I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and
clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like framing
or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's sells?
Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned with money (up
to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ

I have an old 3/4 horse Cambell Hausfeld that fits the bill well. I think
they are under $200 now. Never mind what I paid for mine :-) or how long ago
:-)

______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"Teejay" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and
clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like
framing
or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's
sells?
Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned with money
(up
to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ

Teejay wrote:
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and
clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like framing
or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's sells?
Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned with money (up
to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ

I can't tell you about brands of compressors but If you can, pipe as
much as possible in stead of relying on hoses. I have four connections
around the shop and one at the garage door for airing up tires etc.
outside.

The "oil-less" models are hyped for their low maintenance, but they are
LOUD! Save your hearing and get one that uses oil. It's not a big deal to
change the oil every year.

"Teejay" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and
clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like
framing or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's
sells? Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned with
money (up to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ

Just a word of warning. Don't buy anything too cheap or small, because
after you have compressed air available in your shop you will find all kinds
of good uses for it and wish you had bought a better compressor. It's
amazing how much you can do with it and you will kick yourself for not
buying one sooner. The oil type compressor lasts longer if you maintain it
and it is much quieter than the oil-less type. A good size to start with is
around 6-8 CFM at 90 PSI. It's big enough easily to run one tool at a time
of almost anything that you might like to run except for a sand blaster. It
will even handle a spray gun. You should be able to easily find one this
size within your $300 budget. Some of the best deals that I've seen lately
were at Tractor Supply but the Borgs have pretty good prices on them too.

--
Charley


"Mark Fisher" net.sbcglobal@fisher_m wrote in message
news
The "oil-less" models are hyped for their low maintenance, but they are
LOUD! Save your hearing and get one that uses oil. It's not a big deal
to
change the oil every year.

"Teejay" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and
clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like
framing or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's
sells? Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned
with
money (up to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ

charley's suggestions are good - note also, buy CFM, don't even look at the
horsepower - I've seen 8 HP comperessors that put out less than my old 2 hp
sears compressor, and that would (at 7.2 cfm) barely keep up with a spray
gun - I have a larger compressor now (Quincy) of the type that one finds in
a commercial outfit - very much nicer - it has a pressurized oiling system
with a real oil pump and a real oil pressure gauge - the sears unit used a
splash system (like a lawm mower engine).



"Charley" wrote in message
...
Just a word of warning. Don't buy anything too cheap or small, because
after you have compressed air available in your shop you will find all
kinds
of good uses for it and wish you had bought a better compressor. It's
amazing how much you can do with it and you will kick yourself for not
buying one sooner. The oil type compressor lasts longer if you maintain it
and it is much quieter than the oil-less type. A good size to start with
is
around 6-8 CFM at 90 PSI. It's big enough easily to run one tool at a time
of almost anything that you might like to run except for a sand blaster.
It
will even handle a spray gun. You should be able to easily find one this
size within your $300 budget. Some of the best deals that I've seen lately
were at Tractor Supply but the Borgs have pretty good prices on them too.

--
Charley






--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

We know they are lying about horse power why would they tell the truth
about CMF ?



On Sun, 17 Sep 2006 22:57:29 -0700, "William Noble"
wrote:

charley's suggestions are good - note also, buy CFM, don't even look at the
horsepower - I've seen 8 HP comperessors that put out less than my old 2 hp
sears compressor, and that would (at 7.2 cfm) barely keep up with a spray
gun - I have a larger compressor now (Quincy) of the type that one finds in
a commercial outfit - very much nicer - it has a pressurized oiling system
with a real oil pump and a real oil pressure gauge - the sears unit used a
splash system (like a lawm mower engine).



"Charley" wrote in message
...
Just a word of warning. Don't buy anything too cheap or small, because
after you have compressed air available in your shop you will find all
kinds
of good uses for it and wish you had bought a better compressor. It's
amazing how much you can do with it and you will kick yourself for not
buying one sooner. The oil type compressor lasts longer if you maintain it
and it is much quieter than the oil-less type. A good size to start with
is
around 6-8 CFM at 90 PSI. It's big enough easily to run one tool at a time
of almost anything that you might like to run except for a sand blaster.
It
will even handle a spray gun. You should be able to easily find one this
size within your $300 budget. Some of the best deals that I've seen lately
were at Tractor Supply but the Borgs have pretty good prices on them too.

--
Charley

I looked at lots of small portable "nailer-sized" compressors. All I wanted
was something big enough to blow off shavings off my lathe and spray finish
on some small items. All it took to change my mind was hearing one of the
small oilless compressors run.

