I'm very confused by finish.
I use the shellawax friction polish system along with EEE.
I'm hearing that I should using sanding sealer inbetween coats after the
600 grit stage to help things out.
I see many kinds of sanding sealer on the market...
BLO
Deft
Minwax
Mylands
but nobody seems to know for sure which one and why. The minwax takes 2
hours to dry it says. BLO says wipe on and then wipe off excess.
I'd really appreciate some structure on this. Ideally I'd like a mirror
finish on my pens, but want the 'feel' of wood too. So i've been
steering away from CA/BLO as a finish.

Troy

Troy wrote:
I'm very confused by finish.
I use the shellawax friction polish system along with EEE.
I'm hearing that I should using sanding sealer inbetween coats after the
600 grit stage to help things out.
I see many kinds of sanding sealer on the market...
BLO
Deft
Minwax
Mylands
but nobody seems to know for sure which one and why. The minwax takes 2
hours to dry it says. BLO says wipe on and then wipe off excess.
I'd really appreciate some structure on this. Ideally I'd like a mirror
finish on my pens, but want the 'feel' of wood too. So i've been
steering away from CA/BLO as a finish.

Troy

For that nice polished finish your talking about I do two completely
different types of finish. Sometimes I use the eee and shellawax, are
you using the cream or liquid? You should use the liquid.
The other one I like better for durability is blo and then turners
polish. I found the turners polish alone, and the eee and shellawax
don't last long. I will say I stop just short of abuse of my pens. The
other thing I do is beall buff them.

" wrote in
ps.com:


Troy wrote:
I'm very confused by finish.
I use the shellawax friction polish system along with EEE.
I'm hearing that I should using sanding sealer inbetween coats after
the 600 grit stage to help things out.
I see many kinds of sanding sealer on the market...
BLO
Deft
Minwax
Mylands
but nobody seems to know for sure which one and why. The minwax
takes 2 hours to dry it says. BLO says wipe on and then wipe off
excess. I'd really appreciate some structure on this. Ideally I'd
like a mirror finish on my pens, but want the 'feel' of wood too. So
i've been steering away from CA/BLO as a finish.

Troy

For that nice polished finish your talking about I do two completely
different types of finish. Sometimes I use the eee and shellawax, are
you using the cream or liquid? You should use the liquid.
The other one I like better for durability is blo and then turners
polish. I found the turners polish alone, and the eee and shellawax
don't last long. I will say I stop just short of abuse of my pens. The
other thing I do is beall buff them.



Well, to add to the conversation and perhaps the confusion, I use a
homemade polish consisting of equal parts shellac, denatured alchol and
BLO. Shake well before using, then apply several coats with lathe
turning at high speed. This is similar to a french polish and or
shellwax. I like it for the feel and ease of use. It seems to standup to
the daily use of everyday pens.

Troy
Another word for finishing IS confusion :-) I like to use a 50/50 mix of
vegetable and mineral oils on a pen, buffing at high speed as the pen is
still on the lathe, followed a couple coats of turner's polish such as Hut's
or my home made version of 2 parts 1 lb cut shellac and 1 part pure tung
oil. Incidentally, the polish of 1 part shellac, 1 part alcohol, and 1 part
boiled linseed oil works the same except the color is a little different. I
think most shellacs on the shelf are two pound cut so adding the alcohol
just gives a one pound cut, I think. Any correction is welcome. This shellac
business has always confused me. I just mix it so the stuff works.O, polish
and dry it on the lathe.
______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"Karl B" wrote in message
7.136...
" wrote in
ps.com:


Troy wrote:
I'm very confused by finish.
I use the shellawax friction polish system along with EEE.
I'm hearing that I should using sanding sealer inbetween coats after
the 600 grit stage to help things out.
I see many kinds of sanding sealer on the market...
BLO
Deft
Minwax
Mylands
but nobody seems to know for sure which one and why. The minwax
takes 2 hours to dry it says. BLO says wipe on and then wipe off
excess. I'd really appreciate some structure on this. Ideally I'd
like a mirror finish on my pens, but want the 'feel' of wood too. So
i've been steering away from CA/BLO as a finish.

Troy

For that nice polished finish your talking about I do two completely
different types of finish. Sometimes I use the eee and shellawax, are
you using the cream or liquid? You should use the liquid.
The other one I like better for durability is blo and then turners
polish. I found the turners polish alone, and the eee and shellawax
don't last long. I will say I stop just short of abuse of my pens. The
other thing I do is beall buff them.



Well, to add to the conversation and perhaps the confusion, I use a
homemade polish consisting of equal parts shellac, denatured alchol and
BLO. Shake well before using, then apply several coats with lathe
turning at high speed. This is similar to a french polish and or
shellwax. I like it for the feel and ease of use. It seems to standup to
the daily use of everyday pens.

wrote:
Troy wrote:

For that nice polished finish your talking about I do two completely
different types of finish. Sometimes I use the eee and shellawax, are
you using the cream or liquid? You should use the liquid.
The other one I like better for durability is blo and then turners
polish. I found the turners polish alone, and the eee and shellawax
don't last long. I will say I stop just short of abuse of my pens. The
other thing I do is beall buff them.

I wasn't using EEE before, but just got a jar of it the other day.
I use Shellawax Liguid.
The steps I've been using are....

turn
Sand @ 150
Sand @ 220
Sand @ 320
wet sand 400
Wet Sand 800
0000 Steel Wool
Wet Sand 1000
Wet Sand 1500
Wet Sand 2000
Wet Sand 2500
Wipe
0000 Steel Wool
Shellawax Liguid x 3 coats.

