The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti kick
back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help keep
the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for ever and
has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and see's no reason
too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean cut any thoughts?

Wayne:

Hmm. I presume Dad has all of his fingers.

Kelly Meher (another FWW writer) and is regarded as
a teacher and craftsman, always advises to use
a splitter.

I use a Unisaw at the adult ed. I never cut without a splitter.
I saw the results of a kickback once - no injury, but boy
it was scary enough.

Albeit, there are some, repeat some, cuts that a splitter
doesn't work (like angles and dado's), but that is very
rare and there are ways around that as well.

Vote me as pro-splitter!

MJ Wallace

wayne mak wrote:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti kick
back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help keep
the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for ever and
has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and see's no reason
too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean cut any thoughts?


What makes you think a splitter helps make a clean cut, Wayne? Proper
alignment, good techinique and the proper sharp blade is what provides a
clean cut; not the splitter.

Dave

I agree that is doesn't make a clean cut, but it would seem it might aid in
keeping the stock even with the fence
"David" wrote in message
...
wayne mak wrote:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti
kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help
keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for
ever and has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and
see's no reason too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean
cut any thoughts?
What makes you think a splitter helps make a clean cut, Wayne? Proper
alignment, good techinique and the proper sharp blade is what provides a
clean cut; not the splitter.

Dave

If you are careful you do not need a splitter.

Unless you are an awful lot better than me, you are not careful all the
time; so a splitter is a darn good idea. First serious kickback you get
will make you a believer.

wayne mak said:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti kick
back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help keep
the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for ever and
has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and see's no reason
too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean cut any thoughts?

The 'tongue' you refer to is actually called a splitter. Yours is
also equipped with anti-kickback pawls and blade guard.

It is not used to obtain a clean cut, but rather to protect you from
the tension contained in most wood. As you cut, the wood may close up
on the blade, thereby causing a kickback - which is a nasty, nasty
thing. The pawls may also help in preventing the wood from being
launched at high speed towards the front of the saw. These may or not
be effective, depending on the design, the cut, and the HP of the saw.

I don't use one for some cuts - MDF and sheet goods for instance
usually don't contain wood under tension. But when ripping long
boards, that poorly designed sucker goes on there - every time!

Dado's are also impossible with the splitter mounted.

The fence, blade, and general tune of the saw determines the quality
of the cut.


Greg G.

wayne mak said:

I agree that is doesn't make a clean cut, but it would seem it might aid in
keeping the stock even with the fence

Your technique is what determines that. If you are depending on the
splitter to hold your work against the fence, your technique needs to
improve.


Greg G.

The splitter is intended to keep wood from binding directly behind the blade
causing it to be forced up and over the blade - at a pretty dangerous speed.
When cutting wood, stresses can be relieved that force them to start
moving - it doesn't take much to get a kickback and possible serious injury.

I'll bet if you asked your father how many close calls he's had with
kickback you may reconsider what he's doing as an unsafe practice. Doesn't
mean he can't get away with it but the odds are that it will one day catch
him big time.

You stated he has no reason to use a splitter. Not sure I would care to read
what he has to say for fear of picking up some bad practices that I haven't
already tried on my own. He's either the luckiest guy on earth, has some of
the best wood around or doesn't use his tablesaw very often.

A good splitter is not inconvenient to use and being lazy about using one is
putting yourself at risk unnecessarily.

Bob S.


"wayne mak" wrote in message
...
I agree that is doesn't make a clean cut, but it would seem it might aid in
keeping the stock even with the fence
"David" wrote in message
...
wayne mak wrote:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti
kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would
help keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working
for ever and has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and
see's no reason too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean
cut any thoughts?
What makes you think a splitter helps make a clean cut, Wayne? Proper
alignment, good techinique and the proper sharp blade is what provides a
clean cut; not the splitter.