I switched strategies and bought a 6 HP upright oil-lube model with a
60-gallon tank from Home Depot. I can blow shavings all day long before it
ever kicks on. And its quieter when it does run. The trade-off? It ain't
very portable........unless you have a fork lift and a 220 volt extension
cord.


"Charley" wrote in message
...
Just a word of warning. Don't buy anything too cheap or small, because
after you have compressed air available in your shop you will find all
kinds
of good uses for it and wish you had bought a better compressor. It's
amazing how much you can do with it and you will kick yourself for not
buying one sooner. The oil type compressor lasts longer if you maintain it
and it is much quieter than the oil-less type. A good size to start with
is
around 6-8 CFM at 90 PSI. It's big enough easily to run one tool at a time
of almost anything that you might like to run except for a sand blaster.
It
will even handle a spray gun. You should be able to easily find one this
size within your $300 budget. Some of the best deals that I've seen lately
were at Tractor Supply but the Borgs have pretty good prices on them too.

--
Charley


"Mark Fisher" net.sbcglobal@fisher_m wrote in message
news
The "oil-less" models are hyped for their low maintenance, but they are
LOUD! Save your hearing and get one that uses oil. It's not a big deal
to
change the oil every year.

"Teejay" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around
and
clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like
framing or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's
sells? Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned
with
money (up to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ

On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 21:27:19 -0500, "Barry N. Turner"
wrote:

I looked at lots of small portable "nailer-sized" compressors. All I wanted
was something big enough to blow off shavings off my lathe and spray finish
on some small items. All it took to change my mind was hearing one of the
small oilless compressors run.

I switched strategies and bought a 6 HP upright oil-lube model with a
60-gallon tank from Home Depot. I can blow shavings all day long before it
ever kicks on. And its quieter when it does run. The trade-off? It ain't
very portable........unless you have a fork lift and a 220 volt extension
cord.


Barry... how much was the compressor?
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Sept. 2006 American Woodworker has an article on choosing compact
compressors and an article on plumbing your shop with hoses. I have
been looking also and maybe one day I will get one. I have found that
up to 26 to 30 gallon tanks are 110 VAC and above that is 220VAC. Now
my shop doesn't have 220 and I don't see it in the future. I too have
been looking at Lowes and Home Depot. I will keep in mind the 6-8 CMF
at 90 PSI. Good info from everyone, thanks

Bruce

Teejay wrote:
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and
clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like framing
or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's sells?
Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned with money (up
to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ

unless it's really impossible, you should consider getting 220 to where your
tools are - with 220 wire sizes are smaller, the load is better balanced,
and you can get more HP when you need it. I do my own wiring, but unless
the run is long (or you live where you just don't have 220) it should not be
expensive to get 220 to your shop/garage - code permits it everywhere I've
heard of, and if you do some prework even a real electrician should only
charge for an hour or two of work
"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
Sept. 2006 American Woodworker has an article on choosing compact
compressors and an article on plumbing your shop with hoses. I have been
looking also and maybe one day I will get one. I have found that up to 26
to 30 gallon tanks are 110 VAC and above that is 220VAC. Now my shop
doesn't have 220 and I don't see it in the future. I too have been
looking at Lowes and Home Depot. I will keep in mind the 6-8 CMF at 90
PSI. Good info from everyone, thanks

Bruce

Teejay wrote:
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and
clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like
framing or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's
sells? Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned with
money (up to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

I have thought about it, but I would have to get it there as the main is
towards the other end of the house. ( the panel is in the middle of the
house and the garage is on the other side of an enclosed car port, my
office. Conduit would have to be run externally) I would like to have a
sub panel as I run everything off a lighting circuit. Is there a rule
of thumb as how big the sub-panel can be?? The main is 100 amp. I am
guessing you would run your wires and terminate them with a 220 breaker
like for an oven or cloths dryer. What the would be I don't know. Then
the sub panel would have a main and then breakers for your 220 circuits
or 110 circuits. The size of these would depend on the tools attached
to them. Thanks for your input.

