I am putting up coving in my house. Anyone got any tips?

I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.

Peter

"Peter" wrote in message
...
I am putting up coving in my house. Anyone got any tips?

I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.

Peter

you will still benefit from using nails to hold it straight and up. but use
masonry nails.

Steve

I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.


Nails will hold - they don't need to penetrate very far into the wall.

Peter wrote:
I am putting up coving in my house. Anyone got any tips?

I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.

Peter

I use covemaster lightweight polystyrene/paper coving instead of plaster coving.

from floor level it's indistinguishable from plaster coving and because coving adhesive
has so much grab you don't need nails/pins to hold it in place.




RT

"R Taylor" wrote in message
...
Peter wrote:
I am putting up coving in my house. Anyone got any tips?

I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.

Peter

I use covemaster lightweight polystyrene/paper coving instead of plaster
coving.

from floor level it's indistinguishable from plaster coving and because
coving adhesive
has so much grab you don't need nails/pins to hold it in place.




RT

i replaced all the horrid poly coving in my house with plaster stuff. if
they have come up with a better finish on the poly stuff it should be
better... as long as you make sure the coving is straight and not following
the ceiling which is quite often undulating all over the place!


Steve

"Peter" wrote in message
...

I am putting up coving in my house. Anyone got any tips?

I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.




Coat wall & ceiling if new with a unibon/watere mix to seal it ... or
adhesive will dry too quick.





Measure down the correct depth form ceiling to wall ... at a few points and
join the dots with a line .

Get piece of coving cut as necessary ... coat back thickly with adhesive
(Board finsish platseer is much cheaper) get another person and a sweeping
brush ...

Lift coving into place, rock back and forth to sit well into situ, press
quite frimely to get it to stick, then while helper hold coving in place
with a broom, you drive in a couple of nails under the coving to support it.



Remember to mitre (splay) cut all joins on a run, sealing ends first with
unibond mix, and use the template to construct internal & external corners.



I bought a metal guide which is VERY good, you lay it on coving and simply
use a saw laying it flat against the guide, much better than a mitre box.



Once all coving in place, go over with a sponge and smooth out all joins etc
....

Then go along smoothing and filling out adhesive.



It's and easy job ... once you have dome 2 or 3 pieces you will get the
knack of it ... but you do need the extra pair of hands.



Rick

"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...


"Peter" wrote in message
...

I am putting up coving in my house. Anyone got any tips?

I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.


Coat wall & ceiling if new with a unibon/watere mix to seal it ... or
adhesive will dry too quick.

Measure down the correct depth form ceiling to wall ... at a few points
and
join the dots with a line .

On my second attempt) I cut a piece of mdf to the 'correct depth'
and used that as a rule to produce my line.

Get piece of coving cut as necessary ... coat back thickly with adhesive

This is the critical part!
Not all corners are right-angles.
I'd urge you to acquire a "Magic Mitre" - http://www.magicmitre.co.uk
which I bought from QVC (UK) as they include a saw.
{My only connection is as a satisified customer)

(Board finsish platseer is much cheaper) get another person and a
sweeping
brush ...

Lift coving into place, rock back and forth to sit well into situ, press
quite frimely to get it to stick, then while helper hold coving in place
with a broom, you drive in a couple of nails under the coving to support
it.

You'll need s secure 'step-up' to get to the height, the long lengths of
gunged coving are quite heavy and you've got to think-through
how you're going to hold it, step up and offer into position
Wish I'd have thought of the brush idea!

Remember to mitre (splay) cut all joins on a run, sealing ends first with

I believe the cut is referred to a a scarf-joint.

unibond mix, and use the template to construct internal & external
corners.



I bought a metal guide which is VERY good, you lay it on coving and simply
use a saw laying it flat against the guide, much better than a mitre box.

See comments about 'Magic Mitre' http://www.magicmitre.co.uk



Once all coving in place, go over with a sponge and smooth out all joins
etc
...

Then go along smoothing and filling out adhesive.



It's and easy job ... once you have dome 2 or 3 pieces you will get the
knack of it ... but you do need the extra pair of hands.



Rick

--

Brian

In article ,
Peter wrote:
I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.

Still works.

Offer up the coving and draw a line first, then use 1" panel pins at
about 1 foot intervals before putting up the coving - hold them with snipe
nosed pliers and tap in place, you needn't go into the blockwork. Easy to
make good afterwards, as they shouldn't knock chunks out of the plaster.

--
*Whatever kind of look you were going for, you missed.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
R Taylor wrote:
I use covemaster lightweight polystyrene/paper coving instead of plaster
coving.

from floor level it's indistinguishable from plaster coving and because
coving adhesive has so much grab you don't need nails/pins to hold it in
place.

