On 2021-05-17, John Rumm wrote:

On 17/05/2021 14:37, Adam Funk wrote:

I've just received a Grundfos condensate pump to use under the
basement dehumidifier.

The old pump (which seized up after about 6 years) had a sealed-up
cable that you could strip and use optionally to power something else
(with a cut-off if the tank gets full and fails to empty). But you
didn't have to do anything if you weren't going to use that cable.

The new one came with bare wires on both the incoming (no plug!) and

These things are normally "wired in" so no need for a plug in many
applications. (or at least that is enough plausible deniability to save
the maker forking out to fit one at all, let alone the right one for the
target market)

Yes, the leaflet says "The power supply cable has a Schuko plug or a
free cable end. The cable has a length of 2 metres."

http://net.grundfos.com/Appl/ccmsservices/public/literature/filedata/Grundfosliterature-5235397.pdf


outgoing cables. As a temporary measure, I stuck Wago blocks on the
wires and a Wago box on the cable. What are some good ways to cap the
cable off? I was thinking of heat-shrink insulation on each wire, then
a piece shrunk onto the end of the cable with some excess to fold over
and then cover with another layer.

Take both cables into an enclosure of some kind using approprote strain
relief glands. Then wire up the wires you need using whatever jointing

Oh, I've already put a 13 A plug on the input cable and started using
it!


method you fancy, and terminate unused wires in a terminal of some kind
(chock block, wago, insulated butt crimp etc - basically something that
stops the conductive bit coming into something it should not, and won't
fall off.

No need to be too anal about insulation since they are all enclosed in a
box that needs a tool to access, and protected from being pulled out of
the box by the entry gland.

OK, I was just looking for a non-bulky way to terminate the output
cable so I can coil it up and cable-tie it out of the way!

On 17/05/2021 16:29, Adam Funk wrote:

No need to be too anal about insulation since they are all enclosed in a
box that needs a tool to access, and protected from being pulled out of
the box by the entry gland.

OK, I was just looking for a non-bulky way to terminate the output
cable so I can coil it up and cable-tie it out of the way!

Either a small dedicated box or similar then, or some adhesive lined
heat shrink.

If you cut the individual wires such that they are slightly staggered.
Get a couple of bits of heatshrink, shrink the first in place such that
it overhangs the end of the cable. Then fold over the free end and stick
another bit over it and the cable to hold it against the side of the
cable in the folded position. That should fix it all in place, and not
leave any possibility of accidentally poking something conductive up the
open end of the heatshrink. The adhesive will stop it being accidentally
being pulled off.


--
Cheers,

John.

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On 17/05/2021 17:37, John Rumm wrote:
On 17/05/2021 16:29, Adam Funk wrote:

No need to be too anal about insulation since they are all enclosed in a
box that needs a tool to access, and protected from being pulled out of
the box by the entry gland.

OK, I was just looking for a non-bulky way to terminate the output
cable so I can coil it up and cable-tie it out of the way!

Either a small dedicated box or similar then, or some adhesive lined
heat shrink.

If you cut the individual wires such that they are slightly staggered.
Get a couple of bits of heatshrink, shrink the first in place such that
it overhangs the end of the cable. Then fold over the free end and stick
another bit over it and the cable to hold it against the side of the
cable in the folded position. That should fix it all in place, and not
leave any possibility of accidentally poking something conductive up the
open end of the heatshrink. The adhesive will stop it being accidentally
being pulled off.



A pro would just use insulation tape.....

--
Adam

On 2021-05-17, John Rumm wrote:

On 17/05/2021 16:29, Adam Funk wrote:

No need to be too anal about insulation since they are all enclosed in a
box that needs a tool to access, and protected from being pulled out of
the box by the entry gland.

OK, I was just looking for a non-bulky way to terminate the output
cable so I can coil it up and cable-tie it out of the way!

Either a small dedicated box or similar then, or some adhesive lined
heat shrink.

If you cut the individual wires such that they are slightly staggered.
Get a couple of bits of heatshrink, shrink the first in place such that
it overhangs the end of the cable. Then fold over the free end and stick
another bit over it and the cable to hold it against the side of the
cable in the folded position. That should fix it all in place, and not
leave any possibility of accidentally poking something conductive up the
open end of the heatshrink. The adhesive will stop it being accidentally
being pulled off.

Adrian was right --- the wires are not powered. They're just connected
internally unless the tank is really full (the blue and brown
insulation was a red herring). So I've just taped them up for
aesthetics and coiled that lead up beside the pump.