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gary c
 
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Default Blanks separating from faceplate blocks

Hi Jim.

In looking at his separated blocks, the glue coverage looks about perfect.
He isn't using any activator, other than the moisture in the blanks. I'll
pass along the suggestions on reducing the oils and trying a tenon.

I think one difference in our techniques is that I use a single center-screw
faceplate, and true up the bottom of my pieces - then glue the block to the
bottom. I believe he mounts his blocks before he initial mounts the piece.

Gary


"Jim M" wrote in message
...
Hi Gary,
I don't turn much Koa, but have used a board or two of it before. As I
recall its kind of oily/resinous. Your friend may want to wipe the surface
to be glued with denatured alcohol or some other agent to reduce the

natural
oils on the surface. This should hopefully help the bonding process. Like
any gluing procedure, too much glue and the bond is weak, not enough glue
and the joint is starved. Take a close look at the seperation to see if
there was a enough even glue coverage or if there was too much glue or not
enough glue at all.
When using the CA, don't use too much activator, as this too can

weaken
the bonding strength of the glue joint.
To increase the strength of the glue joint, a good method would be to
turn a recess in the work piece and a mating tenon on the scrap block.
Doesn't have to be very deep, but it will greatly increase the strength of
the glue joint. They do however have to match up in order to be most
effective.
Hope this helps.
--Jim M.






 
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