Bruce

William Noble wrote:
unless it's really impossible, you should consider getting 220 to where your
tools are - with 220 wire sizes are smaller, the load is better balanced,
and you can get more HP when you need it. I do my own wiring, but unless
the run is long (or you live where you just don't have 220) it should not be
expensive to get 220 to your shop/garage - code permits it everywhere I've
heard of, and if you do some prework even a real electrician should only
charge for an hour or two of work
"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
Sept. 2006 American Woodworker has an article on choosing compact
compressors and an article on plumbing your shop with hoses. I have been
looking also and maybe one day I will get one. I have found that up to 26
to 30 gallon tanks are 110 VAC and above that is 220VAC. Now my shop
doesn't have 220 and I don't see it in the future. I too have been
looking at Lowes and Home Depot. I will keep in mind the 6-8 CMF at 90
PSI. Good info from everyone, thanks

Bruce

Teejay wrote:
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and
clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like
framing or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's
sells? Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned with
money (up to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ

your local electrical codes may vary - what I did was to run heavy wire to
my garage - 8 gauge in fact - I have an old house that didn't have a master
disconnect, so I replaced the breaker panel, added a 50 amp disconnect (2X50
amp breakers) and connected the house and the garage to the mains comming
out of hte master breaker - so my garage has the same power as the house.
cost was small, but I did it myself - I think the wire itself was the most
expensive thing. If you run rigid conduit externally, use 1 inch conduit or
even inch and a half, then burry it - that way it's up to all the codes and
won't bother you by being obvious.
"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
I have thought about it, but I would have to get it there as the main is
towards the other end of the house. ( the panel is in the middle of the
house and the garage is on the other side of an enclosed car port, my
office. Conduit would have to be run externally) I would like to have a
sub panel as I run everything off a lighting circuit. Is there a rule of
thumb as how big the sub-panel can be?? The main is 100 amp. I am guessing
you would run your wires and terminate them with a 220 breaker like for an
oven or cloths dryer. What the would be I don't know. Then the sub panel
would have a main and then breakers for your 220 circuits or 110 circuits.
The size of these would depend on the tools attached to them. Thanks for
your input.

Bruce

William Noble wrote:
unless it's really impossible, you should consider getting 220 to where
your tools are - with 220 wire sizes are smaller, the load is better
balanced, and you can get more HP when you need it. I do my own wiring,
but unless the run is long (or you live where you just don't have 220) it
should not be expensive to get 220 to your shop/garage - code permits it
everywhere I've heard of, and if you do some prework even a real
electrician should only charge for an hour or two of work
"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
Sept. 2006 American Woodworker has an article on choosing compact
compressors and an article on plumbing your shop with hoses. I have
been looking also and maybe one day I will get one. I have found that
up to 26 to 30 gallon tanks are 110 VAC and above that is 220VAC. Now
my shop doesn't have 220 and I don't see it in the future. I too have
been looking at Lowes and Home Depot. I will keep in mind the 6-8 CMF
at 90 PSI. Good info from everyone, thanks

Bruce

Teejay wrote:
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around
and clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like
framing or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's
sells? Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned
with money (up to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

thanks--Bruce

William Noble wrote:
your local electrical codes may vary - what I did was to run heavy wire to
my garage - 8 gauge in fact - I have an old house that didn't have a master
disconnect, so I replaced the breaker panel, added a 50 amp disconnect (2X50
amp breakers) and connected the house and the garage to the mains comming
out of hte master breaker - so my garage has the same power as the house.
cost was small, but I did it myself - I think the wire itself was the most
expensive thing. If you run rigid conduit externally, use 1 inch conduit or
even inch and a half, then burry it - that way it's up to all the codes and
won't bother you by being obvious.
"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
I have thought about it, but I would have to get it there as the main is
towards the other end of the house. ( the panel is in the middle of the
house and the garage is on the other side of an enclosed car port, my
office. Conduit would have to be run externally) I would like to have a
sub panel as I run everything off a lighting circuit. Is there a rule of
thumb as how big the sub-panel can be?? The main is 100 amp. I am guessing
you would run your wires and terminate them with a 220 breaker like for an
oven or cloths dryer. What the would be I don't know. Then the sub panel
would have a main and then breakers for your 220 circuits or 110 circuits.
The size of these would depend on the tools attached to them. Thanks for
your input.

Bruce

William Noble wrote:
unless it's really impossible, you should consider getting 220 to where
your tools are - with 220 wire sizes are smaller, the load is better
balanced, and you can get more HP when you need it. I do my own wiring,
but unless the run is long (or you live where you just don't have 220) it
should not be expensive to get 220 to your shop/garage - code permits it
everywhere I've heard of, and if you do some prework even a real
electrician should only charge for an hour or two of work
"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
Sept. 2006 American Woodworker has an article on choosing compact
compressors and an article on plumbing your shop with hoses. I have
been looking also and maybe one day I will get one. I have found that
up to 26 to 30 gallon tanks are 110 VAC and above that is 220VAC. Now
my shop doesn't have 220 and I don't see it in the future. I too have
been looking at Lowes and Home Depot. I will keep in mind the 6-8 CMF
at 90 PSI. Good info from everyone, thanks

Bruce

Teejay wrote:
I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around
and clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like
framing or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's
sells? Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned
with money (up to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