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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi Andy,
Can't really offer any advice, but I have a similar problem with my heating system. I believe air is being sucked in either down the vent pipe, or through the radiator unions when the heating zone valve closes. I can hear sharp spurts of hissing in radiators when the heating is on. These spurts increase when pump overrun kicks in, and when the overrun stops. My system has pump overrun and is S-plan, with an automatic bypass valve to provide a pump overrun circuit. I originally had the bypass valve set quite high. This meant the pump had to work to open the valve. Putting a balloon on the vent pipe saw it blow up as the pump ramped up, and dissapear down the vent as the bypass opened (obviously held onto the balloon!). Setting the bypass to a low pressure improved this no end with hardly any deflection on the balloon. Still getting air in the system, and still trying to solve the problem. Best Regards, Ryan East. Andy Twose wrote: Hi, Having done my heating the wrong way with pumped return etc I think I now understand pump positioning, neutral point etc. I have re-worked the plumbing so that I have ... 1. Pumped flow 2. Vent pipe immediately on back of pump at outlet of boiler 3. Make up pipe connected via lazy U to same position as vent pipe 4. Header tank in loft approx 8' above upstairs rads, 14' or so above pump 5. Vent is 22 mm, make up is 15 mm both longish run Looks like this... Vent | Make Up | | | | | | | | | | ---------- | | | | | | -------- --------- | |-----------| Pump |------| Valve |----- To rads | | ^__| -------- | --------- | | | | | | --------- | | ----| Valve |----- To DHW | | --------- | Boiler | | | | | | | | |-------------- Returns | | ---------- I now get less air in the system than before (it was bad), but still find I am bleeding radiators. I can sometimes hear air in the system. To my mind, lowest pressure in system would be at connection point of vent and make up, and that this would be approx 14' water pressure (height of header to downstairs). All other points in system would be at pressures greater then this when pump is on. I believe (from watching an open bleed valve on an upstairs rad) that system goes briefly negative when heating valve closes. Any thoughts, observations, opinions appreciated. Andy |
#2
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You can also get air entering the system if there is a leak of water
from the system. The fresh water enters via the ball valve and it contains dissolved air which bubbles out inside the system when the water is heated. Robert |
#3
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... Hi Andy, Can't really offer any advice, but I have a similar problem with my heating system. I believe air is being sucked in either down the vent pipe, or through the radiator unions when the heating zone valve closes. I can hear sharp spurts of hissing in radiators when the heating is on. These spurts increase when pump overrun kicks in, and when the overrun stops. My system has pump overrun and is S-plan, with an automatic bypass valve to provide a pump overrun circuit. I originally had the bypass valve set quite high. This meant the pump had to work to open the valve. Putting a balloon on the vent pipe saw it blow up as the pump ramped up, and dissapear down the vent as the bypass opened (obviously held onto the balloon!). Setting the bypass to a low pressure improved this no end with hardly any deflection on the balloon. Still getting air in the system, and still trying to solve the problem. Best Regards, Ryan East. Andy Twose wrote: Hi, Having done my heating the wrong way with pumped return etc I think I now understand pump positioning, neutral point etc. I have re-worked the plumbing so that I have ... 1. Pumped flow 2. Vent pipe immediately on back of pump at outlet of boiler 3. Make up pipe connected via lazy U to same position as vent pipe 4. Header tank in loft approx 8' above upstairs rads, 14' or so above pump 5. Vent is 22 mm, make up is 15 mm both longish run Looks like this... Vent | Make Up | | | | | | | | | | ---------- | | | | | | -------- --------- | |-----------| Pump |------| Valve |----- To rads | | ^__| -------- | --------- | | | | | | --------- | | ----| Valve |----- To DHW | | --------- | Boiler | | | | | | | | |-------------- Returns | | ---------- I now get less air in the system than before (it was bad), but still find I am bleeding radiators. I can sometimes hear air in the system. To my mind, lowest pressure in system would be at connection point of vent and make up, and that this would be approx 14' water pressure (height of header to downstairs). All other points in system would be at pressures greater then this when pump is on. I believe (from watching an open bleed valve on an upstairs rad) that system goes briefly negative when heating valve closes. Any thoughts, observations, opinions appreciated. Andy Could be Hydrogen - not air - that's the conclusion of the BG engineer that checked my system when I grumbled about having to bleed rads regularly. Regards Pete www.thecanalshop.com |
#4
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![]() I believe (from watching an open bleed valve on an upstairs rad) that system goes briefly negative when heating valve closes. Any thoughts, observations, opinions appreciated. Have you watched the overflow into the header tank when the pump switches off? On mine I was getting a surge when the pump turned off. Momentum of the water and/or air in the rads being compressed by the pump then kicking back. Bleeding everything helped but didn't stop it. Lower speed on pump also helped (but then C drop was too much so it had to go back up). I raised the overflow pipe as far as possible. Now the water sloshes up the pipe but doesn't go over. Water constantly circulating into the feed tank will introduce air in the system of course. -- Malcolm Malcolm Reeves BSc CEng MIEE MIRSE, Full Circuit Ltd, Chippenham, UK , or ). Design Service for Analogue/Digital H/W & S/W Railway Signalling and Power electronics. More details plus freeware, Win95/98 DUN and Pspice tips, see: http://www.fullcircuit.com or http://www.fullcircuit.co.uk NEW - www.CharteredConsultant.co.uk - The Consultant A-List |
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