I still have my first lathe given to me by my parents decades ago.
Recently, I had need of a steady rest, and picked one up at the local
Woodcrafter's store only to find out that a steady rest built for a 12"
lathe doesn't fit a 10" lathe - DUH!

So I've been on the hunt for a smaller version, and have not been successful
so far. Other than building one from scratch, are there any other sources
where I might find one for my smaller lathe?

I also feel like I should put a bumper sticker on the smaller lathe: My
other lathe is a 16". And I do have a home made steady rest for it.

Thanks
Tim

Tim Schubach wrote:
[snip]
I also feel like I should put a bumper sticker on the smaller lathe: My
other lathe is a 16". And I do have a home made steady rest for it.

This reminds me -- I've been thinking of getting a license plate frame
"I'd rather be driving my Oneway". It couldn't be any more obscure than
the current pair of "The Art of Rotodendrology" (thanks to A. Hilton, I
think) and "Carpe Lignum, Torne Lignum" (courtesy Lynn Mangiamelli). I
should explain -- the plate itself is 'A WDTRNR'.
DW

In article ,
"Tim Schubach" wrote:

So I've been on the hunt for a smaller version, and have not been successful
so far. Other than building one from scratch, are there any other sources
where I might find one for my smaller lathe?

I do note that you'd rather buy one, however, I offer a couple pics of
the homemade steadies I used on my Delta Midi:

http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest.JPG
http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest2.JPG

The "bearings" are UHMW plastic (ultra-high molecular weight) - this
material is very slippery. I drilled a couple holes of varying diameters
in a few lengths and then cut the hole in half to fit over the wood
spindle to make a pair. You can see the "B" in the second pic to use the
drilled pairs as a set. They're held to the steady and against the wood
by deStacco clamps. I've had very good success with this setup - just
keep the speed under 2500 or so for 1/4" spindles to make sure the
plastic doesn't get too hot and begin smoking.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Hi Owen

Owen that's a very need setup, KISS all the way, thanks for showing, I
don't think I would have ever considered using the UHMW material for
that, I'd have expected it would just wear away to fast.
This is just to show, "there's always more to learn".


Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Owen Lowe wrote:
In article ,
"Tim Schubach" wrote:

So I've been on the hunt for a smaller version, and have not been successful
so far. Other than building one from scratch, are there any other sources
where I might find one for my smaller lathe?

I do note that you'd rather buy one, however, I offer a couple pics of
the homemade steadies I used on my Delta Midi:

http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest.JPG
http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest2.JPG

The "bearings" are UHMW plastic (ultra-high molecular weight) - this
material is very slippery. I drilled a couple holes of varying diameters
in a few lengths and then cut the hole in half to fit over the wood
spindle to make a pair. You can see the "B" in the second pic to use the
drilled pairs as a set. They're held to the steady and against the wood
by deStacco clamps. I've had very good success with this setup - just
keep the speed under 2500 or so for 1/4" spindles to make sure the
plastic doesn't get too hot and begin smoking.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Ingenious, Owen, Fit & proper for the lathe shown, but I do hope you
will paint the base white before insulting the Oneway.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Wed, 09 Aug 2006 21:12:01 GMT, Owen Lowe wrote:

I do note that you'd rather buy one, however, I offer a couple pics of
the homemade steadies I used on my Delta Midi:

http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest.JPG
http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/SteadyRest2.JPG

The "bearings" are UHMW plastic (ultra-high molecular weight) - this
material is very slippery. I drilled a couple holes of varying diameters
in a few lengths and then cut the hole in half to fit over the wood
spindle to make a pair. You can see the "B" in the second pic to use the
drilled pairs as a set. They're held to the steady and against the wood
by deStacco clamps. I've had very good success with this setup - just
keep the speed under 2500 or so for 1/4" spindles to make sure the
plastic doesn't get too hot and begin smoking.

Very clever, Owen!

Of course, if I could afford jig clamps like yours, I could buy a steady rest..
*g*

I was going to build one like this:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...330,49238&ap=1

but your system looks like a better way to go...
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

Of course, if I could afford jig clamps like yours, I could buy a steady
rest..
*g*

I used regular 2" or 3" C-clamps for a while but wanted something that
was quicker - there are likely many clamp types that would work.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Owen Lowe wrote:

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

Of course, if I could afford jig clamps like yours, I could buy a
steady rest..
*g*

I used regular 2" or 3" C-clamps for a while but wanted something that
was quicker - there are likely many clamp types that would work.


