I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
a mere 3.

So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine,
it's been 2 hours.

I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.

Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?

"Never Enough Money" wrote in message
oups.com...
I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
a mere 3.

So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine,
it's been 2 hours.

I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.

Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?

Why are you in such of a hurry?
Jim

Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm
building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.

It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer
paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey
clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.

Not fine funrniture!

"Never Enough Money" wrote:

Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm
building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.

It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer
paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey
clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.

Not fine funrniture!


Danish Oil? Poly? Oak Veneer? For drying jock straps?

Will the fan at least be vented to the outside? 'Course then he might have
to deal with neighbors or the EPA! )

"Never Enough Money" wrote in message
oups.com...
I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
a mere 3.

So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine,
it's been 2 hours.

I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.

Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?

Why did you put danish oil on if you were going to top coat with poly?
I normally wait 12 hours. If you do it sooner, the solvent just picks up
the previous coat; sometimes giving really lousy results.

On 3 Apr 2005 16:48:49 -0700, "Never Enough Money"
wrote:

I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
top coat of polyurathane.

You'll get an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane, rather
than an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane.

Strictly you'll prevent the danish oil from curing (depending somewhat
on what sort of varnish this "danish" oil was mixed with). This will
reduce the quality of the bond between the overlying polyurethane
varnish film and the underlying timber. So you might reduce its wear
behaviour, in case you happened to care.

In terms of what it looks like, I doubt you'll see any difference
(hey, why not _try_ it and learn for sure?). But I wouldn't ever
overcoat danish oil anyway, nor would I oil beneath poly. If I were
going to use an oil and shellac finish (probably my most common) then
I'd use tung oil rather than danish oil, and I'd use shellac rather
than plastic mud.

Danish oil, covered (too quickly) in poly? Why??

Dave

Never Enough Money wrote:

I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
a mere 3.

So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine,
it's been 2 hours.

I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.

Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?

"Never Enough Money" wrote in message
oups.com...
Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm
building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.

It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer
paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey
clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.

Not fine funrniture!


As a hockey player myself and a wooddorker, I don't think it will much
matter what happens for this project. I didn't even put any finish at all
on my equipment drying rack. It will be fine.

Frank

In article .com,
Never Enough Money wrote:

I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
a mere 3.

Why do you think the oil manufacturer is lying?

--
~ Stay Calm... Be Brave... Wait for the Signs ~

"Never Enough Money" wrote in message
oups.com...
Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm
building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.

It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer
paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey
clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.

Not fine funrniture!

Then why not water based paint? This stuff dries in an hour or less.
Jim

Because I had 2 quarts of Danish oil handy.

Don't think hockey players wear underwear -- that's what I've been
told. He's drying mostly pads.

I said it was NOT fine furniture. I'll add that's it's not an eye sore
either.

Danish oil brings color to the wood. Thanks.

Becasue there's moisture in sweat. Didn't want the redwood
expanding/contracting.

Never thought the manufacturer was lying. I just didn't read the can
till after my impatience had gotten the better of me. Ever just get
tired of working on a piece and want it DONE?

Never Enough Money wrote:
Don't think hockey players wear underwear -- that's what I've been
told. He's drying mostly pads.


I always did. G To be exact, Coolmax, silk, or polypropelene. Not
to mention a cup / supporter. However, I WASHED those every time!

Equipment racks are for pads and hockey pants.

Barry

Never Enough Money wrote:
Becasue there's moisture in sweat. Didn't want the redwood
expanding/contracting.



The redwood won't sweat if you don't chase it before the kill.

Barry

In article .com,
Never Enough Money wrote:

Ever just get
tired of working on a piece and want it DONE?


That's the time to shut the shop down and go for a beer.

--
~ Stay Calm... Be Brave... Wait for the Signs ~

So, 24 hours later, how does it look?

Looks and feels just fine. There's one place though that seems a little
sticky. Too much poly?

Dewaxed shellac would dry quickly and could have been used under the,
um, poly. It could have been tinted, if necessary.

Dave

Never Enough Money wrote:
Danish oil brings color to the wood. Thanks.

On 4 Apr 2005 18:02:32 -0700, "Never Enough Money"
wrote:

Don't think hockey players wear underwear --

That was way more information than I needed. =:-0

that's what I've been
told.


He's drying mostly pads.

That's a perfect straight-line if I've ever seen one. Nope, not gonna
stoop to that level, uh-uh, nosirree.


I said it was NOT fine furniture. I'll add that's it's not an eye sore
either.

Regarding your question, I would be concerned that if the Danish oil had
not had enough time to fully cure, the poly may not adhere well to the
surface.




+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 01:45:08 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On 3 Apr 2005 16:48:49 -0700, "Never Enough Money"
wrote:

I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
top coat of polyurathane.

You'll get an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane, rather
than an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane.

Strictly you'll prevent the danish oil from curing (depending somewhat
on what sort of varnish this "danish" oil was mixed with). This will
reduce the quality of the bond between the overlying polyurethane
varnish film and the underlying timber. So you might reduce its wear
behaviour, in case you happened to care.

In terms of what it looks like, I doubt you'll see any difference
(hey, why not _try_ it and learn for sure?). But I wouldn't ever
overcoat danish oil anyway, nor would I oil beneath poly. If I were
going to use an oil and shellac finish (probably my most common) then
I'd use tung oil rather than danish oil, and I'd use shellac rather
than plastic mud.

I've gotten very good results with Danish Oil followed by three coats of
Watco wipe-on poly on cherry for my entertainment center. My normal finish
preference for cherry is polymerized tung oil, but the entertainment center
was too large a project to make that finish schedule practical. The
wipe-on poly doesn't leave that coated in plastic look, and followed with a
good coat of wax, the figure of the wood really stands out.




+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 20:50:00 -0700, Mark & Juanita
wrote:

I've gotten very good results with Danish Oil followed by three coats of
Watco wipe-on poly on cherry

But why use a danish oil (rather than a plain oil) if it's not the
final layer ? It's tacky-dry more quickly, but the oil still doesn't
cure any faster.

Maybe too much Danish oil underneath the poly

Dave

Never Enough Money wrote:
Looks and feels just fine. There's one place though that seems a little
sticky. Too much poly?

Never Enough Money wrote:
Don't think hockey players wear underwear -- that's what I've been
told. He's drying mostly pads.

I said it was NOT fine furniture. I'll add that's it's not an eye sore
either.


who wears underwear? and what's the purpose?

On Tue, 05 Apr 2005 10:25:43 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 20:50:00 -0700, Mark & Juanita
wrote:

I've gotten very good results with Danish Oil followed by three coats of
Watco wipe-on poly on cherry

But why use a danish oil (rather than a plain oil) if it's not the
final layer ? It's tacky-dry more quickly, but the oil still doesn't
cure any faster.

When I was doing test pieces, I found that the Danish oil imparted a
better effect in pulling out the figure of the wood than any of the oils I
tried. I didn't want to use BLO because I was not wanting to take a chance
on the oil yellowing over time.




+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+