For my chess piece turning project, I am considering some smaller tools. I
made a trial piece yesterday, and felt that my 1/2" skew was too big. I am
looking at the Crown 1/4" skew for $28.99 from Woodcraft. They also have a
5 piece set for $39.99. Anyone have any experience with these? I THINK that
I really only need the skew, but the small gouges might be nice to have.
$40 for the set sounds like it is too good to be true.

Any input is welcome.

Thanks,
Brad Mularcik

Brad Mularcik wrote:
For my chess piece turning project, I am considering some smaller tools=
=2E I=20
made a trial piece yesterday, and felt that my 1/2" skew was too big. =
I am=20
looking at the Crown 1/4" skew for $28.99 from Woodcraft. They also ha=
ve a=20
5 piece set for $39.99. Anyone have any experience with these? I THINK=
that=20
I really only need the skew, but the small gouges might be nice to have=
=2E=20
$40 for the set sounds like it is too good to be true.
=20
Any input is welcome.
=20
Thanks,
Brad Mularcik=20
=20
=20

Or you can make them... :-)

Look at Darrell Feltmates site See Around the Woods link...
http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/l...tm#woodworkers

There may be some others there with interesting ideas.

I made some handles and tools. Got to make more -- couldn't find some of =

the stuff I made -- lets me turn very accurate tool handles for more=20
small tools for example. :-)



--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Brad:

It seems to me that this is a really good chance to make some of your
own tools.

You can buy a 1/4" drill blank and a 3/8" drill blank and make a 1/4"
round skew and a 3/8" round skew. Drill blanks are already hardened so
you only need to make and fit a handle and then grind the skew shape on
the end. Leave the rest of the tool round. Once you've used a round
skew in these smaller sizes you will not want to go back to manufactured
ones -- they do everything better. When you roll them they are
predictable. They don't vibrate as much as the standard shape so cut
better. And, your 1/4" drill blank will cost you about $1.50. You'll
have to buy an assortment of stuff to justify postage but for the $28.99
you could get about 10 tools.

If you want to make some fancier tools where you need to start with soft
tool steel, that is no problem either. You can buy 18" and 36" lengths
of O (Oh)-1 drill rod. Cut to length, grind or cut shape you want and
then harden and temper with a mapp gas torch, or, in a pinch, a propane
torch. There are plenty of instructions on the net for doing this. It
is easy to do and while the steel won't be as good as the commercial M2,
it is plenty good enough for small tools on small work or details on
larger work.

You can also make specialized tools from hex wrenches, screwdrivers,
square section metalworking bits (make a small beading and parting tool),...

The suppliers of this stuff -- any machine shop supply company, MSC,
ENCO, GRAINGER, KBC (One of KBC's locations is about a half mile from my
house!), etc.

Also you get the handles like you want them when you make the tools. I
use pretty big handles even on the small skews.

Bill



Brad Mularcik wrote:
For my chess piece turning project, I am considering some smaller tools. I
made a trial piece yesterday, and felt that my 1/2" skew was too big. I am
looking at the Crown 1/4" skew for $28.99 from Woodcraft. They also have a
5 piece set for $39.99. Anyone have any experience with these? I THINK that
I really only need the skew, but the small gouges might be nice to have.
$40 for the set sounds like it is too good to be true.

Any input is welcome.

Thanks,
Brad Mularcik

"Brad Mularcik" writes:
They also have a 5 piece set for $39.99. Anyone have any experience
with these?

My daughter has the micro set for making dollhouse-scale turnings.
It's a sweet set, and well worth the small price. Each tool has a
reversible steel, so you can put two different grinds on each tool and
effectively have ten tools. The steel is good and the handles are
just the right size.

However, for regulation size chess pieces they're probably too small.
I'd go with a 1/4" shallow gouge instead. Now, if you wanted to make
1/4 scale chess pieces, the'd be just right.

On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 01:06:55 GMT, "Brad Mularcik"
wrote:

For my chess piece turning project, I am considering some smaller tools. I
made a trial piece yesterday, and felt that my 1/2" skew was too big. I am
looking at the Crown 1/4" skew for $28.99 from Woodcraft. They also have a
5 piece set for $39.99. Anyone have any experience with these? I THINK that
I really only need the skew, but the small gouges might be nice to have.
$40 for the set sounds like it is too good to be true.

