Blanks separating from faceplate blocks
 

I have a friend who is having a difficult time keeping blanks on the little
blocks that his faceplate screws into. He has tried double-sided tape,
yellow glue, gorilla glue, and most recently, thick hotstuff.

He gets his blanks shaped round, and as soon as he starts to hollow the
insides, they come off. I've seen some of blanks after they've popped
loose. The surface is pretty flat, and it looks like he has applied a
generous filet of glue. We're talking about objects from six to nine inches
in diameter.

The wood is Koa, ranging from near-dripping to dry enough to finish turn on
the first go around. He's not turning at over 1000rpm. I've been using the
same stock, and haven't had a single blank come loose. I use hotstuff
exclusively.

We live in different cities, so I haven't had a chance to observe in-person.
He has been to my shop, and feels he is doing nothing different than what I
do. Any ideas and/or experience on what might be causing this to happen?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Blanks separating from faceplate blocks
 

I have been using hot melt glue for years, The cheap stuff works fine... I
heat it in a electric frying pan, then dip the waste block attached to the
faceplate into the glue, then apply it to the bowl blank... I have help bowl
blanks over 4 foot in diameter using this method and only ever had one come
off in 12 years of professional turning.... If hte wood is we, then dry the
bottom of the bowl with a heat gun frist...... I think you will find photos
of this process on my web site under Woodturning FAQs.... cheers... Have fun
with it.......

--
Ken & Debbie Bullock (Woodturners)

Woodturning videos at:
http://www.oneofakindwoodturnings.com
SKP # 82323



"gary c" wrote in message
...
I have a friend who is having a difficult time keeping blanks on the
little
blocks that his faceplate screws into. He has tried double-sided tape,
yellow glue, gorilla glue, and most recently, thick hotstuff.

He gets his blanks shaped round, and as soon as he starts to hollow the
insides, they come off. I've seen some of blanks after they've popped
loose. The surface is pretty flat, and it looks like he has applied a
generous filet of glue. We're talking about objects from six to nine
inches
in diameter.

The wood is Koa, ranging from near-dripping to dry enough to finish turn
on
the first go around. He's not turning at over 1000rpm. I've been using
the
same stock, and haven't had a single blank come loose. I use hotstuff
exclusively.

We live in different cities, so I haven't had a chance to observe
in-person.
He has been to my shop, and feels he is doing nothing different than what
I
do. Any ideas and/or experience on what might be causing this to happen?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Blanks separating from faceplate blocks
 

On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 16:02:49 -0700, "gary c" wrote:

I have a friend who is having a difficult time keeping blanks on the little
blocks that his faceplate screws into. He has tried double-sided tape,
yellow glue, gorilla glue, and most recently, thick hotstuff.

Sounds like he does not have the surfaces really flat or even concaved
I have not had one come apart in three years of turning the same way
Ken does his hot glue with up to 29" off center burls
Don.

Blanks separating from faceplate blocks
 

Hi Gary,
I don't turn much Koa, but have used a board or two of it before. As I
recall its kind of oily/resinous. Your friend may want to wipe the surface
to be glued with denatured alcohol or some other agent to reduce the natural
oils on the surface. This should hopefully help the bonding process. Like
any gluing procedure, too much glue and the bond is weak, not enough glue
and the joint is starved. Take a close look at the seperation to see if
there was a enough even glue coverage or if there was too much glue or not
enough glue at all.
When using the CA, don't use too much activator, as this too can weaken
the bonding strength of the glue joint.
To increase the strength of the glue joint, a good method would be to
turn a recess in the work piece and a mating tenon on the scrap block.
Doesn't have to be very deep, but it will greatly increase the strength of
the glue joint. They do however have to match up in order to be most
effective.
Hope this helps.
--Jim M.

Blanks separating from faceplate blocks
 

Hey, thanks for the replies.

Hot melt - neat. Have never seen anyone use it before. Can't be more
expensive than the cyano :)

The koa we are using is kinda oily. I don't particularly care for it, but
it is pretty. Lots of figure. And we have access to lots of it, at really
low prices.

I'll pass along everyones suggestions, and see if he can nail down the
cause. I guess if worse comes to worst, he can either use his chuck or deal
with some screw holes...

Thanks again!



"gary c" wrote in message
...
I have a friend who is having a difficult time keeping blanks on the
little
snip

Blanks separating from faceplate blocks
 

Hi Jim.

In looking at his separated blocks, the glue coverage looks about perfect.
He isn't using any activator, other than the moisture in the blanks. I'll
pass along the suggestions on reducing the oils and trying a tenon.

I think one difference in our techniques is that I use a single center-screw
faceplate, and true up the bottom of my pieces - then glue the block to the
bottom. I believe he mounts his blocks before he initial mounts the piece.

Gary


"Jim M" wrote in message
...
Hi Gary,
I don't turn much Koa, but have used a board or two of it before. As I
recall its kind of oily/resinous. Your friend may want to wipe the surface
to be glued with denatured alcohol or some other agent to reduce the
natural
oils on the surface. This should hopefully help the bonding process. Like
any gluing procedure, too much glue and the bond is weak, not enough glue
and the joint is starved. Take a close look at the seperation to see if
there was a enough even glue coverage or if there was too much glue or not
enough glue at all.
When using the CA, don't use too much activator, as this too can
weaken
the bonding strength of the glue joint.
To increase the strength of the glue joint, a good method would be to
turn a recess in the work piece and a mating tenon on the scrap block.
Doesn't have to be very deep, but it will greatly increase the strength of
the glue joint. They do however have to match up in order to be most
effective.
Hope this helps.
--Jim M.

Blanks separating from faceplate blocks
 

Hi Gary, If he didn't use accelerator thats why the bowl came off.
I use medium CA and enough accelerator to just wet the glue block surface and
have never had a turning come off.
I've turned bowls to 20" using this method.
Yellow glue won't work very well on wet wood.
He isn't using any activator, other than the moisture in the blanks.


Bob, Naugatuck Ct.
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com

Blanks separating from faceplate blocks
 

Gary,
If your friend continues to use CA the change the formula just a bit and
Success should be easy.
Begin as noted above and clean the surface with denatured alcohol. Use the
thinnest CA available on both surfaces and then plenty of medium on the
block surface. Press, clamp, and wait. No Accelerator. The thin soaks into
the wood and the medium forms the bond. Works great for end grain also.
This is used much with epoxies in boating.
Don



"gary c" wrote in message
...
Hey, thanks for the replies.

Hot melt - neat. Have never seen anyone use it before. Can't be more
expensive than the cyano :)

The koa we are using is kinda oily. I don't particularly care for it, but
it is pretty. Lots of figure. And we have access to lots of it, at
really
low prices.

I'll pass along everyones suggestions, and see if he can nail down the
cause. I guess if worse comes to worst, he can either use his chuck or
deal
with some screw holes...

Thanks again!



"gary c" wrote in message
...
I have a friend who is having a difficult time keeping blanks on the
little
snip