Hax Planx wrote:
I'm wondering if you get more consistency with Appleply or real Baltic
birch. You know, the expensive stuff. I'm not surprised it would be a
problem with home center quality materials. But in their defense, these
materials are intended for construction, not precision woodworking.

It's been my experience with BB that the tolerances are very good.

I just experienced this problem a couple of weekends ago with a birch
veneer core plywood from Menards. I bought 4 sheets of 3/4" plywood
(from a stack that I had them open) and two of the four sheets were
24/32 and two were 23/32. I've never had this issue with BB (5x5 sheets).

Jeff

I also ran into this problem with metal 1"x1" square tubing. Even
though all the pieces were 1/16" wall, some had corners that were more
rounded than others. When the pieces were welded, the guy had to
fiddle around with the beads on some of them to get the edge flat and
square.

"woodworker88" wrote in message
oups.com...
I also ran into this problem with metal 1"x1" square tubing. Even
though all the pieces were 1/16" wall, some had corners that were more
rounded than others. When the pieces were welded, the guy had to
fiddle around with the beads on some of them to get the edge flat and
square.


And it is a problem if appearance is important. I was welding up gym
equipment. And a machine that has different tubing profiles within it looks
like it was put together by a back yard welder with recycled metal. It
doesn't look professional at all.

Another problem. As the wall thickness gets thicker, the corner gets more
rounded. Which means if you want to make part of the machine stronger, you
have to use the heavier gauge tube throughout. Otherwise, it looks crappy.
Which makes the machine much heavier and more expensive.

And talking to your metal supplier gets all kinds of protests that they have
no control over what the manufacturerr sends to them.

We settled on a fix to make the joints look good with the rounded profile.
We just stuck a peice of flat stock in the hole. Then weld as usual. The
flat stock was thick enough to fill the hole. When the weld was applied, it
just melted together with everything else. Not all that elegant, but it
looked good and was strong.

wrote:
...

There is no reason they can't make metric sized plywood 12.54 mm
thick just like they make metric socket sets that use a 12.54 mm
drive.


That should be 12.7 mm. Twice.

--

FF

On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 07:46:38 -0500, Jeff Cooper
wrote:

Hax Planx wrote:
I'm wondering if you get more consistency with Appleply or real Baltic
birch. You know, the expensive stuff. I'm not surprised it would be a
problem with home center quality materials. But in their defense, these
materials are intended for construction, not precision woodworking.

It's been my experience with BB that the tolerances are very good.

I just experienced this problem a couple of weekends ago with a birch
veneer core plywood from Menards. I bought 4 sheets of 3/4" plywood
(from a stack that I had them open) and two of the four sheets were
24/32 and two were 23/32. I've never had this issue with BB (5x5 sheets).

You need to consider the source... If you're in the Eau Claire area
(and I have no idea just how far the Menard's epidemic extends,) try
Pigeon Creek Hardwoods on Hwy 12- cheaper than Menard's by at least
150%, and a whole lot higher quality. If you're in the Twin Cities,
try Youngblood's.

Menard's is nothing but trouble.


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 03:05:41 GMT, "John Moorhead"
wrote:

You have to take the "had" out of your name, you thinker you....

Okay, sure, *now* I'm greedy to boot! I'd venture a guess that over a year
the total amount of wood used in project by rec'rs as a part of the whole is
probably less than the volume of sawdust produced at furniture mills on one
afternoon in Vietnam.