Dave

I understand how and why it works, my father is now 75 years old and still
uses his unisaw daily, I am not saying what is doing is the best.
"BobS" wrote in message
...
The splitter is intended to keep wood from binding directly behind the
blade causing it to be forced up and over the blade - at a pretty
dangerous speed. When cutting wood, stresses can be relieved that force
them to start moving - it doesn't take much to get a kickback and possible
serious injury.

I'll bet if you asked your father how many close calls he's had with
kickback you may reconsider what he's doing as an unsafe practice. Doesn't
mean he can't get away with it but the odds are that it will one day catch
him big time.

You stated he has no reason to use a splitter. Not sure I would care to
read what he has to say for fear of picking up some bad practices that I
haven't already tried on my own. He's either the luckiest guy on earth,
has some of the best wood around or doesn't use his tablesaw very often.

A good splitter is not inconvenient to use and being lazy about using one
is putting yourself at risk unnecessarily.

Bob S.


"wayne mak" wrote in message
...
I agree that is doesn't make a clean cut, but it would seem it might aid
in keeping the stock even with the fence
"David" wrote in message
...
wayne mak wrote:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti
kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would
help keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working
for ever and has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one
and see's no reason too. But it seems to me that it would help make a
clean cut any thoughts?
What makes you think a splitter helps make a clean cut, Wayne? Proper
alignment, good techinique and the proper sharp blade is what provides a
clean cut; not the splitter.

Dave

wayne mak wrote:

I agree that is doesn't make a clean cut, but it would seem it might aid in
keeping the stock even with the fence
"David" wrote in message
...

wayne mak wrote:


The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti
kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help
keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for
ever and has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and
see's no reason too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean
cut any thoughts?

What makes you think a splitter helps make a clean cut, Wayne? Proper
alignment, good techinique and the proper sharp blade is what provides a
clean cut; not the splitter.

Dave

Relying on the splitter to keep the stock even with the fence is worse
than bad techinque; it doesn't even WORK. Try doing a glue line rip
with sloppy technique just because you have a splitter. The results will
suck.

Dave

wayne mak (in ) said:

| The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to
| split/anti kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would
| seem it would help keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has
| been wood working for ever and has written books for fine wood
| working doesn't use one and see's no reason too. But it seems to me
| that it would help make a clean cut any thoughts?

I pop mine up when ripping - not to hold work against the fence (I use
a featherboard /and/ board buddies for that), but rather to avoid
having a kerf close slightly and grab the blade - which would result
in kickback.

The splitter gets popped back down when I'm cross-cutting - it gets in
the way of my sled.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

There have been quite a few kickback posts during the past month or two. It
is something you do not want to experience if you can avoid it. The
splitter, with kickpack pawls helps a lot.

RonB

If you are careful you do not need a splitter.

That was what I thought until I was cutting some 6/4 oak and it bent
right back into itself as it came out of the blade. I saw it happen and
shut the saw off when it was a few inches beyond the blade, and that
blade came to a stop like it had disc brakes. I had to pull the kerf
apart to get it off. I made a splitter right then and there out of the
blade for an old combination square, and the only time I take it out is
when I cut dados etc.

An old combo square blade works great, by the way. It's just about
exactly 1/8 thick.

On Thu, 3 Nov 2005 18:05:40 -0500, "wayne mak"
wrote:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti kick
back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help keep
the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for ever and
has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and see's no reason
too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean cut any thoughts?



I've been working with tablesaws most of my adult life. the first time
I cut on one with a splitter was a couple of years ago when I added
one to my saw.

so.

it is entirely possible to work safely without one.
a poorly set splitter is more dangerous than no splitter.
a poorly set splitter is less accurate than no splitter.
a well set splitter helps resist kickback.
a well set splitter helps keep the wood from drifting away from the
fence.
a splitter that is inconvenient to install and remove will soon be
gathering dust in a dark corner.
a pin in the throat plate works well and is easy to set up and use.

