It will be the first time that I will make my own paste beeswax polish.
From what I have heard it is a 5 to 1 ratio. That is one part beeswax for 5
parts of mineral oil.
The first recipe I have is: 1 part beeswax for 5 parts of mineral oil.
The second is : 1 part of beeswax for 3 parts of mineral oil and 2 parts of
vegetable oil
The third is : 1 part of beeswax for 4 1/2 parts of mineral oil and 1/2 part
of carnauba wax.
The fourth is: 1 part of beeswax for 2 part of turpentine and 3 parts of
mineral oil.
And it goes on and on with all kind of recipes.
As for the preparation, some are using double boilers on the stove top.
Other are using the microwaves and some simply place the recipient on a wood
stove.
The raw beeswax is either purchased from local beekeepers or some re-sellers
that at time may get the wax from China.
At this time, I do not have a procurement source for raw carnauba wax.
The mineral oil I can either get it from the drugstore or the farm
feed-store.
It will be my first time and I would appreciate some feedback from the
woodturners community. TIA

Denis, I make the first one which is quite nice. I put the beeswax in the
top of a double boiler and gently melt it. Then pour into a glass measuring
cup to see how much you have. After you dump the melted wax back into the
double boiler there will be some still in the measuring cup so you will need
to put it into the microwave for a few seconds so you can pour the remainder
out. I didn't think about melting it in the 'wave in the first place so
can't speak to that.
Once you know how much beeswax you have, measure out 5x amount of mineral
oil. Stir them together well and pour into containers for which you have
lids. Small butter cartons will work as well as jelly jars. The 5 to 1
mix is quite soft and gives a very nice finish and dries to the touch in a
day or two.
I have also tried a 3 to 1 mix which is more like the hardness of shoe
polish but I prefer to use the 5:1.
Jim in Ohio
"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
It will be the first time that I will make my own paste beeswax polish.
From what I have heard it is a 5 to 1 ratio. That is one part beeswax for
5
parts of mineral oil.
The first recipe I have is: 1 part beeswax for 5 parts of mineral oil.
The second is : 1 part of beeswax for 3 parts of mineral oil and 2 parts
of
vegetable oil
The third is : 1 part of beeswax for 4 1/2 parts of mineral oil and 1/2
part
of carnauba wax.
The fourth is: 1 part of beeswax for 2 part of turpentine and 3 parts of
mineral oil.
And it goes on and on with all kind of recipes.
As for the preparation, some are using double boilers on the stove top.
Other are using the microwaves and some simply place the recipient on a
wood
stove.
The raw beeswax is either purchased from local beekeepers or some
re-sellers
that at time may get the wax from China.
At this time, I do not have a procurement source for raw carnauba wax.
The mineral oil I can either get it from the drugstore or the farm
feed-store.
It will be my first time and I would appreciate some feedback from the
woodturners community. TIA

In article ,
"Denis Marier" wrote:

The first recipe I have is: 1 part beeswax for 5 parts of mineral oil.

Beeswax is a bit on the soft & sticky side, as waxes go, but this is
fine if you are aware of that and want that.

The second is : 1 part of beeswax for 3 parts of mineral oil and 2 parts of
vegetable oil

Vegetable oil goes rancid, and is a Bad Idea as any part of a finish for
that reason. People use it, and the people who use it have
rancid-smelling salad bowls and cutting boards. Ick. Don't go there.

The third is : 1 part of beeswax for 4 1/2 parts of mineral oil and 1/2 part
of carnauba wax.

Carnauba is a harder wax, which will give this a bit more shine, and
make it less sticky than the pure beeeswax.

The fourth is: 1 part of beeswax for 2 part of turpentine and 3 parts of
mineral oil.

Which will dry faster than the non-turpentine recipies.

As for the preparation, some are using double boilers on the stove top.
Other are using the microwaves and some simply place the recipient on a wood
stove.

Wax should be heated in a double boiler, never by direct heat. If the
mixture is using turpentine, the hot wax should be removed from the area
of the stove (preferably outside) before the turpentine is mixed in.
Turpentine near a hot stove is a bad idea, and if the stove has open
flame (a gas stove), it's a Very Bad Idea.

