All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest to
many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will be a
small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by products
on the market which clearly have not been used by their manufacturers or
where the manufacturers just don't seem to understand what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest to
many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will be a
small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by products
on the market which clearly have not been used by their manufacturers or
where the manufacturers just don't seem to understand what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

Why screw-on instead of MT?

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Abstinence makes the heart grow fonder.





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Read it and if that doesn't answer it, I'll do it here.

Bill

Gerald Ross wrote:
Bill Rubenstein wrote:
All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest to
many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will be
a small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by
products on the market which clearly have not been used by their
manufacturers or where the manufacturers just don't seem to understand
what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

Why screw-on instead of MT?

Sorry, I only looked down to the price page and thought I was at the
bottom of the document.


Bill Rubenstein wrote:
Read it and if that doesn't answer it, I'll do it here.

Bill

Gerald Ross wrote:
Bill Rubenstein wrote:
All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest to
many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will be
a small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by
products on the market which clearly have not been used by their
manufacturers or where the manufacturers just don't seem to understand
what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

Why screw-on instead of MT?



--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Abstinence makes the heart grow fonder.





----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

I should have done a better job answering the question.

I believe that the Morse taper was designed for spindle turning and that
the bearing surface just isn't sufficient for the kinds of stuff many of
us are doing. For big blanks there is no substitute (IMHO) for the
positive drive you can get from a screw-on device. Also, it is easier
on the lathe.

The large diameter of the drive allows one to get pretty aggressive
(only if one wants -- Ruth!) without it digging a hole in the end of
your piece and going off-center.

Most who have used a good screw-on drive center say they'd never go back
to the old way. I'm one of those. But, this is a better drive center
than I owned up until now and costs less.

Bill

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
Read it and if that doesn't answer it, I'll do it here.

Bill

Gerald Ross wrote:
Bill Rubenstein wrote:
All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest
to many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will
be a small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by
products on the market which clearly have not been used by their
manufacturers or where the manufacturers just don't seem to
understand what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

Why screw-on instead of MT?

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
t...
For big blanks there is no substitute (IMHO) for the
positive drive you can get from a screw-on device. Also, it is easier on
the lathe.

Save, of course the pin chuck. Pretty, but outta my price league, and won't
hold the blank to do the mortise like the pin will.

Are you going to make one for the chucks so that we don't have to screw
it on and off?
robo hippy
George wrote:
"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
t...
For big blanks there is no substitute (IMHO) for the
positive drive you can get from a screw-on device. Also, it is easier on
the lathe.

Save, of course the pin chuck. Pretty, but outta my price league, and won't
hold the blank to do the mortise like the pin will.

On 10/17/06 2:16 PM, in article
, "robo hippy"
wrote:

Are you going to make one for the chucks so that we don't have to screw
it on and off?
robo hippy
There is one made for chucks. Look he

http://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/2flutquiccha.html

Bob Greenblatt

"Bob Greenblatt" wrote in message
...
On 10/17/06 2:16 PM, in article
, "robo hippy"
wrote:

Are you going to make one for the chucks so that we don't have to screw
it on and off?
robo hippy
There is one made for chucks. Look he

http://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/2flutquiccha.html


Doesn't that picture scare you half to death? Loose bark, face grain, and
out of balance. Not to mention cutting around the headstock where the push
loosens the spurs!

Bill Rubenstein writes:

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

I'm on Linux with Firefox, and I cannot read the 4 lines to the left
of the picture. I think the font used was not included in the PDF.

All I see are squares and several "4" characters.


--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

Bruce:

Hm.... Microsoft publisher strikes again. I also use Firefox (on both
XP and Linux) but I have the font on both my systems so didn't notice.
Thanks for the heads up and I'll fix the problem tonight.

I tried to do the document with Scribus but the learning curve was just
too great for now so fell back to MS Publisher.

Bill

Bruce Barnett wrote:
Bill Rubenstein writes:

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

I'm on Linux with Firefox, and I cannot read the 4 lines to the left
of the picture. I think the font used was not included in the PDF.

All I see are squares and several "4" characters.

Bruce:

Can you please see if I've fixed the problem?

Bill

Bruce Barnett wrote:
Bill Rubenstein writes:

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

I'm on Linux with Firefox, and I cannot read the 4 lines to the left
of the picture. I think the font used was not included in the PDF.

All I see are squares and several "4" characters.