Wayne,

One has to wonder. Your father has written several books (published byTauton
Press) and in the introduction of "Making Heirloom Toys" he makes the
following statement:

"The projects represent various levels of difficulty, but all require strict
attention to safety. Cutting and drilling small pieces can present serious
safety hazards, and throughout the book I've stressed the importance of
using jigs, fixtures and safe practices to minimize the risk of injury....."

Since I've not read the book, perhaps his comments don't include the
tablesaw -or- if he's always just ripping short lengths for toys, there may
no need for a splitter.
In any case, your father is a lucky man and I don't just mean about not
getting any kickbacks but for still being active in a hobby he obviously
loves doing, writing about it and for having a son that isn't nagging him
about his methods of work (although you should...;-)

You've read the collective comments of the Wreck and now it's your decision
to use a splitter or not. The one you have may be a POS and as I recall,
you're a machinist and have the tools to make one. If you like, I could
post some pictures of what the add-on splitter from Beismeyer looks like for
a Jet cabinet saw and you could then design one for your Uni or spend about
$130 to purchase one. Making one is definitely within your equipment range
and skill set from what I recall of the pictures of your shop.

If you want pics, I can email them to the address you posted. What file size
would you like for each picture?

Bob S.



"wayne mak" wrote in message
...
I understand how and why it works, my father is now 75 years old and still
uses his unisaw daily, I am not saying what is doing is the best.
"BobS" wrote in message
...
The splitter is intended to keep wood from binding directly behind the
blade causing it to be forced up and over the blade - at a pretty
dangerous speed. When cutting wood, stresses can be relieved that force
them to start moving - it doesn't take much to get a kickback and
possible serious injury.

I'll bet if you asked your father how many close calls he's had with
kickback you may reconsider what he's doing as an unsafe practice.
Doesn't mean he can't get away with it but the odds are that it will one
day catch him big time.

You stated he has no reason to use a splitter. Not sure I would care to
read what he has to say for fear of picking up some bad practices that I
haven't already tried on my own. He's either the luckiest guy on earth,
has some of the best wood around or doesn't use his tablesaw very often.

A good splitter is not inconvenient to use and being lazy about using one
is putting yourself at risk unnecessarily.

Bob S.


"wayne mak" wrote in message
...
I agree that is doesn't make a clean cut, but it would seem it might aid
in keeping the stock even with the fence
"David" wrote in message
...
wayne mak wrote:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti
kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would
help keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working
for ever and has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one
and see's no reason too. But it seems to me that it would help make a
clean cut any thoughts?
What makes you think a splitter helps make a clean cut, Wayne? Proper
alignment, good techinique and the proper sharp blade is what provides
a clean cut; not the splitter.

Dave

That would be great if you could send pictures, my email will take a good
size file. I will be out of town after the morning so my PC won't be
downloading for a week. Much of what my father does is very accurate and
smaller parts, the detal in his work is as good as it gets.
"BobS" wrote in message
.. .
Wayne,

One has to wonder. Your father has written several books (published
byTauton Press) and in the introduction of "Making Heirloom Toys" he makes
the following statement:

"The projects represent various levels of difficulty, but all require
strict attention to safety. Cutting and drilling small pieces can present
serious safety hazards, and throughout the book I've stressed the
importance of using jigs, fixtures and safe practices to minimize the risk
of injury....."

Since I've not read the book, perhaps his comments don't include the
tablesaw -or- if he's always just ripping short lengths for toys, there
may no need for a splitter.
In any case, your father is a lucky man and I don't just mean about not
getting any kickbacks but for still being active in a hobby he obviously
loves doing, writing about it and for having a son that isn't nagging him
about his methods of work (although you should...;-)

You've read the collective comments of the Wreck and now it's your
decision to use a splitter or not. The one you have may be a POS and as I
recall, you're a machinist and have the tools to make one. If you like, I
could post some pictures of what the add-on splitter from Beismeyer looks
like for a Jet cabinet saw and you could then design one for your Uni or
spend about $130 to purchase one. Making one is definitely within your
equipment range and skill set from what I recall of the pictures of your
shop.