It will be my first time and I would appreciate some feedback from the
woodturners community. TIA

My personal preference is to avoid beeswax altogether, as I find it
softer and stickier than I like a wax to be. It gathers fingerprints and
dirt too easily, though it does smell nice. I use pure carnauba
(straight on a buff, or mixed with turpentine for hand application), or
a mixture of about 1/3 carnauba, 1/3 boiled linseed oil (BLO), and 1/3
turpentine. In actual fact, when I make the mixture I get the carnuba
and turpentine premixed as clear (non-colored/untinted) bowling alley
wax, and mix 2/3 that to 1/3 BLO; no heating needed, and much easier to
find locally than pure carnauba (though it is easy enough to mail-order
if you want it).

I would expect rather slow drying from the mineral oil (since it does
not really dry), though I could see using it for a food contact
application where turpentine or BLO might be objectionable.

--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by

On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 23:55:50 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

From what I have heard it is a 5 to 1 ratio. That is one part beeswax for 5
parts of mineral oil.

I've never heard of any beeswax polish anything like that.

Try this
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.knives/msg/8a08ade8f97dc04c?safe=off&as_umsgid=u07kvvs3dlipnc &lr=&hl=en

(Search rec.knives for "beeswax" and my address)


1:3 beeswax and turpentine. Mineral oil is entirely the wrong thing to
use.

Use local beeswax too, don't import the stuff !

Denis
I use 1 part beeswax to 3 parts mineral oil and 3 parts canola or corn oil.
the vegetable oils do not go rancid. Where do people get those ideas? They
have not gone rancid in the 9 years I have been using them.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

Sometimes, vegetable oils go rancid, sometimes they don't. The only
explanation that I have heard that really made any sense was a reply by
George when I asked that question. 'Salad Bowl Finishes', Jan. 11,
2005.



















Darrell Feltmate wrote:
Denis
I use 1 part beeswax to 3 parts mineral oil and 3 parts canola or
corn oil.
the vegetable oils do not go rancid. Where do people get those ideas?
They
have not gone rancid in the 9 years I have been using them.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

Hi all

I use 1 part pure tung oil and 2 parts real turpentine, for penetration
and faster drying, I also use Sunflower oil, it's a vegetable oil, it
does NOT go rancid, animal fats and oils go rancid.

Carnauba wax mixed with beeswax, (the stuff bees make to keep their
honey safe and fresh in) makes for a softer food safe wax, you can use
more or less carnauba to make a harder or softer wax, just heat and mix.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Ecnerwal wrote:

In article ,
"Denis Marier" wrote:


The first recipe I have is: 1 part beeswax for 5 parts of mineral oil.


Beeswax is a bit on the soft & sticky side, as waxes go, but this is
fine if you are aware of that and want that.


The second is : 1 part of beeswax for 3 parts of mineral oil and 2 parts of
vegetable oil


Vegetable oil goes rancid, and is a Bad Idea as any part of a finish for
that reason. People use it, and the people who use it have
rancid-smelling salad bowls and cutting boards. Ick. Don't go there.


The third is : 1 part of beeswax for 4 1/2 parts of mineral oil and 1/2 part
of carnauba wax.


Carnauba is a harder wax, which will give this a bit more shine, and
make it less sticky than the pure beeeswax.


The fourth is: 1 part of beeswax for 2 part of turpentine and 3 parts of
mineral oil.


Which will dry faster than the non-turpentine recipies.


As for the preparation, some are using double boilers on the stove top.
Other are using the microwaves and some simply place the recipient on a wood
stove.


Wax should be heated in a double boiler, never by direct heat. If the
mixture is using turpentine, the hot wax should be removed from the area
of the stove (preferably outside) before the turpentine is mixed in.
Turpentine near a hot stove is a bad idea, and if the stove has open
flame (a gas stove), it's a Very Bad Idea.


It will be my first time and I would appreciate some feedback from the
woodturners community. TIA


My personal preference is to avoid beeswax altogether, as I find it
softer and stickier than I like a wax to be. It gathers fingerprints and
dirt too easily, though it does smell nice. I use pure carnauba
(straight on a buff, or mixed with turpentine for hand application), or
a mixture of about 1/3 carnauba, 1/3 boiled linseed oil (BLO), and 1/3
turpentine. In actual fact, when I make the mixture I get the carnuba
and turpentine premixed as clear (non-colored/untinted) bowling alley
wax, and mix 2/3 that to 1/3 BLO; no heating needed, and much easier to
find locally than pure carnauba (though it is easy enough to mail-order
if you want it).

