Why do you pull the saw into the work piece with a radial saw & push the
saw into the work piece with a slidder??
Thanks for your 2=A2
Tom

Tom M wrote:
Why do you pull the saw into the work piece with a radial saw & push
the saw into the work piece with a slidder??

Because of the way the teeth of the blade contact the wood.

With a radial, the teeth are trying to push the wood down and back
towards the fence...*AWAY* from you.

With a table saw, the teeth are trying to pull the wood down put also
push it toward you.

For the same reason, one cuts with good side up on a radial saw, good
side down on a table saw.


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"Tom M" wrote in message
...
Why do you pull the saw into the work piece with a radial saw & push the
saw into the work piece with a slidder??
Thanks for your 2¢
Tom

Because you can. (G)
Actually, the radial arm saw would be safer to use if it worked the same
way. But, obviously, the design prohibits that.

Max D.

Max wrote:

"Tom M" wrote in message
...
Why do you pull the saw into the work piece with a radial saw & push the
saw into the work piece with a slidder??
Thanks for your 2¢
Tom

Because you can. (G)
Actually, the radial arm saw would be safer to use if it worked the same
way. But, obviously, the design prohibits that.

Well, if doesn't physically prohibit push-cutting, but using it that
way while "safer" in the sense of not pulling the saw into the material,
it isn't as safe because the uplift of the blade when pushing tends to
pick up the material and throw it. As someone else noted, I think, in
slightly different wording...

"Tom M" wrote in message
...
Why do you pull the saw into the work piece with a radial saw & push the
saw into the work piece with a slidder??

Habit. You can just as easily extend the RAS and cut inward. Objections of
others notwithstanding, it's the same cutting geometry. It does eliminate
the tendency to climb and self-feed, the problem noted in another thread
about knots.

It creates another safety problem in that you're pushing toward the hand
that's holding the piece, and it's half hidden. Possibly half off.

When an RAS self-feeds it will jam and throw off alignment. On my
vintage Sears, this would take a 1/4 hour to reset. Also, the RAS
designers would have to build the machine strong enough to take the
forces. Strength increases cost and weight. Weight reduces
portability.

Not many RAS's being sold today.

"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
Max wrote:

"Tom M" wrote in message
...
Why do you pull the saw into the work piece with a radial saw & push the
saw into the work piece with a slidder??
Thanks for your 2¢
Tom

Because you can. (G)
Actually, the radial arm saw would be safer to use if it worked the same
way. But, obviously, the design prohibits that.

Well, if doesn't physically prohibit push-cutting, but using it that
way while "safer" in the sense of not pulling the saw into the material,
it isn't as safe because the uplift of the blade when pushing tends to
pick up the material and throw it. As someone else noted, I think, in
slightly different wording...

Hmm. Interesting view. Extending that logic to the sliding saws suggests
that they're not as safe as a radial arm saw; an opinion that I would be
reluctant to agree with.

Max

When an RAS self-feeds it will jam and throw off alignment. On my
vintage Sears, this would take a 1/4 hour to reset.

Use the correct blade (diameter and style) and your RAS won't jam. My DeWalt
hasn't changed alignment in years and it get used commercially every day.

Not many RAS's being sold today.

The chop saw has reduced the need for RAS's at construction site, they have
not replaced them. Let's see Delta, Sears, Ridgid and OSC all sell radial
arm saws, the best as sold by OSC. So, they are readily available

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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I don't have a slider, but would use it the same as my RAS (pull) if I did.
I have had liftoff when pushing, but no harm done. As said, pulling holds
the work against the fence. Self feeds and jams only happen when I pull
carelessly and don't cause alignment problems on my RAS ( 35 yr old C'man).
Wilson
"Tom M" wrote in message
...
Why do you pull the saw into the work piece with a radial saw & push the
saw into the work piece with a slidder??
Thanks for your 2¢
Tom

I'm impressed. Dewalt's cost several times what that old Sears did.
And weight, I'm sure you take that Dewalt with you to all your job
sites. And accuracy, haven't "aligned it in years", when was that
last time you ever check it? I've used those old Dewalts at lumber
yards and can't remember a cut that didn't need redoing. Sure Dewalt
made a good saw, but it had its limitation. By the way, "commercial
use" does necessarily mean the tool is used for demanding operations.
Hmmm, when was the last time you cut 8/4 or 14/4 quarter walnut or
maple or for that matter ripped 8/4 into laminations?