If you want pics, I can email them to the address you posted. What file
size would you like for each picture?

Bob S.



"wayne mak" wrote in message
...
I understand how and why it works, my father is now 75 years old and still
uses his unisaw daily, I am not saying what is doing is the best.
"BobS" wrote in message
...
The splitter is intended to keep wood from binding directly behind the
blade causing it to be forced up and over the blade - at a pretty
dangerous speed. When cutting wood, stresses can be relieved that force
them to start moving - it doesn't take much to get a kickback and
possible serious injury.

I'll bet if you asked your father how many close calls he's had with
kickback you may reconsider what he's doing as an unsafe practice.
Doesn't mean he can't get away with it but the odds are that it will one
day catch him big time.

You stated he has no reason to use a splitter. Not sure I would care to
read what he has to say for fear of picking up some bad practices that I
haven't already tried on my own. He's either the luckiest guy on earth,
has some of the best wood around or doesn't use his tablesaw very often.

A good splitter is not inconvenient to use and being lazy about using
one is putting yourself at risk unnecessarily.

Bob S.


"wayne mak" wrote in message
...
I agree that is doesn't make a clean cut, but it would seem it might aid
in keeping the stock even with the fence
"David" wrote in message
...
wayne mak wrote:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to
split/anti kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would
seem it would help keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has
been wood working for ever and has written books for fine wood
working doesn't use one and see's no reason too. But it seems to me
that it would help make a clean cut any thoughts?
What makes you think a splitter helps make a clean cut, Wayne? Proper
alignment, good techinique and the proper sharp blade is what provides
a clean cut; not the splitter.

Dave

Ok this sounds like a peice of table saw EQ I need to know about...can
anyone send me a link to a page where I can look at one, I want to advoid
kickback when I get a my table saw and anything to help do that I'm all for.
Back in highschool my shop teacher actully demastrated kick backs to us and
I know I sure the heck would not want to be behind that thing (hence why you
stand to the side and not directly behind the wood)
thanks
Deborah

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 3 Nov 2005 18:05:40 -0500, "wayne mak"
wrote:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti
kick
back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help keep
the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for ever and
has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and see's no
reason
too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean cut any thoughts?



I've been working with tablesaws most of my adult life. the first time
I cut on one with a splitter was a couple of years ago when I added
one to my saw.

so.

it is entirely possible to work safely without one.
a poorly set splitter is more dangerous than no splitter.
a poorly set splitter is less accurate than no splitter.
a well set splitter helps resist kickback.
a well set splitter helps keep the wood from drifting away from the
fence.
a splitter that is inconvenient to install and remove will soon be
gathering dust in a dark corner.
a pin in the throat plate works well and is easy to set up and use.

"David" wrote in message
...
wayne mak wrote:


What makes you think a splitter helps make a clean cut, Wayne? Proper
alignment, good techinique and the proper sharp blade is what provides a
clean cut; not the splitter.

Dave

Send a perfectly flat, straight, and case hardened piece of wood through
and you will see how a splitter keeps the piece of wood from closing back up
on the blade. With out a splitter the back side of the blades begins to cut
again leaving a rough edge.

"Deborah Kelly" wrote in message
...
Ok this sounds like a peice of table saw EQ I need to know about...can
anyone send me a link to a page where I can look at one, I want to advoid
kickback when I get a my table saw and anything to help do that I'm all
for. Back in highschool my shop teacher actully demastrated kick backs to
us and I know I sure the heck would not want to be behind that thing
(hence why you stand to the side and not directly behind the wood)
thanks
Deborah

In the USA most any new TS will include a splitter as an integral part of
the blade guard. That said, I would suggest a better one.

