I'm a chain saw illiterate and have a hard time when cutting the pith
area out of green bowl blanks (2 cuts down through the center area of
firewood chunk). The long strips of 'chips' tend to jam into the base
of the chain area. I'm cut the wood a long the length of the wood with
an electric Remington saw(18 " chain). Are the different types of
teeth/grind/widths available to make this work better?

MinnJim

If you're using a standard chain, what you're doing is using a
crosscut chain for a rip operation. You want a rip chain, much like
you'd want a rip saw to cut with the grain, and a crosscut saw to cut
across it.

Not sure where to get such a chain, though. Might not be worth the
effort/cost for just a few blanks.

I'd guess that more of us (by a wide margin) use standard, basically
crosscut chains for ripping than use ripping chains. I've owned two
saws -- the first jammed up all the time, and the second almost never
jams. The second has enough clearance around the drive sprocket that
the cuttings have a chance to clear themselves. The first was a bit of
a shoehorn job in that area.

Try this when ripping -- hold the back of the saw up a bit higher than
the nose and less 'stuff' will get into the sprocket area. Also, keep
that area clear. It takes a lot less time to clear minor accumulations
more often than a major jam when it happens.

Bill

DJ Delorie wrote:
If you're using a standard chain, what you're doing is using a
crosscut chain for a rip operation. You want a rip chain, much like
you'd want a rip saw to cut with the grain, and a crosscut saw to cut
across it.

Not sure where to get such a chain, though. Might not be worth the
effort/cost for just a few blanks.

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
...
I'd guess that more of us (by a wide margin) use standard, basically
crosscut chains for ripping than use ripping chains. I've owned two
saws -- the first jammed up all the time, and the second almost never
jams. The second has enough clearance around the drive sprocket that the
cuttings have a chance to clear themselves. The first was a bit of a
shoehorn job in that area.

Try this when ripping -- hold the back of the saw up a bit higher than the
nose and less 'stuff' will get into the sprocket area. Also, keep that
area clear. It takes a lot less time to clear minor accumulations more
often than a major jam when it happens.

There's the ticket.

From the description of shavings versus dust, I assume you're doing the task
properly.
http://www.customwooddesign.com/turninggreenwood-1.html It's not ripping
in the classical sense at all.

A rip chain would be a liability, not an asset. What you want to do is what
Bill said, only in an extended sort of way. Keep the chain speed high by
cutting only a bit of the total length at a time. Work the bar see-saw
style if it's long enough to clear both ends so you're taking half the
length or less at any given moment. That will give you best throw/pack
ratio. If the saw slows, stop and run it clear in the air, or, failing that,
clean out the shavings manually after you turn it off. If the bar's shorter
than the piece, set up access at both ends and alternate. Here it's
important to keep the nose up and away from kickback, thus giving more
weight to what Bill says.

Word to the wise on packing shavings and the dust that's mixed with them.
It can interfere with your chain oiling real easily, so when you're doing
your rev up, make sure you're throwing oil at the test object.

Cutting blanks is like everything else in turning, it needs practice. The
long shavings are good but holding the saw at about a 60* angle will hold
them to a reasonable length. The Remington, like most electrics, has too
little room around the drive sprocket for ripping and the long shavings tend
to accumulate and clog the drive. Stop now and then as they gather and clear
them with a couple of runs of the chain or with the saw off and use your
hand. Rip chain is for cutting end grain and you really do not want to do
that.
Try http://aroundthewoods.com/firewood.shtml
and http://aroundthewoods.com/woodenspoonproject1.html
for a couple of hints.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"George" wrote in message
. net...

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
...
I'd guess that more of us (by a wide margin) use standard, basically
crosscut chains for ripping than use ripping chains. I've owned two
saws -- the first jammed up all the time, and the second almost never
jams. The second has enough clearance around the drive sprocket that the
cuttings have a chance to clear themselves. The first was a bit of a
shoehorn job in that area.

Try this when ripping -- hold the back of the saw up a bit higher than
the nose and less 'stuff' will get into the sprocket area. Also, keep
that area clear. It takes a lot less time to clear minor accumulations
more often than a major jam when it happens.

There's the ticket.

From the description of shavings versus dust, I assume you're doing the
task properly.
http://www.customwooddesign.com/turninggreenwood-1.html It's not ripping
in the classical sense at all.

A rip chain would be a liability, not an asset. What you want to do is
what Bill said, only in an extended sort of way. Keep the chain speed
high by cutting only a bit of the total length at a time. Work the bar
see-saw style if it's long enough to clear both ends so you're taking half
the length or less at any given moment. That will give you best
throw/pack ratio. If the saw slows, stop and run it clear in the air, or,
failing that, clean out the shavings manually after you turn it off. If
the bar's shorter than the piece, set up access at both ends and
alternate. Here it's important to keep the nose up and away from
kickback, thus giving more weight to what Bill says.

Word to the wise on packing shavings and the dust that's mixed with them.
It can interfere with your chain oiling real easily, so when you're doing
your rev up, make sure you're throwing oil at the test object.

