Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel,
and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. And it's kind of a PITA to turn the lathe off, get the tool rest out of the way, stick the light up against the opening of the hollow form then look at the piece from the chuck side. BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? charlie b |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
I generally hollow the inside and finish sanding and oiling or waxing first,
then have the light inside the object and turn the outside when turning thin items. Using this method I have turned goblets with a wall of 0.4 mm which is 1/32 inch note the light is ON when the lathe is spinning and to give even more contrast I reduce the other lighting near the lathe, ie. no overhead lights and minimal workshop lights. This really shows the unevenness allowing me to accurately use the SKEW so that the surface does not need much sanding (sanding starts with 300 grit followed by 400 and finished with 1200 grit then lightly finished with oil and wax this is the tricky part) "charlie b" wrote in message ... Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel, and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. And it's kind of a PITA to turn the lathe off, get the tool rest out of the way, stick the light up against the opening of the hollow form then look at the piece from the chuck side. BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? charlie b |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
If you don't mind me asking.. could you explain a little more on the light
source. What kind of light are you using and how do you suspend it in the bowl. Are you attaching it to the quill on the tailstock and running it in that way..? "." wrote in message ... I generally hollow the inside and finish sanding and oiling or waxing first, then have the light inside the object and turn the outside when turning thin items. Using this method I have turned goblets with a wall of 0.4 mm which is 1/32 inch note the light is ON when the lathe is spinning and to give even more contrast I reduce the other lighting near the lathe, ie. no overhead lights and minimal workshop lights. This really shows the unevenness allowing me to accurately use the SKEW so that the surface does not need much sanding (sanding starts with 300 grit followed by 400 and finished with 1200 grit then lightly finished with oil and wax this is the tricky part) "charlie b" wrote in message ... Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel, and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. And it's kind of a PITA to turn the lathe off, get the tool rest out of the way, stick the light up against the opening of the hollow form then look at the piece from the chuck side. BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? charlie b |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
The light is a 12volt halogen globe whis is mounted on a flexible (spring
type) mount which is inturn attached to a old magnet from a subwoofer driver which I place on the lathe bed. I bend the light and insert it into the hollow form and switch it on.For those interested I will post some photos on alt.binaries.pistures.woodworking shortly. :-) "Jim Hall" wrote in message news:l85Og.5138$TA5.125@fed1read09... If you don't mind me asking.. could you explain a little more on the light source. What kind of light are you using and how do you suspend it in the bowl. Are you attaching it to the quill on the tailstock and running it in that way..? "." wrote in message ... I generally hollow the inside and finish sanding and oiling or waxing first, then have the light inside the object and turn the outside when turning thin items. Using this method I have turned goblets with a wall of 0.4 mm which is 1/32 inch note the light is ON when the lathe is spinning and to give even more contrast I reduce the other lighting near the lathe, ie. no overhead lights and minimal workshop lights. This really shows the unevenness allowing me to accurately use the SKEW so that the surface does not need much sanding (sanding starts with 300 grit followed by 400 and finished with 1200 grit then lightly finished with oil and wax this is the tricky part) "charlie b" wrote in message ... Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel, and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. And it's kind of a PITA to turn the lathe off, get the tool rest out of the way, stick the light up against the opening of the hollow form then look at the piece from the chuck side. BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? charlie b |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
Photos now posted
PING Jim Hall From rec.crafts.woodturning Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea Photo 1 "." wrote in message ... The light is a 12volt halogen globe whis is mounted on a flexible (spring type) mount which is inturn attached to a old magnet from a subwoofer driver which I place on the lathe bed. I bend the light and insert it into the hollow form and switch it on.For those interested I will post some photos on alt.binaries.pistures.woodworking shortly. :-) "Jim Hall" wrote in message news:l85Og.5138$TA5.125@fed1read09... If you don't mind me asking.. could you explain a little more on the light source. What kind of light are you using and how do you suspend it in the bowl. Are you attaching it to the quill on the tailstock and running it in that way..? "." wrote in message ... I generally hollow the inside and finish sanding and oiling or waxing first, then have the light inside the object and turn the outside when turning thin items. Using this method I have turned goblets with a wall of 0.4 mm which is 1/32 inch note the light is ON when the lathe is spinning and to give even more contrast I reduce the other lighting near the lathe, ie. no overhead lights and minimal workshop lights. This really shows the unevenness allowing me to accurately use the SKEW so that the surface does not need much sanding (sanding starts with 300 grit followed by 400 and finished with 1200 grit then lightly finished with oil and wax this is the tricky part) "charlie b" wrote in message ... Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel, and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. And it's kind of a PITA to turn the lathe off, get the tool rest out of the way, stick the light up against the opening of the hollow form then look at the piece from the chuck side. BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? charlie b |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
