Darrell... I thought you might be interested in a tip that I picked up yesterday
at the club meeting, regarding care and feeding of 3 point tools..

The guy doing the demo (a retired shop teacher) had a hex nut on the shaft of
his 3 point tool.. looked sort of strange until he finished showing how to cut a
bead and went to sharpen it... the flats of the hex nut sat on the grinder tool
rest and lined up with the faces on the tool with the grinding wheel... Seemed
pretty clever to me..

He said that you put the nut on before you shape the faces when you make the
tool.. which would be a lot easier than the several ways that I tried, as you
might remember.. *g*


Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
Darrell... I thought you might be interested in a tip that I picked up
yesterday
at the club meeting, regarding care and feeding of 3 point tools..

The guy doing the demo (a retired shop teacher) had a hex nut on the shaft
of
his 3 point tool.. looked sort of strange until he finished showing how to
cut a
bead and went to sharpen it... the flats of the hex nut sat on the grinder
tool
rest and lined up with the faces on the tool with the grinding wheel...
Seemed
pretty clever to me..

He said that you put the nut on before you shape the faces when you make
the
tool.. which would be a lot easier than the several ways that I tried, as
you
might remember.. *g*


Mac
====================

Mac,
That sounds similar to the set up I use for my "pyramid" tools (3 point
sounds like something that actually has multiple points instead of 3 sides).
I cut 2 mesquite triangles (1 1/2" per sideby 1" thick) and drilled a 3/8"
hole thru one and a 1/2" hole thru the other to match my 2 tools. each has
a set screw to lock the tool into position. A line is scribed onto each
triangle and along the shaft of each tool. SAtick the tool into the
triangle, snug down the screw, then use it like the turner you saw. Another
thing I usually do is sharpen one face longer than the other 2. That gives a
little more flexibility in using it than with all 3 the same. FWIW

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

Mac and Ken
Thanks, nice ideas. I usually just eyeball the tool and sharpen but these
are good ideas for beginning users. for that matter, jig sharpening is
generally better, in my experience. I am not interested in an argument over
this and am willing to concede that a better freehand sharpener would get
better results.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 11:41:33 GMT, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:

Mac and Ken
Thanks, nice ideas. I usually just eyeball the tool and sharpen but these
are good ideas for beginning users. for that matter, jig sharpening is
generally better, in my experience. I am not interested in an argument over
this and am willing to concede that a better freehand sharpener would get
better results.

I was thinking how sharpening challenged I was when I made those 3 marks and
started grinding the faces, Darrell... this sounds like a much easier way to
make the tool..

I'm using sort of a "skewchisle" tip or whatever they call it, on my Oland now..
works GREAT!

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm