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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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"Jeff Allen" wrote in message ... I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane for this task? Is there much skill needed? Jeff Have you considered getting rising hinges and leaving the door the height it is? Andy. |
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Trimming Doors
I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the
house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane for this task? Is there much skill needed? Jeff ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
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Jeff Allen wrote:
I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane for this task? Is there much skill needed? No. You'll want to clamp the edges with scrap timber, as otherwise you may lose splinters off the edges. |
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"Ian Stirling" wrote in message ... Jeff Allen wrote: I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane for this task? Is there much skill needed? No. You'll want to clamp the edges with scrap timber, as otherwise you may lose splinters off the edges. Any watch out for the staples used to hold the wood to the MDF. It'll ruin a decent plane. |
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On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 19:52:21 +0000, Jeff Allen
wrote: I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane for this task? Is there much skill needed? Plane inwards from each corner to avoid splitting the rather weak edges of the door. Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square. -- Frank Erskine |
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Ian Stirling wrote:
Jeff Allen wrote: I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane for this task? Is there much skill needed? No. You'll want to clamp the edges with scrap timber, as otherwise you may lose splinters off the edges. Be careful that there is enough material left to trim, if it has been previously trimmed close to the limit, you may have to take material off the top instead, and move the hinges. Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh. |
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Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square. Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly accurate. |
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In article ,
says... Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square. Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly accurate. ..........and one frayed edge. Besides if the amount to be removed is 3mm or less it can be hard to control a circular saw -- Paul Mc Cann |
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stuart noble wrote:
Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square. Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly accurate. With two bits of scrap wood clamped to the sides of the door - unless a fine-toothed blade is used, and probably even then. |
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Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ... In article , says... Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square. Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly accurate. .........and one frayed edge. The frayed edge is neither here nor there if the cut is accurate and 90 degs to the face. If it tears up badly, then IME either the wood is damp, or the blade is blunt. Besides if the amount to be removed is 3mm or less it can be hard to control a circular saw The saw is not hard to control at all. The inner edge of the baseplate follows the jig so you cannot overcut, and the weight of the saw is always on the workpiece. Even a tapered cut 3mm down to zero is a doddle, really it is. The method has often been described on here but I wouldn't bother buying anything fancy to achieve it when you can just pin or clamp a batten. Once you know the distance from tooth edge to baseplate edge (and ideally cut youself a "spacer" of that size for future use), you can get pretty amazing accuracy. |
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In article ,
says... Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ... In article , says... Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square. Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly accurate. .........and one frayed edge. The frayed edge is neither here nor there if the cut is accurate and 90 degs to the face. If it tears up badly, then IME either the wood is damp, or the blade is blunt. or more likely, one is working on the average panel door with el cheapo ply and egg box inner core. Been there, done that. Besides if the amount to be removed is 3mm or less it can be hard to control a circular saw The saw is not hard to control at all. The inner edge of the baseplate follows the jig so you cannot overcut, and the weight of the saw is always on the workpiece. Even a tapered cut 3mm down to zero is a doddle, really it is. The method has often been described on here but I wouldn't bother buying anything fancy to achieve it when you can just pin or clamp a batten. Once you know the distance from tooth edge to baseplate edge (and ideally cut youself a "spacer" of that size for future use), you can get pretty amazing accuracy. Beg to differ. Despite the presence of the batten if the saw deviates at all it can be the devil to get it to start cutting to the line again when trying to remove a small amount. Possibly/probably the quality of the saw will have an effect i.e. B Q against Festo or similar -- Paul Mc Cann |
#12
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Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ... Beg to differ. Despite the presence of the batten if the saw deviates at all it can be the devil to get it to start cutting to the line again when trying to remove a small amount. Possibly/probably the quality of the saw will have an effect i.e. B Q against Festo or similar With the whole of the baseplate following the batten, it's difficult to imagine how a sharp blade would wander. By the time the blade starts cutting it's already been following the batten for 4" or so, and should be perfectly parallel to it. If it did wander, you'd simply start the cut again. The only problem I've had is that on some saws you have to lift the guard a fraction to get the cut started. |
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