Hi Charlie
I think that would be a not so smart idea. However there are fiber optic cables, and you could tape a bundle to your tool shaft, and have light shine on the one end and bring the light inside that way, another is low voltage bare bulb also taped to the tool shaft to light the inside, but my favorite way is, stop lathe, clean out shavings, measure, etc., Hollow forms are not for the hurrying ones. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo charlie b wrote: Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel, and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. And it's kind of a PITA to turn the lathe off, get the tool rest out of the way, stick the light up against the opening of the hollow form then look at the piece from the chuck side. BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? charlie b |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
"charlie b" wrote in message ... Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel, and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. And it's kind of a PITA to turn the lathe off, get the tool rest out of the way, stick the light up against the opening of the hollow form then look at the piece from the chuck side. BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? Thin glass and power tools in proximity? If you've got some fixation that thin means skill, attach a flexible shaft light like the mechanics use to the tool itself and watch through the sides. Used to do it with ornaments, now I don't. If you blow through or sand through, so what? Grab another piece of wood and start over. Suppose I might feel differently if I were buying my wood or using something truly rare. Wondering how much fun you could have with a fluorescent and an interrupted edge at certain speeds. Bet you could make it run backward optically like the wheels in the movies.... |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
On Wed, 13 Sep 2006 00:09:49 -0700, charlie b wrote:
Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel, and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. And it's kind of a PITA to turn the lathe off, get the tool rest out of the way, stick the light up against the opening of the hollow form then look at the piece from the chuck side. BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? charlie b I use one of those cheap flexible led lights, Charlie... Still have to stop the lathe but no tool rest moving or anything... nice for checking some thin bowls, too... Mac https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
In article ,
charlie b wrote: BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? You don't need to complicate it with a ring lamp - put a spotlight where it shines on the bowl, and gauge the thickness of the bowl while the piece is spinning by looking at the color of the spot. ie, you don't need to have the whole piece lit, just as you don't need to have a circular cutter to turn it round - a single point will do as you turn the piece. Look up Peter Bloch (blochofwood) who demonstates this technique from time to time, and uses it to turn lampshades. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
On Wed, 13 Sep 2006 00:09:49 -0700, charlie b
wrote: Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel, and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. And it's kind of a PITA to turn the lathe off, get the tool rest out of the way, stick the light up against the opening of the hollow form then look at the piece from the chuck side. BUT - You Can get donut shaped fluorescent light bulbs. And if you can fix it to the drive end of the lathe - behind the chuck or around the chuck - and made some kind of shade - then you might be able to use light to tell you how thick the wall of the piece your working on is getting. Could probably turn a "shade" even. Brilliant idea or a dumb idea? What you're describing, I think I'd pass on... but I do use light for thin stuff. What I do is take a floor standing goosneck lamp with a cone shaped shade that we decided didn't look very good in the house and shine it directly into the hole used for hollowing. They sell decorative bulbs at the store that have very thick glass and come in high wattages that are great for the purpose. And yes, I've used this for making lampshades. Easiest way I've found was to hollow first, then shine the light in while turning away the outside. It's by far the easiest way to insure a consistant level of translucentity (if that's even a word...) Careful of the wood selection, of course- wet wood turned that thin cracks sometimes, and when there's that little material holding the wall together, you don't need to cut through. The air whipping past a hairline crack is sometimes enough to make the thing explode. Exciting, but not exactly safe! |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
|
|||
|
|||
Brilliant Idea or Dumb Idea
charlie b wrote: Having just recently blown through the top of a turned lidded vessel, and having noted that a light shining into the inside while looking from the outside makes it semi-obvious how thick or thin the walls are. But you can't put a light inside while your working on the inside - duh. Charlie - there is a small bright light that you can tape to your tool just behind the cutting edge, that will give you sufficient light to turn a consistently thin wall. The cord is taped at a couple spots along the handle. I've seen these used a number of times - just have not had the need myself. Sorry I don't have a source for this - but suspect a bit of googling or talking to major suppliers will turn it up. - Hought |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Veritas twin screw idea? | Woodworking | |||
Finessing a dumb idea; question | Woodworking | |||
Really Dumb idea, Planing PCB? | Woodworking | |||
Need Creative Idea for built in table saw | Woodworking | |||
YAGI: Yet Another Good Idea! | UK diy |