I'm thinking of fliping over my worktops in the kitchen and tiling over
what was the underside. Two questions:

1) is this crazy? Maybe the underside of a worktop (paper backing?) is
unsuitable for tiling?

2) if OK - what sort of tiles - all I can find on google are floor and
wall tiles. I'm thinking mainly about impact and heat fracture.


Thanks in advance,

Rob

"Rob Griffiths" wrote in message
...
I'm thinking of fliping over my worktops in the kitchen and tiling over
what was the underside. Two questions:

1) is this crazy? Maybe the underside of a worktop (paper backing?) is
unsuitable for tiling?

2) if OK - what sort of tiles - all I can find on google are floor and
wall tiles. I'm thinking mainly about impact and heat fracture.


Thanks in advance,

Rob


And chipping the front edge of the tiles. And making the underside of the
worktop water proof. And creating a solid enough surface to have the tiles
stick and not come off with expansion and contraction of the chipboard under
normal temperature changes in a kitchen.

Floor tiles would normally be OK for this type of job. But seal the
underside of the worktop with a dilute solution of PVA and water before
laying on the adhesive. You might also need silicone sealant as a grout for
the gaps, to stop water penetrating through. And use wooden boards to lay
hot pots on when they come off the hob or out of the oven. And having to
use chopping boards to cut things on and stop knifes scratching the glaze on
the tiles.

Even the tiled worktops from kitchen sales rooms have these restrictions on
them. So it's all part of having a tiled work surface in the kitchen.

In article ,
BigWallop wrote:
And chipping the front edge of the tiles.

A nice way round this is a hardwood edge - held in place with pretty
screws and varnished. Easy then to remove for freshening up every once in
a while.

And making the underside of
the worktop water proof. And creating a solid enough surface to have
the tiles stick and not come off with expansion and contraction of the
chipboard under normal temperature changes in a kitchen.

Mine are made of re-claimed blockboard, and I've not had any problems with
tiles coming loose. The tiles are 2x2" mosaics, and hard enough for floor
use. I used a mortar based adhesive with a fairly thick bed.

--
*El nino made me do it

Dave Plowman London SW
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"Rob Griffiths" wrote in message
...
I'm thinking of fliping over my worktops in the kitchen and tiling over
what was the underside. Two questions:

1) is this crazy? Maybe the underside of a worktop (paper backing?) is
unsuitable for tiling?

2) if OK - what sort of tiles - all I can find on google are floor and
wall tiles. I'm thinking mainly about impact and heat fracture.


Thanks in advance,

Rob

I did this a few years ago for the MIL. I used a glazed floor tile and edged
the fronts with oak. Stuck the oak on with evostick contact adhesive and
screwed at regular intervals. I used a plug cutter to cover over the screws.
Grouting should be carried out using epoxy grout, think you can buy this in
the big stores nowadays but they didn't stock it when I did it. Buy it in no
bigger than 1KG tubs. If you have never used this type of grout before, as I
hadn't, be very careful and very aware of what is happening to it. It lulls
you into a false sense, you think all is going well and then it starts to
turn and before you can put your cup of coffee down it rapidly starts to go
off. I suggest working as you go not to big an area at a time and finishing
your grout lines and wiping of the excess from tile top regularly. You need
everything to hand so your ready to start as soon as you have mixed up the
grout, it comes as a 2 part pack. I had also varnished the wood edge prior
to grouting but you may get away with just masking it off. Not a big fan of
the tiled worktops myself however that's what she wanted and she was very
pleased with it. But then my preferred choice of top is wood and that not
everyone's cup of tea either!
Hope this helps.
Simon

1) is this crazy? Maybe the underside of a worktop (paper backing?) is
unsuitable for tiling?

Personally, I'd throw the old chipboard out and use plywood, at least 18mm,
possibly thicker depending on span. Edge the front with wooden mouldings.
Also, ensure that you use a flexible adhesive and grout like Arduflex 7001
Timber System. Seal the tiles and grout with a suitable product, such as
Lithofin KF/MN Stainstop depending on tile type.

2) if OK - what sort of tiles - all I can find on google are floor and
wall tiles. I'm thinking mainly about impact and heat fracture.