A splitter, as well as a riving knife, is intended to do one
thing - keep the kerf from closing and making contact
with the teeth at the back of the blade coming up out
of the saw table top, being lifted up off the table and
into the teeth near the top of the blade. From there
the speed of the part goes to about 150 mph and the
direction can be anyone's guess.

A splitter typically is close to the back of the blade
WHEN THE BLADE IS SET TO ITS MAXIMUM HEIGHT.
But as the blade is lowered, the distance between the
spliiter and the rear teeth increases. When cutting
1/2" - 3/4" stock, which are what most of us
typically are working with, there can be several
inches between the splitter and the rear teeth. In
that situation, the splitter isn't doing what it's
supposed to do at the beginning of the cut.

As for "anti-kickback pawls" they're typically
more of a PITA and less of a "safety device".

There are several types of kickback and causes.
If you understand what does what you can take
the steps you deem necessary to minimize
kickback.

So here's some info that should give you a
good start on what you need to know about
the causes of kickback. Some are obvious
and some aren't. A cupped, twisted or
bowed piece of wood can be far more
dangerous than no splitter or riving knife.

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/KickBack1.html

charlie b

(for the regulars, sorry about posting the
url again - but if it prevents one injury ...)

"wayne mak" wrote in
:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti
kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would
help keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working
for ever and has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one
and see's no reason too. But it seems to me that it would help make a
clean cut any thoughts?



The splitter shouldn't have much to do with cut quality, but it is an
excellent safety device. I always use a splitter and blade guard whenever
possible.

On Thu, 3 Nov 2005 22:56:02 -0600, "Deborah Kelly"
wrote:

Ok this sounds like a peice of table saw EQ I need to know about...can
anyone send me a link to a page where I can look at one, I want to advoid
kickback when I get a my table saw and anything to help do that I'm all for.
Back in highschool my shop teacher actully demastrated kick backs to us and
I know I sure the heck would not want to be behind that thing (hence why you
stand to the side and not directly behind the wood)
thanks
Deborah



spent a bit of time in the archives, but didn't find what I was
looking for. but this is close:
http://www.homestead.com/ValRoseWoodWorks/Splitter.html

and this is good for general reading:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/search?group=rec.woodworking&q=pin+splitter&qt_g=1 &searchnow=Search+this+group
aka:
http://tinyurl.com/7jtf3


some good reading about saw safety:
http://www.amgron.clara.net/circular.../accidents.htm
although it's in british rather than proper 'ol amurican english...

here's a website that has a pretty good pictu
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip060900ws.html
of what Unisaw A100 (keeter) is describing:

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Unisaw A100

The following presumes you have a right tilting Delta
Unisaw. Please make the necessary adjustments for your make
of saw, insert thickness and blade tilt direction.

How To Make A Zero Clearance Insert With Splitter:

1) Go to Home Depot/Lowes and give an eye up to the stack
of 1/2" MDF.

2) Find a sheet that hasn't been dinged by the fork lift
tines during the twice weekly Warehouse Rodeo and Jousting
Championship.

3) Wrestle the sheet off and onto one of the (insert color
here) flat carts.

4) Wheel it back to the nice man at the Safety Speed-Cut
panel saw.

5) Instruct him to make cross cuts at about 32". You may
choose to use another size(s). Exercise this option now.

6) Load the cut sheets back onto the cart, stand in line,
let everyone know how peeved you are that you are being made
to stand in line, make an ass of yourself and then pay the
nice people at the check out.

7) When back at the shop set aside one piece for a table
saw sled to be built later. Set another aside for future
projects or jigs and fixtures.

8) With the last piece begin ripping the sheet into pieces
1/16"ish wider than your table saw blade insert.

9) Cross cut the pieces 1/16"ish longer than your insert.

10) Make a template. Here's where people usually chime in
to just use your present insert to make the new inserts. I
prefer to make a template for reasons that will be made
known shortly.

11) Start with your OEM insert and trace a line around it
onto one of the MDF blanks.

