Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"

In article ,
charlie b wrote:

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

Lots of folks use a 4" belt sander mounted so the belt is running up for
pretty much all their grinding. I use several things, at the moment the
fact that the 1x42 I picked up at the junk shoppe has a motor that
sounds like a shop vac (LOUD) and the belt jumps off from time to time
limit my use of that.

If you peruse the archives you'll discover the other reason (IMHO):
sharpening topics tend to be likely to dive off the deep end into
religious wars, rather than remaining reasonable discussions for long.
I'd be happy to be proved wrong for once on that observation (hint,
hint, folks).

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

One (1") inch belt sanders and other belt sanders can be used for sharpening
lathe tools. Belt sanders run cooler and don't overheat the tool edge like
a conventional grinding wheel can. Its also a snap to switch from a coarse
grit to a fine one.

But, to use a belt sander as you describe, with the tool "above the platen",
is going to put a slightly convex bevel on your tools. I think you will
find that a flat bevel or a concave bevel as you would get off of a grinding
wheel will allow the tool to perform (cut) better. If I were considering
using a belt sander for sharpening, I would sharpen "on the platen" so the
bevel would be flat.

Many people can sharpen well freehand. I can't. I'm a fan of the Wolverine
sharpening jig from Oneway. Its moderately expensive, but it performs
flawlessly and gives a perfect edge every time.

Barry



"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"

I use my 1 x 42 belt sander for almost all my sharpening -- lathe tools,
regular chisels, my wive's kitchen knives... everything. I use both
the soldid platen and the "loose" area above the platten, depending on
what type of grind I want. I did make a MUCH improved tool rest and use
everything from 100 grit to 400 grit... and the back of the belt to hone
the wire edge off.

Added a MDF honing disk to polish my tools --- and my waterstones,
diamonds stones, scary sharp sandpaper et all just sit in the drawer...

But you are right.. it is less well known... and I don't know why...

Steve

charlie b wrote:
Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"

charlie b wrote:

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?



I use one. Got some real nice belts from Lee Valley in the micron range.
Does a good job and I only go to the grinder when I have to. Don't know why
they're not mentioned much.

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"

=====Well to every newcomer to the group it would appear that these
things/procedures haven't been discussed before. In truth, they seem almost
cyclical as with almost every other topic in this newsgroup (and others).
Some newcomer comes along and broaches a topic that is new and of interest
to him/her and it is suggested they hie themselves to the archives and do a
search. Failing to find an answer there, they should come back to the rec
and ask. This will probably start a whole new cycle again with curmudgeons,
COCs, newbies, grumpers, and teachers all chiming in. This is good as it is
a refresher course as well as a chance to see if there are any nifty, new,
guaranteed, sharpening tools or a never-needs-sharpening chisels available
to buy!!

A one inch belt sander is my favorite for touching up almost all my edged
tools. especially using the alumina zirconia belts. Usually blue, but are
sometimes green or red. I almost always use the platten-backed portion of
the belt. Heavy duty shaping is done with the Wolverine unit on the
grinding wheels.

Leif

"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
...
But, to use a belt sander as you describe, with the tool "above the
platen",
is going to put a slightly convex bevel on your tools. I think you will
find that a flat bevel or a concave bevel as you would get off of a
grinding
wheel will allow the tool to perform (cut) better. If I were considering
using a belt sander for sharpening, I would sharpen "on the platen" so the
bevel would be flat.


Some folks deliberately grind convex "bevels" to give greater control over
the bite right at the tool. In close quarters, where the handle or the
shaft of the tool itself might be in the way, it's a good strategy.

I think it's been a number of years since they took the word "sharpener" out
of the description, but the old Delta used to be called a sander/sharpener.
In the end it comes down to personal comfort, because grit is grit wherever
it is, and it's pressing and holding that generates the heat.

I always sharpen my belly mower blades on the 12" disk sander, but I took it
off the tractor yesterday after trimming the paths for the last time.
Tune-up in the spring. As soon as the last of the cauliflower is out, I'll
hang the plow on him and do the garden ....

charlie b wrote:

Snip


So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"

Because it's TOO Easy. I have blocks cut at the different angles I use
and can set the table angle in a couple of seconds on my cheapie 1"
sander. Just remember to disconnect it from the dust collector while
sharpening.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Ask not for whom the bull toils.





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Leif,
So, for us newbies, just how do you peruse the archives?

TomNie

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"

=====Well to every newcomer to the group it would appear that these
things/procedures haven't been discussed before. In truth, they seem
almost cyclical as with almost every other topic in this newsgroup (and
others). Some newcomer comes along and broaches a topic that is new and of
interest to him/her and it is suggested they hie themselves to the
archives and do a search. Failing to find an answer there, they should
come back to the rec and ask. This will probably start a whole new cycle
again with curmudgeons, COCs, newbies, grumpers, and teachers all chiming
in. This is good as it is a refresher course as well as a chance to see
if there are any nifty, new, guaranteed, sharpening tools or a
never-needs-sharpening chisels available to buy!!

