Got the PM66 yesterday -- got it up and operating by yesterday eve.
Interesting observation is that while it costs bunch more than my old Ridgid
contractor saw, it is a very simple machine in comparison. Only took me 2
hours to assemble at a relaxed pace, the ridgid took me 4-5 hours and had a
bunch more little parts

Got a question on care of the new shiny top (gotta love the mirror finish !)
In the manual they talk about the old standby -- paste wax, but they also
mention talcum power and a blackboard eraser. They claim the talcum will
keep the mirror finish, build up water resistance and fill the pores in the
cast iron as well as provide a slick surface. Seems like a good plan -- has
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

Inquiring minds....

Caustic baby powder... Right.

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
. ..
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to
mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

Inquiring minds....

CW wrote:

Caustic baby powder... Right.

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
. ..

anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to

mind

is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

Inquiring minds....





LOL! yeah, I'm sure that baby powder regularly is formulated with all
sorts of toxins and caustic ingredients!

Dave

On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 02:19:58 GMT, "CW" wrote:

Caustic baby powder... Right.

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to
mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

Inquiring minds....



Caustic? Talc isn't particularly harsh. It does attract moisture, I
believe.
PK

On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 02:19:58 GMT, "CW" wrote:

Caustic baby powder... Right.


I suspect that was not the OP's thoughts. The possibility that the baby
talc may also be loaded with other hygroscopic ingredients (reasonable for
where you are going to put baby powder) might be of concern.



"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to
mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

Inquiring minds....






+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Mark & Juanita wrote:
On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 02:19:58 GMT, "CW" wrote:

Caustic baby powder... Right.


I suspect that was not the OP's thoughts. The possibility that the baby
talc may also be loaded with other hygroscopic ingredients (reasonable for
where you are going to put baby powder) might be of concern.


Seesh!

Talcum powder is powdered talc, a soft rock primarily composed
of magnesium tetrasilicate. It protects iron from rusting via
electrowhateveritscalled protection, similar to galvanizing.
There is a nearly rust free iron column sitting in the middle
of a villiage soemwhere in India that evidently has been
protected by magnesium compounds in the soil and traces of
the same left on its surface from when it was cast for a
few hundred years now.

I've used talcum powder on a drill press, after four years
still no rust.

Any baby powder or other powder will have the ingredients on
the friggin' label. Just READ it for crying out loud. A
trace of fragrance won't hurt your saw.

Some (maybe most) BABY powders these days is cornstarch,
don't use those.

--

FF

wrote:
Mark & Juanita wrote:
=20
On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 02:19:58 GMT, "CW" wrote:


Caustic baby powder... Right.


I suspect that was not the OP's thoughts. The possibility that the b=
aby
talc may also be loaded with other hygroscopic ingredients (reasonable =
for
where you are going to put baby powder) might be of concern.

=20
=20
Seesh!
=20
Talcum powder is powdered talc, a soft rock primarily composed
of magnesium tetrasilicate. It protects iron from rusting via
electrowhateveritscalled protection, similar to galvanizing.
There is a nearly rust free iron column sitting in the middle
of a villiage soemwhere in India that evidently has been
protected by magnesium compounds in the soil and traces of
the same left on its surface from when it was cast for a
few hundred years now.
=20
I've used talcum powder on a drill press, after four years
still no rust.
=20
Any baby powder or other powder will have the ingredients on
the friggin' label. Just READ it for crying out loud. A
trace of fragrance won't hurt your saw.
=20
Some (maybe most) BABY powders these days is cornstarch,
don't use those.
=20


And sometimes used in steel manufacturing after the cleaning process...

RTFM? Whatever for?


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

"CW" wrote in message
ink.net...
Caustic baby powder... Right.

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
. ..
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to
mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

Inquiring minds....

The know-it-all mind hasn't checked to find a growing body of evidence that
talc is not the best choice for slicking the baby's butt.

Seems folks using rubber gloves every day are not thrilled about inhaling
silicates either. Of course what do they know - they're in medicine.

George wrote:
Seems folks using rubber gloves every day are not thrilled about inhaling
silicates either. Of course what do they know - they're in medicine.


They did away with powdered gloves in the hospital for the same reason they got
rid of peanut butter in the schools: every now and then, a [erson may exist
who's allergic to it. Rather than have them suffer the maddening itch, they
deprived us of a useful tool.

I can pull on an undersized glove if it's powdered. The unpowdered ones?
Forget it.... I can barely pull on a properly sized one if I've been pushing
hard and gotten sweaty.

To my way of thinking, it's all politically correct horse****. Fits right in
there with "deferred success" for the lackluster student.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
om...
George wrote:
Seems folks using rubber gloves every day are not thrilled about inhaling
silicates either. Of course what do they know - they're in medicine.


