I am planning to put a black walnut cap on a knee wall in a shower/
bath stall. The wood won't get much direct water, but will get wet
enough to require a poly finish. I would like to treat with tung oil
first. Will poly apply over tung oil?

Doug wrote:

I am planning to put a black walnut cap on a knee wall in a shower/
bath stall. The wood won't get much direct water, but will get wet
enough to require a poly finish. I would like to treat with tung oil
first. Will poly apply over tung oil?

My question to you is why would you do that?

"Doug" wrote in message
ups.com...
I am planning to put a black walnut cap on a knee wall in a shower/
bath stall. The wood won't get much direct water, but will get wet
enough to require a poly finish. I would like to treat with tung oil
first. Will poly apply over tung oil?


Absolutely.

Doug, you will need to make sure that the oil is thoroughly cured before
using poly. May take some weeks depending on temperature.

Sure, but why?

I want to do that because I really like the color of black walnut when
it is treated with tung oil, but need the protection of polly. Are
there other suggestions? For getting both the look and the protection?

"Doug" wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to do that because I really like the color of black walnut when
it is treated with tung oil, but need the protection of polly. Are
there other suggestions? For getting both the look and the protection?

No, but think about linseed oil. It is cheaper and gives a deeper effect.
Besides, most "tung" has no tung oil in it. At least with BLO you know what
you are getting.

Toller wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to do that because I really like the color of black walnut when
it is treated with tung oil, but need the protection of polly. Are
there other suggestions? For getting both the look and the protection?

No, but think about linseed oil. It is cheaper and gives a deeper effect.
Besides, most "tung" has no tung oil in it. At least with BLO you know what
you are getting.

I think you are confusing 'tung oil finishes' with tung oil and even
then I am skeptical that _most_ have _none_ in them, though I have
no doubt that most have lots of something else in them.

--

FF

wrote in message
oups.com...

Toller wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to do that because I really like the color of black walnut when
it is treated with tung oil, but need the protection of polly. Are
there other suggestions? For getting both the look and the protection?

No, but think about linseed oil. It is cheaper and gives a deeper
effect.
Besides, most "tung" has no tung oil in it. At least with BLO you know
what
you are getting.

I think you are confusing 'tung oil finishes' with tung oil and even
then I am skeptical that _most_ have _none_ in them, though I have
no doubt that most have lots of something else in them.

Okay, "most" should have been "many".
I also assumed that he meant tung oil finish when he said tung oil; that is
probably a safe assumption considering the question. Have you priced pure
tung oil recently?

"Doug" wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to do that because I really like the color of black walnut when
it is treated with tung oil, but need the protection of polly. Are
there other suggestions? For getting both the look and the protection?


The color will be about the same with linseed oil, and since oil-based poly
will contain it, skip one stage. Spar varnish will be even longer in oil
than regular, if you want to use it. Softer, but more flexible finish.

The color will be about the same with linseed oil, and since oil-based
poly
will contain it, skip one stage.

That simply isn't true.
Just last week I was experimenting with different materials to bring out the
best in some pommele bubinga. I found that BLO and poly was distinctly
richer than just poly.

"Toller" wrote in message
...

The color will be about the same with linseed oil, and since oil-based
poly
will contain it, skip one stage.

That simply isn't true.
Just last week I was experimenting with different materials to bring out
the best in some pommele bubinga. I found that BLO and poly was
distinctly richer than just poly.


Must be your house. Oil works the same as oil at mine.

Toller wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

Toller wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to do that because I really like the color of black walnut when
it is treated with tung oil, but need the protection of polly. Are
there other suggestions? For getting both the look and the protection?

No, but think about linseed oil. It is cheaper and gives a deeper
effect.
Besides, most "tung" has no tung oil in it. At least with BLO you know
what
you are getting.

I think you are confusing 'tung oil finishes' with tung oil and even
then I am skeptical that _most_ have _none_ in them, though I have
no doubt that most have lots of something else in them.

Okay, "most" should have been "many".
I also assumed that he meant tung oil finish when he said tung oil; that is
probably a safe assumption considering the question. Have you priced pure
tung oil recently?

I tend to be overly literal so when I read "tung oil" I tend to
think "tung oil" but You're right, probably more often than not
people using a "tung oil finish" may simply call it "tung oil"

A little tung oil goes a long way which is good becuase it is
pretty expensive compared to Linseed oil. OTOH my experience
with _boiled_ linsed oil has been that it retains a greasy
feel for months, even if I add Japan drier to it. That, and
it darkens afterwards. Those old planes and clamps in antique
shops are black, I think, because they were treated with linseed
oil way back when. The transitional planes, which were vanished,
typically are much lighter.

Of course I doubt that the kneeboard in his shower is going to
last a hundred years.

--

FF

On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 10:25:54 -0400, "George" George@least wrote:


"Toller" wrote in message
...

The color will be about the same with linseed oil, and since oil-based
poly
will contain it, skip one stage.

That simply isn't true.
Just last week I was experimenting with different materials to bring out
the best in some pommele bubinga. I found that BLO and poly was
distinctly richer than just poly.


Must be your house. Oil works the same as oil at mine.



an oil finish that penetrates, like tung or BLO will look different
from an oil film finish like varnish or poly. the penetrating oil will
let light travel a bit further into the wood, giving depth to the
piece.

wrote in message
...


an oil finish that penetrates, like tung or BLO will look different
from an oil film finish like varnish or poly. the penetrating oil will
let light travel a bit further into the wood, giving depth to the
piece.


Aw, c'mon. You can't look any deeper than the surface no matter what you
put on it, unless you're Superman. Since the oil forms only a negligible
film , the only thing you gain is less surface scatter as the oil soaks and
reduces the scatter of the thinnest of the thin _translucent_ areas around
the pores. Notice that the color looks deeper when the oil is wet, and
becomes more dull - scatters more light - when it penetrates and cures.

What you want is a finish which remains on the surface, as the wet oil did,
forming a film which reduces scatter. That's the basic principle of
finishing, to gain a smooth surface from what wasn't. You may see glare or
you may see through. What you don't see is halfway there.

Unless you're using varnish with additives to scatter the light.

Yes. What about it?

"Toller" wrote in message
...
Have you priced pure
tung oil recently?