Hi Bill

Looks like a nice product Bill

I guess every blade is adjustable and replaceable ?? as is the center
pin.

There's only one question mark so to speak in my mind, the aluminium
might be a problem if one is to install and remove the spur center a
lot, as I'm sure you are aware of that aluminium does like to cease up
if one's not careful.

Is it possible to install an insert made from steel or other, and then
in different thread configurations, as is done with the better wood
chucks ?? Yes it will make for a larger product, but would that hurt
??, also considering only the insert would have to be made for all the
different threads, just a thought.

Anyway good luck with your product, and thanks for giving woodturners
another weapon in their arsenal so to speak, to have and use.

Have fun and take cxare
Leo Van Der Loo

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest to
many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will be a
small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by products
on the market which clearly have not been used by their manufacturers or
where the manufacturers just don't seem to understand what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

The problem I have with the chuck mounted spur drives is that you lose
quite a bit of length. I turn on a shortbed machine and don't want to
give up that space.

Bill

Bob Greenblatt wrote:
On 10/17/06 2:16 PM, in article
, "robo hippy"
wrote:

Are you going to make one for the chucks so that we don't have to screw
it on and off?
robo hippy
There is one made for chucks. Look he

http://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/2flutquiccha.html

Bob Greenblatt

Leo:

I think with a little care there shouldn't be a problem because of the
aluminum. Remember that the back beds against the flat on the spindle.
Also there is a rebate at the end of the thread which indexes on the
unthreaded end of the spindle. The threads are just there to get it to
the point where it locks and then there really isn't much in the way of
force on them.

If one is worried, one could use a little lubrication on the threads
which isn't a bad idea, maybe for any threaded accessory.

The blades are threaded not the aluminum body. So, the blades lock in
at one location. In other words, the blades are pulled against the body
rather than pushed against it. That way there is no chance of them
flying out unexpectedly.

The center point is held in by a grub screw and there is plenty of
length for whatever extension one is comfortable with.

Bill

wrote:
Hi Bill

Looks like a nice product Bill

I guess every blade is adjustable and replaceable ?? as is the center
pin.

There's only one question mark so to speak in my mind, the aluminium
might be a problem if one is to install and remove the spur center a
lot, as I'm sure you are aware of that aluminium does like to cease up
if one's not careful.

Is it possible to install an insert made from steel or other, and then
in different thread configurations, as is done with the better wood
chucks ?? Yes it will make for a larger product, but would that hurt
??, also considering only the insert would have to be made for all the
different threads, just a thought.

Anyway good luck with your product, and thanks for giving woodturners
another weapon in their arsenal so to speak, to have and use.

Have fun and take cxare
Leo Van Der Loo

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest to
many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will be a
small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by products
on the market which clearly have not been used by their manufacturers or
where the manufacturers just don't seem to understand what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

Bill Rubenstein writes:

Bruce:

Can you please see if I've fixed the problem?

Yup. All better!

--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

I have talked to several woodturnings in the Arizona Woodturners
Association, that feel the two prong drive center is a lot stronger
than the four prong. It also has less problems with stripping out
because the force is at two points instead of four.

What are your feelings in this area.

Art

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest to
many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will be a
small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by products
on the market which clearly have not been used by their manufacturers or
where the manufacturers just don't seem to understand what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

Just my feelings -- nothing scientific...

While I suspect that the major use of this drive is for green blanks,
some are harder than others. In a harder wood, it might make sense to
use just 2 blades so that they can be driven in farther than you would
be able to with 4 blades. They'd go in especially nicely if aligned
with the grain.

But, one major advantage of using two over four is that it is easier to
adjust the orientation of the blank as things develop and you see that
you don't have it oriented optimally.

Anyway, that is one of the major reasons I designed it the way I did and
call it a convertible drive center. Run with 2, run with 4, run with 3
if you like, or none. I would get a magnetic dish, though, so you don't
lose the blades and bolts when they are out.

BTW, I think that a 6-blade drive is wrong-headed and can't think of any
use for it at all.

Bill

Desert Rat wrote:
I have talked to several woodturnings in the Arizona Woodturners
Association, that feel the two prong drive center is a lot stronger
than the four prong. It also has less problems with stripping out
because the force is at two points instead of four.

What are your feelings in this area.

Art

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest to
many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will be a
small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by products
on the market which clearly have not been used by their manufacturers or
where the manufacturers just don't seem to understand what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

George wrote:
"Save, of course the pin chuck. Pretty, but outta my price league,
and won't
hold the blank to do the mortise like the pin will."

