Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just twists
and it doesn't want to make the curve cut in the wood. I believe I have
adjusted the guides as recommended in the instructions. Am I doing
something wrong with the adjustment? How tight against the blade should the
guides be? Could it be the guides are out of square allowing the blade to
twist? Is it something more obvious that I am not seeing? Is it my cutting
technique?

Thanks

Barry

Barry wrote:
Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just twists
and it doesn't want to make the curve cut in the wood. I believe I have
adjusted the guides as recommended in the instructions. Am I doing
something wrong with the adjustment? How tight against the blade should the
guides be? Could it be the guides are out of square allowing the blade to
twist? Is it something more obvious that I am not seeing? Is it my cutting
technique?

Thanks

Barry



Tension too low? A dollar bill between guides and blade to set gap.
provide a video of your technique and then we'll decide if it's you or
the BS.

dave

How wide is the blade and what are you trying to cut?

Barry wrote:
Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just twists
and it doesn't want to make the curve cut in the wood. I believe I have
adjusted the guides as recommended in the instructions. Am I doing
something wrong with the adjustment? How tight against the blade should the
guides be? Could it be the guides are out of square allowing the blade to
twist? Is it something more obvious that I am not seeing? Is it my cutting
technique?

Thanks

Barry

Check the blade, as you may have taken off the set on one side. Don't
ask! Tom

tom wrote:

Check the blade, as you may have taken off the set on one side. Don't
ask! Tom

good point. time to check that the guides aren't too close to the teeth.

dave

Yes I too had (and I emphasize had) the Ridgid 14 " bandsaw. A couple
of things are important. Upper blade guide as close to work as
possible. Tension tighter than on scale. Make sure your using a sharp,
good blade. The blade makes all the difference. Timberwolf is the
best...Yes I said it.. I am being narrow minded. If you are so
inclined, I would fork out a little cash for the carbon fiber blade
guides, can't remember what they're called, they cost about $10
dollars per set. Forget the dollar bill trick with these babes just ram
them up directly to the blade as close to the teeth as you dare. My
guess is that when you make a left turn you get blade tweeking. I would
start by tensioning up the blade tighter. With a good 1/2 blade I would
tension to the max. Just remember to untension when your done and it
won't do any damage to the saw. Other than that, you could just be
using too wide of a blade. There are plenty of sites out there that
give radius vs. blade width charts. I find they tend to be optomistic.
In order to get descent tight curves with my Ridgid I used an 1/8 "
blade. It can handle thick wood. I used it to cut 2" Zebra wood with no
problem.
Barry wrote:
Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just twists
and it doesn't want to make the curve cut in the wood. I believe I have
adjusted the guides as recommended in the instructions. Am I doing
something wrong with the adjustment? How tight against the blade should the
guides be? Could it be the guides are out of square allowing the blade to
twist? Is it something more obvious that I am not seeing? Is it my cutting
technique?

Thanks

Barry

rickluce wrote:

Yes I too had (and I emphasize had) the Ridgid 14 " bandsaw. A couple
of things are important. Upper blade guide as close to work as
possible. Tension tighter than on scale. Make sure your using a sharp,
good blade. The blade makes all the difference. Timberwolf is the
best...Yes I said it.. I am being narrow minded. If you are so
inclined, I would fork out a little cash for the carbon fiber blade
guides, can't remember what they're called, they cost about $10
dollars per set. Forget the dollar bill trick with these babes just ram
them up directly to the blade as close to the teeth as you dare. My
guess is that when you make a left turn you get blade tweeking. I would
start by tensioning up the blade tighter. With a good 1/2 blade I would
tension to the max. Just remember to untension when your done and it
won't do any damage to the saw. Other than that, you could just be
using too wide of a blade. There are plenty of sites out there that
give radius vs. blade width charts. I find they tend to be optomistic.
In order to get descent tight curves with my Ridgid I used an 1/8 "
blade. It can handle thick wood. I used it to cut 2" Zebra wood with no
problem.
Barry wrote:

Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just twists
and it doesn't want to make the curve cut in the wood. I believe I have
adjusted the guides as recommended in the instructions. Am I doing
something wrong with the adjustment? How tight against the blade should the
guides be? Could it be the guides are out of square allowing the blade to
twist? Is it something more obvious that I am not seeing? Is it my cutting
technique?

Thanks

Barry


All your instructions make me darn glad I got a Powermatic! It tracks
blades straight and guide adjustment is non critical. I can resaw
without having to compensate for blade drift, as it's always dead on
straight. I can tension the blades LESS than what's indicated and still
get unbowed resaws up to full height.

Dave

Barry said:

Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just twists

I can't say that I've ever seen this, but my first suspicion would be
that the set on your blade teeth is not symmetrical. Have you tried a
different blade? Is the band width small enough to allow cutting the
radius you desire? DAGS to find a chart listing the largest blade to
be used with a given radius cut.

FWIW,



Greg G.

It isn't the best saw on the market. I gave it to my brother and moved
up to a 16" Laguna.

"Barry" wrote in message
...
Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just
twists and it doesn't want to make the curve cut in the wood. I believe I
have adjusted the guides as recommended in the instructions. Am I doing
something wrong with the adjustment? How tight against the blade should
the guides be? Could it be the guides are out of square allowing the
blade to twist? Is it something more obvious that I am not seeing? Is it
my cutting technique?

Thanks

Barry

DAGS for bandsaw blade drift. Assuming it tracks properly and the tension
is set properly, each blade has its own drift. Once you determine what
your's is, set your fence for the drift and straight cuts are in your
future.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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Blade is 1/2 inch and am only trying to cut 1/2 inch plywood. Cuts fine in
one direction but not the other.