On Aug 21, 11:15 pm, MinnJim wrote:
I'm a chain saw illiterate and have a hard time when cutting the pith
area out of green bowl blanks (2 cuts down through the center area of
firewood chunk). The long strips of 'chips' tend to jam into the base
of the chain area. I'm cut the wood a long the length of the wood with
an electric Remington saw(18 " chain). Are the different types of
teeth/grind/widths available to make this work better?

MinnJim

I have the same saw and had the same problem. Use the techniques
others have posted and also enlarge th opening in the bottom of the
plastic cover. I used a rotary tool and increased the bottom slot as
much as possible taking care not to cut into any strengthening webs or
lugs. So far so good!

after burning out a whole dozen of the little electric chain saws, like the
poulan and crafstman (never tried remington), I gave up and bought a stihl
with a 20 inch bar - all my saw problems went away. Long shavings don't
clog it, it doesn't burn out in 15 seconds or strip gears, but it does cost
almost 10X as much. the prior saws all failed by having a plastic gear
come loose on the drive shaft - the best one worked for about 30 minutes,
the worst didn't make 5 seconds (and no, I wasn't pushing hard, just cutting
full bar length). So, if you don't want to go for the deluxe saws, the
moral is don't cut more than 1/2 bar length at any time.





"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message
news:vqUyi.303$Pd4.256@edtnps82...
Cutting blanks is like everything else in turning, it needs practice. The
long shavings are good but holding the saw at about a 60* angle will hold
them to a reasonable length. The Remington, like most electrics, has too
little room around the drive sprocket for ripping and the long shavings
tend to accumulate and clog the drive. Stop now and then as they gather
and clear them with a couple of runs of the chain or with the saw off and
use your hand. Rip chain is for cutting end grain and you really do not
want to do that.
Try http://aroundthewoods.com/firewood.shtml
and http://aroundthewoods.com/woodenspoonproject1.html
for a couple of hints.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"George" wrote in message
. net...

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
...
I'd guess that more of us (by a wide margin) use standard, basically
crosscut chains for ripping than use ripping chains. I've owned two
saws -- the first jammed up all the time, and the second almost never
jams. The second has enough clearance around the drive sprocket that
the cuttings have a chance to clear themselves. The first was a bit of
a shoehorn job in that area.

Try this when ripping -- hold the back of the saw up a bit higher than
the nose and less 'stuff' will get into the sprocket area. Also, keep
that area clear. It takes a lot less time to clear minor accumulations
more often than a major jam when it happens.

There's the ticket.

From the description of shavings versus dust, I assume you're doing the
task properly.
http://www.customwooddesign.com/turninggreenwood-1.html It's not
ripping in the classical sense at all.

A rip chain would be a liability, not an asset. What you want to do is
what Bill said, only in an extended sort of way. Keep the chain speed
high by cutting only a bit of the total length at a time. Work the bar
see-saw style if it's long enough to clear both ends so you're taking
half the length or less at any given moment. That will give you best
throw/pack ratio. If the saw slows, stop and run it clear in the air, or,
failing that, clean out the shavings manually after you turn it off. If
the bar's shorter than the piece, set up access at both ends and
alternate. Here it's important to keep the nose up and away from
kickback, thus giving more weight to what Bill says.

Word to the wise on packing shavings and the dust that's mixed with them.
It can interfere with your chain oiling real easily, so when you're doing
your rev up, make sure you're throwing oil at the test object.





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

MinnJim wrote:
I'm a chain saw illiterate and have a hard time when cutting the pith
area out of green bowl blanks (2 cuts down through the center area of
firewood chunk). The long strips of 'chips' tend to jam into the base
of the chain area. I'm cut the wood a long the length of the wood with
an electric Remington saw(18 " chain). Are the different types of
teeth/grind/widths available to make this work better?

MinnJim

Your best bet is to simply explain to your wife that you need a new saw
for 'technical reasons'. I'd recommend either a Husky or Stihl with a
20" bar, or if you have a bit more experience with a saw, a 24" bar. I
have a Stihl 031AV that I bought in '76. Just has a 20" bar and many
times I've wanted the extra length. Problem is, it still runs fine so I
don't have enough of an excuse to replace it yet! :-)

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

A reminder: getting a new Stihl saw you should get the bar length you want.
Most Stihls are shipped to the dealer as a powerhead only, no bar. They add
a standard bar or you can upgrade for a small additional price. This is
much cheaper than buying a new bar & chain later.

Thanks for all the replies. My wife doesn't understand "technical",
especially concerning my "tool collection"!! I'll keep working with
the electric Remington and try the suggestions everyone kindly helped
with.

MinnJim

hello dare minn jim
i ran jonserds from the late 60's til the late 90's. then started
running husky's. i don't cut timber like i did for many years for a
living, but do enough firewood to heat my house and shop here in
mnnesota. anywho the husky's a really good saw as far as i'm concerned.
ross
www.highislandexport.com