They did away with powdered gloves in the hospital for the same reason
they got rid of peanut butter in the schools: every now and then, a [erson
may exist who's allergic to it. Rather than have them suffer the
maddening itch, they deprived us of a useful tool.

To my way of thinking, it's all politically correct horse****. Fits right
in there with "deferred success" for the lackluster student.

Not what they said in ours, though latex sensitivity is not that uncommon.

Silicates are the stuff of - silicosis - which was a good enough reason to
minimize exposure.

Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:
George wrote:
Seems folks using rubber gloves every day are not thrilled about inhaling
silicates either. Of course what do they know - they're in medicine.


They did away with powdered gloves in the hospital for the same reason they got
rid of peanut butter in the schools: every now and then, a [erson may exist
who's allergic to it. Rather than have them suffer the maddening itch, they
deprived us of a useful tool.

No one is stopping you from powdering your gloves yourself, right?

I think you'll find that allergies to the latex are much more common,
than alergies to talc which is one why there are gloves available
made from other materials and the reasons for not powdering is
primarily to prevent respiratory exposure to the poweered talc
under the supposition that silicosis is cumulative in its damage.

Although ISTR there is also an association between dermal
exposure to magnesium tetrasilicate and some cancers.
(After all, it isn't raw bear meat).

I don't know why there are no gloves available with corn-
starch-base powders. Maybe a shelf-life problem?

However, in the case of baby powder, some caregivers are sloppy
about how they dust the baby. Breathing any insoluable mineral
dust is bad for the lungs and there have been actual infant fatalities
reported, which may only be a small number of the actual fatalities,
plus there may be who know how many non-fatal injuries to the
developing lungs from silicosis.


I can pull on an undersized glove if it's powdered. The unpowdered ones?
Forget it.... I can barely pull on a properly sized one if I've been pushing
hard and gotten sweaty.

Have you considered powdering them yourself? If you are careful,
you can keep the powder on the inside an avoid contaminating
your wood, something not possible with pre-powdered glvoes.


To my way of thinking, it's all politically correct horse****. Fits right in
there with "deferred success" for the lackluster student.


Talc, being as natural as horse**** would seem to me to be very
politically incorrect.

I think if you study this specific issue more you will learn more.
It may not change your conclusion, but may change the reasons by
which you justify it. IMHO, 'politically indorrect' is a catch-
all term signifying an unwillingness to address the real (even
if ill-conceived) reasoning behind such decisions.

--

FF

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
. ..
Got the PM66 yesterday -- got it up and operating by yesterday eve.
Interesting observation is that while it costs bunch more than my old
Ridgid
contractor saw, it is a very simple machine in comparison. Only took me 2
hours to assemble at a relaxed pace, the ridgid took me 4-5 hours and had
a
bunch more little parts

Got a question on care of the new shiny top (gotta love the mirror finish
!)
In the manual they talk about the old standby -- paste wax, but they also
mention talcum power and a blackboard eraser. They claim the talcum will
keep the mirror finish, build up water resistance and fill the pores in
the
cast iron as well as provide a slick surface. Seems like a good plan --
has
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to
mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

Inquiring minds....

Good Luck, with use it is bound to be less than perfect sooner than later.
I use TopCote.

"Sam the Cat" writes:


[...]

mention talcum power and a blackboard eraser. They claim the talcum will
keep the mirror finish, build up water resistance and fill the pores in the
cast iron as well as provide a slick surface. Seems like a good plan -- has
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

At a pottery supply store you might get talcum without any additives
at good prices.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

Osco (Drug store chain) label says Talc, fragrance.

On Sun, 04 Sep 2005 21:28:53 +0200, Juergen Hannappel
wrote:

"Sam the Cat" writes:


[...]

mention talcum power and a blackboard eraser. They claim the talcum will
keep the mirror finish, build up water resistance and fill the pores in the
cast iron as well as provide a slick surface. Seems like a good plan -- has
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

At a pottery supply store you might get talcum without any additives
at good prices.

I tried that - rust within a month.

My best advise is to go out and get some 2000 grit wet or dry and buff
the mirror surface with that - get rid of the mirror finish so you
don't have to worry about it anymore.



On Sat, 3 Sep 2005 19:59:26 -0400, "Sam the Cat"
wrote:

Got the PM66 yesterday -- got it up and operating by yesterday eve.
Interesting observation is that while it costs bunch more than my old Ridgid
contractor saw, it is a very simple machine in comparison. Only took me 2
hours to assemble at a relaxed pace, the ridgid took me 4-5 hours and had a
bunch more little parts

Got a question on care of the new shiny top (gotta love the mirror finish !)
In the manual they talk about the old standby -- paste wax, but they also
mention talcum power and a blackboard eraser. They claim the talcum will
keep the mirror finish, build up water resistance and fill the pores in the
cast iron as well as provide a slick surface. Seems like a good plan -- has
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

Inquiring minds....