I'll check the adjustment again

Thanks

Barry



"Mike Berger" wrote in message
...
How wide is the blade and what are you trying to cut?

Barry wrote:
Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just
twists and it doesn't want to make the curve cut in the wood. I believe
I have adjusted the guides as recommended in the instructions. Am I
doing something wrong with the adjustment? How tight against the blade
should the guides be? Could it be the guides are out of square allowing
the blade to twist? Is it something more obvious that I am not seeing?
Is it my cutting technique?

Thanks

Barry

Thanks for the input. I will try additional tension and tighten the guides.
What I don't understand is that it does fine curving in one direction (
can't remember off the top of my head) but not the other. Really effortless
in the one direction. The blade is new but I'll check I did not damage it
messing around with the adjustments. I'll look for the carbon fiber blade
guides. I've never seen them but don't do much wood work so wasn't really
looking. I'm really not trying to make tight cuts. Just slow gradual
curves.

Thanks

Barry


"rickluce" wrote in message
oups.com...
Yes I too had (and I emphasize had) the Ridgid 14 " bandsaw. A couple
of things are important. Upper blade guide as close to work as
possible. Tension tighter than on scale. Make sure your using a sharp,
good blade. The blade makes all the difference. Timberwolf is the
best...Yes I said it.. I am being narrow minded. If you are so
inclined, I would fork out a little cash for the carbon fiber blade
guides, can't remember what they're called, they cost about $10
dollars per set. Forget the dollar bill trick with these babes just ram
them up directly to the blade as close to the teeth as you dare. My
guess is that when you make a left turn you get blade tweeking. I would
start by tensioning up the blade tighter. With a good 1/2 blade I would
tension to the max. Just remember to untension when your done and it
won't do any damage to the saw. Other than that, you could just be
using too wide of a blade. There are plenty of sites out there that
give radius vs. blade width charts. I find they tend to be optomistic.
In order to get descent tight curves with my Ridgid I used an 1/8 "
blade. It can handle thick wood. I used it to cut 2" Zebra wood with no
problem.
Barry wrote:
Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just
twists
and it doesn't want to make the curve cut in the wood. I believe I have
adjusted the guides as recommended in the instructions. Am I doing
something wrong with the adjustment? How tight against the blade should
the
guides be? Could it be the guides are out of square allowing the blade
to
twist? Is it something more obvious that I am not seeing? Is it my
cutting
technique?

Thanks

Barry

Barry said:

Blade is 1/2 inch and am only trying to cut 1/2 inch plywood. Cuts fine in
one direction but not the other.

I'll check the adjustment again

The thickness of the material is irrelevant as to the blade width.

The band width and tooth set determines the minimum cutting radius,
which for a 1/2" blade, is generally about 5" in Diameter. If your
circles/curves are larger than 2.5" in Radius, then the set of your
teeth is probably fubar. If your curves are less than 2.5" in Radius,
then you're just going to twist the blade and remove the tooth set.
In that case, you need to go to a smaller blade width.

FWIW,

Greg G.

Greg G. wrote:
Barry said:


Blade is 1/2 inch and am only trying to cut 1/2 inch plywood. Cuts fine in
one direction but not the other.

I'll check the adjustment again


The thickness of the material is irrelevant as to the blade width.

The band width and tooth set determines the minimum cutting radius,
which for a 1/2" blade, is generally about 5" in Diameter. If your
circles/curves are larger than 2.5" in Radius, then the set of your
teeth is probably fubar. If your curves are less than 2.5" in Radius,
then you're just going to twist the blade and remove the tooth set.
In that case, you need to go to a smaller blade width.

FWIW,

Greg G.
wider blade width generally equates to fewer TPI. Cutting 1/8" or 1/4"
material with 3 tpi wouldn't be a good idea, so I submit that thickness
of material is NOT irrelevant to the blade width, as the TPI is related
to the width of the blade. You want more than 1 tooth engaged in the
material!

Dave

Watched a good "Wood Works" on DIY the other day, Did a fairly complete
bandsaw "tuneup". Try
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/wk_too...278285,00.html
Respectfully,
Ron Moore

"Barry" wrote in message
...
Thanks in advance. Spend most of my hobby time metalworking but
occasionally need to do something in wood. I am having trouble with my
bandsaw. It is an inexpensive RIGID. The problem is that it only cuts a
curve in one direction. If I go the other direction, the blade just
twists and it doesn't want to make the curve cut in the wood. I believe I
have adjusted the guides as recommended in the instructions. Am I doing
something wrong with the adjustment? How tight against the blade should
the guides be? Could it be the guides are out of square allowing the
blade to twist? Is it something more obvious that I am not seeing? Is it
my cutting technique?

Thanks

Barry

David said:

Greg G. wrote:
Barry said:


Blade is 1/2 inch and am only trying to cut 1/2 inch plywood. Cuts fine in
one direction but not the other.

I'll check the adjustment again


The thickness of the material is irrelevant as to the blade width.

The band width and tooth set determines the minimum cutting radius,
which for a 1/2" blade, is generally about 5" in Diameter. If your
circles/curves are larger than 2.5" in Radius, then the set of your
teeth is probably fubar. If your curves are less than 2.5" in Radius,
then you're just going to twist the blade and remove the tooth set.
In that case, you need to go to a smaller blade width.

FWIW,

Greg G.

wider blade width generally equates to fewer TPI. Cutting 1/8" or 1/4"
material with 3 tpi wouldn't be a good idea, so I submit that thickness
of material is NOT irrelevant to the blade width, as the TPI is related
to the width of the blade. You want more than 1 tooth engaged in the
material!

You're right, Dave.
I was referring to the radius of the cut, not the TPI, but you point
out a valid concern.


Greg G.