Any input is welcome.

Thanks,
Brad Mularcik

I must be looking at the wrong set.. it shows $112.99 for the 5 piece set..
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...0&FamilyID=395



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote in
:
snip
I must be looking at the wrong set.. it shows $112.99 for the 5 piece
set.. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...0&FamilyID=395


Did you note that you can buy a sharpening service for your lathe tools
from Woodcraft? Makes you think that there's perhaps a product manager
missing a clue regarding how these things are used.

Patriarch

I don't have much use for miniature tools.........even when turning
ornaments, finials and other smaller stuff. I find that standard size tools
are easier to sharpen, more stable and feel better in the hand. There may
be instances where miniature tools are required, but you can do a
respectable job in most instances with standard-sized ones. Tiny tools are
just hard to control and bounce around too much unless you hold them with a
death grip. Just my opinion.........

Barry


"Brad Mularcik" wrote in message
...
For my chess piece turning project, I am considering some smaller tools.
I
made a trial piece yesterday, and felt that my 1/2" skew was too big. I
am
looking at the Crown 1/4" skew for $28.99 from Woodcraft. They also have
a
5 piece set for $39.99. Anyone have any experience with these? I THINK
that
I really only need the skew, but the small gouges might be nice to have.
$40 for the set sounds like it is too good to be true.

Any input is welcome.

Thanks,
Brad Mularcik

"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
...
I don't have much use for miniature tools.........even when turning
ornaments, finials and other smaller stuff. I find that standard size
tools
are easier to sharpen, more stable and feel better in the hand. There may
be instances where miniature tools are required, but you can do a
respectable job in most instances with standard-sized ones. Tiny tools
are
just hard to control and bounce around too much unless you hold them with
a
death grip. Just my opinion.........

Tiny tools with large handles are easier. Make the handles, though if you
are careless about how far away your rest is with heftier tools, the small
ones will tell you about it.

I rather suspect that you're avoiding certain possibilities because of your
bad experience. Try again with stoned edges - no grinders on the small
stuff - and large handles. They will reach in and make cuts obtainable no
other way.

On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:36:05 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

mac davis wrote in
:
snip
I must be looking at the wrong set.. it shows $112.99 for the 5 piece
set.. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...0&FamilyID=395


Did you note that you can buy a sharpening service for your lathe tools
from Woodcraft? Makes you think that there's perhaps a product manager
missing a clue regarding how these things are used.

Patriarch

Well, they call it "honing"... It was kind of strange that they mentioned them
not being sharp in 2 places in one paragraph... maybe they're child proof?
*rofl*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 20:56:11 -0500, "Barry N. Turner"
wrote:

I don't have much use for miniature tools.........even when turning
ornaments, finials and other smaller stuff. I find that standard size tools
are easier to sharpen, more stable and feel better in the hand. There may
be instances where miniature tools are required, but you can do a
respectable job in most instances with standard-sized ones. Tiny tools are
just hard to control and bounce around too much unless you hold them with a
death grip. Just my opinion.........

Barry, if you're having problems with dancing steel on the mini tools,
there are two things that will definitely have a positive effect on
helping it to clear up, namely, faster spindle speed and a _much_
lighter cut.

For turning miniatures it is essential to develop a light touch, not
only to avoid chatter and other nasty side effects of tool vibration,
but also to have better control over the amount of wood you're
removing. Doesn't take much to turn a miniature bowl into a miniature
funnel!


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

George wrote:
"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message=20
...
=20
I don't have much use for miniature tools.........even when turning
ornaments, finials and other smaller stuff. I find that standard size =

tools
are easier to sharpen, more stable and feel better in the hand. There =
may
be instances where miniature tools are required, but you can do a
respectable job in most instances with standard-sized ones. Tiny tools=
=20
are
just hard to control and bounce around too much unless you hold them wi=
th=20
a
death grip. Just my opinion.........

=20
Tiny tools with large handles are easier. Make the handles, though if =
you=20
are careless about how far away your rest is with heftier tools, the sm=
all=20
ones will tell you about it.
=20

DAMHIKT


I rather suspect that you're avoiding certain possibilities because of =
your=20
bad experience. Try again with stoned edges - no grinders on the small=
=20
stuff - and large handles. =20

I just grind. Even the small tools -- so curious -- why just stoned edges=
?