12) Band saw (jig saw) the rounded ends off.

13) Go back to Home Depot/Lowes and buy some 3M (Scotch)
No. 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape. It has a proper amount of
tackiness but isn't so think that the template/item being
cut will shift thus spoiling the cut.

14) Double face tape the MDF to the OEM insert with
4-pieces of tape 1" long. Press together using hand
pressure.

15) Load router table with router bit having a bearing on
top. Raise bit until the cutter is a red cubic hair or so
above the thickness of the MDF.

16) Run the MDF/OEM insert sandwich into the bit and trim
off all edges and ends.

17) Go back to Home Depot/Lowes and purchase a box of 1/2-8
flat head Phillips sheet metal screws.

18) Using the OEM insert to locate, drill and countersink
the face of your template for four of these screws.

19) Insert screws so that points just peek out by 1/32"ish.

20) Using this template take another of the MDF blanks and
press the pointy end screw side onto the blank.

21) Rout off the excess as you did above with the template
and OEM insert.

22) Rinse and repeat until all blanks are routed.

23) Drill and countersink the face of the MDF insert for
leveling screws. Step 20 will have pre-located these for
you. Insert 1/2-8 flat head Phillips screws into freshly
drilled and countersunk holes so tips are just coming
through.

24) Into the edge of each template drill and countersink a
hole for a 3/4" course thread drywall screw of other screw
of your choosing. Do the same with one screw on the end of
the MDF insert. Be sure to oversize this hole so the screw
does not split the MDF. This screw hole is not structural.

25) Insert screws into freshly drilled and countersunk
holes.

26) Place MDF insert into blade opening in table saw.
Check for fit. Adjust leveling screws so insert is flush
with the saw table. Adjust the edge screws in or out for
perfect snug fit.

26) Repeat the above with three blanks for every saw blade
you own, i.e., you have four blades then fit up twelve
inserts.

27) Using your dado set place onto the saw arbor the two
outside cutters.

28) Insert MDF insert into blade opening and park the saw
fence over it but to the wide side away from the line of the
dado set below.

29) Raise dado set until the cutters are just starting to
bulge through the face of the MDF insert.

30) Repeat until all inserts are done.

31) Replace dado cutters with your saw blade and repeat the
raising through though this time raise the blade as high as
it will go.

32) Carefully measure from the fence side face of the saw
blade to the fence side edge of the insert and set saw fence
at that setting.

33) Feed one of the inserts into the saw blade for 1 1/2".
Stop and with draw.

34) Set up porty planer and begin planing stock to a
thickness that matches the kerf made in the last step.
Note: Don't presume that you only need to plane the wood to
the advertised blade kerf unless your saw has zero run out.

35) Cut and fit the freshly planed stock into the kerf.
Let it stick out a minimum of 1/4" plus the thickness of
whatever material you expect to be cutting, i.e., for 3/4"
material you will want this to stand 1".

36) Glue freshly trimmed, freshly planed stock into kerf
slot in the MDF insert. When dry, insert MDF insert into
saw blade opening and rip a piece of wood. Check to see
that there is no gap between the wood and the freshly glued,
freshly trimmed, freshly planed stock.

37) Repeat until all inserts for all inserts are done.

38) Set aside balance of insert blanks to be used at a
later date or for when you set up for dado cutting.

39) Post your horrible experience at Home Depot/Lowes on
rec.woodorking and make an ass of yourself.

UA100

charlie b said:

A splitter, as well as a riving knife, is intended to do one
thing - keep the kerf from closing and making contact
with the teeth at the back of the blade coming up out
of the saw table top, being lifted up off the table and
into the teeth near the top of the blade. From there
the speed of the part goes to about 150 mph and the
direction can be anyone's guess.

It is my understanding that many European machines come with riving
knives that raise and lower with the blade to retain optimal spacing.
The guard is a separate entity. But the difference in name is more of
a regional 'he says - she says' difference than a physical one.