I'd use floor tiles. Wall tiles could be a bit thin and more likely to crack
when something is dropped.

Christian.

simon beer wrote:


I did this a few years ago for the MIL. I used a glazed floor tile and edged
the fronts with oak. Stuck the oak on with evostick contact adhesive and
screwed at regular intervals. I used a plug cutter to cover over the screws.
Grouting should be carried out using epoxy grout, think you can buy this in
the big stores nowadays but they didn't stock it when I did it. Buy it in no
bigger than 1KG tubs. If you have never used this type of grout before, as I
hadn't, be very careful and very aware of what is happening to it. It lulls
you into a false sense, you think all is going well and then it starts to
turn and before you can put your cup of coffee down it rapidly starts to go
off. I suggest working as you go not to big an area at a time and finishing
your grout lines and wiping of the excess from tile top regularly. You need
everything to hand so your ready to start as soon as you have mixed up the
grout, it comes as a 2 part pack. I had also varnished the wood edge prior
to grouting but you may get away with just masking it off. Not a big fan of
the tiled worktops myself however that's what she wanted and she was very
pleased with it. But then my preferred choice of top is wood and that not
everyone's cup of tea either!


I'd agree with most of this. Floor tiles stand up to being used as
kitchen surfaces very well IME. For this grouting application I always
use grouting powder mixed with 1/3 enamel paint and 2/3 emulsion paint.
You need to leave this overnight to harden off, then cut back with a
golden fleece, the next day. I prefer 1" wbp plywood for the base, but I
find any bog standard tile cement thats slightly flexible works ok, as
the grout seals the surface extremely well. The lifespan of this system
is in excess of 25years. IME cement based adhesives are a bit rigid for
worktops which may get soaking wet occasionally as a result of water
leaks, leading to loose tiles. You need surface protection for the edge
of the knives, not the tiles IME. Cracked tiles can be a cosmetic
problem if something really heavy (cast iron) is dropped on them, so
keep a few as spares if you are going to be there for more than 5 years.

Regards
Capitol

On 25 Nov 2004, Rob Griffiths wrote

I'm thinking of fliping over my worktops in the kitchen and tiling
over what was the underside. Two questions:

1) is this crazy? Maybe the underside of a worktop (paper
backing?) is unsuitable for tiling?

2) if OK - what sort of tiles - all I can find on google are floor
and wall tiles. I'm thinking mainly about impact and heat
fracture.

I've owned 4 houses over the past 20 years. The first had tiled
worktops; the second didn't; and as we swore that we'd never again
*not* have tiled worktops, I've tiled out work surfaces in both of the
last two houses. I did precisely what you're thinking of for a base --
bought the cheapest post-formed bench top I could find; flipped it
over; and tiled on that. The tiles haven't shifted in over 8 years.

(Wouldn't be without tiled benchtops -- hot stuff straight out of the
oven on to the benchtop; no worries about unremovable stains; and if
one breaks -- which happened a total of once -- you just break it out
and replace.)

Our current kitchen is done with floor tiles, using standard flooring
grout -- I figured if it could take walking on, it could handle pots
and pans. There's only the two of us living here, so it stays pretty
clean -- the grout by the cooker gets irretrievably dirty after about 4
years' use, which means I've spent a total of two days' maintenance in
scraping that part out and regrouting.

--
Cheers,
Harvey

the grout by the cooker gets irretrievably dirty after about 4
years' use, which means I've spent a total of two days'
maintenance in scraping that part out and regrouting.

Do consider using a sealant, like Lithofin KF StainStop on the grout. It
really does massively reduce the amount of staining.

Christian.

On 26 Nov 2004, Christian McArdle wrote

the grout by the cooker gets irretrievably dirty after about 4
years' use, which means I've spent a total of two days'
maintenance in scraping that part out and regrouting.

Do consider using a sealant, like Lithofin KF StainStop on the
grout. It really does massively reduce the amount of staining.

Sounds good -- I'll certainly look into that.

--
Cheers,
Harvey

Do consider using a sealant, like Lithofin KF StainStop on the
grout. It really does massively reduce the amount of staining.

Sounds good -- I'll certainly look into that.

Make sure it is clean before you put it on though!

Christian.