First I'd like to say I saw this drive center in TX and am quite
impressed with the whole design. Personally, if I'm turning a heavy
bowl blank, having the center screwed on to the spindle seems to be the
most secure. As to the one posted that fits into your chuck, I know
someone who used it and it worked perfect........until it started
slipping in the jaws and he had to keep retightening it while working
because the steady banging when rounding the larger blanks.

George, what "pin chuck" are you referring to? Just curious.

Ruth
www.torne-lignum.com

I agree with Bill on the use of 2 prongs over 4. When I saw his new
drive center, my first reaction was "oh wow, now I don't have to grind
off 2 of the prongs!" which is what I do with every drive center I
have.

As Bill said, using 3 is an advantage with really lopsided wood and you
won't need to spend time chiseling out a flat area on the wood. You
really have to hold one of these to appreciate the quality. Yes, it's
a bit expensive, but you're not buying one a month. It is, after all,
a quality "tool".

I'm not getting paid to say any of this (darn!).

Take care,
Ruth
www.torne-lignum.com





Bill Rubenstein wrote:
Just my feelings -- nothing scientific...

While I suspect that the major use of this drive is for green blanks,
some are harder than others. In a harder wood, it might make sense to
use just 2 blades so that they can be driven in farther than you would
be able to with 4 blades. They'd go in especially nicely if aligned
with the grain.

But, one major advantage of using two over four is that it is easier to
adjust the orientation of the blank as things develop and you see that
you don't have it oriented optimally.

Anyway, that is one of the major reasons I designed it the way I did and
call it a convertible drive center. Run with 2, run with 4, run with 3
if you like, or none. I would get a magnetic dish, though, so you don't
lose the blades and bolts when they are out.

BTW, I think that a 6-blade drive is wrong-headed and can't think of any
use for it at all.

Bill

Desert Rat wrote:
I have talked to several woodturnings in the Arizona Woodturners
Association, that feel the two prong drive center is a lot stronger
than the four prong. It also has less problems with stripping out
because the force is at two points instead of four.

What are your feelings in this area.

Art

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
All:

This is a commercial message.

I've developed a new product and think that it could be of interest to
many turners who own lathes with a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle.

If you own one of these, please take a look at
http://www.stubbylatheusa.com/Produc...enterFlyer.pdf

This drive center is made here and is the first of what I hope will be a
small product line of superior items. I've been frustrated by products
on the market which clearly have not been used by their manufacturers or
where the manufacturers just don't seem to understand what we want and need.

Bill Rubenstein
Stubby Lathe USA, Inc.
Web: www.stubbylatheusa.com
Email:

wrote in message
ups.com...

George wrote:
"Save, of course the pin chuck. Pretty, but outta my price league,
and won't
hold the blank to do the mortise like the pin will."

First I'd like to say I saw this drive center in TX and am quite
impressed with the whole design. Personally, if I'm turning a heavy
bowl blank, having the center screwed on to the spindle seems to be the
most secure. As to the one posted that fits into your chuck, I know
someone who used it and it worked perfect........until it started
slipping in the jaws and he had to keep retightening it while working
because the steady banging when rounding the larger blanks.

George, what "pin chuck" are you referring to? Just curious.

http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners/georgesalbum.msnw

Never cams out and flings wet or soft wood like a pronged center, allows you
to make a mortise or tenon for reversing, and provides the center to begin
with when re-turning a dry blank.

Cousin the pin jaws are also illustrated. The jaws are Teknatool, with no
sharp spots to tear up the interior and make exact remounting impossible.

An elegantly designed beautifully manufactured tool, made for use. Not
at all its equal for serious bowl turners, but 'faceplate chucks' can
be useful. Nothing but short bolts bolted thru a faceplate.

Most turners just grind points on the tips of the bolts, but I find that
grinding a tiny single bevel edge gives a better grip. I have a
dedicated heavy 2 in. drive plate, but temporarily adding 2 or more
bolts to an ordinary faceplate doesn't destroy its original use. Also
the bolts need not be on the same radius so they can grip & drive on
different sections of the blank.

Sears used to sell a heavy drive plate with loosely insertable single
bevel pins that kept falling out til I lost them.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

I don't know about you, but I would be extremely reluctant to put a 200
pound blank on a chuck like that. A between centers spur drive is far less
likely to fail and the two point support (drive and tail) really helps keep
the wood from flying around. In fact, I can't see where I would use a pin
chuck - by the time I'm ready for a chuck, I can just use a standard chuck
with jaws - what am I missing here?