You must have *very* high ceilings. ;-)

--
*Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

r.p.mcmurphy wrote:
"R Taylor" wrote in message
...
Peter wrote:
I am putting up coving in my house. Anyone got any tips?

I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.

Peter

I use covemaster lightweight polystyrene/paper coving instead of plaster
coving.

from floor level it's indistinguishable from plaster coving and because
coving adhesive
has so much grab you don't need nails/pins to hold it in place.




RT

i replaced all the horrid poly coving in my house with plaster stuff. if
they have come up with a better finish on the poly stuff it should be
better...

both the polystyrene (covemaster) and plaster (gyproc?) coving are
covered in paper so the only difference is the weight.




RT

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
R Taylor wrote:
I use covemaster lightweight polystyrene/paper coving instead of plaster
coving.

from floor level it's indistinguishable from plaster coving and because
coving adhesive has so much grab you don't need nails/pins to hold it in
place.

You must have *very* high ceilings. ;-)

you must have x-ray eyesight to see through paint.

clue:

I'm on about covemaster, not the cheapo expanded polystyrene rubbish.



RT

In article ,
R Taylor wrote:
both the polystyrene (covemaster) and plaster (gyproc?) coving are
covered in paper so the only difference is the weight.

Ah - didn't know that. I'll have a look next time. I was thinking of
polystyrene stuff that looked like ceiling tiles - all sort of rough.

Wonder if the fact it bends easily makes it look false in some
circumstances?

--
*How can I miss you if you won't go away?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Peter" wrote in message
...
I am putting up coving in my house. Anyone got any tips?

I've heard some people say put some nails under it to hold it until
the adhesive dries, but don't think this is an option in my case,
because the walls are block and plaster.

Peter

My Tip for fitting Coving.
If you are mixing your adhesive yourself.
Mix the plaster and put it into a corner of a supermarket carrier bag, snip
the corner and pipe like cake icing.
Use a new bag each time.
After a couple of goes you should have worked out exactly how much you need
for each run.
Baz

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
R Taylor wrote:
both the polystyrene (covemaster) and plaster (gyproc?) coving are
covered in paper so the only difference is the weight.

Ah - didn't know that. I'll have a look next time. I was thinking of
polystyrene stuff that looked like ceiling tiles - all sort of rough.

eek, no, covemaster.

Wonder if the fact it bends easily makes it look false in some
circumstances?

dunno but it's certainly cleaned up the knackered ceiling/wall interface
in almost every room of the time sagged edwardian terrace I'm currently
bashing a profit out of ;-)




RT

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ...
In article ,
R Taylor wrote:
both the polystyrene (covemaster) and plaster (gyproc?) coving are
covered in paper so the only difference is the weight.

Ah - didn't know that. I'll have a look next time. I was thinking of
polystyrene stuff that looked like ceiling tiles - all sort of rough.

Wonder if the fact it bends easily makes it look false in some
circumstances?

It's not compulsory to bend it as you put it up ;-)

I can't see why anyone would want to use plaster coving.

MBQ

In article , MBQ
wrote:


I can't see why anyone would want to use plaster coving.

Because some would prefer not to spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar?

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

In article ,
MBQ wrote:
Wonder if the fact it bends easily makes it look false in some
circumstances?

It's not compulsory to bend it as you put it up ;-)

No, but if it follows a slight bend it might look false. Just a thought.

I can't see why anyone would want to use plaster coving.

I'll certainly look at it since I'll need some shortly. Much cheaper than
plaster?

--
*Funny, I don't remember being absent minded.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
I can't see why anyone would want to use plaster coving.

Because some would prefer not to spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar?

If it really doesn't look different from Gyprock stuff, what's the harm?

--
*I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:


If it really doesn't look different from Gyprock stuff, what's the harm?

I have tried it and found it very difficult to make as good as the plaster
version. Perhaps it's just me, but I would be interested to read about how
you manage.

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics) wrote:
In article , Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:


If it really doesn't look different from Gyprock stuff, what's the harm?

I have tried it and found it very difficult to make as good as the plaster
version. Perhaps it's just me, but I would be interested to read about how
you manage.

cut it right, stick it up, job done




RT

Have you looked at the polyurethane coving that Wickes sell? Much
lighter and easier to fit using solvent-free no-nails - cuts nicley
with a hand or mitre saw and the joins can be finished with no nails
too.

It's not paper covered like the polystyrene stuff that someone
mentioned but once painted is indistinguishable from the plaster
version.

Not a case of spoiling the ship for a ha'porth of tar as it actually
works out marginally more expensive per metre.

It does flex a bit so will follow the ceiling to some extent but then
if you stick rigid plaster coving to a badly undulating ceiling,
you're going to end up with potentially unsightly looking filling
anyway.

HTH.