I want my Real Woodworking Bench
(http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/.../CBbench0.html)
back so I've decided to build a lathe bench for my JET midi

I've got a maple top (1 3/4" thick, 5' long and 20" deep)
for my future Ultimate Lathe Bench, but I want to do
a First Lathe Bench just to get the damn lathe of my
real workbench. Have a 3 foot long 4x12 header remnant
for the top and plan on 4x4 pedestals for the base with
2x6 stringers.

I want the lathe as close to the front of the bench top,
and because the top is only 11 1/2" wide (don't you
just love how the wood industry changes the meaning
of dimensions? "Oh, when we cut it it was 2x4 but
after it's dried and milled it's only an inch and a half
by 3 1/2.") - the base of the end pedestals should
be wider than 11 1/2"

Having the base extend foreward seems like it
would be a stubbed toe waiting to happen.

It's my understanding that the bench should
resist toppling over backwards so the center
of gravity should be towards the front. I
plan on having space at the bottom for adding
weight - sand, steel or lead shot, cast iron.

SO - which of the followng base configurations
would be the best way to go?
+----+
| |
| A | too narrow
| |
+----+

+----+
| |
| B | "feet" extend foreward
| |
+------+

+----+
| |
| C | "feet" extend rearward
| |
+------+


+----+
/ D \ symetric "delta" base
/ \
+---------+

+----+
| E \ rearward trapezoid base
| \
+--------+

+----+
/ F | foreward trapezoid base
/ |
+-------+

charlie b

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
I've got a maple top (1 3/4" thick, 5' long and 20" deep)
for my future Ultimate Lathe Bench, but I want to do
a First Lathe Bench just to get the damn lathe of my
real workbench. Have a 3 foot long 4x12 header remnant
for the top and plan on 4x4 pedestals for the base with
2x6 stringers.

I want the lathe as close to the front of the bench top,
and because the top is only 11 1/2" wide (don't you
just love how the wood industry changes the meaning
of dimensions? "Oh, when we cut it it was 2x4 but
after it's dried and milled it's only an inch and a half
by 3 1/2.") - the base of the end pedestals should
be wider than 11 1/2"

Having the base extend foreward seems like it
would be a stubbed toe waiting to happen.

It's my understanding that the bench should
resist toppling over backwards so the center
of gravity should be towards the front. I
plan on having space at the bottom for adding
weight - sand, steel or lead shot, cast iron.


Well, considering the physics, you're 180 out.

The lathe rotates objects toward you, so an accelerating heavy spot wants to
drive the front of the stand down and lift the rear. That's why you want
to slant the ends out in front to take the thrust. Unless you're in the
habit of working from behind the headstock, you'll never notice. Snug the
lathe - mounted _above_ the board by a comfortable cleanout distance -
toward the front of the board, then go swing plus about 25% from lathe
centerline on the ends to take the thrust. I say ends, because sheet goods
are easier to fabricate and more rigid than anything made with fasteners and
solid lumber.

I made mine with a cabinet and drawers underneath to store turning
paraphernalia. The bottom of the cabinet is actually a hollow box which can
be weighted. Once again, considering that the rear wants to lift as that
heavy spot comes over the top, mounting weight low and aft makes it count
for more. I have a hundred pounds in mine, but never turned an
out-of-balance chunk without, so can't be sure its required. If you don't
have the rigidity, you might want to get the weight closer to the lathe, and
rely on inertia. I don't favor it.

http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners/geo...to&PhotoID=452

http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners/geo...to&PhotoID=228

Hi Charlie

I have one of those midi minis Delta midi, just to be able to take it
along and turn mini stuff.
Rotational forces on those gutless little motors are not present, or I
should say disregard that, and you know that if you take off on a bike
the front wheel wants to come up not the back, anyway the biggest
problem I think especially on the variable speed motor is heat and
burning out the motor, fans run slow while turning larger chunks
usually, so try to keep the bench open under your motor, to have more
ventilation but also to keep the wood chips from collecting there.
I would make it a what you call a delta design and use 2 runs of 2x
something on top with the opening in between, and then 4 legs down and
out, cover with some ply or oriented strand board.
Well I don't have to tell you how, saw your flat work bench, if you run
out of space, I will gladly store all my stuff on it, here in my shop
G.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum12.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I guess my bias towards solid wood furniture and
traditional joinery got me going towars draw pegged
mortise and tenons in beefy stock (4x4s) and floating
panels. The idea of bolting things together just sort
of creeps me out.

But the idea of 2x4s and half inch ply "torsion box"
construction for the ends has a great deal of merit.
I can extend the outside ply over the outside edges
of the 4x4s at the top and bottom and through peg
them together I need the 4x4 as the foot and extended
beyond the ply front and back to permit using the
leg levelers with the allen head on the top of the
"bolt" so they can be adjusted from above with an
allen wrench. Worked great on my woodworking
bench and, since there was a minimum order
requirement when I bought them, I have an extra
set of 4.

Still want to use through tenons on the stretchers-
my bias.

If I go with the ply torsion box, I WILL have to
edge band the ply where it'd be visible. The
edges of baltic birch 7 ply isn't all that hard
on the eye, but solid wood would just look nicer.
Hmmm - padouk edge banding might be nice,
maybe with a couple of inlayed strings - of
silver perhaps. And ball and claw feet - that'd
be interesting, as would a shell carving in the
middle of the bottom stretcher. And half fluted
columns on the front "legs" - that's the ticket.
Perhaps a hidden drawer, with a hidden magnet
actuated locking mechanism. A french polish
to finish things off nicely.

(K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid - is one of
my woodworking goals - so far not attained)

charlie b

I guess my bias towards solid wood furniture and
traditional joinery got me going towars draw pegged
mortise and tenons in beefy stock (4x4s) and floating
panels. The idea of bolting things together just sort
of creeps me out.

That's funny!

(only because I know exactly what you mean)