Would I have a wood movement problem if I made a table top from a sheey
of baltic birch (probably 3/4'ths inch) and covered it with 3/4'ths
inch tongue and groove hickory planks I had left over from doing a wood
floor? I want to glue the T&G to the baltic birch and then trim the
sides with hickory, too.

I'll coat all sides with polyurathane........

Opinions?

Never Enough Money wrote:

Would I have a wood movement problem if I made a table top from a sheey

of baltic birch (probably 3/4'ths inch) and covered it with 3/4'ths
inch tongue and groove hickory planks I had left over from doing a wood

floor? I want to glue the T&G to the baltic birch and then trim the
sides with hickory, too.
I'll coat all sides with polyurathane


Although I'm not sure of the woods properties, I'll bet you
will have difficulties down the road with this set-up. Tom

I did that years ago, and had no problem with the top. I had a
flooring supplier drop a line of teak flooring that was sawed up into
12"x12" squares, and I got the sample pieces.

Here is what I did: I bought a piece of tempered masonite and direct
glued the tiles to the masonite using a flooring mastic formulated for
wood flooring. (Read he elastomeric adhesive with great
elasticity.) I used masonite because I wanted a surface that was
completely smooth and had a hard, closed surface to retard the glue set
time.

No nails were used on that part. I cut a pieced of plywood
from the old scrap pile (probably B/C or soemthing like that) and then
glued and clamped the whole masonite/teak floor top down to the
plywood. Made a 2 1/2" rim to cover all the nasty edges from some
complimentary wood stained to match the teak as closely as possible.

Screwed it to a used black iron pedestal table stand that I got from a
restaurant supply.

It looks great. It works well an has not had any joint seperation or
buckling because it stays inside the house where it is in a relatively
stable environment. Before you put your planks down, leave them in the
house for about two weeks to stabilize. Also, if you do use the birch
underlay, then stabilize the surface with a good latex sealer (cheap,
cheap) before glueing and/or nailing and those planks will stay on for
a long time.

Robert

Sounds like a waste of good hickory to use 3/4" on top of 3/4" plywood.
Why not resaw the hickory into 1/8" thick pieces on the bndsaw? That's more
than enough to sand down to a nice flat surface. and you will have lots left
over for another project.

JuanKnigher said "Sounds like a waste of good hickory to use 3/4" on
top of 3/4" plywood.
Why not resaw the hickory into 1/8" thick pieces on the bndsaw? That's
more
than enough to sand down to a nice flat surface. and you will have lots
left
over for another project. "


Excellent suggesstion.

"Never Enough Money" wrote in
oups.com:

JuanKnigher said "Sounds like a waste of good hickory to use 3/4" on
top of 3/4" plywood.
Why not resaw the hickory into 1/8" thick pieces on the bndsaw? That's
more
than enough to sand down to a nice flat surface. and you will have lots
left
over for another project. "


Excellent suggesstion.



I'm not sure that I'd want that thin a veneer on my table top. I tend to
pound things there, once in a while.

My 'workbench in a weekend' plan, from ShopNotes I think, has a top of
three layers of 3/4" cabinet ply, with a 1+" thick fire-rated MDF door on
top of that.

Maybe I'll make a fancy Euro bench when I get more studio space...

Patriarch