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#1
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Hi Group, I am adding 2 24" cabinets to each side of our stove, with
silestone counters. Since they will not be large like a long run of cabinets, I don't think I can just depend on weight to hold the tops in place. Anyone know how to fasten the counter? They will both be in a 'corner' as well. thanks, chas |
#2
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On Wed, 1 Feb 2006 10:06:47 -0500, "Chas12"
wrote: Hi Group, I am adding 2 24" cabinets to each side of our stove, with silestone counters. Since they will not be large like a long run of cabinets, I don't think I can just depend on weight to hold the tops in place. Anyone know how to fasten the counter? They will both be in a 'corner' as well. thanks, chas The weight will keep it down, construction glue will keep it from shifting. Things to watch out for: Make sure that joints are well supported on both sides by the SAME support. I have a slight drop in mine where the joint was positioned over a corner cabinet and one side was not adequately supported. TWS |
#3
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PING for Robatoy, now known as "r".
He is a solid surface guy, but I'll bet this is certainly in his field of expertise. Robert |
#4
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![]() The weight will keep it down, construction glue will keep it from shifting. My granite is held in place with silicone caulk. I would opt for the silicone over construction adhesive only because it would hold perfectly well, but could be cut free if you really had to. Undoing construction adhesive without applying stesses that would crack silestone would be difficult. -Steve |
#5
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In article ,
"Stephen M" wrote: I would opt for the silicone over construction adhesive only because it would hold perfectly well, but could be cut free if you really had to. A very good point. You also don't want the bond between cabinets and acrylic-type countertops to be too tough as expansion and contraction can cause some grief. |
#6
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I bought a silestone vanity top last year. The vendor,
www.e-counters.com, supplied a silicon cauking. Layed a bead of that around the base and set the top on that. Solid as a rock. |
#7
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In article , "Chas12" wrote:
Hi Group, I am adding 2 24" cabinets to each side of our stove, with silestone counters. Since they will not be large like a long run of cabinets, I don't think I can just depend on weight to hold the tops in place. Anyone know how to fasten the counter? They will both be in a 'corner' as well. thanks, chas *tips hat to Robert (nailshooter)* Thank you for the vote of confidence. If the Silestone sections are small, flip them over and clean the bottom with methyl hydrate. Then, place a healthy blob of silicone II (GE) on each corner of the cabinet. Gently lower the Silestone straight down..DO NOT slide sideways/shift. DO NOT push down. Allow the slab to find it's own comfy level. Go away for 12 hours. When the silicone sets, it will prevent the top from sliding and the viscosity of the silicone will go to work as a 'leveller', making up for any 'unevenesses' (one of my guys used to use that word, it kinda stuck.) For the engineered stone fans, check out Hanstone. Gorgeous colours, one price. Same formula as Zodiaq, Silestone, Cambria = 93% Quartz 7% Acrylic binder. or click on the Hanstone button on my website http://www.topworks.ca How is THAT for a shameless plug, eh? r |
#8
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On Wed, 01 Feb 2006 11:13:21 -0500, Robatoy
wrote: In article , "Chas12" wrote: Hi Group, I am adding 2 24" cabinets to each side of our stove, with silestone counters. Since they will not be large like a long run of cabinets, I don't think I can just depend on weight to hold the tops in place. Anyone know how to fasten the counter? They will both be in a 'corner' as well. thanks, chas *tips hat to Robert (nailshooter)* Thank you for the vote of confidence. If the Silestone sections are small, flip them over and clean the bottom with methyl hydrate. Then, place a healthy blob of silicone II (GE) on each corner of the cabinet. Gently lower the Silestone straight down..DO NOT slide sideways/shift. DO NOT push down. Allow the slab to find it's own comfy level. Go away for 12 hours. When the silicone sets, it will prevent the top from sliding and the viscosity of the silicone will go to work as a 'leveller', making up for any 'unevenesses' (one of my guys used to use that word, it kinda stuck.) For the engineered stone fans, check out Hanstone. Gorgeous colours, one price. Same formula as Zodiaq, Silestone, Cambria = 93% Quartz 7% Acrylic binder. or click on the Hanstone button on my website http://www.topworks.ca How is THAT for a shameless plug, eh? r thanks for the heads up. we have been looking at silestone but SWMBO cant decide on a color. think african mahogany nateral clear finish and white appliances. suggestions? for the last few months it has been chip board tops with contac paper of every color under the sun!!!! she gets a diferent color nearly every week. im a little tired of seeing my nice work covered with contac paper! maybe in a year or two she will find a color she likes. lmao..gotta love her but i would realy like to finnish this kitchen. sorry bout the rambling on. skeez |
#9
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In article ,
skeezics wrote: [snipperized for brevity] thanks for the heads up. we have been looking at silestone but SWMBO cant decide on a color. think african mahogany nateral clear finish and white appliances. suggestions? My normal suggestions include the pitfalls of the darker colours, the 'hard-to-keep-clean' of the very light, solid colours....and above all...stay away from the really trendy colours. Too much colour forces one into having to decorate around it for the next umpteen years. Any of these countertops are a lot of money, so appreciate what your wife is doing. But to get locked in to Hunter Green, for example, will be asking for disappointment down the road. It will show fingerprints, like all the dark ones, and what other colours go with Hunter Green? There are plenty of natural colours available, in the earth tones and greys/platinums. Then there is the colour "Festival", which looks like somebody threw up Smarties into a bucket of curdled milk. ![]() |
#10
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On Thu, 02 Feb 2006 23:42:55 -0500, Robatoy
wrote: In article , skeezics wrote: [snipperized for brevity] thanks for the heads up. we have been looking at silestone but SWMBO cant decide on a color. think african mahogany nateral clear finish and white appliances. suggestions? My normal suggestions include the pitfalls of the darker colours, the 'hard-to-keep-clean' of the very light, solid colours....and above all...stay away from the really trendy colours. Too much colour forces one into having to decorate around it for the next umpteen years. Any of these countertops are a lot of money, so appreciate what your wife is doing. But to get locked in to Hunter Green, for example, will be asking for disappointment down the road. It will show fingerprints, like all the dark ones, and what other colours go with Hunter Green? There are plenty of natural colours available, in the earth tones and greys/platinums. Then there is the colour "Festival", which looks like somebody threw up Smarties into a bucket of curdled milk. ![]() lmao!!!! she is leaning towards light colors sooo...... guess i will find out when she makes up her mind. thanks for clearing up some q's though. i had not thought about fingerprints and such when leaning toward dark colors. skeez |
#11
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We have the silestone color called Blue Sahara. It's terrific, and so
multicolored that nothing shows. Chas |
#12
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Robatoy wrote:
In article , skeezics wrote: [snipperized for brevity [and again]] Then there is the colour "Festival", which looks like somebody threw up Smarties into a bucket of curdled milk. ![]() Long ago, Maggie and I gave up designer stuff for "stain colored" stuff like rugs and counter tops. We have the **** brindle green burble silestone counter tops in the kitchen and it is working well. We swamp it down as needed and napalm it a couple times a year whether it needs it or not. housekeeper, jo4hn |
#13
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Thanks everyone, I have used silicone as a 'gasket' and vibration damper
many times before, so it's a great idea. Chas |
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