I have been using talcum powder for many years. I just use the generic brand
at the drug store. It works really well and there is not danger of wax being
left on the wood to spoil a finish. I also no longer about the wax soaked
rags being in the shop.
max

I tried that - rust within a month.

My best advise is to go out and get some 2000 grit wet or dry and buff
the mirror surface with that - get rid of the mirror finish so you
don't have to worry about it anymore.



On Sat, 3 Sep 2005 19:59:26 -0400, "Sam the Cat"
wrote:

Got the PM66 yesterday -- got it up and operating by yesterday eve.
Interesting observation is that while it costs bunch more than my old Ridgid
contractor saw, it is a very simple machine in comparison. Only took me 2
hours to assemble at a relaxed pace, the ridgid took me 4-5 hours and had a
bunch more little parts

Got a question on care of the new shiny top (gotta love the mirror finish !)
In the manual they talk about the old standby -- paste wax, but they also
mention talcum power and a blackboard eraser. They claim the talcum will
keep the mirror finish, build up water resistance and fill the pores in the
cast iron as well as provide a slick surface. Seems like a good plan -- has
anybody used talcum power ? If so what brand -- only one the comes to mind
is baby power but I am not sure if it contains other harmful additives.

Inquiring minds....

max wrote:
I have been using talcum powder for many years. I just use the generic brand
at the drug store. It works really well and there is not danger of wax being
left on the wood to spoil a finish.

Do you sand or scrape before finishing? What finishes will tiny traces
of wax spoil? I've used lacquers, oils, varnishes, water based
products, shellac, paint, etc... Nothing has ever been spoiled due to
wax transfer from a tool surface.

I also wax hand planes, clamp cauls, formica and melamine outfeed
surfaces, anything that I need wood to slide over or glue to release from.

I also no longer about the wax soaked
rags being in the shop.

I leave the applicators in the closed wax can. There's dry paste wax on
the buffing rags, which I didn't know was a hazard.

I'm not trying to flame you or break your stones, it's just that this is
new to me and maybe I've missed something. I'd be more concerned with
breathing talcum if there was a a hazard here at all... G

_SILICONE_ might spoil some finishes, but that's not in good paste wax.

Barry

B a r r y wrote:

max wrote:
I have been using talcum powder for many years. I just use the generic brand
at the drug store. It works really well and there is not danger of wax being
left on the wood to spoil a finish.

Do you sand or scrape before finishing? What finishes will tiny traces
of wax spoil? I've used lacquers, oils, varnishes, water based
products, shellac, paint, etc... Nothing has ever been spoiled due to
wax transfer from a tool surface.

I also wax hand planes, clamp cauls, formica and melamine outfeed
surfaces, anything that I need wood to slide over or glue to release from.

I also no longer about the wax soaked
rags being in the shop.

I leave the applicators in the closed wax can. There's dry paste wax on
the buffing rags, which I didn't know was a hazard.

I'm not trying to flame you or break your stones, it's just that this is
new to me and maybe I've missed something. I'd be more concerned with
breathing talcum if there was a a hazard here at all... G

_SILICONE_ might spoil some finishes, but that's not in good paste wax.


I agree w/ all points...espcially the joke.

I am being way over cautious. Only once in the last twenty years of
woodworking can I be sure that wax influenced the finish. As for the rags,
why take chances. Danish oil, grease, wax (any petroleum product or oil)
rags get removed from the shop before I leave.
I both sand and scrape the wood. I do wax some things like the miter gauge
bar, the fence face and probably most things that aren't cast iron. Talcum
leaves the cast iron very slick with repeated coats over the years and even
though my basement is moist, my cast iron tools never rust.
max

max wrote:
I have been using talcum powder for many years. I just use the generic brand
at the drug store. It works really well and there is not danger of wax being
left on the wood to spoil a finish.

Do you sand or scrape before finishing? What finishes will tiny traces
of wax spoil? I've used lacquers, oils, varnishes, water based
products, shellac, paint, etc... Nothing has ever been spoiled due to
wax transfer from a tool surface.

I also wax hand planes, clamp cauls, formica and melamine outfeed
surfaces, anything that I need wood to slide over or glue to release from.

I also no longer about the wax soaked
rags being in the shop.

I leave the applicators in the closed wax can. There's dry paste wax on
the buffing rags, which I didn't know was a hazard.

I'm not trying to flame you or break your stones, it's just that this is
new to me and maybe I've missed something. I'd be more concerned with
breathing talcum if there was a a hazard here at all... G

_SILICONE_ might spoil some finishes, but that's not in good paste wax.

Barry

max wrote:
I am being way over cautious.

Fair enough.

I'm silly careful with oily rags, especially anything that's got any BLO
in it at all. Nothing like a handy bucket of water to toss the rags
into! My shop is UNDER my house, so I have extra incentive to be
careful. G

Barry