Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
John

"John DeBoo" wrote in message
...
Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
John

Yes, it is available as most any store in the H & BA department or the
pharmacy.

You're right about the mineral oil. I believe there is a trick to
getting the mineral oil to soak into the wood and not just make the
surface slick that involves soaking or rubbing, but I'm not sure.

Thanks to you and to Edwin. If there is a trick I hope someone posts it
as I'm ready to try it out!
John

woodworker88 wrote:

You're right about the mineral oil. I believe there is a trick to
getting the mineral oil to soak into the wood and not just make the
surface slick that involves soaking or rubbing, but I'm not sure.

"John DeBoo" wrote in message
Thanks to you and to Edwin. If there is a trick I hope someone posts it
as I'm ready to try it out!

I use unscented baby oil (I think it's mineral oil) and rub it in with
superfine 4000 grit steel wool. It works great.

"Upscale" wrote in message

I use unscented baby oil (I think it's mineral oil) and rub it in with
superfine 4000 grit steel wool. It works great.



So have I but not with steel wool. You light a couple of candles, but on
some soft music . . . .

"John DeBoo" wrote in message
...
Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
John

Better to use walnut oil. Sinks in, cures, gives a bit of water resistance
without making a swiffer out of your cutting board.

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:52:25 -0400, "George" george@least
wrote:


"John DeBoo" wrote in message
...
Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
John

Better to use walnut oil. Sinks in, cures, gives a bit of water resistance
without making a swiffer out of your cutting board.


But it can become rancid, and some people are allergic to
it... Stick with mineral oil for food-related stuff.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

Walnut oil is a drying oil - ii hasn't gone rancid on me. I've had very good
results using it on chopping blocks - end grain. Works somewhat less well on
long grain - although others have used it by dipping parts in heated walnut oil

Allergies could be a concern - probably less after the oil has dried.
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email

Kenneth wrote:
On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:52:25 -0400, "George" george@least
wrote:


"John DeBoo" wrote in message
...

Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
John

Better to use walnut oil. Sinks in, cures, gives a bit of water resistance
without making a swiffer out of your cutting board.



But it can become rancid, and some people are allergic to
it... Stick with mineral oil for food-related stuff.

All the best,

"Kenneth" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:52:25 -0400, "George" george@least
wrote:


"John DeBoo" wrote in message
...
Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
John

Better to use walnut oil. Sinks in, cures, gives a bit of water
resistance
without making a swiffer out of your cutting board.


But it can become rancid, and some people are allergic to
it... Stick with mineral oil for food-related stuff.


It is a curing oil - does not become rancid in open air.

They're not allergic to walnut oil - one in 100,000 is allergic to some
degree to nut proteins.

On the other hand, bacteria and oil-soluble foodstuffs of all sorts find
comfort and shelter from detergents in an oil which does not cure. Not to
mention dirt and dust collection.

I think maybe you're just putting too much on? I usually dribble drops
down the length of the wood in question and then vigorously rub it
around with a clean cloth until all the surface is noticeably moist
looking, but not slick. It remains "oily" for a few hours, but usually
it's quite useable after that.




Thanks to you and to Edwin. If there is a trick I hope someone posts it
as I'm ready to try it out!
John

woodworker88 wrote:

You're right about the mineral oil. I believe there is a trick to
getting the mineral oil to soak into the wood and not just make the
surface slick that involves soaking or rubbing, but I'm not sure.

"John DeBoo" wrote in message
...
Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
John


Mineral oil is not a finish. It will only penetrate and never harden. I
does nothing for the wood in terms of a cutting board. It will make wooden
kitchen items look good for a while, like until the first time it is used,
and it is completely harmless to humans. It is a nice touch to pretty up a
gift, and will last at least until the party is over. There is not real
trick to using it, although warming the oil and/or the wood will help it
penetrate. I like to put it on cutting boards and bowls. Rubbing beeswax
over the top will prolong the look a bit.

For a nice drying oil, try this stuff:
http://www.bowlmakerinc.com/catalogn...Tp=2&SortBy=ID

--
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop

On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 16:00:59 +0000, Ben Gold wrote:

I think maybe you're just putting too much on? I usually dribble drops
down the length of the wood in question and then vigorously rub it
around with a clean cloth until all the surface is noticeably moist
looking, but not slick. It remains "oily" for a few hours, but usually
it's quite useable after that.

I re-oiled my Williams-Sonoma cutting board just last week. Set it on a
couple paper towels. Pour on mineral oil. Spread it around with fingers.
It's a deep puddle at this stage. Wait a few hours. Do it again. My board
has, with this second application, consumed a pint bottle of mineral
oil. (Less a few ccs that I used for this and that around the shop in the
meantime.)

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com

On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 10:46:08 -0700, Pounds on Wood wrote:

Mineral oil is not a finish. It will only penetrate and never harden. I
does nothing for the wood in terms of a cutting board. It will make wooden
kitchen items look good for a while, like until the first time it is used,

It does fill up pores which would otherwise fill with water. I suspect
that is the purpose.

I like your beeswax idea, will give it a try.

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com

Yes. Think of mineral as non-living or never living and therefore
never spoiling and no rancid smell. It has low toxicity.

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 14:10:27 -0600, John DeBoo
wrote:

Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
John

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 14:10:27 -0600, John DeBoo
wrote:

Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
John

Dissolve paraffin wax in warm mineral oil. Use enough wax to form a
soft gel at room temperature. Rub this into the cutting board.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wgoffe...oodworking.htm

Amen, Walunt or any food based oil is bad news. Pure mineral oil is
best.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
oups.com...
Amen, Walunt or any food based oil is bad news. Pure mineral oil is
best.


Whatever happened to Behlen's Salad Bowl Finish?

Max D.

"Max" wrote in message
...

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
oups.com...
Amen, Walunt or any food based oil is bad news. Pure mineral oil is
best.


Whatever happened to Behlen's Salad Bowl Finish?

Tung oil varnish.

I have used mineral oil on cutting boards and it gives a very nice finish.
However, you will have to renew a couple of times a year if the board gets
used much.. Good part is the stuff is cheap and you can keep it in the
kitchen for finish renewals.