I got several large apple limbs yesterday, I am planning on turning
most of them thin and green, then letting them warp.
but I am wondering how to store the blanks until I can use them(there is
quite a lot of it)
could I just stick them all in a bag, and add shavings as I turn?
I think it will take me a few weeks to get through it all.

also, how should I attach them to the faceplate? I don't really want to
use screws and lose a lot of the wood, but I'm not sure if tape will
hold.
if I rough them out, would shavings and bagging them work well enough,
or should I seal the ends too
and yes I thought of LDD, but for this wood I don't really want to be
playing around with it.

I googled all the group for apple sealing, but couldn't find any
answer's to the sealing of logs in bags just for a while.

thanks
reyd

P.S. The lathe is almost ready to go at home, just need to get another
tool or two and a coat of paint on it.

--

Maybe I'm just a pessimist and am totally wrong; I could live quite
happily with that.
-SATAN
Sane people are just lunatics in denial.
_Delta Nine

Forget the bags in this case of just a couple of weeks and with fruit wood.
Just throw the limbs into some water and completely submerge them. You'll
get no moisture loss and no mildew setting in.

I assume you mean to hollow them by your remarks and questions? Screws
probably won't hold. Neither will tape on such wet things. Best to make a
jamb chuck and glue them in. Otherwise, a scroll chuck is best but I'm also
assuming you don't have one of those either.

For roughing them out and it being a fruit wood, I'd at LEAST bag them and
seal the endgrain a little. Really depends on other factors too but this is
a start.

- Andrew


"Reyd" wrote in message
...
I got several large apple limbs yesterday, I am planning on turning
most of them thin and green, then letting them warp.
but I am wondering how to store the blanks until I can use them(there is
quite a lot of it)
could I just stick them all in a bag, and add shavings as I turn?
I think it will take me a few weeks to get through it all.

also, how should I attach them to the faceplate? I don't really want to
use screws and lose a lot of the wood, but I'm not sure if tape will
hold.
if I rough them out, would shavings and bagging them work well enough,
or should I seal the ends too
and yes I thought of LDD, but for this wood I don't really want to be
playing around with it.

I googled all the group for apple sealing, but couldn't find any
answer's to the sealing of logs in bags just for a while.

thanks
reyd

P.S. The lathe is almost ready to go at home, just need to get another
tool or two and a coat of paint on it.

--

Maybe I'm just a pessimist and am totally wrong; I could live quite
happily with that.
-SATAN
Sane people are just lunatics in denial.
_Delta Nine

In article ,
Reyd wrote:

P.S. The lathe is almost ready to go at home, just need to get another
tool or two and a coat of paint on it.

How's your hand recovery going?

On Tue, 01 Jun 2004 02:26:25 GMT, Reyd wrote:

I got several large apple limbs yesterday, I am planning on turning
most of them thin and green, then letting them warp.
but I am wondering how to store the blanks until I can use them(there is
quite a lot of it)
could I just stick them all in a bag, and add shavings as I turn?
I think it will take me a few weeks to get through it all.

Reyd,

I have had variable luck with end-sealing with Anchor Seal, and Andy's
idea of submerging them in water sounds pretty good, too.

My main comment is this, though -- Save every scrap of the apple wood
and all of the shavings! Don't let them get mixed up with other
shavings, and keep them in a bag where they won't mildew. You'll be
hard-pressed to find anything better to smoke a piece of pork, chicken
or beef with, on the grill. You don't even have to have a smoker,
just a hunk of aluminum foil and a double handful of soaking-wet
shavings, chunks, or whatever you've got. Put 'em on the fire,
wrapped up in the aluminum foil, with a couple of holes poked in it,
and let 'er smoke! MMMMMmmmm, is that some good eatin'!


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


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What do most people do for finish, sand while wet then warp?
or not sand at all, and just leave.
or what?
and what if any finish do you guys use on the bowl after its warped.


In article ,
"AHilton" wrote:

Forget the bags in this case of just a couple of weeks and with fruit wood.
Just throw the limbs into some water and completely submerge them. You'll
get no moisture loss and no mildew setting in.

I assume you mean to hollow them by your remarks and questions?
natural edge thin bowls that will warp( I hope)
and I ended up accepting the waste I'd get with screws, only hit them
twice so farG


Screws
probably won't hold. Neither will tape on such wet things. Best to make a
jamb chuck and glue them in. Otherwise, a scroll chuck is best but I'm also
assuming you don't have one of those either.

For roughing them out and it being a fruit wood, I'd at LEAST bag them and
seal the endgrain a little. Really depends on other factors too but this is
a start.

ok, I've sealed the limbs with a white latex sealer, designed for going
over mildew and stains.
my biggest time user is getting the damn branches through the bandsaw,
make a v block, run it through length ways, now run it sideways, now
make a new vblock and onto next branch.

I'm having fun anyways, I am using almost entirely a sorby bowl gouge,
and a little bit of scraping to get the little knob at the bottom
out(which I don't try to cut with my gouge because of my odd grind.


thanks again, and sorry for all the new questions.

--

Maybe I'm just a pessimist and am totally wrong; I could live quite
happily with that.
-SATAN
Sane people are just lunatics in denial.
_Delta Nine

In article ,
Owen Lowe wrote:

In article ,
Reyd wrote:

P.S. The lathe is almost ready to go at home, just need to get another
tool or two and a coat of paint on it.

