Hi
I was just wondering which route i should go down first for dust when finishing. Either a full face mask with built in respirator or dust extractor such as the camvac dust extractor.
I'm turning for a hobby and have a sealey sm900 lathe and a wet and dry axminster grinder so far. I use paper masks and a broom for the shed floor.
Your thoughts please
Mark

"Sniperborg" wrote in message
...

Hi
I was just wondering which route i should go down first for dust when
finishing. Either a full face mask with built in respirator or dust
extractor such as the camvac dust extractor.
I'm turning for a hobby and have a sealey sm900 lathe and a wet and dry
axminster grinder so far. I use paper masks and a broom for the shed
floor.
Your thoughts please
Mark

Dust extraction at point of production works very well, can be combined with
a nuisance (paper) mask for additional personal protection. It's the way
that keeps the shop in best condition for the money.

Dryer vent works for me.
http://groups.msn.com/NovaOwners/geo...to&PhotoID=227
Nothing will keep up with shaving production, so move it into position as
you begin to sand.

Dust is actually a real health hazard. There are two things you can worry
about: the condition of your shop and the condition of your lungs. In
reality the shop doesn't matter that much other than kicking up settled dust
will likely deposit more in your lungs.
Catching the dust at the source is the best and I use a 4" DC hose connected
to a cardboard box positioned near the spinning workpiece. My DC has a 1
micron bag and anybody who really knows about dust hazards will tell you
that is not ideal. The nasty stuff for your lungs is in the 0.3 micron
range. That size will get inhaled, will not be trapped by your nose and will
not be exhaled like the much finer stuff. The 0.3 micron stuff tends to
lodge in the crevices of your lung tissue and stays there. This is bad.
While sanding is seen as a major source of dust since it is obviously
streaming off the workpiece, dust is also produced when cutting dry wood.
Spalted wood provides another problem - the fungi spores that are part of
the spalting process. Some of these can be very nasty and cause very serious
problems. I think I read where a famous Australian turner no longer turns
spalted wood because of the hazard.

So if you are real smart you will collect the dust with a good DC with the
best filter/bag you can get and you will also wear a respirator that
provides good dust protection. A HEPA filter is the best. If you have a long
way to go in your life you will pay even more attention to these measures.
billh

"Sniperborg" wrote in message
...

Hi
I was just wondering which route i should go down first for dust when
finishing. Either a full face mask with built in respirator or dust
extractor such as the camvac dust extractor.
I'm turning for a hobby and have a sealey sm900 lathe and a wet and dry
axminster grinder so far. I use paper masks and a broom for the shed
floor.
Your thoughts please
Mark


--
Sniperborg

In article ,
"billh" wrote:

So if you are real smart you will collect the dust with a good DC with the
best filter/bag you can get and you will also wear a respirator that
provides good dust protection. A HEPA filter is the best. If you have a long
way to go in your life you will pay even more attention to these measures.

I'm wondering if we are really deluding ourselves in many ways with the
notion we are protected from dust hazards if we take X-Y-Z steps.

I use a 1-ish micron DC and a sub-micron air filtration unit. I have
very little dust that settles on the tabletops and such in my turnery so
the collection must be working pretty well. However, whenever I empty
the dust collector bag or clean the filters in the air filtration unit a
big cloud of dust is generated that settles on my skin, clothing and the
surrounding surfaces - whether indoors or out. Additionally, that
uncollected dust on the workshop surfaces and the fine dust just from
the fact that we work with wood - inevitably settles on our clothing -
to be inhaled when we disturb objects or disrobe.

We've heard and read that this sub-micron dust can take hours to settle
out of the air. Every time we open the shop door, do we, in fact, really
need something on the order of a Haz-Mat suit and a Breathing Apparatus
for Shop and Turnery for Abatement of Residual Dust?

Granted, cutting out a large percentage of dust that's being produced is
more than likely A Good Thing (tm Martha). But we don't work in a sealed
environment with particulate showers at the doorway.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

When I started investigating dust collection because of my allergies,
one of the sources (I don't remember which one I was reading) made the
very valid point that the only effective method was to collect the dust
at the source, as has already been stated. I use a "Big Gulp" that I
pull up as close the work as I can get it whenever I am sanding or even
turning a particularly dusty piece of dry wood. It is hooked up to a 1
1/2 hp Delta dust collector. It is a joy to see the dust being sucked
down the hose from as much as a foot away from the Big Gulp.

