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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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Hi Jim.
In looking at his separated blocks, the glue coverage looks about perfect. He isn't using any activator, other than the moisture in the blanks. I'll pass along the suggestions on reducing the oils and trying a tenon. I think one difference in our techniques is that I use a single center-screw faceplate, and true up the bottom of my pieces - then glue the block to the bottom. I believe he mounts his blocks before he initial mounts the piece. Gary "Jim M" wrote in message ... Hi Gary, I don't turn much Koa, but have used a board or two of it before. As I recall its kind of oily/resinous. Your friend may want to wipe the surface to be glued with denatured alcohol or some other agent to reduce the natural oils on the surface. This should hopefully help the bonding process. Like any gluing procedure, too much glue and the bond is weak, not enough glue and the joint is starved. Take a close look at the seperation to see if there was a enough even glue coverage or if there was too much glue or not enough glue at all. When using the CA, don't use too much activator, as this too can weaken the bonding strength of the glue joint. To increase the strength of the glue joint, a good method would be to turn a recess in the work piece and a mating tenon on the scrap block. Doesn't have to be very deep, but it will greatly increase the strength of the glue joint. They do however have to match up in order to be most effective. Hope this helps. --Jim M. |
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