They will reach in and make cuts obtainable no=20
other way.=20

That's why I made some small tools.



=20


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

"WillR" wrote in message
...

I just grind. Even the small tools -- so curious -- why just stoned edges?

They will reach in and make cuts obtainable no other way.

That's why I made some small tools.


Because a scratch which is nothing on the edge of a 3/8 wide tool is
proportionately larger and sometimes difficult to avoid on a 1/8. Also real
easy to destroy good geometry with a moment of carelessness.

George wrote:
"WillR" wrote in message=20
...
=20
I just grind. Even the small tools -- so curious -- why just stoned edg=
es?
=20
=20
They will reach in and make cuts obtainable no other way.
=20
=20
That's why I made some small tools.
=20
=20
Because a scratch which is nothing on the edge of a 3/8 wide tool is=20
proportionately larger and sometimes difficult to avoid on a 1/8. Also=
real=20
easy to destroy good geometry with a moment of carelessness.=20
=20
=20


I (re-)Learn something every day.

I did put the original edge on with a grinder -- but have used stones=20
since -- never really thought about it -- but you have pointed out the=20
obvious.



--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 17:28:40 -0400, WillR wrote:

George wrote:
"WillR" wrote in message
...

I just grind. Even the small tools -- so curious -- why just stoned edges?


They will reach in and make cuts obtainable no other way.


That's why I made some small tools.


Because a scratch which is nothing on the edge of a 3/8 wide tool is
proportionately larger and sometimes difficult to avoid on a 1/8. Also real
easy to destroy good geometry with a moment of carelessness.




I (re-)Learn something every day.

I did put the original edge on with a grinder -- but have used stones
since -- never really thought about it -- but you have pointed out the
obvious.

I guess that I sort of compromise both of your styles...
I did the original sharpening on the belt sander with a 400 belt and mostly use
diamond hones on them for touchup...
I'm way to heavy handed with a grinder... I'd end up with pointed stumps
sticking out of the handles.. *g*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 17:28:40 -0400, WillR =
wrote:
=20
=20
George wrote:

"WillR" wrote in message=20
...

I just grind. Even the small tools -- so curious -- why just stoned ed=
ges?



They will reach in and make cuts obtainable no other way.


That's why I made some small tools.


Because a scratch which is nothing on the edge of a 3/8 wide tool is=20
proportionately larger and sometimes difficult to avoid on a 1/8. Als=
o real=20
easy to destroy good geometry with a moment of carelessness.=20




I (re-)Learn something every day.

I did put the original edge on with a grinder -- but have used stones=20
since -- never really thought about it -- but you have pointed out the =

obvious.
=20
=20
I guess that I sort of compromise both of your styles...=20
I did the original sharpening on the belt sander with a 400 belt and mo=
stly use
diamond hones on them for touchup...=20
I'm way to heavy handed with a grinder... I'd end up with pointed stump=
s
sticking out of the handles.. *g*
=20
=20
mac
=20
Please remove splinters before emailing

The diamond hones are on my list for the next wood show. :-)



--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 13:57:44 -0400, WillR wrote:

mac davis wrote:
On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 17:28:40 -0400, WillR wrote:


George wrote:

"WillR" wrote in message
m...

I just grind. Even the small tools -- so curious -- why just stoned edges?



They will reach in and make cuts obtainable no other way.


That's why I made some small tools.


Because a scratch which is nothing on the edge of a 3/8 wide tool is
proportionately larger and sometimes difficult to avoid on a 1/8. Also real
easy to destroy good geometry with a moment of carelessness.




I (re-)Learn something every day.

I did put the original edge on with a grinder -- but have used stones
since -- never really thought about it -- but you have pointed out the
obvious.


I guess that I sort of compromise both of your styles...
I did the original sharpening on the belt sander with a 400 belt and mostly use
diamond hones on them for touchup...
I'm way to heavy handed with a grinder... I'd end up with pointed stumps
sticking out of the handles.. *g*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

The diamond hones are on my list for the next wood show. :-)

I'll get a real set now that I've tried the Harbor Freight set and like them..
lol

I have a 3 hone set but usually only use the fine one.. maybe because I sharpen
on the sander and not a grinder?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing