I'm amazed at the variation in pricing and options for putting all the
mechanical in for my dust collector in my small shop. I have 6 tools
I'd like to collect from and a 3HP G0441 dust collector from Grizzly.

I've gotten quotes for spiral pipe and snap lock (hvac) pipe that range
from $175 to $600. I've talked to local installers and they want $95
an hour for labor !

I know the snap lock pipe (if I'm using the right terminology) is
suppose to be more difficult to work with but have no idea how much so.

Grizzly's piping is outrageously expensive and the sales people at
Oneida I've found to be knowledgeable but pushy. Last I spoke to them,
here's a quote "I'll design your piping for your Grizzly system (I
never told them I bought a Grizzly), but it'll cost you $400". Not a
business winning personality if you know what I mean.

One concern w/ less expensive pipe is for each of the Wye's that go to
the individual tools, I want a sturdy place to be placing the pipe
clamps for the flex hose.

Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

JR

wrote:
I'm amazed at the variation in pricing and options for putting all the
mechanical in for my dust collector in my small shop. I have 6 tools
I'd like to collect from and a 3HP G0441 dust collector from Grizzly.

I've gotten quotes for spiral pipe and snap lock (hvac) pipe that range
from $175 to $600. I've talked to local installers and they want $95
an hour for labor !

I know the snap lock pipe (if I'm using the right terminology) is
suppose to be more difficult to work with but have no idea how much so.

Oh man, don't buy that spiral pipe for a home shop. Way too much buck
for no bang.

I bought the snap pipe from HD (the thicker stuff... they had two
locations in the store). Works great.

You can see it in action on various tools in my shop:

http://www.areddy.net/wood/workshop.html

wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm amazed at the variation in pricing and options for putting all the
mechanical in for my dust collector in my small shop. I have 6 tools
I'd like to collect from and a 3HP G0441 dust collector from Grizzly.

I've gotten quotes for spiral pipe and snap lock (hvac) pipe that range
from $175 to $600. I've talked to local installers and they want $95
an hour for labor !

I know the snap lock pipe (if I'm using the right terminology) is
suppose to be more difficult to work with but have no idea how much so.

Grizzly's piping is outrageously expensive and the sales people at
Oneida I've found to be knowledgeable but pushy. Last I spoke to them,
here's a quote "I'll design your piping for your Grizzly system (I
never told them I bought a Grizzly), but it'll cost you $400". Not a
business winning personality if you know what I mean.

One concern w/ less expensive pipe is for each of the Wye's that go to
the individual tools, I want a sturdy place to be placing the pipe
clamps for the flex hose.

Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

JR


I used PVC drain pipe. About $3.00/10 foot length. "y"s and "t"'s were about
$5 each. Can't glue it but used silicon sealant in the joint and wrapped
with duct tape. Works like a charm.


Vic

http://www.areddy.net/wood/workshop.html

That's a nice looking site and shop!

-John in NH

the snap lock is easy to work with Just wear gloves to avoid accidents. Do
not use the thin stuff at HD, if they have the heaver stuff get that.Do NOT
use HVAC pipe (for the wyes) purchased at HD. look for a local industrial
woodworking supply store near you or go to http://www.airhand.com I just
went though this I my home shop I read all the opinions and different web
sites on materials and finally bite the bullet and purchased four hundred
dollars worth of pipe ,wyes,flexible hose ,ect to connect 8 machines


good luck and be careful puting in the system

len

Larry Bud wrote:
wrote:

I'm amazed at the variation in pricing and options for putting all the
mechanical in for my dust collector in my small shop. I have 6 tools
I'd like to collect from and a 3HP G0441 dust collector from Grizzly.

I've gotten quotes for spiral pipe and snap lock (hvac) pipe that range
from $175 to $600. I've talked to local installers and they want $95
an hour for labor !

I know the snap lock pipe (if I'm using the right terminology) is
suppose to be more difficult to work with but have no idea how much so.


Oh man, don't buy that spiral pipe for a home shop. Way too much buck
for no bang.

I bought the snap pipe from HD (the thicker stuff... they had two
locations in the store). Works great.

You can see it in action on various tools in my shop:

http://www.areddy.net/wood/workshop.html


Nice setup!

What's the diameter of the snap pipe? 8" for the main run, with 6" runs
to each tool?

How do you cut the snap pipe?

-jav

I took the cheap route: 26 gauge snaplock pipe from HVACommerce.com
($5.66 for 5" x 5'), "economy" 26 gauge fittings from Penn State
Industries, and I installed it myself. The snaplock really isn't hard
to work with - there's a bit of a trick to snapping it, but you'll get
the hang of it after a few pieces. Definitely not a $95/hr skill level.
As far as attaching the flex hose, you'll amost certainly want a blast
gate at each tool, so the hose will usually connect to the gate, not
directly to the pipe.

$400 for design? Humph. This ain't rocket science, and you don't need
CAD drawings with 0.001" precision. Spend $20 on a decent book, and you
can do the pressure loss, airflow, and air velocity calculations
yourself. If you don't feel like doing the math, it's a fairly safe bet
that 5" pipe is the right size for an average hobby shop, using one
machine at a time.

In article .com,
wrote:

I'm amazed at the variation in pricing and options for putting all the
mechanical in for my dust collector in my small shop. I have 6 tools
I'd like to collect from and a 3HP G0441 dust collector from Grizzly.

I've gotten quotes for spiral pipe and snap lock (hvac) pipe that range
from $175 to $600. I've talked to local installers and they want $95
an hour for labor !

I know the snap lock pipe (if I'm using the right terminology) is
suppose to be more difficult to work with but have no idea how much so.

Grizzly's piping is outrageously expensive and the sales people at
Oneida I've found to be knowledgeable but pushy. Last I spoke to them,
here's a quote "I'll design your piping for your Grizzly system (I
never told them I bought a Grizzly), but it'll cost you $400". Not a
business winning personality if you know what I mean.

One concern w/ less expensive pipe is for each of the Wye's that go to
the individual tools, I want a sturdy place to be placing the pipe
clamps for the flex hose.

Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

JR


I got a great deal from a small local sheet metal shop on the y's
(6-5-5, 5-5-4, 5-4-4) and heavy snap-lock I needed. Sorry, can't
remember now what he charged, but after looking at Grizz and Oneida I
about fell over at how cheap he was in comparison. You might get a few
specs together and call around locally.

PDX David

JR, what do you think about your G0441? You probably don't have it
operating yet, but can you comment on the fit and finish? any regrets?
I have the 5hp G0442 on backorder. Thanks.

writes:

$400 for design? Humph. This ain't rocket science, and you don't need
CAD drawings with 0.001" precision. Spend $20 on a decent book, and you
can do the pressure loss, airflow, and air velocity calculations
yourself. If you don't feel like doing the math, it's a fairly safe bet
that 5" pipe is the right size for an average hobby shop, using one
machine at a time.

Oneida-Air will do drawings for $50. It is free if you bought your dust
collector from them. They will also credit the $50 if you buy in the
future.

I don't know what they will do if you say you want plans for a different
brand collector. I would just pick the Oneida-Air model with the closest
airflow to your collector if you want them to do plans for a non-Oneida
collector.

Brian Elfert

JR, I noticed your reply to my previous post. I can't tell you how
much it means to have input from someone who owns one of these new
Grizzly cyclones. Still waffling between Oneida & Grizzly.

"I used PVC drain pipe. About $3.00/10 foot length. "

Me too, made my own blast gates, plans in one of the woodworking mags.

Walt Conner

Javier Henderson said:

Nice setup!

What's the diameter of the snap pipe? 8" for the main run, with 6" runs
to each tool?

How do you cut the snap pipe?

If you're smart, you'll measure and cut with tin-snips before snapping
it together.


Greg G.

Larry Bud said:

You can see it in action on various tools in my shop:

http://www.areddy.net/wood/workshop.html

Nice shop - I am envious of the space.
A couple of the shots looked like my pictures from a couple of years
ago - the pegboard shot, for instance. I did a double take... ;-)
It's long gone, however, having had to rebuild the walls and ceiling.

Suppose I'll have to put up a shop page one of these days...
I have a few badly outdated projects pages and a CAD rendering of the
shop, but no pictures...


Greg G.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm amazed at the variation in pricing and options for putting all the
mechanical in for my dust collector in my small shop. I have 6 tools
I'd like to collect from and a 3HP G0441 dust collector from Grizzly.

I've gotten quotes for spiral pipe and snap lock (hvac) pipe that range
from $175 to $600. I've talked to local installers and they want $95
an hour for labor !

I know the snap lock pipe (if I'm using the right terminology) is
suppose to be more difficult to work with but have no idea how much so.

Grizzly's piping is outrageously expensive and the sales people at
Oneida I've found to be knowledgeable but pushy. Last I spoke to them,
here's a quote "I'll design your piping for your Grizzly system (I
never told them I bought a Grizzly), but it'll cost you $400". Not a
business winning personality if you know what I mean.

One concern w/ less expensive pipe is for each of the Wye's that go to
the individual tools, I want a sturdy place to be placing the pipe
clamps for the flex hose.

Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

JR


When I get around to it, I plan to use PVC S&D pipe. Stronger, smoother
and cheaper than spiral or snap type pipe. If it's good enough for Mr.
Pentz, it's good enough for me!

I'm amazed at the variation in pricing and options for putting all the
mechanical in for my dust collector in my small shop. I have 6 tools
I'd like to collect from and a 3HP G0441 dust collector from Grizzly.

snip
One concern w/ less expensive pipe is for each of the Wye's that go to
the individual tools, I want a sturdy place to be placing the pipe
clamps for the flex hose.

Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

JR

I have used the PVC pipe for many years. No problems and very easy to make
add, moves and changes. Pictures of my shop with the pipe in place.
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/DavesShop.htm

Dave



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I have used the PVC pipe for many years. No problems and very easy to make
add, moves and changes. Pictures of my shop with the pipe in place.
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/DavesShop.htm

Dave,

How do you seal the joints? Silicone sealant? Duct tape? Something else?

-jav

I recently did some duct work and found that snapping the pipe together
first, then using my sabre saw with a metal blade worked much better than
the snips. Was much quicker and left a smooth cut.

Chris

"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Javier Henderson said:

Nice setup!

What's the diameter of the snap pipe? 8" for the main run, with 6" runs
to each tool?

How do you cut the snap pipe?

If you're smart, you'll measure and cut with tin-snips before snapping
it together.


Greg G.

In article ,
"Algx" wrote:

I recently did some duct work and found that snapping the pipe together
first, then using my sabre saw with a metal blade worked much better than
the snips. Was much quicker and left a smooth cut.

Wow, I wish I had thought of that. I did some metal duct work a while ago
and used up a large supply of colorful vocabulary cutting the pieces. Your
idea sounds like a winner compared to what I went through.

Algx said:

I recently did some duct work and found that snapping the pipe together
first, then using my sabre saw with a metal blade worked much better than
the snips. Was much quicker and left a smooth cut.


Well, it just goes to show - different strokes for different folks.
I had the opposite impression.

FWIW,



"Greg G." wrote in message
.. .
Javier Henderson said:

Nice setup!

What's the diameter of the snap pipe? 8" for the main run, with 6" runs
to each tool?

How do you cut the snap pipe?

If you're smart, you'll measure and cut with tin-snips before snapping
it together.


Greg G.



Greg G.

"Javier Henderson" wrote in message
...
I have used the PVC pipe for many years. No problems and very easy to
make
add, moves and changes. Pictures of my shop with the pipe in place.
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/DavesShop.htm

Dave,

How do you seal the joints? Silicone sealant? Duct tape? Something else?

-jav

DAGS for Pool-Tite Pipe Cement - works great for the DWV PVC
Dave



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On Thu, 10 Nov 2005 20:10:56 -0800, "TeamCasa"
scribbled:

I have used the PVC pipe for many years. No problems and very easy to make
add, moves and changes. Pictures of my shop with the pipe in place.
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/DavesShop.htm

Boy, all that PVC and no 'splosion yet. You are one lucky guy. Or are
you using Michael Baglio's method for grounding?

On a more serious note, what are you using for the clamp racks? The
picture is not very clear.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikiped...ct_Woodworking

"TeamCasa"
scribbled:
I have used the PVC pipe for many years. No problems and very easy to
make
add, moves and changes. Pictures of my shop with the pipe in place.
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/DavesShop.htm


"Luigi Zanasi"
Boy, all that PVC and no 'splosion yet. You are one lucky guy. Or are
you using Michael Baglio's method for grounding?
I hope your kidding. I do not have any grounding and have never had any
more than a light static pop, and that only after a great deal for
sawdust/shavings being sucked up after some turning.


On a more serious note, what are you using for the clamp racks? The
picture is not very clear.

I just welded up some simple angle iron, tubing and some flat steel. If you
want better pictures I posted some on ABPW

Dave



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On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 20:22:27 -0800, "TeamCasa"
scribbled:

"TeamCasa"
scribbled:
I have used the PVC pipe for many years. No problems and very easy to
make
add, moves and changes. Pictures of my shop with the pipe in place.
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/DavesShop.htm


"Luigi Zanasi"
Boy, all that PVC and no 'splosion yet. You are one lucky guy. Or are
you using Michael Baglio's method for grounding?
I hope your kidding. I do not have any grounding and have never had any
more than a light static pop, and that only after a great deal for
sawdust/shavings being sucked up after some turning.

You mean you haven't read Michael's post on how to ground PVC. A
classic! Here it is:
http://groups.google.ca/group/rec.wo...0673fea?hl=en&

:-)
On a more serious note, what are you using for the clamp racks? The
picture is not very clear.

I just welded up some simple angle iron, tubing and some flat steel. If you
want better pictures I posted some on ABPW

Thanks, I hope they show up on my ISP's server. They look pretty neat
and just what I may need.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikiped...ct_Woodworking

"Luigi Zanasi" You mean you haven't read Michael's post on how to ground
PVC. A
classic! Here it is:
http://groups.google.ca/group/rec.wo...0673fea?hl=en&

Thanks, I remember - Now I know what that box of rubber bands is really for!

Dave



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