Correct?

As for "anti-kickback pawls" they're typically
more of a PITA and less of a "safety device".

And if the pawls are not sharp enough to dig into the wood, or strong
enough to restrain the piece against 3 HP of throbbing Baldor, they
are useless anyway.

(for the regulars, sorry about posting the
url again - but if it prevents one injury ...)

More thorough information on these facts should probably be given
emphasis in a new machine's instruction manual, rather than on some
outdated, dysfunctional OEM splitter. It's Christmas time - lot's of
new table saws and lots of new owners... We don't want to kill off
any of next years tool shoppers...

Simply meeting some UL/CSA standard as to the existence of a blade
guard doesn't equate into a useable OR well designed feature. What it
DOES indicate is that MFG's designed some minimal, crappy contraption
that was needed to barely pass spec 20 years ago, and hasn't put one
iota of though into it since.

Let's take a poll - how many people here like OR use the guard that
with their saw? A show of hands, please...


Greg G.

"BobS" wrote

........................... if he's always just ripping short lengths for
toys, there may
no need for a splitter.

This is when the risk of a kickback is very high.

Once the leading edge of the workpiece passes the centre of the blade, there
is a possibility that even friction with the saw's plate could cause
ejection.

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

"wayne mak" wrote

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti
kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help
keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for ever
and has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and see's no
reason too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean cut any
thoughts?

The purpose of the riving knife is explained on my web site.

Please look at Circular Sawbench Safety - Riving Knife.

The 'tongue' might be a splitter, a less effecive device that can allow too
great a gap between itself and the up-running teeth.

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

"Deborah Kelly" writes:

Ok this sounds like a peice of table saw EQ I need to know
about...can anyone send me a link to a page where I can look at one,
I want to advoid kickback when I get a my table saw and anything to
help do that I'm all for.

I use a MJ Splitter, which installs into a zero clearance insert.

http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm

The regular is $20, thin kerf version is $25.
AVailable at Woodcraft, etc.

--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

On Fri, 4 Nov 2005 08:09:10 -0000, "Jeff Gorman"
wrote:


"wayne mak" wrote

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti
kick back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help
keep the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for ever
and has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and see's no
reason too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean cut any
thoughts?

The purpose of the riving knife is explained on my web site.

Please look at Circular Sawbench Safety - Riving Knife.

The 'tongue' might be a splitter, a less effecive device that can allow too
great a gap between itself and the up-running teeth.

Jeff G


yep, riving knives are better than splitters.

however, there are a large number of very fine old tablesaws in north
america for which riving knives are not an option. on my 40 year old
powermatic it's not a matter of what can be purchased commercially-
there really is no way to mount one.

a homemade splitter is better than no splitter, and really does go a
long way to prevent kickback.

Mine is removed ONLY for non through cuts. My BT3000 came with riving
knife and blade guard. I've had case hardened wood clamp the riving
knife which was about 3/16" from spinning teeth hard enough to stop
forward movement. It is curved matching 10 blade shape.

On Fri, 04 Nov 2005 02:45:01 -0500, Greg wrote:

Let's take a poll - how many people here like OR use the guard that
with their saw? A show of hands, please...

On Thu, 3 Nov 2005 18:05:40 -0500, "wayne mak"
wrote:

The Unisaw that I bought has the tongue behind the blade to split/anti kick
back the wood, how many people use this? It would seem it would help keep
the wood against the fence. My dad who has been wood working for ever and
has written books for fine wood working doesn't use one and see's no reason
too. But it seems to me that it would help make a clean cut any thoughts?


FYI, I have a set of shop made zero clearance throat plates for
various configurations. Rather than worrying about placing and
removing the splitter I swap out a throat plate with a splitter glued
in (1/8 strip of maple) and one without. Doesn't take long at all.

But lookinig over the site at
http://www.homestead.com/ValRoseWoodWorks/Splitter.html I think I am
going to rethink what I do.