How's your hand recovery going?

get out of the splint on friday.
then after 4-5 weeks after that it will be mostly done recovering, dunno
if it will be as good, but at least I can move it again.

--

Maybe I'm just a pessimist and am totally wrong; I could live quite
happily with that.
-SATAN
Sane people are just lunatics in denial.
_Delta Nine

In article , Reyd
wrote:

What do most people do for finish, sand while wet then warp?
or not sand at all, and just leave.
or what?
and what if any finish do you guys use on the bowl after its warped.

I just completed a bowl from a piece of crabapple... Turned it to final
thickness and sanded it wet, then let it warp and dry.

I did a hand sanding after it finished drying, then several (about 10)
coats of shellac and finished with a paste wax.

djb

You can make a natural edge bowl, then use a heat gun to dry the surface and
then sand. OR you can turn to about 5/8" thick and microwave. Do it in
sessions and let the wood dry in between perhaps 3 minutes, rest, 1 1/2
minute, rest, 1 minute rest. I do the resting in a paper bag outside the
microwave for about 10 minutes. I use this for natural edge bowls that are
too wet to sand also. You will get rid of a lot of moisture and then you
can finish cut and sand. There will still be warpage but you will have less
chance of cracks since you will have reduced the moisture significantly.

"Reyd" wrote in message
What do most people do for finish, sand while wet then warp?
or not sand at all, and just leave.
or what?
and what if any finish do you guys use on the bowl after its warped.

What do most people do for finish, sand while wet then warp?
or not sand at all, and just leave.
or what?
and what if any finish do you guys use on the bowl after its warped.


There are no rules. It can be done many many ways and I do most of them
from time to time just depending on what I want to accomplish, what the wood
is tending to do while still wet, environmental conditions and, sometimes,
just what I feel like that day.

Sanding while wet is cooler. It's "easier" in some ways and tougher in
others. It can "muddy" some woods while not others. Sometimes, it's best
to let completely dry and then hand sand. Other times it's not. If you
have a great finish from the tool, leave it unsanded. Or not.

Putting a finish on will, usually, help prevent cracking but not always.
Depending on the finish (film building ones), if the wood warps too much,
you'll get cracks in the finish. Just depends on the finish, wood,
evironmental conditions, how you let it dry, etc. It also depends on the
pieces' intended use.

For a warping effect, again depending on the wood, it's best to go very thin
(but yet still even thinness all over or else you're just asking for
cracking) so that the moisture loss is fairly quick and even. Some woods
won't warp well unless there's some mass there so you need to leave it a bit
thicker. Realize, too, that with significant warpage, the natural edged
bark may not want to move that much. You may loose it.


ok, I've sealed the limbs with a white latex sealer, designed for going
over mildew and stains.


Keep checking and applying the sealer as needed every other day. It's
better than nothing but it's not all that great either. Latex "breaths" way
too much for this case.



I'm having fun anyways, I am using almost entirely a sorby bowl gouge,

That's the key! Have fun and get experience along the way.



- Andrew

(Chuck) wrote in message ...
On Tue, 01 Jun 2004 02:26:25 GMT, Reyd wrote:

I got several large apple limbs yesterday, I am planning on turning
most of them thin and green, then letting them warp.
but I am wondering how to store the blanks until I can use them(there is
quite a lot of it)
could I just stick them all in a bag, and add shavings as I turn?
I think it will take me a few weeks to get through it all.

Reyd,

I have had variable luck with end-sealing with Anchor Seal, and Andy's
idea of submerging them in water sounds pretty good, too.

My main comment is this, though -- Save every scrap of the apple wood
and all of the shavings! Don't let them get mixed up with other
shavings, and keep them in a bag where they won't mildew. You'll be
hard-pressed to find anything better to smoke a piece of pork, chicken
or beef with, on the grill. You don't even have to have a smoker,
just a hunk of aluminum foil and a double handful of soaking-wet
shavings, chunks, or whatever you've got. Put 'em on the fire,
wrapped up in the aluminum foil, with a couple of holes poked in it,
and let 'er smoke! MMMMMmmmm, is that some good eatin'!

I tried that, I didn't quite get an enthusiastic response when I got
home, I got told to throw it all out.

--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


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In article , Reyd
Dorakeen wrote:

I tried that, I didn't quite get an enthusiastic response when I got
home, I got told to throw it all out.

Pity.

I did pork ribs on the BBQ a few weeks ago, the ribs on the cold side
of the grill and apple chips on the hot side. Smoked them for about 5
hours, the added sauce and turned the grill up to "sear".

Ambrosia...

djb

On 3 Jun 2004 13:23:43 -0700, (Reyd Dorakeen) wrote:


Put 'em on the fire,
wrapped up in the aluminum foil, with a couple of holes poked in it,
and let 'er smoke! MMMMMmmmm, is that some good eatin'!

I tried that, I didn't quite get an enthusiastic response when I got
home, I got told to throw it all out.

Philistines!!

I just did two racks of ribs yesterday...smoked for about 5 1/2 hours
in aromatic apple smoke with a dry rub, then slathered with sauce and
grilled for another hour.

I'm convinced there will be BBQ in heaven...!


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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