I have only been turning for about a year. Up to now i have always free
hand sanded my bowls and thought it was time to move on to power
sanding. I am a Fitter/Welder so i am not new to using power tools for
sanding/grinding etc, but i have to be honest here and say that i am
finding this very difficult.

I am using a variable speed power drill with a 2" Velcro topped mandrel
for most sanding on bowls around 6" to 8" diameter. What i find
difficult is when i address the mandrel to the bowl it is very hard to
keep steady & is kicked from the spinning bowl.

Is there a preferred area you should sand on the outside? & inside?
example - between 8 to 10 O clock'. What sort of lathe speed is best,
I'm assuming this has allot do do with bowl diameter.

I do realize its probably trial & error, but any tips would be much
appreciated.

Richard.

Some things to try...

Most folks sand in the 1:00 to 3:00 position. You need to experiment
with the drill rotating in both directions -- depending on your
technique one direction will work better than the other.

I use a drill with a 45% angled head -- the Milwaukee made by Sioux.
This allows me to hold it with my elbows against my body which gives
pretty good stability.

Run the lathe slowly -- this will also help. Let the sander do the work
rather than the lathe. Don't use too much pressure which just creates heat.

Bill

Richard wrote:
I have only been turning for about a year. Up to now i have always free
hand sanded my bowls and thought it was time to move on to power
sanding. I am a Fitter/Welder so i am not new to using power tools for
sanding/grinding etc, but i have to be honest here and say that i am
finding this very difficult.

I am using a variable speed power drill with a 2" Velcro topped mandrel
for most sanding on bowls around 6" to 8" diameter. What i find
difficult is when i address the mandrel to the bowl it is very hard to
keep steady & is kicked from the spinning bowl.

Is there a preferred area you should sand on the outside? & inside?
example - between 8 to 10 O clock'. What sort of lathe speed is best,
I'm assuming this has allot do do with bowl diameter.

I do realize its probably trial & error, but any tips would be much
appreciated.

Richard.

Another thing to keep in mind is that you aren't sanding with the whole pad
at one time. Place either the right or left edge of the sanding pad in
contact with the work, gently as Bill said. You will figure out how far
toward flat you can go but most power sanding pads used on bowls are never
worn out in the middle....... Also, a softish rubber pad under the sand
paper makes this procedure more forgiving and helps prevent the edge of the
sandpaper from digging in and making grooves altho that can happen if a
person is determined to use poor technique. DAMHIK
"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
...
Some things to try...

Most folks sand in the 1:00 to 3:00 position. You need to experiment with
the drill rotating in both directions -- depending on your technique one
direction will work better than the other.

I use a drill with a 45% angled head -- the Milwaukee made by Sioux. This
allows me to hold it with my elbows against my body which gives pretty
good stability.

Run the lathe slowly -- this will also help. Let the sander do the work
rather than the lathe. Don't use too much pressure which just creates
heat.

Bill

Richard wrote:
I have only been turning for about a year. Up to now i have always free
hand sanded my bowls and thought it was time to move on to power sanding.
I am a Fitter/Welder so i am not new to using power tools for
sanding/grinding etc, but i have to be honest here and say that i am
finding this very difficult.

I am using a variable speed power drill with a 2" Velcro topped mandrel
for most sanding on bowls around 6" to 8" diameter. What i find difficult
is when i address the mandrel to the bowl it is very hard to keep steady
& is kicked from the spinning bowl.

Is there a preferred area you should sand on the outside? & inside?
example - between 8 to 10 O clock'. What sort of lathe speed is best, I'm
assuming this has allot do do with bowl diameter.

I do realize its probably trial & error, but any tips would be much
appreciated.

Richard.

Richard,
When I power sand, I usually have the lathe on the slowest speed
possible, sometimes even turning the bowl by hand. I green turn to
finish thickness and allow the bowls to dry. This causes them to warp,
so I can't have the lathe speed up very high. The softer foam pads work
best for me as they conform better to the inside of the bowl. Also, the
disc isn't as grabby with the soft pads. It is also cheaper to replace
the pad, than it is to replace the mandril. When sanding the inside, I
like the lathe in reverse. When sanding the outside, I like the lathe
in foreward. I don't think that I ever sand with the disc flat on the
wood. In the inside of the bowl, it tends to be more on the edge, than
when sanding the outside of the bowl. This has more to do with it fits
the inside better that way. I also usually have the drill going counter
clock wise, especially on the inside.
robo hippy

"Jim Pugh" wrote in message
...
Another thing to keep in mind is that you aren't sanding with the whole
pad
at one time. Place either the right or left edge of the sanding pad in
contact with the work, gently as Bill said. You will figure out how far
toward flat you can go but most power sanding pads used on bowls are never
worn out in the middle.......

Why not concentrate on the middle of the pad when sanding the convex
outside, thus making use of what you normally throw away?

At worst it's the equivalent of hand sanding at the speed of the lathe. In
reality, it's faster.

Tougher to do without support for the sanding device, of course.

Richard, I have been using the selfsame method for more years than I
care to remember.

For what it is worth I always slow the lathe and keep the pad
immediately oppsite me at about 3 o'clock but at an angle so that the
pad literally takes up the slack. As others have said do not press too
hard and try not to let the whole pad come in contact or it WILL be
thrown out of the bowl.

Using this method bowls from just over 2 inches upwards can be sanded
safely and memorably for the right reasons!

Regards,
Peter Charles Fagg
Freshwater, Isle of Wight,
United Kingdom.
www.petersplatters.co.uk
Each can do but little!
But if each DID that little,
ALL would be done!

Peter Charles Fagg wrote:
Richard, I have been using the selfsame method for more years than I
care to remember.

For what it is worth I always slow the lathe and keep the pad
immediately oppsite me at about 3 o'clock but at an angle so that the
pad literally takes up the slack. As others have said do not press too
hard and try not to let the whole pad come in contact or it WILL be
thrown out of the bowl.

Using this method bowls from just over 2 inches upwards can be sanded
safely and memorably for the right reasons!

Regards,
Peter Charles Fagg
Freshwater, Isle of Wight,
United Kingdom.
www.petersplatters.co.uk
Each can do but little!
But if each DID that little,
ALL would be done!

I thank you all very much for your help. This is exactly what i needed
to know. Cheers.