"George" wrote in message
t...

wrote in message
ups.com...

George wrote:
"Save, of course the pin chuck. Pretty, but outta my price league,
and won't
hold the blank to do the mortise like the pin will."




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

William Noble wrote:
I don't know about you, but I would be extremely reluctant to put a 200
pound blank on a chuck like that. A between centers spur drive is far less
likely to fail and the two point support (drive and tail) really helps keep
the wood from flying around. In fact, I can't see where I would use a pin
chuck - by the time I'm ready for a chuck, I can just use a standard chuck
with jaws - what am I missing here?


Not answering for George, but I use a nova chuck with pin jaws. These
are 1 inch long and 1 inch diameter closed. Instead of using a faceplate
for initial roughing the outside, I drill a 1 1/8 hole and slip it on
those jaws, using tailstock support. Works real fast and when it is
balanced and shaped, just back away the tailstock and turn the dovetail
recess. I imagine his 1 inch pin chuck would work just as well.

I do have a real pin chuck, but it is only 3/8 inch and I use it for
bottle stoppers and such.


--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Accidents don't just happen; they must
be carelessly planned.





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"William Noble" wrote in message
.. .
I don't know about you, but I would be extremely reluctant to put a 200
pound blank on a chuck like that. A between centers spur drive is far less
likely to fail and the two point support (drive and tail) really helps keep
the wood from flying around. In fact, I can't see where I would use a pin
chuck - by the time I'm ready for a chuck, I can just use a standard chuck
with jaws - what am I missing here?

Pretty much everything, it would appear. Imagine your four frail jaws which
penetate perhaps a quarter inch replaced by a robust 2" long 1" thick steel
extension of your spindle and you'll get some idea of the capabilities.

Anyone who doesn't use a tailstock until working the place where it beds,
regardless the method is not being as safe as they can be, so once again,
the pin chuck and tailstock are certainly MUCH more resistant to lateral
stress than something which has to seat itself into wood which is perhaps
damp, at shallow depth, and perhaps even along the grain when you whack the
toolrest with that knot you didn't see and dismount the whole. Matter of
fact, the spurs along the grain are essentially worthless, which is why the
two-fanged varieties which can go across the grain, taking the stress on
endgrain are so commonly used.

So bore a 1" hole into your blank, regardless the surface, tap it up on the
chuck and engage the tailstock. Never a chance of a dismount.

Hi George

You must have one of those dinky jaws then, Have a look at the Oneway
spigot jaws, they go at least one inch deep in there, and hold al the
way around, not like that little piece of nail in your pinchuck, that's
chewing the wood on one side, and might have no hold at all in that
soft wet wood, you where talking about.

Just to make it easy, here's a link, have a look, you might learn
something yet.

http://www.oneway.on.ca/chucks/acces...pigot_jaws.htm

George wrote:

Pretty much everything, it would appear. Imagine your four frail jaws which
penetate perhaps a quarter inch

My major problem with using a pin chuck is the same as for using a
faceplate -- once you have drilled the hole you have decided where the
center of the piece is going to be and also the orientation. As things
develop, defects are exposed, or pattern manifests itself, you are a
helpless bystander -- it is very difficult to change anything.

When starting between centers it is easy to reorient the wood when you
find you have not made the best choice. You can marvel at the beautiful
orientation in the pieces done by people like John Jordan but you cannot
duplicate it. He doesn't have x-ray vision, he starts between centers
and adjusts as he goes.

Bill

George wrote:

"William Noble" wrote in message
.. .
I don't know about you, but I would be extremely reluctant to put a
200 pound blank on a chuck like that. A between centers spur drive is
far less likely to fail and the two point support (drive and tail)
really helps keep the wood from flying around. In fact, I can't see
where I would use a pin chuck - by the time I'm ready for a chuck, I
can just use a standard chuck with jaws - what am I missing here?

Pretty much everything, it would appear. Imagine your four frail jaws
which penetate perhaps a quarter inch replaced by a robust 2" long 1"
thick steel extension of your spindle and you'll get some idea of the
capabilities.