I'm thinking now I need to make some changes....
Turn
Sand@ 150
tack
Sand @ 220
tack
Sand @ 320
tack
Sand @ 400 ( all with J papers from the white box )
tack
Sand @ 600 w/d but sand dry
tack
0000 Steel Wool
tack
BLO
Sand @ 800 w/d but sand dry
tack
blo
Sand @ 1000 w/d but sand dry
tack
blo
sand @ 1500 w/d but sand dry
tack
blo
sand @ 2000 w/d but sand dry
tack
blo
Sand @ 2500 w/d but sand dry
tack
EEE
Shellawax till smokes! ( before I just did it till warm. )
EEE
Wipe
shellawax
EEE
Wipe
Shellawax

What do you think of this? I almost bought Mylands Cellulouse sealer
but @ $16/qt its awful expensive. I was able to get a gallon of BLO for
$10 at Lowes the other day because it was misshelved.

Troy

Karl B wrote:
" wrote in
ps.com:


Well, to add to the conversation and perhaps the confusion, I use a
homemade polish consisting of equal parts shellac, denatured alchol and
BLO. Shake well before using, then apply several coats with lathe
turning at high speed. This is similar to a french polish and or
shellwax. I like it for the feel and ease of use. It seems to standup to
the daily use of everyday pens.
I have DNA also. LOL I got more tools then I know how to use

Troy

Darrell Feltmate wrote:
Troy
Another word for finishing IS confusion :-) I like to use a 50/50 mix of
vegetable and mineral oils on a pen, buffing at high speed as the pen is
still on the lathe, followed a couple coats of turner's polish such as Hut's
or my home made version of 2 parts 1 lb cut shellac and 1 part pure tung
oil. Incidentally, the polish of 1 part shellac, 1 part alcohol, and 1 part
boiled linseed oil works the same except the color is a little different. I
think most shellacs on the shelf are two pound cut so adding the alcohol
just gives a one pound cut, I think. Any correction is welcome. This shellac
business has always confused me. I just mix it so the stuff works.O, polish
and dry it on the lathe.
______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"Karl B" wrote in message
7.136...


You may have hit on something Darrel. I haven't changed the belt
position of my 1014VS since I got it. Perhaps I'm not turning it fast
enough because it feels "tacky" for quite a while after I get "done".
I've read that you want the shellawax to just start to smoke if you can.
I've not been getting it anywhere near that hot.

God Bless to you Too
Troy

The place to go is http://www.penturners.org/forum/default.asp?CAT_ID=4

For what you want, I would finish the wood with micro mesh up to 12000 grade
followed by Myland Friction Polish and then a good wax. It is not as durable
as CA/BLO but it is much easier and faster. If the wood has pores, a slurry
of sanding sealer should be used first.


"Troy" wrote in message
...
I'm very confused by finish.
I use the shellawax friction polish system along with EEE.
I'm hearing that I should using sanding sealer inbetween coats after the
600 grit stage to help things out.
I see many kinds of sanding sealer on the market...
BLO
Deft
Minwax
Mylands
but nobody seems to know for sure which one and why. The minwax takes 2
hours to dry it says. BLO says wipe on and then wipe off excess.
I'd really appreciate some structure on this. Ideally I'd like a mirror
finish on my pens, but want the 'feel' of wood too. So i've been steering
away from CA/BLO as a finish.

Troy

Troy
I am not sure how fast to turn a pen but I would generally have the lathe at
2500 rpm or so. For some woods I use 3500. Actually you should slow the
lathe to sand, but I usually do pens in batches so I like to use minimal
tooling and leave the lathe at one speed for turn through finish.

______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"Troy" wrote in message
...
Darrell Feltmate wrote:
Troy
Another word for finishing IS confusion :-) I like to use a 50/50 mix of
vegetable and mineral oils on a pen, buffing at high speed as the pen is
still on the lathe, followed a couple coats of turner's polish such as
Hut's
or my home made version of 2 parts 1 lb cut shellac and 1 part pure tung
oil. Incidentally, the polish of 1 part shellac, 1 part alcohol, and 1
part
boiled linseed oil works the same except the color is a little
different. I
think most shellacs on the shelf are two pound cut so adding the alcohol
just gives a one pound cut, I think. Any correction is welcome. This
shellac
business has always confused me. I just mix it so the stuff works.O,
polish
and dry it on the lathe.
______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"Karl B" wrote in message
7.136...


You may have hit on something Darrel. I haven't changed the belt
position of my 1014VS since I got it. Perhaps I'm not turning it fast
enough because it feels "tacky" for quite a while after I get "done".
I've read that you want the shellawax to just start to smoke if you can.
I've not been getting it anywhere near that hot.

God Bless to you Too
Troy

Darrell Feltmate wrote:
Troy
I am not sure how fast to turn a pen but I would generally have the lathe at
2500 rpm or so. For some woods I use 3500. Actually you should slow the
lathe to sand, but I usually do pens in batches so I like to use minimal
tooling and leave the lathe at one speed for turn through finish.

______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"Troy" wrote in message
...
Hut's
part
different. I
shellac
polish


yep, as I thought, I had it too slow. I had it 1100-2500, so now I
moved it up to the top which is 2600-3900. Glad its electronically
variable
Troy

Yes, get the friction polish hot, thats key