I am about to embark on my first real hollowing adventure. To this point,
my only hollowing has been with small lidded boxes, perhaps 3" deep. My
tool of choice has been a 3/8" spindle gouge.

Now, I intend to attempt a small vessel, perhaps 6" or 7" in diameter by 8"
or 9" tall with a 3" diameter opening. I intend to use green wood, either
maple or cherry. This just to "get my feet wet" in hollowing, so to speak.

Is this a viable project on a Jet Mini lathe? I do not own a hollowing
tool. What is a good reasonably priced hollowing tool for a beginner? How
about a Termite tool? Or one of those deals with a teardrop-shaped cutter
on the end of a round shank? Any advice would be appreciated. Please keep
my lack of experience with hollowing tools in mind. Thanks.

For your size lathe seems the perfect fit would be Kelton Mini
Hollowing Set and Kelton Mini Hollower Handle.

I use this and am very happy with it, should set you back $100, but it
is a good quality product.

Hope this helps,

Mike

Barry
It is likely no surprise but I would say to make the tools. For under
ten bucks they are hard to beat. A three inch opening is large so almost
anything will get in there. John Jordan has a great video on hollow
turning as does David Ellsworth. Take a look at my website under hollow
forms for a quick intro.
--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
http://www.roundthewoods.com

I am by no means a seasoned hollowing veteran but I've done 70+ this past
year. Everything from miniature hollow-forms of 1/4" diameter x 3/4" long
to larger 9" diameter x 12" long vases and most of that on the Jet Mini.
No, Chuck, I've not gotten down to the 2mm hollowforms yet! If YOU have,
keep it to yourself. g

The size of the project you are intending to start seems a bit too
ambitious. However, I hate to see ambition quashed so I'll let you know my
opinion on what you might look at for such a project.

- Don't use very green wood. Depending on the species, it'll move and warp
on you as you hollow. For a beginner, this is just another issue to deal
with that you really don't need.

- Very dry wood just isn't fun to turn either. Quite dusty and heat is more
of a problem. Dry to get something that's just a little green.

- Don't use a "bad" piece of wood with checks, cracks, voids or anything
other kind of trouble area. Myself, I love these features and seek them
out. You'll have other things to worry about so don't add this to the list
right now.

- Maple or Cherry is good. It's not stringy like Elm. Nasty stuff, Elm, for
hollowing and getting a good surface in there.

- Form and completely finish the outside first. You don't want to come back
after hollowing and do some touchups... even sanding.


- Are you going to do an endgrain hollowing? You'll need different tools
(or tips ... see below) and technique.

- This is a very do-able project on the Jet Mini. You'll want to keep your
tailstock on the piece as long as possible as you're doing the outside.
Check and keep rechecking your scroll chuck tightness throughout the entire
process.

- Hollowing tools are like women .... It's nice to have one when you need it
but nobody can agree on what's the best.

- Hollowing tools are UNlike women ... You can have more than one hollowing
tool around for different purposes and moods.

- I've used several (but certainly not all) hollowing tools and make my own
for the small hollowforms I make. I think the best Bang-For-The-Buck
especially for a beginner is the Sorby Multi-tip Hollowing tool or one like
it. You've got one tool with interchangeable tips for different types of
hollowing (and the outsides too BTW). Just put a different tip in there when
your need changes and adjust the tip that you've got in there as you work
around the inside. There are certainly better hollowing tools out there for
different and specialized situations as well as the experience of the
'turner but you're wanting to "get your feet wet" so this tool (or, again,
one like it) would be the best.

- These interchangeable tip tools usually have a tip that's good for
endgrain hollowing and a tip that's good for other. You can always grind
and reshape these tips to suit your style or type of turning later. I do
all the time. Oh, by the way, don't send these through the US Postal
Service mail. For some reason, they like 'em and keep 'em. (Hey, Chuck,
have you used yours yet? G)

- "Or one of those deals with a teardrop-shaped cutter on the end of a round
shank?" this tip can be used at the end of the process when you're
cleaning up and smoothing out the bumps made by the other tips. Don't start
hollowing with this tip if you decide to go with this kind of tool.

- The termite and hook tools are for more advanced turners I feel. It takes
lots of technique and they are not as forgiving. Quite agressive.

- By ALL MEANS watch someone who's experienced with hollowing do it. There
is absolutely NO substitute.

- If you're planning to hollow that full 9" (or maybe 8.5" considering
bottom thickness) then you're going to need a long tool or maybe an
armbrace. Beyond 4-5", the forces pulling that hollowing tip down become
quite strong and you're going to need either that longer tool and/or handle
sticking out there to give you leverage. This is another reason why I feel
that this is a bit ambitious for a beginner. You've got enough things to
think about without the issue of deep hollowing.

- Don't go nuts thinking that you need to get a uniform 1/8" wall thickness
like the experts out there. Concentrate on simply getting an even, smooth
and consistent wall of ANY thickness.

- Have some way of sucking, blowing, or otherwise getting the shavings/DUST
out of your hollowform because you're going to be doing a LOT of it.
Especially on the size of project you're considering.