Anyone who doesn't use a tailstock until working the place where it
beds, regardless the method is not being as safe as they can be, so once
again, the pin chuck and tailstock are certainly MUCH more resistant to
lateral stress than something which has to seat itself into wood which
is perhaps damp, at shallow depth, and perhaps even along the grain when
you whack the toolrest with that knot you didn't see and dismount the
whole. Matter of fact, the spurs along the grain are essentially
worthless, which is why the two-fanged varieties which can go across the
grain, taking the stress on endgrain are so commonly used.

So bore a 1" hole into your blank, regardless the surface, tap it up on
the chuck and engage the tailstock. Never a chance of a dismount.

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
t...
My major problem with using a pin chuck is the same as for using a
faceplate -- once you have drilled the hole you have decided where the
center of the piece is going to be and also the orientation. As things
develop, defects are exposed, or pattern manifests itself, you are a
helpless bystander -- it is very difficult to change anything.

When starting between centers it is easy to reorient the wood when you
find you have not made the best choice. You can marvel at the beautiful
orientation in the pieces done by people like John Jordan but you cannot
duplicate it. He doesn't have x-ray vision, he starts between centers and
adjusts as he goes.


Well, of course the turner's eye can fail him occasionally, even if reading
the wood is a part of the art of turning. Sometimes you cut too far and
delve into a bark pocket or just have plain bad luck.

Fortunately there's an easy answer. Plug the old hole, drill a new one in
the desired orientation and begin turning as you did before. The hole is,
after all, something that will disappear when you're done hollowing, so
neatness doesn't count.

Those who are not institututionally biased will, of course recognize that
the roll pin is just that, a pin designed to resist the roll of the piece.
With soft wet woods I hedge my bets by starting the piece in motion to
reduce the starting shock. You know, the same starting shock that chews the
spurs out of the same soft wet wood, or chews the tenon up even worse by
gnawing them with toothed pieces of metal. If you have soft start, probably
don't need to bother, but it's a easy thing to do anyway. I can have the
piece turned, the mortise cut, embellished and sanded, even have the piece
hollowed around the pin chuck pillar and decide to go back and reshape the
bottom. I just mount the pin chuck in the same _undamaged_ and perfectly
centered hole and begin turning the outside again.

Why destroy your centering, mounting and recentering capability when you
don't need to? Or give up a center mark if you're turning between 'em?

"George" wrote: (clip) Fortunately there's an easy answer. Plug the old
hole, drill a new one in the desired orientation and begin turning as you
did before. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If you want to make a small adjustment on a spur center, it's just a matter
of backing off tailstock pressure and making an incremental adjustment. You
have the opportunity to do this more than once, even, without much
difficulty. Removing the wood from the lathe, turning a plug and redrilling
is a lot more work, but more important: how do you establish the location
for the new hole?

Also, if it is a lot of work to make the change, it is tempting to avoid
doing it, especially making small incremental changes.

It is a nuisance trying to make very small moved on a spur drive, because it
wants to keep going back into the same notches. I'd like to know how others
deal with this.

Since we're talking about large pieces, I would like to suggest a method I
find useful--place an automotive scissor jack under the wood to hold the
weight before releasing the tailstock pressure. Then use the jack to raise
the wood to the new center line. Lot easier than trying to support a heavy
piece with one hand while making all the other moves.

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...
Removing the wood from the lathe, turning a plug and redrilling
is a lot more work, but more important: how do you establish the location
for the new hole?


Well, haven't done it a lot myself. Having taken wood apart by the cord
over the years, I find I'm a pretty good judge of what's there. When I did,
I drew a line where I wanted the new axis, shimmed it under the drillpress
and bored the hole.

Haven't caught one in the chops, ever, since even when I used the spur
center and its pathetic grip, I counterbored about a half inch to make sure
it could slip, but not flop. Not even a face mask is gonna save you from
"the big one."

"George" wrote: (clip) when I used the spur center and its pathetic grip,
I counterbored about a half inch to make sure it could slip, but not flop.
(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Actually, that is a very good idea. In a way, you were evolving the spur
center into a pin chuck.

Bill R., how about a new procuct: a pin chuck with a spur drive on the end,
so the floating pin is eliminated?

"Leo Lichtman" wrote
It is a nuisance trying to make very small moved on a spur drive, because
it
wants to keep going back into the same notches. I'd like to know how
others
deal with this.

Leo
Try putting a shot of hot glue in the notches from the sour center before
inserting to the new place. I am not sure if the heat from the glue swells
the fibers or the glue itself is strong enough for the new hold but it seems
to work the few times I have tried it.

God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com