We were just talking about the a/c'd shop again over lunch.

We both have zero regrets (except for the $ of course). We were wondering why we didn't bite the
bullet and do this several years ago. It truly is a pleasure to walk into the shop on a 98 and 95
(temp and humidity) day like today. My kids claim I'm cheap, which might be the reason we waited so
long. Finally applied the crowbar. I'd still go with a big window unit and a couple of box fans
from Sams if I could get past the HOA.

That would have saved at least $1500, perhaps $1800, even counting in the cost of a new window. Our
local Sears had a 2 ton GE window unit for around $550 around the end of June. The Borg had
no-name brands about $75 lower. Haven't checked prices since then.

Roy

On Sat, 20 Aug 2005 11:25:01 GMT, User Example wrote:

Thanks for sharing this. I live in Austin and $2500 to make my garage
workable is a bit pricey but doable. I'll start saving now.


Roy wrote:
I've read quite a few messages in this thread. We've gone through the whole gamut of a/c options
the last few months. Here's what we tried, looked at, and ended up with. We're happy with it.
YMMV.

Good idea Upscale except it is about 2 inches of dirt then solid rock.

gregj wrote:
My shop is in a very hot garage and I need to air condition it. After
looking at some of my options it looks like a through the wall air
conditioner is probably the best. My problem is that there is a stone
veneer on the outside of the wall. Any suggestions on how to handle
that, or can you point me in the right direction for some advice?
Thanks.


Greg...

The absolute simplest/most effective/smartest solution to me would be to
install a window and then get a window-mount AC unit. A window will
never aesthetically hurt your garage's curb appeal, and should the AC
unit die down the road, you have far more options... like don't replace
it, or replace it with a new one that adjusts to fit the window size.
Plus in the spring or fall you can yank the AC unit and either just open
the window or get a small window fan to exchange comfortable outside
air. The top part of the window will also be helpful because you'll
know when it's time to go back in the house and eat (it gets dark. Plus
you'll know if it snows, rains, or whatever.

This is not rocket science. Sawzall, window, trim saw, a few other odds
and ends... and you're done.

I just went online and in about 1 hour I was able to obtain an EPA
license that will allow me to buy/handle freon. I'm planning on
building my split type system out of a window unit or possible out of my
portable unit. Shouldn't be too hard. I think I just need to seperate
the evaporator portion from the condensor/compressor section with some
long tubing.


Roy wrote:
We were just talking about the a/c'd shop again over lunch.

We both have zero regrets (except for the $ of course). We were wondering why we didn't bite the
bullet and do this several years ago. It truly is a pleasure to walk into the shop on a 98 and 95
(temp and humidity) day like today. My kids claim I'm cheap, which might be the reason we waited so
long. Finally applied the crowbar. I'd still go with a big window unit and a couple of box fans
from Sams if I could get past the HOA.

That would have saved at least $1500, perhaps $1800, even counting in the cost of a new window. Our
local Sears had a 2 ton GE window unit for around $550 around the end of June. The Borg had
no-name brands about $75 lower. Haven't checked prices since then.

Roy

On Sat, 20 Aug 2005 11:25:01 GMT, User Example wrote:


Thanks for sharing this. I live in Austin and $2500 to make my garage
workable is a bit pricey but doable. I'll start saving now.


Roy wrote:

I've read quite a few messages in this thread. We've gone through the whole gamut of a/c options
the last few months. Here's what we tried, looked at, and ended up with. We're happy with it.
YMMV.

User Example wrote:
I just went online and in about 1 hour I was able to obtain an EPA
license that will allow me to buy/handle freon. I'm planning on
building my split type system out of a window unit or possible out of my
portable unit. Shouldn't be too hard. I think I just need to seperate
the evaporator portion from the condensor/compressor section with some
long tubing.


If you cut the tubing do you have access to a vacuum pump to evacuate
the system?

See:

http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Tools_...cuum_pumps.asp


--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

(Remove -SPAM- to send email)

I just went online and in about 1 hour I was able to obtain an EPA
license that will allow me to buy/handle freon. I'm planning on
building my split type system out of a window unit or possible out of
my portable unit. Shouldn't be too hard. I think I just need to
seperate the evaporator portion from the condensor/compressor section
with some long tubing.


If you cut the tubing do you have access to a vacuum pump to evacuate
the system?

See:

http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Tools_...cuum_pumps.asp


Actually, I happen to have one of those.

How about a recovery machine. ? Some how I have a feeling I would like
to be there when you go to charge the system.

O D wrote:

How about a recovery machine. ? Some how I have a feeling I would like
to be there when you go to charge the system.

Because?

Dave

My response should have been directed to user example.
With and EPA licence he should know why.

O D wrote:
How about a recovery machine. ? Some how I have a feeling I would like
to be there when you go to charge the system.


Well nevermind. I guess I won't be doing that plan after all. Some guy
is selling new 2 Ton mini-splits on Ebay for $849. I offered him $750
for one and he bit. So in a week or so I should be chilling out in my
garage, I hope. This one actually comes precharged with R22 so I just
have to connect the lines I think. I'll post back how it does in my
garage if anyone is interested.

And, to the guy in Austin considering a portable A/C. Well, mine is now
for sale if you are interested! 12000 BTU for $350.

O D wrote:
My response should have been directed to user example.
With and EPA licence he should know why.


Yea, I know what you were getting at. I hadn't figured that part out
yet but I wasn't just going to vent to atmosphere.

I am in the process of building a woodworking shop.

Location - Baton Rouge, LA - high humidity area

Two small 3' wide X 2' high insulated windows facing south very near the
top of the walls.

Size will be 20' X 22' (440 sq. ft.) with 10' ceilings.

Walls will be 4" - drywall / R-13 batt / 3/4" fiber type blackboard /
Hardie Plank.

Ceiling will be - drywall / R-49 batt / to open attic.

Attic will be well ventilated with (2) 14" turbines.

Roof will be shingled with Solar Board for roof decking.

Looking at 15,000/ 15,800 BTU cool only unit from Friedrich
(only one I could find with a good reputation and USA made)
EER 9.0, moisture removal 4.2 pints/hour, 290 CFM, 7.8 AMPS,
cooling watts 1756.

Is this size unit going to be enough. I want cool, don't want short cycles &
not have humidity removal . . .I am fearful of going to big and end up with
cold and clamy . . .

Any suggestions appreciated . . . . .
Steve

User Example wrote:

O D wrote:

My response should have been directed to user example. With and EPA
licence he should know why.


Yea, I know what you were getting at. I hadn't figured that part out
yet but I wasn't just going to vent to atmosphere.
what exactly will you be venting if the system is empty to start with?

Dave

It is not that he would be venting anything. But the EPA says that you
MUST have a recovery machine anytime you work on a unit. They did not
say that if you are installing a new unit you don't need it,or if the
unit you are going to work on is empty you don't need it. They cover
EVERY angle by saying you WILL have a recovery machine on hand. Not back
at the shop or at the supply house.
Just so some of you will know , the mechanic can be fined up to $25,000
for venting freon to the atmosphere . And if you see him and can prove
it (either video ) you can claim some of that fine.
So this is why the mechanic today is very careful . Not like the old
days when we could blow out a condenser with R-12.
Then it was only .75 a LB today maybe
$20.00 LB ( dunno been retired for 4 yrs now ) And that is wholesale
price. To you maybe $35-$40 LB.
Not trying to show anyone up but our classes for the license were over 8
hrs and that is when they first came out. And that was for the "A"& "B"&
"C" license.

Not trying to show anyone up but our classes for the license were over 8
hrs and that is when they first came out. And that was for the "A"& "B"&
"C" license.


8 hours for a license? Wow, that's something else.

O D wrote:

It is not that he would be venting anything. But the EPA says that you
MUST have a recovery machine anytime you work on a unit. They did not
say that if you are installing a new unit you don't need it,or if the
unit you are going to work on is empty you don't need it. They cover
EVERY angle by saying you WILL have a recovery machine on hand. Not back
at the shop or at the supply house.
Just so some of you will know , the mechanic can be fined up to $25,000
for venting freon to the atmosphere . And if you see him and can prove
it (either video ) you can claim some of that fine.
So this is why the mechanic today is very careful . Not like the old
days when we could blow out a condenser with R-12.
Then it was only .75 a LB today maybe
$20.00 LB ( dunno been retired for 4 yrs now ) And that is wholesale
price. To you maybe $35-$40 LB.
Not trying to show anyone up but our classes for the license were over 8
hrs and that is when they first came out. And that was for the "A"& "B"&
"C" license.

I'm glad I no longer work in the automotive a/c field! I'd buy freon
100 cases at a time--14oz cans for less than a buck. I could fill a
system faster any day of the week than the machines that heated a 30#
can. too many regs nowadays.

Dave

He I agree with you. This EPA thing on freon is something else for this
country. Third world countries can still make it and sell it i n new
units but the good old usa can't. It was called the montreal protocol
Today you must recover the refrigerant and treat it as hazardous waste,
Then to be sent to a recycle who MUST clean it and certify that it meets
the standard of new OR BURN it. If they were to clean you R12 and it was
not contaminated by other refrigerant they would pay you about $2.00 LB.
if it was contaminated they get to charge YOU about $5.00 a LB.
So now you should have a recovery machine for all the types of gas. and
clean bottles . because if the recycle finds just a smidgen of mixed gas
you pay . Then the mechanic today is suppose to have a tag on every
bottle of refrigerant with the exact amount still in the can. and
records of where he used it, by the ounce. for the epa. Now this
requires an electronic scale to weigh the bottles about $125.00
There are many a way for the cost to come back and bite the mechanic or
company for disposal. Also company cannot pay the fine for a mechanic.
Bummer huh? Damm doctor can leave a hunk of metal in you and his
insurance pays . Go figure us little guys get stuck again

These have the condenser outside and the evaporator inside - hence the term
split. The two components are joined by the refrigeration tubes, which will
require a small hole of a few inches diameter. The small hole is easily
insulated so you will not loose heat in winter, if you get cold where you
are located.

These units are not at the local appliance store. Lots of information on
the internet. I just did a quick google. This link explains how these
units work.

http://www.toolbase.org/tertiaryT.as...ocumentID=2028

Dave Paine.
..
"gregj" wrote in message
oups.com...
Not a single window in the place.

What is a mini split unit?