I would expect rather slow drying from the mineral oil (since it does
not really dry), though I could see using it for a food contact
application where turpentine or BLO might be objectionable.

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
It will be the first time that I will make my own paste beeswax polish.
SNIP
It will be my first time and I would appreciate some feedback from the
woodturners community. TIA


Shave the beeswax, or any wax, finely to help it along. If you shave it
fine, it will dissolve over a couple of days on its own. Heat will do it
faster, but it has to be low heat lest you ignite your brew.

After all the hassle, and results I was not particularly fond of - work that
wept mineral oil when displayed in the sun - I went to walnut oil. Even
with the wax in the way, it seems to cure, but now I just use the oil, and
run some wax in later if I want it.

If you apply your nose to commercial products like
http://www.hollandbowlmill.com B's Oil Wood Preserver, you'll recognize the
friendly odors of walnut and beeswax, and the mixing job's done for you.

As mentioned before in another thread, SWMBO will like your beeswax/mineral
oil mixture - it's cold cream, if she adds a scent and a bit of alcohol.

In article gTeQd.39801$K54.14316@edtnps84,
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

Denis
I use 1 part beeswax to 3 parts mineral oil and 3 parts canola or corn oil.
the vegetable oils do not go rancid. Where do people get those ideas?

From my nose, applied to products coated with vegetable oil (probably
soy).

--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by

"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
It will be the first time that I will make my own paste beeswax polish.
From what I have heard it is a 5 to 1 ratio. That is one part beeswax for
5
parts of mineral oil.
The first recipe I have is: 1 part beeswax for 5 parts of mineral oil.
The second is :....{SNIP}

Denis,
People have a lot of personal preferences when it comes to finishes.
Start by making up small batches to see what you prefer. I use ointment
tins (you can use small candy tins) and one of those plug-in coffee cup
warmers to melt beeswax and mineral oil or beeswax and walnut oil or beeswax
and carnauba. I haven't bothered with exact ratios, just spoon a little
out, let it cool and see if it is the consistency you want, and then adjust
as necessary. I don't mix the beeswax with any solvents, that's my personal
preference.
And that's my opinion on beeswax.
I find that the beeswax/mineral mixture is also good on shoes and smells
better than shoe polish.

Martin
Long Island, New York

i don't know a lot about wax finishes....but have been experimenting with
them myself and found these observations:
1. you can usually buy carnuba wax in candle making supply stores....don't
know
where you live, but if in the Seattle area, then i can tell you one.
2. carnuba wax is hard and polishes great with the right application, you
may have
trouble applying and buffing it if you put too much into the mixture....it
works particularly
great on ink pens and briar pipes....other small, easily buffed wood
objects.
3. beeswax is available in apiary supply stores...again i know one. also
available in candle supply
stores.
4. if you leave out turpentine and other dissolving/drying agents, then you
essentially get salad bowl finish.
5. opinion only...vegetable oils tend to go rancid when coming into contact
with food over long periods
of time and the right temperature...bacteria love food and that means almost
anything you use will need
cleaning. some chemicals are relatively easy to clean and others are
not....anything soft or liquid is going
to attract and hold food. anything hard will be easy to clean.
6. brand wise; Myland's turns out great and is easy to apply. Je mosers and
minwax are not as good a finish.
I doubt any of the three are food safe.
I like mixing carnuba and beeswax into a double boiler. figure out the best
proportions for what you are
using it on. a large object...more beeswax? a hard to buff object...more
beeswax? otherwise more carnuba?
good luck,
rich
"Denis Marier" wrote in message
...
It will be the first time that I will make my own paste beeswax polish.
From what I have heard it is a 5 to 1 ratio. That is one part beeswax for
5
parts of mineral oil.
The first recipe I have is: 1 part beeswax for 5 parts of mineral oil.
The second is : 1 part of beeswax for 3 parts of mineral oil and 2 parts
of
vegetable oil
The third is : 1 part of beeswax for 4 1/2 parts of mineral oil and 1/2
part
of carnauba wax.
The fourth is: 1 part of beeswax for 2 part of turpentine and 3 parts of
mineral oil.
And it goes on and on with all kind of recipes.
As for the preparation, some are using double boilers on the stove top.
Other are using the microwaves and some simply place the recipient on a
wood
stove.
The raw beeswax is either purchased from local beekeepers or some
re-sellers
that at time may get the wax from China.
At this time, I do not have a procurement source for raw carnauba wax.
The mineral oil I can either get it from the drugstore or the farm
feed-store.
It will be my first time and I would appreciate some feedback from the
woodturners community. TIA

