'ello folks,

Recently acquired a 50-year old Davis & Wells 20" band saw. The motor
that came with it is not the original and is pretty rough looking. I'm
exploring the options for getting a new motor and have a few questions:

When comparing two motors, how does one compare the Service Factor spec?

I assume a "continuous duty" motor would be preferable to other options?

I'm leaning toward a TEFC, but if in a garage and seeing moderate to
light use, might a drip-proof be OK too?

Lastly, the saw originally came with a 2hp. Am considering a 3hp if the
price doesn't get too steep - max. table to guide distance is something
on the order of 13" +/-. Would a 3hp be overkill for this depth and
green wood? (Am having an easier time locating the proper NEMA frame
size in 3hp vs. 2hp.)

Thanks muchly,
Owen

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Owen Lowe wrote in newsnlnlowe-
:

'ello folks,

Recently acquired a 50-year old Davis & Wells 20" band saw. The motor
that came with it is not the original and is pretty rough looking. I'm
exploring the options for getting a new motor and have a few questions:

When comparing two motors, how does one compare the Service Factor spec?

I assume a "continuous duty" motor would be preferable to other options?

I'm leaning toward a TEFC, but if in a garage and seeing moderate to
light use, might a drip-proof be OK too?

Lastly, the saw originally came with a 2hp. Am considering a 3hp if the
price doesn't get too steep - max. table to guide distance is something
on the order of 13" +/-. Would a 3hp be overkill for this depth and
green wood? (Am having an easier time locating the proper NEMA frame
size in 3hp vs. 2hp.)

Thanks muchly,
Owen


Seems to me that the new Laguna saws are coming with 4.5 hp Baldor motors,
if that means anything to your calculations...

Have fun with the classic iron!

Patriarch

Owen:

I am not an expert on motors by any means. However, maybe I can help.

A friend of mine that does high end, artistic custom woodwork (think
carved entryways for churches, etc.) cuts and mills his own wood. His
Jet 18" with a 2 hp motor only lasted about 18 months in his shop and
the motor burned up. Apparently it overheated (cutting veneers from
8"X8" logs will do that!) and the bearings dried out; this in turn
caused the shaft riding in the dried bearings to overheat and break.

He pushed it hard as he always told me he regretted that saw as the 2
hp just wasn't enough power. So in the end, he was right. We are
looking for a 3 hp motor now to replace it.

The continuous run motors in my opinion can be tricky. The motor guy
at the armature works here in town (yup... they really rewind them on
site!) told me that "continuous run" meant that in some cases it could
run for about 45 minutes out of an hour, imtermittently, and
indefinitely. This would emcompass the heavy duty motors that are in
compressors, industrial washing machines, etc.

On the other hand, he has some "continuous run" motors that HE
considers continuous run motors. They are made to run all the time
powering chillers for roof top cooling systems, elevators in buildings,
fountain pumps, and swimming pool skimmers on commercial pools. They
never shut off, but they might get an rest now and again.

Like so many definitions that are *******ized today, I think the point
is that you need to find out from the manufacturer what their
definition is for the duty rating on that particular motor.

According to my motor guy that is keeping an eye out for a good motor
for the broken 18", a continuous run motor is not nearly as important
as a quality built motor. He only suggests Baldor, Lesson, and some
GEs in certain sizes.

According to him, all the continuous run motors are made to be rebuilt.
While the others may be repaired, but it may not be advantageous to
rebuild them. That being said, he did tell me that if he could get the
continuous run motor at a good price he would get it for me.

If I were you, I would probably look for a good quality TEFC and not
worry about the rating too much. Once you get into the 3 hp range, you
probably won't find too many light duty motors.

Just my 0.02.

Robert

Hi Owen
Not trying to stop you from getting an other motor, but that rough
LOOKING motor might be a better one than the new one you will buy,
looking rough is what ??? paint missing, dirty ??what.
Does it run ??, not enough power ??.

I have a small 14" band saw and the stand is closed, but dust still
gets in, a TEFC is nice and you don't have to worry about dust in
there, but I have seen total open motors that had been running for 50
years, and the only maintenance was oil once a year, for the bronze
bearings, and they were still going strong, and yes they were rough
looking.

If you use 2 or 3 tooth blades and a wide set, you don't need that much
power for cutting wet bowl blanks, it's nice to have plenty though, if
you want to do some resawing thick dry wood, then 4 or 5 hp is not to
much IMO.
I would try first with what you have, and then make up your mind,
that's my 2 cents.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Owen Lowe wrote:
'ello folks,

Recently acquired a 50-year old Davis & Wells 20" band saw. The motor
that came with it is not the original and is pretty rough looking. I'm
exploring the options for getting a new motor and have a few questions:

When comparing two motors, how does one compare the Service Factor spec?

I assume a "continuous duty" motor would be preferable to other options?

I'm leaning toward a TEFC, but if in a garage and seeing moderate to
light use, might a drip-proof be OK too?

Lastly, the saw originally came with a 2hp. Am considering a 3hp if the
price doesn't get too steep - max. table to guide distance is something
on the order of 13" +/-. Would a 3hp be overkill for this depth and
green wood? (Am having an easier time locating the proper NEMA frame
size in 3hp vs. 2hp.)

