Dundonald wrote:

The question I have is what is the best tool to do the job? I've
borrowed a circular saw but it seems a bit like a sledge hammer to
crack a nut.

You could use your jigsaw if you break the end off a blade so that at
full stroke it is just long enough to reach through the floorboard. Then
you should be able to jigsaw along the centre line of the joist without
actually cutting the joist (much!).

(your circular saw will also do the job since you can set the depth of
cut on that to the thickness of the boards)

--
Cheers,

John.

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I'm in the process of clearing loft space for storage. The old water
tank is being chopped up and removed. The existing floor boards are
sparadic, some hang over half way between joists. So I intend to cut
some of them back to the joists in a manner that I can then lay the
chipboard tongue and groove stuff.

I have so far cut the floor boards flush with the joists using my
jigsaw. I now need to cut the floor boards back to half way across the
joist leaving room to lay the new chipboards.

The question I have is what is the best tool to do the job? I've
borrowed a circular saw but it seems a bit like a sledge hammer to
crack a nut.

I am a DIY numpty and I'm not particularly experienced with what tools
might be available and for what use. Any help appreciated!

"Dundonald" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm in the process of clearing loft space for storage. The old water
tank is being chopped up and removed. The existing floor boards are
sparadic, some hang over half way between joists. So I intend to cut
some of them back to the joists in a manner that I can then lay the
chipboard tongue and groove stuff.

I have so far cut the floor boards flush with the joists using my
jigsaw. I now need to cut the floor boards back to half way across the
joist leaving room to lay the new chipboards.

It would be easier to screw a batten to the edge of the joist to support the
chipboard. It is virtually certain that a significant number of the
floorboard nails will be just where you want to cut, to the considerable
detriment of any tool you use to cut them.

Colin Bignell

nightjar nightjar@ wrote:

"Dundonald" wrote in message
ups.com...

I'm in the process of clearing loft space for storage. The old water
tank is being chopped up and removed. The existing floor boards are
sparadic, some hang over half way between joists. So I intend to cut
some of them back to the joists in a manner that I can then lay the
chipboard tongue and groove stuff.

I have so far cut the floor boards flush with the joists using my
jigsaw. I now need to cut the floor boards back to half way across the
joist leaving room to lay the new chipboards.


It would be easier to screw a batten to the edge of the joist to support the
chipboard. It is virtually certain that a significant number of the
floorboard nails will be just where you want to cut, to the considerable
detriment of any tool you use to cut them.

Yup, much better solution than my suggestion...

(obviously I am not thinking lateraly today!)



--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
You could use your jigsaw if you break the end off a blade so that at
full stroke it is just long enough to reach through the floorboard. Then
you should be able to jigsaw along the centre line of the joist without
actually cutting the joist (much!).

Yup - my preferred method. And you can start the cut in the middle of the
board with no pilot hole by slowly pivoting the jigsaw from vertical to
horizontal if you have a firm grip. Then turn it round to cut to the other
end.

(your circular saw will also do the job since you can set the depth of
cut on that to the thickness of the boards)

Trouble is a circular saw will damage adjoining boards.

--


Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 16:36:41 -0000, "nightjar"
strung together this:

It would be easier to screw a batten to the edge of the joist to support the
chipboard. It is virtually certain that a significant number of the
floorboard nails will be just where you want to cut, to the considerable
detriment of any tool you use to cut them.

Exactly what I would do, a lot easier and safer.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

Lurch wrote:
On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 16:36:41 -0000, "nightjar"
strung together this:

It would be easier to screw a batten to the edge of the joist to
support the
chipboard. It is virtually certain that a significant number of the
floorboard nails will be just where you want to cut, to the
considerable
detriment of any tool you use to cut them.

Exactly what I would do, a lot easier and safer.
Thanks for your reply. Why would this option be safer?

John Rumm wrote:
Dundonald wrote:

The question I have is what is the best tool to do the job? I've
borrowed a circular saw but it seems a bit like a sledge hammer to
crack a nut.

You could use your jigsaw if you break the end off a blade so that at

full stroke it is just long enough to reach through the floorboard.
Then
you should be able to jigsaw along the centre line of the joist
without
actually cutting the joist (much!).

Thanks for your reply. What method or technique is best to break the
end of the blade?

(your circular saw will also do the job since you can set the depth
of
cut on that to the thickness of the boards)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
You could use your jigsaw if you break the end off a blade so that
at
full stroke it is just long enough to reach through the floorboard.
Then
you should be able to jigsaw along the centre line of the joist
without
actually cutting the joist (much!).