Not to sound too gross, but when I forget to turn on the dust
collector, my nose is immediately filled with sawdust. When the dust
collector is on, it is as clear as a bell. Get a good dust collector,
you will seldom need the mask.

Earl

good point, that your lungs are much harder to replace than the shop
is to clean - but there is another effective technique (which I use) -
when doing something dusty, I use a powered helmet (an Airmate), and I
have my lathe by a large open door. so a good fraction of the dust
goes outside, helped by a pusher fan in an open vent. When done, a
little blowing from the air gun moves most of the rest of the fine
dust out the door.

Of course, for you "climactically challenged" folks, this approach is
less practical, but for me it's a lot easier than trying to collect
the dust at its source -

bill (www.wbnoble.com)

On Sun, 4 Dec 2005 21:54:04 -0500, "billh"
wrote:

Dust is actually a real health hazard. There are two things you can worry
about: the condition of your shop and the condition of your lungs. In
reality the shop doesn't matter that much other than kicking up settled dust
will likely deposit more in your lungs.
Catching the dust at the source is the best and I use a 4" DC hose connected
to a cardboard box positioned near the spinning workpiece. My DC has a 1
micron bag and anybody who really knows about dust hazards will tell you
that is not ideal. The nasty stuff for your lungs is in the 0.3 micron
range. That size will get inhaled, will not be trapped by your nose and will
not be exhaled like the much finer stuff. The 0.3 micron stuff tends to
lodge in the crevices of your lung tissue and stays there. This is bad.
While sanding is seen as a major source of dust since it is obviously
streaming off the workpiece, dust is also produced when cutting dry wood.
Spalted wood provides another problem - the fungi spores that are part of
the spalting process. Some of these can be very nasty and cause very serious
problems. I think I read where a famous Australian turner no longer turns
spalted wood because of the hazard.

So if you are real smart you will collect the dust with a good DC with the
best filter/bag you can get and you will also wear a respirator that
provides good dust protection. A HEPA filter is the best. If you have a long
way to go in your life you will pay even more attention to these measures.
billh

"Sniperborg" wrote in message
...

Hi
I was just wondering which route i should go down first for dust when
finishing. Either a full face mask with built in respirator or dust
extractor such as the camvac dust extractor.
I'm turning for a hobby and have a sealey sm900 lathe and a wet and dry
axminster grinder so far. I use paper masks and a broom for the shed
floor.
Your thoughts please
Mark


--
Sniperborg

Bill

www.wbnoble.com

to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com

"Earl" wrote in message
ups.com...
When I started investigating dust collection because of my allergies,
one of the sources (I don't remember which one I was reading) made the
very valid point that the only effective method was to collect the dust
at the source, as has already been stated. I use a "Big Gulp" that I
pull up as close the work as I can get it whenever I am sanding or even
turning a particularly dusty piece of dry wood. It is hooked up to a 1
1/2 hp Delta dust collector. It is a joy to see the dust being sucked
down the hose from as much as a foot away from the Big Gulp.

Not to sound too gross, but when I forget to turn on the dust
collector, my nose is immediately filled with sawdust. When the dust
collector is on, it is as clear as a bell. Get a good dust collector,
you will seldom need the mask.

This is one of those religious issues. Danger from wood appears to be from
the chemicals it contains or those associated with woodworking. The
original OSHA/EPA "study" was merely an extrapolation from inorganic dust
data, which produces certain types of recognizable lung damage which can
lead to cancer. Wood/fiber dust didn't produce these kinds, but somehow the
bureaucrats connected the dots to create an ogre anyway.

Nuisance masks deflect virtually all the airborne dust you'll encounter,
which is why your body's splendid cleanup system, where the air is made
turbulent by the hairs and nares so that particles of _any_ size can be
snagged by the mucous to be moved upward and outward by the ciliae, can't
find enough to soil your kleenex after the fact or the next morning.

If you're paranoid about your lungs, what you need to wear is a charcoal
mask, because it's the chemicals that count. Or, you can take Bill's
advice, where dilution is the solution to pollution.