A one inch belt sander is my favorite for touching up almost all my edged
tools. especially using the alumina zirconia belts. Usually blue, but are
sometimes green or red. I almost always use the platten-backed portion of
the belt. Heavy duty shaping is done with the Wolverine unit on the
grinding wheels.

Leif

Tom: Go to: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.woodturning and all
of Life's questions will be answered!*G*

Leif
"Tom Nie" wrote in message
...
Leif,
So, for us newbies, just how do you peruse the archives?

TomNie

"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"

=====Well to every newcomer to the group it would appear that these
things/procedures haven't been discussed before. In truth, they seem
almost cyclical as with almost every other topic in this newsgroup (and
others). Some newcomer comes along and broaches a topic that is new and
of interest to him/her and it is suggested they hie themselves to the
archives and do a search. Failing to find an answer there, they should
come back to the rec and ask. This will probably start a whole new cycle
again with curmudgeons, COCs, newbies, grumpers, and teachers all chiming
in. This is good as it is a refresher course as well as a chance to see
if there are any nifty, new, guaranteed, sharpening tools or a
never-needs-sharpening chisels available to buy!!

A one inch belt sander is my favorite for touching up almost all my edged
tools. especially using the alumina zirconia belts. Usually blue, but
are sometimes green or red. I almost always use the platten-backed
portion of the belt. Heavy duty shaping is done with the Wolverine unit
on the grinding wheels.

Leif

The 1" belt is what I'm planning on changing over to for my sharpening - Lee
Valley carries a 1" x 42" leather belt for stropping, as well as a good
selection of other belts (and a 1" belt grinder that is going to go on an
existing motor that I have).
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...40&cat=1,43072

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...84&cat=1,43072

Regards,
Fred Bearman
Port Huron, MI

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"

charlie b wrote:

Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"
Been thinking that this is a good thing to try and I see that Harbor
Freight has a 1" belt sander for $29 from Central Machine and was
curious if anyone has any opinion on Central Machine.

Well the great answers to my "dumb question"
have filled my Learn Something New Everyday
quota for today and then some

- searchable google group archive
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.woodturning

- this group is more forgiving of newbies
so I didn't get yelled at for asking a question
that's been asked many times before. Over
in rec.woodworking, that often is not the
case. DAGS! (Do A Google Search) is often
a response to a newbie question like this.
Thanks folks.

- didn't realize using the unbacked/unsupported
belt could put a convex bevel on my edge.
THAT is definitely a No No on bench chisels
and plane irons Makes sense for most turning
tools as well - having to go closer to square
on to the axis of rotation seems like a catch
waiting to happen.

- need to get out Robin Lee's book on sharpening
and spend some time in the Turning Tools
chapter.

BTW - if you have a bunch of sharpening stuff
stashed throughout the shop, a sharpening
station cabinet might be worth building next.
(all one line so watch the line wrap)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...ngCenter1.html

Here it is - shellaced - lots and lots of shellac.
Did I mention that I like shellac?

Thanks for the enlightening responses

chariie b
ast.net/~charliebcz/SharpeningCenter/SharpeningCenter10.html

"Norvin (remove SPAM)" wrote in message
...
charlie b wrote:

Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s) Baldor two
speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a grinder to touch up or
sharpen curved profiles? A belt sander - above the flatten, where the
belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"
Been thinking that this is a good thing to try and I see that Harbor
Freight has a 1" belt sander for $29 from Central Machine and was
curious if anyone has any opinion on Central Machine.

=====I bought the CM one with an eight inch disk sander. Hardly ever use
the disk but love the belt sander. CM is not the finest machine
builder/importer, but it certainly has stood up just fine for me!

Leif

charlie b wrote:

- need to get out Robin Lee's book on sharpening
and spend some time in the Turning Tools
chapter.

It is quieter than rec.norm. The book, BTW isn't Robin's, it's his
Dad's, Leonard Lee.

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use: daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Well the great answers to my "dumb question"
have filled my Learn Something New Everyday
quota for today and then some

- searchable google group archive
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.woodturning

- this group is more forgiving of newbies
so I didn't get yelled at for asking a question
that's been asked many times before. Over
in rec.woodworking, that often is not the
case. DAGS! (Do A Google Search) is often
a response to a newbie question like this.
Thanks folks.

- didn't realize using the unbacked/unsupported
belt could put a convex bevel on my edge.
THAT is definitely a No No on bench chisels
and plane irons Makes sense for most turning
tools as well - having to go closer to square
on to the axis of rotation seems like a catch
waiting to happen.

- need to get out Robin Lee's book on sharpening
and spend some time in the Turning Tools
chapter.

BTW - if you have a bunch of sharpening stuff
stashed throughout the shop, a sharpening
station cabinet might be worth building next.
(all one line so watch the line wrap)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...ngCenter1.html

Here it is - shellaced - lots and lots of shellac.
Did I mention that I like shellac?

Thanks for the enlightening responses

chariie b
ast.net/~charliebcz/SharpeningCenter/SharpeningCenter10.html

=======A remarkable tour de force, Charlie! I suspect that you have
created yourself the finest looking sharpening center in the rec. of not
the world! I do have a couple of questions, though!! Isn't the grinder
located kinda low to the floor? Seems like you'd have a hard time sharpening
any turning tools above micro chisels? Would one squat in front of it?
Kneel, Genuflect? I don't see any mechanism for a swing-up system, so now am
wondering if you are planning on pulling the entire grinder shelf out (watch
your back!) and plunking it down on top surface of the cabinet that you have
just slathered with 32 coats of shellac?I certainly wouldn't have such a
cabinet in my shop -- perhaps pride of place in my living room or rec room
as an AV center! When I use my grinder, I get grit of various grits all
over my "sharpening center." I can vacuum it up for the most part, but some
sticks to the wood and when wiped off, leaves scratches. Perhaps I don't
understand the artist part, but I do believe form should follow function.
In the meantime, I remain in awe of your legerdemain in woodworking, but
somehow have a faint notion that you might want to seek some help in this
regard!*G*

Leif

charlie b wrote:

BTW - if you have a bunch of sharpening stuff
stashed throughout the shop, a sharpening
station cabinet might be worth building next.
(all one line so watch the line wrap)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...rpeningCenter1.
html

Here it is - shellaced - lots and lots of shellac.
Did I mention that I like shellac?



I don't know if I can live with the Shame! My 'sharpening station' is an
old cheapie drawing table - metal legs, bunged up top.

In fact, I'm not sure I've ever built anything that looked this good to go
In the House!

"Norvin (remove SPAM)" wrote:

charlie b wrote:

Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"
Been thinking that this is a good thing to try and I see that Harbor
Freight has a 1" belt sander for $29 from Central Machine and was
curious if anyone has any opinion on Central Machine.

If you know someone who has one of them, or can inspect one in person
your OK. Otherwise suspect.

Norvin (remove SPAM) wrote:

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"
Been thinking that this is a good thing to try and I see that Harbor
Freight has a 1" belt sander for $29 from Central Machine and was
curious if anyone has any opinion on Central Machine.

That's the one I have (but a different brand). Works great. I cut out a
corner of the table from the right of the belt back and to the left. It
has worked fine for several years. I have a larger 1" belt sander that
can be configured to sand inside a cutout, but it is hardly ever used.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

COMMAND: A suggestion made to a computer.





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Charlie you're amazing.
I agree with Leif.

You did all that with Photo Shop?? How'd you get the line drawings shaded?
Is that what you were saying Photo Shop could do? The drawings one place and
the shading another?

Man, these computers are above me. Trying to teach an old dog new tricks.

TomNie

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Well the great answers to my "dumb question"
have filled my Learn Something New Everyday
quota for today and then some

- searchable google group archive
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.woodturning

- this group is more forgiving of newbies
so I didn't get yelled at for asking a question
that's been asked many times before. Over
in rec.woodworking, that often is not the
case. DAGS! (Do A Google Search) is often
a response to a newbie question like this.
Thanks folks.

- didn't realize using the unbacked/unsupported
belt could put a convex bevel on my edge.
THAT is definitely a No No on bench chisels
and plane irons Makes sense for most turning
tools as well - having to go closer to square
on to the axis of rotation seems like a catch
waiting to happen.

- need to get out Robin Lee's book on sharpening
and spend some time in the Turning Tools
chapter.

BTW - if you have a bunch of sharpening stuff
stashed throughout the shop, a sharpening
station cabinet might be worth building next.
(all one line so watch the line wrap)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...ngCenter1.html

Here it is - shellaced - lots and lots of shellac.
Did I mention that I like shellac?

Thanks for the enlightening responses

chariie b
ast.net/~charliebcz/SharpeningCenter/SharpeningCenter10.html

I bought a HF 1" belt sander last year on sale for $29, also bought some
belts at HF. The HF belts kept flipping off, so I went to Lowes and bought
a couple of belts to try. The sander works fine with a better quality belt.

