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cement based adhesive
Hi
I'm looking for some opinions on using cement based adhesive on gypsum plastered (skimmed) drywall? I'm doing my first paid tiling job (for a family member) she got all the material the supplier knew where the tile was to be fitted (plastered drywall) he supplied a cement based powdered adhesive It says on the bag "not to be used on gypsum based plaster" I asked him about this and he said its fine to use it he has sold tons of the stuff and never had a problem. My sister in law (the client) is happy enough to use it she says he should know what he is talking about, as it is his job. To make things worse there is a shower that is to be tiled and the substrate in the shower area is skimmed plasterboard (he says it is perfect for this as it is a flexible adhesive). I want to use ready mixed adhesive but am a bit unsure because the walls are studded walls not solid block walls and they will move a little. The supplier thinks I'm a donkey and my client thinks I'm over reacting. But it says on the bag it's not suitable. And I have researched it on the web and found something about some reaction between cement and gypsum. Should I just do the job with what he supplied and keep my opinions to myself? |
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In article ,
william wrote: I'm doing my first paid tiling job (for a family member) she got all the material the supplier knew where the tile was to be fitted (plastered drywall) he supplied a cement based powdered adhesive It says on the bag "not to be used on gypsum based plaster" I asked him about this and he said its fine to use it he has sold tons of the stuff and never had a problem. Hmm. It's normally much more expensive than the correct stuff - so perhaps that accounts for him being so keen to sell it? -- *OK, so what's the speed of dark? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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In message , william
writes Should I just do the job with what he supplied and keep my opinions to myself? I'm not an expert at tiling but I've found that if you first seal the surface with PVA then use the pre-mixed Unibond combined grout/adhesive from B&Q (and no doubt many other places) then the tiles will stick to *anything*. I've tiled on raw plaster, old tiles and wood without a single tile coming loose. Good trick is to make sure you leave a gap at corners and fill that with mastic so if your walls shift slightly it doesn't squeeze the tiles off. The odd thing is that when I buy tiles the tile shop always tries to sell me powder adhesives. They say that the pre-mixed stuff isn't any good as it "slumps". Never had any problems with it myself though. -- ICQ #17887309 * Save the net * Grok: http://spam.abuse.net http://www.cauce.org * nuke a spammer * Find: http://www.samspade.org http://www.netdemon.net * today * Kill: http://spamsites.org http://spews.org http://spamhaus.org |
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And I have researched it on the web and found something about some
reaction between cement and gypsum. Nothing is going to work well if the plaster/plasterboard gets wet. There are plenty of adhesives that will work on gypsum plaster, but if you get water in behind the grout, the tiles will ping off and the plaster will degrade. I'd probably use something Like Ardu-Flex 6001 or BAL White Star, although it would still be better to replace the plaster background with something better. If you don't replace the plasterboard with something waterproof, ensure you do the tiling job thoroughly. Use an adhesive suitable for swimming pools such as those mentioned above. Ensure complete coverage. This is not a time for dab and dot, you need 100% fill between tile and plaster. Remove an occasional tile during fitting to ensure that all ridges were compressed flat. Pay very careful attention to grouting. Use a flexible grout such as ArduFlex FL/FS to reduce the chances of cracking. Keep the grout lines narrow. Seal the grout using Lithofin StainStop (KF or MN, probably KF for the types likely to be used in a shower). This will also stop the grout going mouldy and will encourage water to bead and run off, rather than penetrate the grout. You may wish to apply to the tiles as well as the grout lines, depending on the level of glaze. Use silicone sealant for internal corners of walls. Christian. |
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"Christian McArdle" wrote in message et...
And I have researched it on the web and found something about some reaction between cement and gypsum. Nothing is going to work well if the plaster/plasterboard gets wet. There are plenty of adhesives that will work on gypsum plaster, but if you get water in behind the grout, the tiles will ping off and the plaster will degrade. I'd probably use something Like Ardu-Flex 6001 or BAL White Star, although it would still be better to replace the plaster background with something better. If you don't replace the plasterboard with something waterproof, ensure you do the tiling job thoroughly. Use an adhesive suitable for swimming pools such as those mentioned above. Ensure complete coverage. This is not a time for dab and dot, you need 100% fill between tile and plaster. Remove an occasional tile during fitting to ensure that all ridges were compressed flat. Pay very careful attention to grouting. Use a flexible grout such as ArduFlex FL/FS to reduce the chances of cracking. Keep the grout lines narrow. Seal the grout using Lithofin StainStop (KF or MN, probably KF for the types likely to be used in a shower). This will also stop the grout going mouldy and will encourage water to bead and run off, rather than penetrate the grout. You may wish to apply to the tiles as well as the grout lines, depending on the level of glaze. Use silicone sealant for internal corners of walls. Christian. I've been using white cement adhesive for kitchen and bathroom, and they just fall off again. In fact when I cemented onto pva'd wood they didnt stick at all, just lifted off when dry. Dont nkow what kind of adhesive to choose, but obviously need something that works. NT |
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I've been using white cement adhesive for kitchen and bathroom, and
they just fall off again. In fact when I cemented onto pva'd wood they didnt stick at all, just lifted off when dry. Dont nkow what kind of adhesive to choose, but obviously need something that works. Ardicol D20 claims to stick to stable timber boards such as plywood. Although intended for floor tiles, rather than wall, I'd be tempted to try ArduFlex 7001 Timber System with Ardion 51 primer, although it doesn't claim compatibility with walls... Christian. |
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In article ,
N. Thornton wrote: I've been using white cement adhesive for kitchen and bathroom, and they just fall off again. In fact when I cemented onto pva'd wood they didnt stick at all, just lifted off when dry. Dont nkow what kind of adhesive to choose, but obviously need something that works. I've used the white ready mixed stuff almost everywhere. Including a shower cubical made of plasterboard. And the outside loo. Never had a tile fall off yet. -- *Who are these kids and why are they calling me Mom? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#10
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"Christian McArdle" wrote in message et...
I've been using white cement adhesive for kitchen and bathroom, and they just fall off again. In fact when I cemented onto pva'd wood they didnt stick at all, just lifted off when dry. Dont nkow what kind of adhesive to choose, but obviously need something that works. did you tile kitchen and bathroom with adhesive from the same bag/batch of adhesive? if the bag is open and left around it seems to go off. when it sets it just turns to dust(like sand). on the bal website it says not to pva the surface of the plywood you are going to tile just seal/prime the edges and back. |
#11
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"Dave Plowman & christian McArdle replied...
thank you both, am going to investigate supplies. NT |
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