Hi Bert

As far as I understand it, the router is used with a worktop jig to
produce a masons mitre, not a 45 degree join. The 45 degree joins
don't tend to work as the walls usually aren't square. The alternative
is, as you say to but up one edge against another, and use the metal
joining strips you can buy to match the worktops. Easier to achieve,
but not so aesthetically pleasing and not as hygienic as food can get
trapped under the strips.

Smelly Kat

As far as I understand it, the router is used with a worktop jig to
produce a masons mitre, not a 45 degree join.

Thanks for that. I've no idea what a mason's mitre (or is it a Mason's
mitre?) is, but it's given me something to look up...

Bert
http://www.bertcoules.co.uk

It's like a Bishops's Mitre but made of stone. Worn during the ceremony
to initiate a new member into the lodge.

Obviously this is the origin of the hard hat. Thanks!

Bert
http://www.bertcoules.co.uk

On Fri, 7 Jan 2005 16:27:18 -0000, "Bert Coules"
wrote:

Thanks for that. I've no idea what a mason's mitre (or is it a Mason's
mitre?) is, but it's given me something to look up...

It's a "mason's mitre", not a Mason's or Freemason's mitre.

A worktop joint is a scribed joint (as is a mason's mitre), but it
isn't a mason's mitre. It's similar, yet almost the opposite of one!

Both are attempts to avoid the mitre. Masons avoid it because a
sloping joint in stonework is a weakness, as gravity acts to make the
joint slip (except of course in arches).

A worktop mitre is scribed so that the end of one piece extends into
the side of the other piece. In a mason's mitre the long sided piece
is formed as a slight L shape and theres a straight butt joint to the
end of the first piece. Traditionally the edges would often be
chamfered or fluted. This chamfer is cut as a dummy mitre in the
corner (entirely within the long piece) and it's usual that the
extension to its side is just deep enough to contain this chamfer and
the false mitre.


150 words. That's about a sixth as useful as a picture of one.

Andy,

Many thanks for the detailed description. I think I know what you mean, but
you're right: I'm off to find an illustration.

Bert
http://www.bertcoules.co.uk

On 7 Jan 2005 07:21:18 -0800, "Smellykat"
strung together this:

I've no idea where this came from, well done!

As far as I understand it, the router is used with a worktop jig to
produce a masons mitre, not a 45 degree join. The 45 degree joins
don't tend to work as the walls usually aren't square.

There is a trick of the trade to get them to fit perfectly in non
square corners.

When you cut one side of the join position the two worktops in the
corner and scribe a line onto the uncut piece. Rather than using the
pegs to line up the jig use the scribed line and the joint will fit
perfectly in any wonky corner.

I found this out after fitting a square joint in a very unsquare
corner against very unstraight walls.

The alternative
is, as you say to but up one edge against another, and use the metal
joining strips you can buy to match the worktops.

Noooooo.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

The alternative
is, as you say to butt up one edge against another, and use the metal
joining strips you can buy to match the worktops.

Noooooo.

I was thinking of using a square-edged worktop, which presumably removes
some of the aesthetic objection to a 90-degree butt joint, that the rounded
edging leaves an ugly gap which has to be covered by the joining strip.
With square edging it should be possible to make a neat 90-degree butt
joint, shouldn't it?

Bert
http://www.bertcoules.co.uk

On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 09:19:12 -0000, "Bert Coules"
strung together this:

I was thinking of using a square-edged worktop, which presumably removes
some of the aesthetic objection to a 90-degree butt joint, that the rounded
edging leaves an ugly gap which has to be covered by the joining strip.

If you use a router and jig you don't get a gap.

With square edging it should be possible to make a neat 90-degree butt
joint, shouldn't it?

Simple, you don't even need a jig, just a straight edge. Use the same
method as I mentioned above about unsquare corners and you will get a
perfect fit.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject