"Jeff Allen" wrote in message
...
I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the
house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the
wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane
for this task? Is there much skill needed?

Jeff

Have you considered getting rising hinges and leaving the door the height it
is?

Andy.

Trimming Doors
 

I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the
house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the
wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane
for this task? Is there much skill needed?

Jeff


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Jeff Allen wrote:
I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the
house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the
wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane
for this task? Is there much skill needed?

No.
You'll want to clamp the edges with scrap timber, as otherwise you may
lose splinters off the edges.

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
Jeff Allen wrote:
I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the
house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the
wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane
for this task? Is there much skill needed?

No.
You'll want to clamp the edges with scrap timber, as otherwise you may
lose splinters off the edges.

Any watch out for the staples used to hold the wood to the MDF. It'll ruin a
decent plane.

On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 19:52:21 +0000, Jeff Allen
wrote:

I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the
house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the
wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane
for this task? Is there much skill needed?

Plane inwards from each corner to avoid splitting the rather weak
edges of the door.

Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both
faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square.

--
Frank Erskine

Ian Stirling wrote:

Jeff Allen wrote:
I need to trim a few mm off the bottom edge of some doors around the
house in order to stop them scraping on the carpet. They are of the
wooden hollow core variety. Do I just use an ordinary woodworking plane
for this task? Is there much skill needed?

No.
You'll want to clamp the edges with scrap timber, as otherwise you may
lose splinters off the edges.

Be careful that there is enough material left to trim, if it has
been previously trimmed close to the limit, you may have to take
material off the top instead, and move the hinges.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both
faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square.
Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly
accurate.

In article ,
says...

Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both
faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square.
Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly
accurate.



..........and one frayed edge.

Besides if the amount to be removed is 3mm or less it can be hard to
control a circular saw
--
Paul Mc Cann

stuart noble wrote:

Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both
faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square.
Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly
accurate.
With two bits of scrap wood clamped to the sides of the door - unless
a fine-toothed blade is used, and probably even then.

Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ...
In article ,
says...

Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both
faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square.
Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly
accurate.



.........and one frayed edge.

The frayed edge is neither here nor there if the cut is accurate and 90 degs
to the face. If it tears up badly, then IME either the wood is damp, or
the blade is blunt.

Besides if the amount to be removed is 3mm or less it can be hard to
control a circular saw

The saw is not hard to control at all. The inner edge of the baseplate
follows the jig so you cannot overcut, and the weight of the saw is always
on the workpiece. Even a tapered cut 3mm down to zero is a doddle, really it
is. The method has often been described on here but I wouldn't bother buying
anything fancy to achieve it when you can just pin or clamp a batten.
Once you know the distance from tooth edge to baseplate edge (and ideally
cut youself a "spacer" of that size for future use), you can get pretty
amazing accuracy.

In article ,
says...

Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ...
In article ,
says...

Remember to draw a line to which you wish to plane, preferably on both
faces of the door, to keep your cut nice and square.
Use a jig with a circular saw. No skill required, quick, and deadly
accurate.



.........and one frayed edge.

The frayed edge is neither here nor there if the cut is accurate and 90 degs
to the face. If it tears up badly, then IME either the wood is damp, or
the blade is blunt.

or more likely, one is working on the average panel door with el cheapo
ply and egg box inner core. Been there, done that.


Besides if the amount to be removed is 3mm or less it can be hard to
control a circular saw

The saw is not hard to control at all. The inner edge of the baseplate
follows the jig so you cannot overcut, and the weight of the saw is always
on the workpiece. Even a tapered cut 3mm down to zero is a doddle, really it
is. The method has often been described on here but I wouldn't bother buying
anything fancy to achieve it when you can just pin or clamp a batten.
Once you know the distance from tooth edge to baseplate edge (and ideally
cut youself a "spacer" of that size for future use), you can get pretty
amazing accuracy.



Beg to differ. Despite the presence of the batten if the saw deviates at
all it can be the devil to get it to start cutting to the line again
when trying to remove a small amount. Possibly/probably the quality of
the saw will have an effect i.e. B Q against Festo or similar
--
Paul Mc Cann

Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ...
Beg to differ. Despite the presence of the batten if the saw deviates at
all it can be the devil to get it to start cutting to the line again
when trying to remove a small amount. Possibly/probably the quality of
the saw will have an effect i.e. B Q against Festo or similar
With the whole of the baseplate following the batten, it's difficult to
imagine how a sharp blade would wander. By the time the blade starts cutting
it's already been following the batten for 4" or so, and should be perfectly
parallel to it. If it did wander, you'd simply start the cut again.
The only problem I've had is that on some saws you have to lift the guard a
fraction to get the cut started.