I was gonna ask what the clamps were, then I saw the 'de' in the brand
name. Pretty much anything that has 'de' in the name I
can't afford. )

In article URLCg.19321$hj4.16928@trnddc03,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

I used regular 2" or 3" C-clamps for a while but wanted something that
was quicker - there are likely many clamp types that would work.


I was gonna ask what the clamps were, then I saw the 'de' in the brand
name. Pretty much anything that has 'de' in the name I
can't afford. )

As I recall, these de-Sta-cos were about $13-$14 each. When you compare
that to other quality clamps that will hold well - even Vise-Grips, they
are in the ballpark and even inside the baseline.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Owen Lowe wrote:

In article URLCg.19321$hj4.16928@trnddc03,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

I used regular 2" or 3" C-clamps for a while but wanted something
that was quicker - there are likely many clamp types that would
work.


I was gonna ask what the clamps were, then I saw the 'de' in the
brand name. Pretty much anything that has 'de' in the name I
can't afford. )

As I recall, these de-Sta-cos were about $13-$14 each. When you
compare that to other quality clamps that will hold well - even
Vise-Grips, they are in the ballpark and even inside the baseline.


That sounds reasonable. I did a search, but couldn't find a seller. Do
you remember where you got them?

Hi Reed

There is a 10 piece bundle of brand new Destaco clamps on Ebay if you
are interested.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Lobby Dosser wrote:
Owen Lowe wrote:

In article URLCg.19321$hj4.16928@trnddc03,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

I used regular 2" or 3" C-clamps for a while but wanted something
that was quicker - there are likely many clamp types that would
work.


I was gonna ask what the clamps were, then I saw the 'de' in the
brand name. Pretty much anything that has 'de' in the name I
can't afford. )

As I recall, these de-Sta-cos were about $13-$14 each. When you
compare that to other quality clamps that will hold well - even
Vise-Grips, they are in the ballpark and even inside the baseline.


That sounds reasonable. I did a search, but couldn't find a seller. Do
you remember where you got them?

On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 18:51:28 GMT, Owen Lowe wrote:

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

Of course, if I could afford jig clamps like yours, I could buy a steady
rest..
*g*

I used regular 2" or 3" C-clamps for a while but wanted something that
was quicker - there are likely many clamp types that would work.

Those are pretty cool, though... probably great for jig setup and such..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

" wrote:
Thanks Leo.

Hi Reed

There is a 10 piece bundle of brand new Destaco clamps on Ebay if you
are interested.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Lobby Dosser wrote:
Owen Lowe wrote:

In article URLCg.19321$hj4.16928@trnddc03,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

I used regular 2" or 3" C-clamps for a while but wanted something
that was quicker - there are likely many clamp types that would
work.


I was gonna ask what the clamps were, then I saw the 'de' in the
brand name. Pretty much anything that has 'de' in the name I
can't afford. )

As I recall, these de-Sta-cos were about $13-$14 each. When you
compare that to other quality clamps that will hold well - even
Vise-Grips, they are in the ballpark and even inside the baseline.


That sounds reasonable. I did a search, but couldn't find a seller. Do
you remember where you got them?

Thanks Leo. I've dealt with Penn State previously, and no longer even read
their ads. Long story, but they are one vendor from which I will not make
any more purchases.

And you are right - for $50, I can make my own.

tms

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Tim

Penn state has a steady for a mini lathe, though the price is not mini
IMO.
At $49.95 plus shipping cost, I would make one myself.
Just have a look

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lsr2.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Tim Schubach wrote:
I still have my first lathe given to me by my parents decades ago.
Recently, I had need of a steady rest, and picked one up at the local
Woodcrafter's store only to find out that a steady rest built for a 12"
lathe doesn't fit a 10" lathe - DUH!

So I've been on the hunt for a smaller version, and have not been
successful
so far. Other than building one from scratch, are there any other
sources
where I might find one for my smaller lathe?

I also feel like I should put a bumper sticker on the smaller lathe: My
other lathe is a 16". And I do have a home made steady rest for it.

Thanks
Tim

I think DeStaCo also makes a plastic version of these clamps that are more
affordable. Don't know if they're fit to use in this case, but may be worth
looking into.

Clever setup ...

tms

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
In article URLCg.19321$hj4.16928@trnddc03,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

I used regular 2" or 3" C-clamps for a while but wanted something that
was quicker - there are likely many clamp types that would work.


I was gonna ask what the clamps were, then I saw the 'de' in the brand
name. Pretty much anything that has 'de' in the name I
can't afford. )

As I recall, these de-Sta-cos were about $13-$14 each. When you compare
that to other quality clamps that will hold well - even Vise-Grips, they
are in the ballpark and even inside the baseline.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe,
warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called
degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your
finger. A pic for the strong of stomach:
www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for
finished smoothness.

I got in on this post late, but Tim, if you want to take a look at the
design I came up with for building your own, see it on my webpage at

www.hdv.net under "Tips"

The direct link to a instruction file on how to make it is:

http://www.hdv.net/tips/Making%20a%20Steady%20Rest.htm

This thing has been copied hundreds of times by now, and everyone that
has made it likes it because it's simply, extremely sturdy and cheap to
make.

Herm



"Tim Schubach" wrote in
:

I still have my first lathe given to me by my parents decades ago.
Recently, I had need of a steady rest, and picked one up at the local
Woodcrafter's store only to find out that a steady rest built for a
12" lathe doesn't fit a 10" lathe - DUH!

So I've been on the hunt for a smaller version, and have not been
successful so far. Other than building one from scratch, are there
any other sources where I might find one for my smaller lathe?

I also feel like I should put a bumper sticker on the smaller lathe:
My other lathe is a 16". And I do have a home made steady rest for
it.

Thanks
Tim

On Wed, 06 Sep 2006 22:34:36 GMT, Herman de Vries wrote:

I got in on this post late, but Tim, if you want to take a look at the
design I came up with for building your own, see it on my webpage at

www.hdv.net under "Tips"

The direct link to a instruction file on how to make it is:

http://www.hdv.net/tips/Making%20a%20Steady%20Rest.htm

This thing has been copied hundreds of times by now, and everyone that
has made it likes it because it's simply, extremely sturdy and cheap to
make.

Herm

Herm... you lost me at "1½” square steel tubing and weld in ¾” threaded rod"...
Not being a welder, I'm outta luck there...

Do you think that there be a lot less stability if the threaded rod were
fastened to the square tube with bolts and lock washers?

Also, would there be any advantage to having maybe 2 rollers on the bottom, to
center the work, or is it already self-centering?

thanks!



"Tim Schubach" wrote in
:

I still have my first lathe given to me by my parents decades ago.
Recently, I had need of a steady rest, and picked one up at the local
Woodcrafter's store only to find out that a steady rest built for a
12" lathe doesn't fit a 10" lathe - DUH!

So I've been on the hunt for a smaller version, and have not been
successful so far. Other than building one from scratch, are there
any other sources where I might find one for my smaller lathe?

I also feel like I should put a bumper sticker on the smaller lathe:
My other lathe is a 16". And I do have a home made steady rest for
it.

Thanks
Tim



Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

mac davis wrote in
:

On Wed, 06 Sep 2006 22:34:36 GMT, Herman de Vries
wrote:

I got in on this post late, but Tim, if you want to take a look at the
design I came up with for building your own, see it on my webpage at

www.hdv.net under "Tips"

The direct link to a instruction file on how to make it is:

http://www.hdv.net/tips/Making%20a%20Steady%20Rest.htm

This thing has been copied hundreds of times by now, and everyone that
has made it likes it because it's simply, extremely sturdy and cheap
to make.

Herm

Herm... you lost me at "1½” square steel tubing and weld in ¾”
threaded rod"... Not being a welder, I'm outta luck there...

Do you think that there be a lot less stability if the threaded rod
were fastened to the square tube with bolts and lock washers?

Also, would there be any advantage to having maybe 2 rollers on the
bottom, to center the work, or is it already self-centering?

thanks!