Hi,

You said that "I use 1 part pure tung oil and 2 parts real turpentine, for
penetration
and faster drying, I also use Sunflower oil, it's a vegetable oil".
Is this for Tung oil mixture only or you are blending it with beeswax.
TIA


"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message
...
Hi all

I use 1 part pure tung oil and 2 parts real turpentine, for penetration
and faster drying, I also use Sunflower oil, it's a vegetable oil, it
does NOT go rancid, animal fats and oils go rancid.

Carnauba wax mixed with beeswax, (the stuff bees make to keep their
honey safe and fresh in) makes for a softer food safe wax, you can use
more or less carnauba to make a harder or softer wax, just heat and mix.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Ecnerwal wrote:

In article ,
"Denis Marier" wrote:


The first recipe I have is: 1 part beeswax for 5 parts of mineral oil.


Beeswax is a bit on the soft & sticky side, as waxes go, but this is
fine if you are aware of that and want that.


The second is : 1 part of beeswax for 3 parts of mineral oil and 2 parts
of
vegetable oil


Vegetable oil goes rancid, and is a Bad Idea as any part of a finish for
that reason. People use it, and the people who use it have
rancid-smelling salad bowls and cutting boards. Ick. Don't go there.


The third is : 1 part of beeswax for 4 1/2 parts of mineral oil and 1/2
part
of carnauba wax.


Carnauba is a harder wax, which will give this a bit more shine, and
make it less sticky than the pure beeeswax.


The fourth is: 1 part of beeswax for 2 part of turpentine and 3 parts of
mineral oil.


Which will dry faster than the non-turpentine recipies.


As for the preparation, some are using double boilers on the stove top.
Other are using the microwaves and some simply place the recipient on a
wood
stove.


Wax should be heated in a double boiler, never by direct heat. If the
mixture is using turpentine, the hot wax should be removed from the area
of the stove (preferably outside) before the turpentine is mixed in.
Turpentine near a hot stove is a bad idea, and if the stove has open
flame (a gas stove), it's a Very Bad Idea.


It will be my first time and I would appreciate some feedback from the
woodturners community. TIA


My personal preference is to avoid beeswax altogether, as I find it
softer and stickier than I like a wax to be. It gathers fingerprints and
dirt too easily, though it does smell nice. I use pure carnauba
(straight on a buff, or mixed with turpentine for hand application), or
a mixture of about 1/3 carnauba, 1/3 boiled linseed oil (BLO), and 1/3
turpentine. In actual fact, when I make the mixture I get the carnuba
and turpentine premixed as clear (non-colored/untinted) bowling alley
wax, and mix 2/3 that to 1/3 BLO; no heating needed, and much easier to
find locally than pure carnauba (though it is easy enough to mail-order
if you want it).

I would expect rather slow drying from the mineral oil (since it does
not really dry), though I could see using it for a food contact
application where turpentine or BLO might be objectionable.

Hi Denis

Yes that's right, only pure tung oil and real turpentine, if I want a
wax, then I wait until the tung has hardened, if that is not shiny
enough I use Carnauba wax, I find the bees wax just to soft, tung is
much better in my opinion, it just takes longer to get a few coats on,
but if you take your time it's a very nice finish and it is safe like
bees wax, I never use mineral oil, it's like uncolored motor oil, and it
never dries.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Denis Marier wrote:
Hi,

You said that "I use 1 part pure tung oil and 2 parts real turpentine, for
penetration and faster drying, I also use Sunflower oil, it's a vegetable oil, it does NOT get rancid,

Is this for Tung oil mixture only or you are blending it with beeswax.
TIA