The pull out shelf in the sharpening station cabinet
just gets the grinder or Tormek out where it's
easier to get and put up on the cabinet top. But -
if the floor were cleaner, and with the proper
adjustable padding, sharpening while reclining
has a certain appeal.

As for going just a wee bit over the top with
projects - they're just shop furniture. What
better low risk way to try things. The top is
a piece of 3/4" cherry ply.remnant I had.
The grain begged for a finish to show off the
wood. Horizontal, flat surfaces are easy to
shellac, though I probably shouldn't have
tried french polishing this much area the
first time. If the finish gets scratched up
- I learned some about french polishing
and I can always do some sanding and put
another finish on it.

The choice of shellac was not a good one since
shellac doesn't like water and japanese
water stones ...

You should see the figure in the honey locust
top - of the mortising machine drawer unit.
Drilling the four holes needed to bolt the
mortiser to it was difficult. Though the
mortiser covers up most of the top, I know
what's underneath. I'll remember the
look of that wood and maybe someday see
when it should/could be used or a piece of
house furniture.

Madness is not necessarily a bad thing -
if channled into something literally
constructive. The sharpening center
does what it needs to do as do the other
things I've made so far.

Using PhotoShop to play with design
ideas requires having digital images
of stuff to use. A picture of a piece
of wood you want to use, a picture
of a piece you've making, some cutting
and pasting, maybe some rotatating,
a bit of scaling to look about the right
size, a litle trimming here and there.
Each part is on a separate layer, so
each can be moved around, tweeked
etc., independent of the other layers.
You can dodge areas to make highlights
and burn in shadows - with a "brush"
size of your choice. You can paint
in things that don't exist and draw
in details. A graphic tablet and pressure
sensitive pen are essential though.
Trying to draw with a mouse is
like trying to draw with a pencil
stuck in a potato.

It helps to have someone who knows
how to use PhotoShop show you
some of the features and some of
their uses. But there are on line
tutorials on Adobe's site and others
and several books on it - with CDs
that have mpeg turorials - with
sound even.

I've posted another example of
using PhotoShop to create varaitions
of a turning I did but am not
satisfied with the proportions.

When I start with a toothpick and
try to turn it into a spindle I'll
stop - honest.

charlie b

On Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:07:32 -0700, charlie b wrote:

Charlie.. I sharpen my tools on my wife's 1"x 42" belt grinder...
It was made to sharpen saw blades and knives and works well for me on lathe
chisels... (the only thing that she'll let me sharpen)

I use the backing plate and angled table for "real" sharpening, but do mostly
heavy honing, so that's free hand on the looser section of the belt above the
backing plate..
It works great for me, as no matter how hard I try not to be, I'm very heavy
handed on the grinding wheels and can't come up with as round or smooth edge as
on the belt.. YMMV

Preface: I'm sort of a sharpening nut. I've got a two wheel
grinder, a Tormek, diamond plates, Scary Sharp plate
glass, japanese water stones and slips, an old (as in 1930s)
Baldor two speed dental buffer, stiched wheels, hard felt
wheels, wooden whees, white diamond, tripoli, rouge and,
though, I had no intended use for it when I got it at a garage
sale, a 1" belt sander - with spare belts from 100
to 1000 grit.

Since most turning tools come with a ground profile
and some even ground close to sharp, why use a
grinder to touch up or sharpen curved profiles?
A belt sander - above the flatten, where the belt will
more or less conform to what it's rubbing on - seems
to make more sense. No special jigs/fixtures required.

Wouldn't recomend using a belt sander to fix a
dinged edge or to drastically change a profile but
it seems perfect for touching up a dull tool. Having
a range of grits to use also seems advantageous.

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

charlie b
asking yet another "dumb question"



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

So why so little mention of 1 inch belt sanders
for sharpening curved profile tools?

I've used them and they are sh*t. The vibrate like h*ll. Also, belt grinders
don't grind flat. They have a tendency to grind convex surfaces, and they are
prone to sniping. Just like a planer can snipe the leading and trailing edges,
so do belts, even if tightened.

Case in point. A pattern making shop I used to do business works in mahogany.
Lots of big woodworking machinery including a huge 30" x 8' pattern makers lathe
with compound tool carriage. I asked them about belt sanders and they said they
tried one and sold it. What they use to grind flat surfaces in wood is 24" and
30" disc sanders.

Nonetheless, I do sharpen with belt sanders, a 2" Grizzly knife makers machine.
Very nice, very smooth. I also have a Baldor 8" buffer, 6" grinder, and a Darex
tool point sharpener. I think you need a variety of grinders to do the job.
Dan

PS: Tool Gloat: That pattern shop had a "little" 2HP, 18" disc sander that they
didn't use much because it meant they had to stock another size of discs. They
GAVE it to me!