What is the best way to do a mitered half lap.

I have tried them on the router table using a jig (45 degree sled?) and a
guide bushing on the base plate. I got the idea from Hylton's Wood Working
with the Router only he used a pattern bit and a plunge router). The
process this way seems very SLOW.

My next attempt is going to be on the TS with a dado blade (cheapo, not
always flat bottom cuts: clean up with chisel?).

For those of you that do a lot of these and have tried both methods. What
works best?

Thanks

"stoutman" wrote in message
. com...
What is the best way to do a mitered half lap.

I have tried them on the router table using a jig (45 degree sled?) and a
guide bushing on the base plate. I got the idea from Hylton's Wood
Working
with the Router only he used a pattern bit and a plunge router). The
process this way seems very SLOW.

My next attempt is going to be on the TS with a dado blade (cheapo, not
always flat bottom cuts: clean up with chisel?).

For those of you that do a lot of these and have tried both methods. What
works best?

Try your joint on the table saw - then you can decide for yourself. I prefer
to do half lap joints with a router (see
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/design.html for an example of a 3D non-mitered
half lap joint).

If you have a lot of these to make, you might consider working out an
adaptation of Leon's dado jig. I swiped his photos and you can see them at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html.

Using a small shoulder plane might speed your cleanup operation after
sawing.

--
Morris

Thanks for the links.

I tried them again on the table saw with my L'Cheapo dado blade. The
operation is MUCH faster, but you can see tiny grooves when the joint is
viewed on edge. I tried to clean it up with a chisel, but I only made
things worse (uneven).

I think I will stick with the router and try to be more patient.






"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
"stoutman" wrote in message
. com...
What is the best way to do a mitered half lap.

I have tried them on the router table using a jig (45 degree sled?) and a
guide bushing on the base plate. I got the idea from Hylton's Wood
Working
with the Router only he used a pattern bit and a plunge router). The
process this way seems very SLOW.

My next attempt is going to be on the TS with a dado blade (cheapo, not
always flat bottom cuts: clean up with chisel?).

For those of you that do a lot of these and have tried both methods.
What
works best?

Try your joint on the table saw - then you can decide for yourself. I
prefer
to do half lap joints with a router (see
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/design.html for an example of a 3D non-mitered
half lap joint).

If you have a lot of these to make, you might consider working out an
adaptation of Leon's dado jig. I swiped his photos and you can see them at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html.

Using a small shoulder plane might speed your cleanup operation after
sawing.

--
Morris

In article ,
"stoutman" wrote:

Thanks for the links.

I tried them again on the table saw with my L'Cheapo dado blade. The
operation is MUCH faster, but you can see tiny grooves when the joint is
viewed on edge. I tried to clean it up with a chisel, but I only made
things worse (uneven).

I think I will stick with the router and try to be more patient.

I often remove material in two steps. Table saw and then cleanup with a
router. That way, you get some of the speed and all of the accuracy.
It also allows you to use a much larger diameter (1-1/8" bottom cutting)
bit at higher speed without fear of it bogging down in its own chips and
burning. Build a template to the base of the router.

In article ,
"Morris Dovey" wrote:

I prefer
to do half lap joints with a router (see
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/design.html for an example of a 3D non-mitered
half lap joint).

Certainly looks like the lap of luxury, Morris.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Morris Dovey" wrote:

I prefer
to do half lap joints with a router (see
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/design.html for an example of a 3D
non-mitered
half lap joint).

Certainly looks like the lap of luxury, Morris.

After cutting enough lap joints with a miter box. hand saw, and a chisel, I
began wondering about what it'd be like to have really good accuracy and
repeatability. Once I had the CNC router up and running, I couldn't resist
the urge to explore improvements to the "old" joints.

This lap joint turned out to be a wee bit more difficult than it looks; but
was a worthwhile experiment in a completely unforseen way. I was after a lap
joint that was rack-proof (which it is) but I hadn't anticipated the
interesting property that with /any/ change in humidity/moisture content,
the joint seems to become tighter. The downside is that parts using that
joint need to be assembled right soon after they're cut.

The real luxury is finding time to experiment with stuff like this. (-8

--
Morris