"Tim Schubach" wrote in
m:

I still have my first lathe given to me by my parents decades ago.
Recently, I had need of a steady rest, and picked one up at the
local Woodcrafter's store only to find out that a steady rest built
for a 12" lathe doesn't fit a 10" lathe - DUH!

So I've been on the hunt for a smaller version, and have not been
successful so far. Other than building one from scratch, are there
any other sources where I might find one for my smaller lathe?

I also feel like I should put a bumper sticker on the smaller lathe:
My other lathe is a 16". And I do have a home made steady rest for
it.

Thanks
Tim



Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm


Tim, sorry to be late in responding. The advantage to welding the
threaded rod into the holes in the sqaure tubing is to give you a bit
more capacity on the lower crosspiece. If you had a nut on the top of the
square tubing, your lower cross piece could not be lowered as much. You
would lose the width of the nut in capacity.

There is already 2 wheels on the bottom crosspiece, so I presume you mean
the top crosspiece. No need for it. The piece centers itself well. By
using light adjustments on the ends of the bottom crosspiece you can get
the bottom wheels touching the work at precisely the same time. A half
turn or so upward on each nut will keep the piece centered. The top wheel
just ensures that the centering won't be lost. I guess you could put two
wheels on the top too, if you wished.

Hi Herm, thanks. Awful good to see your name and your good advice on a
rcw thread.

For any newbies; Herm was and still is, a valued member of this
newsgroup. He is a superior turner-instructor in his own right and he
initiated a very fine woodturning forum (WOW) with pictures as well as
text and he hasn't been as active here as before. Let's keep asking for
his advice.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Hi Mac

I can weld, just come by and I will do it for you, ;-))

But seriously, I think you should be able to insert a fitting block
inside your lower square tube and drill and tap that, some locktite and
a nut underneath and you would be able to use the full lenght that way.

How is the new place coming along Mac ??

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:
On Wed, 06 Sep 2006 22:34:36 GMT, Herman de Vries wrote:

I got in on this post late, but Tim, if you want to take a look at the
design I came up with for building your own, see it on my webpage at

www.hdv.net under "Tips"

The direct link to a instruction file on how to make it is:

http://www.hdv.net/tips/Making%20a%20Steady%20Rest.htm

This thing has been copied hundreds of times by now, and everyone that
has made it likes it because it's simply, extremely sturdy and cheap to
make.

Herm

Herm... you lost me at "1½" square steel tubing and weld in ¾" threaded rod"...
Not being a welder, I'm outta luck there...

Do you think that there be a lot less stability if the threaded rod were
fastened to the square tube with bolts and lock washers?

Also, would there be any advantage to having maybe 2 rollers on the bottom, to
center the work, or is it already self-centering?

thanks!



"Tim Schubach" wrote in
:

I still have my first lathe given to me by my parents decades ago.
Recently, I had need of a steady rest, and picked one up at the local
Woodcrafter's store only to find out that a steady rest built for a
12" lathe doesn't fit a 10" lathe - DUH!

So I've been on the hunt for a smaller version, and have not been
successful so far. Other than building one from scratch, are there
any other sources where I might find one for my smaller lathe?

I also feel like I should put a bumper sticker on the smaller lathe:
My other lathe is a 16". And I do have a home made steady rest for
it.

Thanks
Tim



Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

On 12 Sep 2006 21:05:31 -0700, "
wrote:

Hi Mac

I can weld, just come by and I will do it for you, ;-))

Kind of a long trip, Leo.. and not to my kind of weather!

But seriously, I think you should be able to insert a fitting block
inside your lower square tube and drill and tap that, some locktite and
a nut underneath and you would be able to use the full lenght that way.

I have to look at the page again, but I was also thinking about using solid
stock instead of the square tube.. then just drill and tap it..

How is the new place coming along Mac ??

Pretty close to finished... the windows went in last week and the doors are just
about done...
We're going down tomorrow to give the builder more money (stage 5 or whatever)
and pick up our visa.... moving truck from Baja will be here on Oct. 12th!

I'll try to get some new pictures on the page up, or maybe on the new page... (
davisbaja.com & bajawoodcraft.com)




Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm