Hi,

You said that "I use 1 part pure tung oil and 2 parts real turpentine, for
penetration
and faster drying, I also use Sunflower oil, it's a vegetable oil".
Is this for Tung oil mixture only or you are blending it with beeswax.
TIA


"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message
...
Hi all

I use 1 part pure tung oil and 2 parts real turpentine, for penetration
and faster drying, I also use Sunflower oil, it's a vegetable oil, it
does NOT go rancid, animal fats and oils go rancid.

Carnauba wax mixed with beeswax, (the stuff bees make to keep their
honey safe and fresh in) makes for a softer food safe wax, you can use
more or less carnauba to make a harder or softer wax, just heat and mix.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Ecnerwal wrote:

In article ,
"Denis Marier" wrote:


The first recipe I have is: 1 part beeswax for 5 parts of mineral oil.


Beeswax is a bit on the soft & sticky side, as waxes go, but this is
fine if you are aware of that and want that.


The second is : 1 part of beeswax for 3 parts of mineral oil and 2 parts
of
vegetable oil


Vegetable oil goes rancid, and is a Bad Idea as any part of a finish for
that reason. People use it, and the people who use it have
rancid-smelling salad bowls and cutting boards. Ick. Don't go there.


The third is : 1 part of beeswax for 4 1/2 parts of mineral oil and 1/2
part
of carnauba wax.


Carnauba is a harder wax, which will give this a bit more shine, and
make it less sticky than the pure beeeswax.


The fourth is: 1 part of beeswax for 2 part of turpentine and 3 parts of
mineral oil.


Which will dry faster than the non-turpentine recipies.


As for the preparation, some are using double boilers on the stove top.
Other are using the microwaves and some simply place the recipient on a
wood
stove.


Wax should be heated in a double boiler, never by direct heat. If the
mixture is using turpentine, the hot wax should be removed from the area
of the stove (preferably outside) before the turpentine is mixed in.
Turpentine near a hot stove is a bad idea, and if the stove has open
flame (a gas stove), it's a Very Bad Idea.


It will be my first time and I would appreciate some feedback from the
woodturners community. TIA


My personal preference is to avoid beeswax altogether, as I find it
softer and stickier than I like a wax to be. It gathers fingerprints and
dirt too easily, though it does smell nice. I use pure carnauba
(straight on a buff, or mixed with turpentine for hand application), or
a mixture of about 1/3 carnauba, 1/3 boiled linseed oil (BLO), and 1/3
turpentine. In actual fact, when I make the mixture I get the carnuba
and turpentine premixed as clear (non-colored/untinted) bowling alley
wax, and mix 2/3 that to 1/3 BLO; no heating needed, and much easier to
find locally than pure carnauba (though it is easy enough to mail-order
if you want it).

I would expect rather slow drying from the mineral oil (since it does
not really dry), though I could see using it for a food contact
application where turpentine or BLO might be objectionable.