- For such a large opening, consider drilling a hole with a forstner bit
(2.5" diameter for example) down to almost the bottom of where you want the
bottom to be. This will remove a LOT of material to start out with and give
you some room in there to work. This helps with the shavings/dust
accumulation.... it has to have somewhere to go before you get it out of
there.

- In general, start your hollowing at the top and work down about an inch at
a time. Get that area you're working on to final thickness and fairly
smooth before continuing on down. Why? Because you need the mass and
stability of the area below (if the hollowed item was standing up) to
support the hollowing forces you're subjecting it to above.

- Measure Measure Measure your depth. And then do it again before parting
off. Don't ask ... (mumble mumble)

That's all I can think of at the moment. There's LOTS more, I'm sure, but I
have to replace a water heater now. Good luck and let us see how it comes
out.

- Andrew



"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
.. .
I am about to embark on my first real hollowing adventure. To this point,
my only hollowing has been with small lidded boxes, perhaps 3" deep. My
tool of choice has been a 3/8" spindle gouge.

Now, I intend to attempt a small vessel, perhaps 6" or 7" in diameter by
8"
or 9" tall with a 3" diameter opening. I intend to use green wood, either
maple or cherry. This just to "get my feet wet" in hollowing, so to
speak.

Is this a viable project on a Jet Mini lathe? I do not own a hollowing
tool. What is a good reasonably priced hollowing tool for a beginner?
How
about a Termite tool? Or one of those deals with a teardrop-shaped cutter
on the end of a round shank? Any advice would be appreciated. Please
keep
my lack of experience with hollowing tools in mind. Thanks.

Barry,

For vessels up to about 6-7" in diameter, the Kelton small hollowers (1/2"
shank) or the smaller Jordan hollowers (1/2" shank) will work well. The
Kelto mini hollowers (5/16" shanks) are too small for this size of vessel.
they will flex too much.

Joe Fleming - San Diego
========================
"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
.. .
I am about to embark on my first real hollowing adventure. To this point,
my only hollowing has been with small lidded boxes, perhaps 3" deep. My
tool of choice has been a 3/8" spindle gouge.

Now, I intend to attempt a small vessel, perhaps 6" or 7" in diameter by
8"
or 9" tall with a 3" diameter opening. I intend to use green wood, either
maple or cherry. This just to "get my feet wet" in hollowing, so to
speak.

Is this a viable project on a Jet Mini lathe? I do not own a hollowing
tool. What is a good reasonably priced hollowing tool for a beginner?
How
about a Termite tool? Or one of those deals with a teardrop-shaped cutter
on the end of a round shank? Any advice would be appreciated. Please
keep
my lack of experience with hollowing tools in mind. Thanks.

Check out the boring bars from Don Pencil at donpencil.com he has a combination of tools that will cover the small to the very large hollowing work at very reasonable prices

I am unable to access the boring bar link at donpencil.com .
It may be that my server is not working good or donpencil's site is under construction?
"jim driskell" wrote in message ...
Check out the boring bars from Don Pencil at donpencil.com he has a combination of tools that will cover the small to the very large hollowing work at very reasonable prices

Go to this address: http://www.donpencil.com

--
********************************************
,-._|\ L. Peter Stacey
/ Oz \ Melbourne Australia
\_,--.x/
v

"Denis Marier" wrote in message ...
I am unable to access the boring bar link at donpencil.com .
It may be that my server is not working good or donpencil's site is under construction?
"jim driskell" wrote in message ...
Check out the boring bars from Don Pencil at donpencil.com he has a combination of tools that will cover the small to the very large hollowing work at very reasonable prices

Nice system, thanks for the information.
Denis in Sprucewood
"L. Peter Stacey" wrote in message ...
Go to this address: http://www.donpencil.com

--
********************************************
,-._|\ L. Peter Stacey
/ Oz \ Melbourne Australia
\_,--.x/
v

"Denis Marier" wrote in message ...
I am unable to access the boring bar link at donpencil.com .
It may be that my server is not working good or donpencil's site is under construction?
"jim driskell" wrote in message ...
Check out the boring bars from Don Pencil at donpencil.com he has a combination of tools that will cover the small to the very large hollowing work at very reasonable prices

"Joe Fleming" wrote in message ...
Barry,

For vessels up to about 6-7" in diameter, the Kelton small hollowers (1/2"
shank) or the smaller Jordan hollowers (1/2" shank) will work well. The
Kelto mini hollowers (5/16" shanks) are too small for this size of vessel.
they will flex too much.

Joe Fleming - San Diego


good advise. I should have suggested the small and not the mini
Hollowers, did not pay enough attention to your size requirements. For
some reason with the Jet Mini I had "mini" on my mind.

Mike

On 10 Nov 2003 23:46:27 -0800, (Mike Wiktorski) wrote:

For your size lathe seems the perfect fit would be Kelton Mini
Hollowing Set and Kelton Mini Hollower Handle.

I use this and am very happy with it, should set you back $100, but it
is a good quality product.

Ditto. I just purchased a set and they're great for small forms.

Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com