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#1
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Flutes questions
Using a 1/4" diameter round nose bit to make flutes, should the depth be
set to 1/8" and the spacing between the flutes be equal to their width (1/4") for best appearance? Any recommendations for fading stopped flutes to a point if I don't have gouges? I know how to fade beads on my moulder, but not how to accomplish the same thing with the router table for consistency across all the flutes. dave |
#2
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Flutes questions
I'm not sure what the appearance issue is -- maybe something on the
order of the golden rule-(or golden mean) - (hand held router method) You can run the ends to a point with a hand held setup if you use a ramp under the router for the last inch - a 0" to 3/16" ramp will work--with a stop on the ramp to control where the router stops. You will have to play with the length. If the piece will be painted, you can use small brads to attach the ramp & fill them later. If your piece is hardwood, hot glue the ramp in place or use thin double-sided tape to attach the ramp. If you are doing this on a router table as your post suggests, you can build a small auxillary table to go over the bit -So the piece of wood will start high, go down off the ramp to cut at full depth then end high and stop. - You didn't say how wide your piece is, nor how long. |
#3
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Flutes questions
I saw Norm bring an end to flutes on a router table by marking (on the
fence of his router table) the distance from the end of the board to the beginning of the flute. Then marking the distance from the end of the flute to the end of the board. He started his cut by aligning the start mark, dropping the board onto the bit and running the board to the ending mark and lifting the board off of the bit. He never faded a flute on TV that I know of. Tom in KY, With an idea how to do it, but not the guts to try it. |
#4
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Flutes questions
On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 14:40:59 -0800, David wrote:
Using a 1/4" diameter round nose bit to make flutes, should the depth be set to 1/8" and the spacing between the flutes be equal to their width (1/4") for best appearance? Sounds good to me, although the diameter should be proportional to the overall width of the workpiece. I've designed a few bars with fluted columns using similar measurements, usually 3/8"R. I usually leave 2x the flute width on either side of the flute field and the corners, in this case 1/2" or 3/4". Any recommendations for fading stopped flutes to a point if I don't have gouges? I know how to fade beads on my moulder, but not how to accomplish the same thing with the router table for consistency across all the flutes. Thinking out loud, I'd probably do it with a handheld router, and fix a jig with two small ramps to the end, on either side of where the flutes would end. Run the router up the ramps to fade the flutes evenly every time. - Matt |
#6
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Flutes questions
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#7
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Flutes questions
On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 14:40:59 -0800, David wrote:
Using a 1/4" diameter round nose bit to make flutes, should the depth be set to 1/8" and the spacing between the flutes be equal to their width (1/4") for best appearance? If you want the flutes to be adjacent, then you _must_ have a sharp and straight arris (the ridge) between them, or else it looks terrible. You can't do this by routing to one radius depth. This would leave the top edge impossibly thin. You're better off routing to 1/2 or maybe 2/3rd of radius at most. You can't tell visually how deep a flute is - you certainly can tell what its edge looks like. Depending the stability of your router fence, you might even find this best achieved with a tiny gap in routing, then using a rebate plane to slightly cant the edges so that they meet exactly. Classically, flutes generally met at this sharp arris. In furnituremaking though, it was more common for them to be slightly separated, by around 1/3rd diameter. It's also fairly unusual for flutes to "fade". Reeding and chamfers fade, but not usually flutes. If a flute does fade it's more like an oval flute that's maybe twice the length compared to the diameter, not at all a gradual tapering. This is a job for a gouge, which you certainly ought to get hold of - a couple of gouges are always handy. You'll be wanting to prototype these cuts in similarly coloured timber, just so you can see what they look like, as well as how they cut. |
#8
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Flutes questions
Andy Dingley wrote:
On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 14:40:59 -0800, David wrote: Using a 1/4" diameter round nose bit to make flutes, should the depth be set to 1/8" and the spacing between the flutes be equal to their width (1/4") for best appearance? If you want the flutes to be adjacent, then you _must_ have a sharp and straight arris (the ridge) between them, or else it looks terrible. You can't do this by routing to one radius depth. This would leave the top edge impossibly thin. You're better off routing to 1/2 or maybe 2/3rd of radius at most. You can't tell visually how deep a flute is - you certainly can tell what its edge looks like. Depending the stability of your router fence, you might even find this best achieved with a tiny gap in routing, then using a rebate plane to slightly cant the edges so that they meet exactly. Classically, flutes generally met at this sharp arris. In furnituremaking though, it was more common for them to be slightly separated, by around 1/3rd diameter. It's also fairly unusual for flutes to "fade". Reeding and chamfers fade, but not usually flutes. If a flute does fade it's more like an oval flute that's maybe twice the length compared to the diameter, not at all a gradual tapering. This is a job for a gouge, which you certainly ought to get hold of - a couple of gouges are always handy. You'll be wanting to prototype these cuts in similarly coloured timber, just so you can see what they look like, as well as how they cut. Thanks Andy. After a bit of experimentation, I can see that "fading" the flutes isn't necessary aesthetically. I agree practicing should be on the same lumber; I used fir which requires some imagination during eval. I ended up cutting to 1 radius depth, separation of 1 diameter. dave |
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