Yup - my preferred method. And you can start the cut in the middle of
the
board with no pilot hole by slowly pivoting the jigsaw from vertical
to
horizontal if you have a firm grip. Then turn it round to cut to the
other
end.

(your circular saw will also do the job since you can set the depth
of
cut on that to the thickness of the boards)

Trouble is a circular saw will damage adjoining boards.
You're right that would have been one of my concerns.

nightjar wrote:
"Dundonald" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm in the process of clearing loft space for storage. The old
water
tank is being chopped up and removed. The existing floor boards
are
sparadic, some hang over half way between joists. So I intend to
cut
some of them back to the joists in a manner that I can then lay the
chipboard tongue and groove stuff.

I have so far cut the floor boards flush with the joists using my
jigsaw. I now need to cut the floor boards back to half way across
the
joist leaving room to lay the new chipboards.

It would be easier to screw a batten to the edge of the joist to
support the
chipboard. It is virtually certain that a significant number of the
floorboard nails will be just where you want to cut, to the
considerable
detriment of any tool you use to cut them.

Thanks Colin, this is a good suggestion. My only concern is if the
batten would be strong enough to take full bodyweight if one were to
stand and put full pressure on that end of the board.

I obviously have spare bits of floor board that I've cut so if I do
choose this method I could use pieces of them for the battens, though
they're not particularly wide.

Dundonald wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
Dundonald wrote:

The question I have is what is the best tool to do the job? I've
borrowed a circular saw but it seems a bit like a sledge hammer to
crack a nut.

You could use your jigsaw if you break the end off a blade so that at

full stroke it is just long enough to reach through the floorboard.
Then
you should be able to jigsaw along the centre line of the joist
without
actually cutting the joist (much!).

Thanks for your reply. What method or technique is best to break the
end of the blade?

If you own a dremel, then use a cut-off wheel to chop off the end of the
blade, and form the end into the proper shape WRT the last tooth.
(look at the end of the existing one)

Dundonald wrote:

Thanks Colin, this is a good suggestion. My only concern is if the
batten would be strong enough to take full bodyweight if one were to
stand and put full pressure on that end of the board.

Stick a decent guage of screw (i.e. a 10 or 12 guage) in, or for that
matter just use 4" nails, every foot or so, you will be fine. They are
under a shear load in that circumstance, and hence very strong.

--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Lurch wrote:
On 21 Jan 2005 12:42:17 -0800, "Dundonald"
strung together this:

Thanks for your reply. Why would this option be safer?

You don't have to use broken power tools.

Re; strength. I usually use a minimum of 2x2 if possible and screw it
into the existing joist, securely.

Thanks for your reply. I guess old floor board won't be any good then
as it's only about an inch deep at most.

On 21 Jan 2005 15:41:47 -0800, "Dundonald"
strung together this:

Thanks for your reply. I guess old floor board won't be any good then
as it's only about an inch deep at most.

Yep, a bit on the flimsy side really. It would work at a push but I'd
like to see at least a decent piece of 2x1 on there if it's just in a
loft, (as yours is, I forgot that when replying previously).
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

"Dundonald" wrote in message
ps.com...
....
Thanks Colin, this is a good suggestion. My only concern is if the
batten would be strong enough to take full bodyweight if one were to
stand and put full pressure on that end of the board.

That will primarily depend on how you fix it. Large diameter screws at about
six inch intervals would be more than adequate IMO. I never use nails in a
loft, as I have alway lived in places with lath and plaster ceilings, which
tend to dislike you hammering above them and express their dislike by
dropping into the room below. I do, however, recoomend an electric
screwdriver if you are doing a large area that way.

I obviously have spare bits of floor board that I've cut so if I do
choose this method I could use pieces of them for the battens, though
they're not particularly wide.

They only need to be half the width of a joist to give the same support as
you would get by trimming the floorboards back.

Colin Bignell

nightjar nightjar@ wrote:

That will primarily depend on how you fix it. Large diameter screws at about
six inch intervals would be more than adequate IMO. I never use nails in a
loft, as I have alway lived in places with lath and plaster ceilings, which
tend to dislike you hammering above them and express their dislike by
dropping into the room below. I do, however, recoomend an electric
screwdriver if you are doing a large area that way.

I was forgetting this was a loft.... so forget the nails! (I think even
a plasterboard ceiling gets a bit miffed when you bash thin joists to
much!). You may need to pre-drill the bit of wood that is going to get
screwed on as well to make sure you don't split it when you whack the
screws through.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/