The fact there are so few makers of RAS's is an indication just far
miter saws have gone in eliminating them from the market place. Time
was when Sears had a floor full of RAS's. No more. And what about
the company that made the saw your so hopped up on - DeWalt. They
are absent from your list of RAS makers. At one time they where
considering the premier RAS manufacture. The RAS was the company's
core product. Then the market for RAS's collapsed. Black and
Decker bought them out. Kept the brand name and it excellent
reputation. And trashed the rest.

Now just how "readily available" is that Dewalt RAS of yours?
Dewalt sold out in 1989. Are you really going to try to tell us that
the stuff on the market today is its equal, or better? That the
performance of an old Dewalt will be matched by these models you so
hastily recommend?

I think not.

Ray

wrote:
....
Now just how "readily available" is that Dewalt RAS of yours?
Dewalt sold out in 1989. Are you really going to try to tell us that
the stuff on the market today is its equal, or better? That the
performance of an old Dewalt will be matched by these models you so
hastily recommend?

The OSC certainly...and the better/larger Delta's are still just fine as
well.

Of course, they're pricey--but what isn't?

That there are fewer is indicative of the fact they are a more
specialized machine and the advent of the chop/miter saw has mitigated
the need for anything except larger ones for cutoff, etc., useage that
is more tool than most hobbyists will want to dedicate to the purpose.
For a commercial shop or particularly a architectural shop, I'd consider
one nearly indispensible (and would dearly loath to part w/ mine even
though I use it less frequently now for the first of the above reasons).

Tom M ) wrote on Wednesday 06 April 2005 08:58 am:

Why do you pull the saw into the work piece with a radial saw & push the
saw into the work piece with a slidder??
Thanks for your 2¢
Tom

Tom,

I think it's because you always want the spin of the blade such that it's
trying to force the material away from the blade rather than being pulled
into the blade.

BTW, there are radial arm saws out there that spin backwards, i.e. you push
the saw into the work. I've got an Craftsman from the '70s that's built
that way. Kind of convenient, actually.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer

Ray,

OSC bought the complete DeWalt product including all molds, spare parts.
designs etc. from B&D, they produce a superb RAS which is a DeWalt in
everything but name. There is a very strong aftermarket on used DeWalts.
You can buy a 7790 for around $500 and you have an equivalent tom a $3,000
OSC.

I run a commercial furniture shop. We slice through 8/4 etc all the time,
The last time I checked alignment was a few months ago when I replaced the
complete table and upgraded to a two ply Mr. Sawdust table with steel
reinforcement. Alignment was right on the money. I use the saw enough to
know if it's out of alignment, you can tell by the cut alone if you are out.
we also use our RAS's for moulding operations. IMHO you can't build
furniture with out one!

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm impressed. Dewalt's cost several times what that old Sears did.
And weight, I'm sure you take that Dewalt with you to all your job
sites. And accuracy, haven't "aligned it in years", when was that
last time you ever check it? I've used those old Dewalts at lumber
yards and can't remember a cut that didn't need redoing. Sure Dewalt
made a good saw, but it had its limitation. By the way, "commercial
use" does necessarily mean the tool is used for demanding operations.
Hmmm, when was the last time you cut 8/4 or 14/4 quarter walnut or
maple or for that matter ripped 8/4 into laminations?

The fact there are so few makers of RAS's is an indication just far
miter saws have gone in eliminating them from the market place. Time
was when Sears had a floor full of RAS's. No more. And what about
the company that made the saw your so hopped up on - DeWalt. They
are absent from your list of RAS makers. At one time they where
considering the premier RAS manufacture. The RAS was the company's
core product. Then the market for RAS's collapsed. Black and
Decker bought them out. Kept the brand name and it excellent
reputation. And trashed the rest.

Now just how "readily available" is that Dewalt RAS of yours?
Dewalt sold out in 1989. Are you really going to try to tell us that
the stuff on the market today is its equal, or better? That the
performance of an old Dewalt will be matched by these models you so
hastily recommend?

I think not.

Ray

If you want contentious religion take up Islam--the Church of Chopsaw is
kind of silly.

Sweet! VBG

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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