of cabinets with 3 doors. The
right two doors open into a cabinet, and the left door opens to expose
4 drawers stacked vertically. The top section of one built-in will
house the TV and stereo equipment, so it has sliding pocket doors that
can be closed to conceal the equipement when it's not in use (wife's
request). The top section of the other built-in is simply shelves.
The whole project is constructed of red oak (both 4/4 solid and
plywood). Just to clarify - I said these are built-ins, but they are
actually being constructed as stand alone cabinets out in the garage.
They are SLIGHTLY smaller than the opening they will slide into, so
I'll just make some small oak trim (~1/4" to 3/8" wide) to cover the
small gap between the cabinets and wall.

By the end of this weekend I should be almost ready to begin the
finisihing process. After all I've put into these beauties, I'd hate
to ruin them by screwing up the finish. I have to admit that I
originally considered poly as an option because of its durability, but
these things are way too nice for that. I may never use poly again.

wrote:

By the end of this weekend I should be almost ready to begin the
finisihing process. After all I've put into these beauties, I'd hate
to ruin them by screwing up the finish.

That's the beauty of lacquer. Mistakes are usually extremely easy to
fix. G

On 23 Feb 2006 07:04:33 -0800, wrote:

Just to clarify - I said these are built-ins, but they are
actually being constructed as stand alone cabinets out in the garage.
They are SLIGHTLY smaller than the opening they will slide into, so
I'll just make some small oak trim (~1/4" to 3/8" wide) to cover the
small gap between the cabinets and wall.

I think most built-ins are constructed that way and trimmed in place
to conceal the gaps. I know that's how I did my wife's shelving unit,
which thankfully, does not smell of dog urine. But damn, it sure
does look good in place.