Thanks muchly,
Owen

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article .com,
" wrote:

Not trying to stop you from getting an other motor, but that rough
LOOKING motor might be a better one than the new one you will buy,
looking rough is what ??? paint missing, dirty ??what.
Does it run ??, not enough power ??.

Thank you for the reply Leo. By rough looking, I'm talking about frayed
wires coming out of the motor body along with rust. I'm not too
concerned with keeping it as I know it's a replacement since the motor
NEMA frame doesn't fit the mounts on the saw. I may try to rejuv it, but
at this point I'm looking for a properly fitted motor.

I have a small 14" band saw and the stand is closed, but dust still
gets in, a TEFC is nice and you don't have to worry about dust in
there, but I have seen total open motors that had been running for 50
years, and the only maintenance was oil once a year, for the bronze
bearings, and they were still going strong, and yes they were rough
looking.

Yeah, I've seen those motors too. i think I may just go with an open
version as the price is a tad cheaper - but then again...

If you use 2 or 3 tooth blades and a wide set, you don't need that much
power for cutting wet bowl blanks, it's nice to have plenty though, if
you want to do some resawing thick dry wood, then 4 or 5 hp is not to
much IMO.
I would try first with what you have, and then make up your mind,
that's my 2 cents.

I regularly use a Timberwolf 3/8x3tpi wide-kerf blade. I've had my Delta
14" with 1 hp (?) come to a stop when the sawdust expands from the
friction heat inside the cut.

Would anyone be willing to offer an educated opinion on these two
choices?

WEG brand made in Brazil (company founded in '62), TEFC, 120 lbs, manual
thermal reset:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...&item=10-2295&
catname=electric

Leeson, non-TEFC, 90 lbs, no thermal protection:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...&item=10-1435&
catname=electric

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article 36,
Patriarch wrote:

Seems to me that the new Laguna saws are coming with 4.5 hp Baldor motors,
if that means anything to your calculations...

Hmmmm. Well, if Laguna owners are hanging 4.5 hp Baldors, I'm just gonna
have to go with a 5hp!

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

In article .com,
wrote:

The continuous run motors in my opinion can be tricky. The motor guy
at the armature works here in town (yup... they really rewind them on
site!) told me that "continuous run" meant that in some cases it could
run for about 45 minutes out of an hour, imtermittently, and
indefinitely. This would emcompass the heavy duty motors that are in
compressors, industrial washing machines, etc.

SNIP

Like so many definitions that are *******ized today, I think the point
is that you need to find out from the manufacturer what their
definition is for the duty rating on that particular motor.

Yeah, I guess you're right - I'll try to find the manufacturer info.

According to my motor guy that is keeping an eye out for a good motor
for the broken 18", a continuous run motor is not nearly as important
as a quality built motor. He only suggests Baldor, Lesson, and some
GEs in certain sizes.

I've come across the WEG brand from Brazil. The company has been around
for 40+ years and apparently has a good reputation. Anyone ever heard of
them?

In comparison to similar HP and configured Leeson's, the WEG motors are
definitely heavy-weights. A 5hp, TEFC Leeson is over $100 more but comes
in at 106 lbs vs. the 120 lb. WEG 5hp, TEFC. What might account for the
added weight? Is it a good thing?

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Owen Lowe wrote:

I've come across the WEG brand from Brazil. The company has been around
for 40+ years and apparently has a good reputation. Anyone ever heard of
them?

In comparison to similar HP and configured Leeson's, the WEG motors are
definitely heavy-weights. A 5hp, TEFC Leeson is over $100 more but comes
in at 106 lbs vs. the 120 lb. WEG 5hp, TEFC. What might account for the
added weight? Is it a good thing?

--
Owen Lowe


I don't know Owen. My guy is hard to get ahold of unless I am bringing
him business. Did you see this page?

http://www.weg.co.nz/main.cfm?id=32

Seems like they have done their homework. But I know my guy, and that
is he will say what he always does, Leeson, Baldor or GE.
Dependability, reliablilty and parts availability. That is why you see
them on so many quality tools. Plus, every motor shop is familiar with
them.

I hope you let us know what you buy. You should buy a 6 hp just so
Leon can't upgrade his new cabinet grade bandsaw to catch you! ;^)

Robert

In article om,
wrote:

I don't know Owen. My guy is hard to get ahold of unless I am bringing
him business. Did you see this page?

http://www.weg.co.nz/main.cfm?id=32

Seems like they have done their homework. But I know my guy, and that
is he will say what he always does, Leeson, Baldor or GE.
Dependability, reliablilty and parts availability. That is why you see
them on so many quality tools. Plus, every motor shop is familiar with
them.

I hope you let us know what you buy. You should buy a 6 hp just so
Leon can't upgrade his new cabinet grade bandsaw to catch you! ;^)

According to Frank B., who worked for Delta for years, over on the
wreck, Delta has recently gone from using the Marathon brand motors on
the Unisaw to the WEG brand...

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.